New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: dgalvin66 on November 19, 2016, 09:56:59 PM
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I just finished getting my first machine working and now on to the other one.
It was working but now no matter what I try I keep getting Door Open and either EEPROM ERROR or CMOS ERROR. I have tried 3 sets of optics, held the pointed at each other & made a bypass test cable. None of this works. I have looked at them with a camera and do not see anything. Until I can get passed the Optics issue I cannot clear the other errors.
When the optics stopped working I also lost the Top & Belly lights.
I did find a place local that I can get parts for them at very reasonable prices, so if I need to replace some parts so be it.
I could really use some help on this one.
Thanks in advance
David
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Do you have a known working MPU board you can put in to troubleshoot (to see if the error stays with the machine, or if it moves with the MPU board)?
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Stays with the machine. I took the MPU board from the other and tried it and got the same thing. But I expected to because it is synced to the mother board in the other machine. But because of the Door open issue I could not get past it. When I put the MPU board in the working machine everything was fine.
Like I said both the DOOR OPEN and the lights stopped working at the same time. Like something zapped/fried.
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BTW I can hold the test button for about 10 seconds and get the beep so the button is working. I just cannot close the door and turn the reset key because of the DOOR OPEN.
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I just checked the door optics with a multimeter. Here is what I see:
Cabinet side optic (Big Dome) 8.95 volts
Door side optic (small dome) 10.10 volts
Looking at them with my camera I see a purple glow from the Door side optic and nothing from the cabinet side optic.
I have the optics set the same way on the working machine, but did not check voltage or with camera.
David
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I'm not really familiar with PE+ machines but does it have a cash can or belly optics that could be a problem?
Dave
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Nope, there is no bill validator and there are no optics on the door of the stand. I cannot even get into the setup to verify that the drop door is set to NO.
David
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I found this in the repair manual. It shows that the cabinet optic should only be 5VDC but I am getting 10.10VDC. :banghead:
I am not very good with reading schematics and could really use the help of someone that understands all of this better. :arrowthruhead: :Scratch-Head:
From what I can tell from this page and looking at other info in the different manuals I am under the belief that the problem is a component on the Mother Board or even the board itself. :propeller:
I have not swapped the Mother Board between the 2 machines. I think I can run across town and get another mother board for not too much but is this is an easy fix for someone with beginner level solder skills I would be willing to give it a try at replacing parts. :Crazy:
Any thoughts? :hail:
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Okay maybe the problem is with the motherboard. Not that hard to change and find out. You have a working machine and a non. Could be just a coin or screw underneath. Check that board and look for a burnt spot or something causing a short. :yes:
Dave
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The only thing that may have failed on the motherboard is R180 and/or possibly burnt circuit board traces. Using the schematic you posted, check for continuity between the pins shown on the schematic. The straight across lines should read 0 ohms, the one across the resistor should be 180 ohms.
According to the schematic your voltages are in the ball park. The emitter on the door should read 5V the receiver on the cabinet should be ~ 8 - 9VDC. 10.1 is most likely an acceptable value. If you can see light from the emitter with a digital camera then it is probably good, but check R180 anyhow to see if it's value has changed.
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I just checked the door optics with a multimeter. Here is what I see:
Cabinet side optic (Big Dome) 8.95 volts
Door side optic (small dome) 10.10 volts
Looking at them with my camera I see a purple glow from the Door side optic and nothing from the cabinet side optic.
I have the optics set the same way on the working machine, but did not check voltage or with camera.
David
The door optic parts are not identical, one is a transmitter (an LED that emits infrared light) and the other optic part is a receiver. The receiver will not glow because it doesn't emit light. Keep in mind that the two optic parts must be aligned so that they are inline with one another when the door is shut and the locking slide bar is moved to the locked position. Otherwise the optic emitter's light will not activate the optic receiver.
I agree with Shaggy, it isn't that hard to swap the motherboard from the other working machine to see if the problem is due to a bad motherboard. But you can buy another motherboard to try if you want to. Swapping the motherboard will also let you look underneath it and behind it, in case something like a screw or coin is causing a problem.
The mpu (processor) board can also be the problem, it can also be swapped with the one from the good machine to prove yes or no. Inspect the door optic and cabinet optic wiring, make sure there are no damaged wires, sometimes they get pinched and don't appear to be broken but are, inside the wire insulation.
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As Rok said the optics are different. I'm sure they are like an S+ where the door is the emitter and the cabinet is the receiver. Only a glow from the door. As long as they're lined up you're going down the right road. Yes they could be bad, but some other parts are easily changed to get it narrowed down.
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Also, I read where you said you had swapped the optic parts a few times. Any chance you got the emitter and receiver optic parts installed backwards? I don't think it will work if the LED emitter is in the receiver position and vice versa. Compare the broken machine to the working one, carefully id each optic part and where it is mounted.
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Stays with the machine. I took the MPU board from the other and tried it and got the same thing. But I expected to because it is synced to the mother board in the other machine. But because of the Door open issue I could not get past it.
Right, I wasn't suggesting that the CMOS error would go away immediately by swapping boards, I wanted to see if you could get the Door Open message to go away with a different MPU board.
I'm sure they are like an S+ where the door is the emitter and the cabinet is the receiver. Only a glow from the door.
They are in fact the identical optics used in an S+. :yes:
Also, I read where you said you had swapped the optic parts a few times. Any chance you got the emitter and receiver optic parts installed backwards? I don't think it will work if the LED emitter is in the receiver position and vice versa. Compare the broken machine to the working one, carefully id each optic part and where it is mounted.
That's a very good point. :yes: The plugs for the emitter and receiver are identical (stupid design), so it's possible to install them on the wrong sides. Look carefully at the wire colors on your working machine, and ensure you have them installed the same in the problem machine.
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OK, I just spent the last maybe 2 hours going thru them.
I swapped the motherboards and the problem stayed with the machine. So I then swapped the MPU boards and the problem moved to the other machine.
I spent a lot of time with a magnify glass going over the board. What I found is:
1 - there was some solder under some of the diodes shorting them out. What a pain that was to get cleaned up.
2 - the Program chip had a pin bent under. I could not see any sign that it was bent even with the magnifying glass, did not see until I pulled it out. Set it aside and put a different chip in for now.
3 - The Self Test button is going bad, I need to replace it. For right now I just have to press it at an awkward angle and apply pressure.
It is working now :dancing_2: . I have everything put back in the correct machines. I need to pick up a new CC because the one I have is not working very well and has been abused by the previous owner. I am also going to pick up another 5cent hopper and have then they will both be 5 Cent machines.
My next thing to do will be to strip them down and get them both cleaned up really nice inside & out. Oh I also have to drill out the locks on the cabinets so I can open those doors.
:thank_you: so much for all the help you guys have given me so far.
I wonder what the next machines will be... I do need to get back to work on my MAME cabinet, maybe 2 of them. One for arcade and the other a MAME PE+.
David
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Glad you got it working, it is very handy to have a second machine readily available to help troubleshoot. Imagine if you were ordering parts and waiting for them to arrive, that's what many people have to deal with. Do you think the DOOR OPEN problem was due to the bent pin on the eprom?
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No, I think it was the solder crossing the diodes.