New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Smithkey on October 06, 2020, 07:57:28 PM
-
So I'm a little new to this but have acquired 3 machines with different problems but really enjoy troubleshooting them. My newest is an IGT S plus I believe. I replace the battery after a 12 code and everything seemed to work fine. Reset the 61 code then the 61-1 code. Coin mech doesn't seem to power up but I will tackle that next. After cleaning the slow and dirty bill validator I shoved a few $1 bills and and started playing. Handle will engage but won't spin the reels. Haven't looked into that much yet. After several spins I decided to cash out. It spit a few quarters out and hit the 3200 code. I sent into the #3 test mode to check hopper and kick out 10 coins but that thing never quits unless I stop the test. Sound like the coin sensor in the hopper is not detecting? Thank you all for any input
-
The hopper test is meant to be continuous - all good there.
The 3200 is a hopper error. Typically it means extra coin out. It could mean a jam but as per your hopper test - doesn't sound jammed. It could also be that your coins are too small for the hopper wheel and don't get lifted high enough to be counted by the coin optic, but as you pointed out you seem to be getting coins out just fine and not an excessive amount of coins.
The basics are that the hopper gets turned on during a pay out, and as coins are paid out they get lifted to the hopper knife (plastic/rubbery thing at the top of the hopper) and they roll past the coin optic and drop into the tray. When the optic counts the requisite number of coins the power to the hopper shuts off.
Removing your hopper - on the back of the hopper is something called a hopper brake. Its spring loaded and when the solenoid is released (per above power going off) the hopper brake retracts via vi the spring and stops the hopper cold in its tracks so extra coins are not spewed. I would suspect either your spring is broken, missing or stretched. I have replaced these with a spring from a bic pen cut short to size. Most of the vendors on our home page can probably sell you a proper spring.
-
I haven't worked with hoppers for awhile but I thought the hopper test was suppose to dispense 10 coins and stop? ... not run continuous.
-
3200 is coin out time out. The coin out optics are most probably dirty and not seeing the coins pass by. Look at the hopper right where the coins come out and clean the optics. It is a black piece the coins go under/thru before falling into the tray.
-
Thank you all! I will give it a shot this afternoon and report back.
-
So looking at my hopper the quarter does not pass through an optic but rolls under a roller that lifts up and then looks to lift an arm past the optics. Does that sound correct?
-
The Optic is a U shaped piece of plastic that sits on the top of the hopper. Basically the coin breaks the beam as it rolls by.
Post a pic - If your using a Cell Phone Camera sometimes the pics are too big to post, if you email them to yourself your given the option to reduce the size of the file. Then post those.
-
I think there is a couple of phillips screws that holds the roller and optics. You can remove the anti cheat roller/arm and set it aside. Re-install the optics only that Jay mentioned with just one screw.
-
I checked the spring, doesn’t seem weak, not broken and while doing the hopper test I can hit the white reset button next to power switch and hopper stops automatically. I’m leaning towards the optic? Taken it off several times and wiped it down and even left it loose and moved while hopper was spinning. Don’t seem to be seeing the coins pass. What would be the sure fire way to check If the optic switch is good?
-
I made this video about 9 years ago...might help ya....>>>
https://youtu.be/XH3N-prFZJ0
or this other video I?....>>>
https://youtu.be/GAkVj8olMHE
You gotta take the bowl off and clean all the crap outta it....needs to be serviced.
-
Thank you Jay! I will try it out tomorrow. I really appreciate the post.
-
So I made an informative phone call and learned that my hopper had the anti-theft device with the roller that the quarter lifted up and optics on the back. Removed it and moved optics to the front where coin would pass through and still don’t seem to be reading. When I power machine back up it tries to pay the remaining 7 credits but will only kick out 1-3 coins then 3200 error. I will be ordering a new optic and report back. Thanks for all the feed back so far!
-
Let's try to understand what causes a [3200] error code.
According to IGT's manual, it's a "Coin Jam In Hopper"
Something happens that causes the MPU to put out the [3200] message onto the display.
What the MPU senses is an overload of amps running to the hopper motor.
For example, if a coin gets caught between the wheel and the bowl in a weird way, the motor works harder to try to turn.
At the same, the hopper optics isn't seeing any objects passing thru for a fixed amount of time - that also triggers this [3200] code to be displayed.
However, usually when the optics aren't seeing any coins for awhile, that usually triggers a [3300] "Hopper Empty" code.
But since you're getting the [3200] error code, I strongly suspect the hopper needs to be serviced and cleaned.
Another thing that happens also is a tooth on a gear breaks off inside the hopper transmission and makes the motor want more amperage to turn.
That also triggers off the [3200] code.
That's a rare occasion but it does happen and it's a dirty job taking apart the transmission in front of the motor.
Let's hope the problem lies with just a flaky, loosely soldered wire on the optics and a newer set of optics fixes it!
There is one thing that makes me suspect the knife tho.
You said in your last post that "it tries to pay the remaining 7 credits but will only kick out 1-3 coins then 3200 error."
To me, it sounds like the coins are falling off of the top of the knife BEFORE kicking up the lever high enough that moves the arm between the hopper optics.
This could be a worn out, dirty knife ledge or a mis-adjusted knife or a bad anti-theft optic roller bevel mechanism....the roller is beveled to keep the top of the coin pulled against the pinwheel.
Of course, the only true way to know this for sure is to take the bowl off and turn the hopper wheel with some coins placed on the wheel nibs as in the video I posted....you need to see if the coins are going THROUGH the hopper optics correctly when you get the new one in.
-
Perfect! Thanks so much for taking the time to share so much information. It all makes sense. I have removed the bowl and all coins are traveling up the knife and through the optic. I have not examined closely the motor or transmission. I will give it all a good service and then replace the optic and see what happens. I will respond with my next findings. Thanks again everyone. Great group of people that are very willing to help people new to this.
-
If it's still shooting an error code after spitting out only a few coins, you may not have enough coins in the bowl.
These old hoppers work better with at least a cupful of coins because the nibs on the wheels are generally pretty well worn down and don't pick up the coins too good anymore.
Make sure you have plenty in there.
-
That’s a good point I’ll add a few more rolls.
Thanks!
-
If it's still shooting an error code after spitting out only a few coins, you may not have enough coins in the bowl.
Respectfully, that's not the case here. He might get a 3300 (hopper empty) if there weren't enough coins in the hopper, but not a 3200 error. More than likely the optics are bad and a new set will resolve the problem.
-
Going into the input tests, you can check the hopper optic for operation, call up test 14_1, now place an object through the "horseshoe" optics, watch the display as you do this, the display should change to a 14_0 when it sees the object block the optic. If no change, either a bad optic or a wire has come loose on the plug or one of the wires associated with the optic has come loose or placed on the wrong pin, or the plug in the cabinet could have a damaged or pushed in pin.
Hope this helps
Jim
-
So the test didn’t see a coin. I don’t think I’m getting power to it, just as my 24V coin comparitor. I traced power through the machine as per the schematic,(I’m not an electrician but I can get by) made it to the transformer behind cash box on the bottom right and when I test it only shows 7.8 v on the right leg and 1.2 volts on the left leg. I think I should have 8v from each leg? Does seem right? And as I inspected the transformer looks a little bulged like it was hot. What is everyone’s thoughts? I checked JP2 28b and 26b, no voltage from them either
-
I traced power through the machine as per the schematic,(I’m not an electrician but I can get by) made it to the transformer behind cash box on the bottom right and when I test it only shows 7.8 v on the right leg and 1.2 volts on the left leg.
You really need to show us these "legs" you're talking about.
Those voltages you're getting should not be in an S+.
Can you show us a photo of the pins you checked?
-
The fact that your machine accepted some dollar bills and played means all your voltages are good coming from the transformer. You have a hopper problem of some sort, there are only two voltages going into the hopper, 115 vac coming from the SSR to apply AC to the motor to turn the pinwheel, (which is working) and three wires associated with the optic, the green wire is chassis ground, the red wire should have +VB on it (8-10 volts D.C.) and the yellow wire is the coin out signal that goes to the motherboard via J10/Pin9 and ends up at J1/pin 13b on the cpu board. use your meter and monitor the red wire, should have 8-10 volts dc on it at all times, monitor the yellow wire, see what you have on it, then block the optic and see if it changes? if it does then more than likely your optic is good and you have a wiring problem.
as for the cc-16, you only get voltage to the unit when the door is closed and the machine is in the game play mode. the LED will come on. if you have a beely door that opens, you can undo the bracket and hold the cc-16 bracket in your hand, close the door and see what happens.
Hope this helps
Jim
-
Thank you Jim, I will give this a shot tonight and report back.
-
Great news! My hopper optic arrived today and it is working great. The CC light is on when the door is closed like Jim said but still won’t accept coins, maybe something in the settings, I will look more into that. One other issue is the lever will not spin the wheels and there are 2 wires hanging like someone has unplugged it. Are the terminal on the top, front bottom or back. Can’t feels much with my hands. It’s pretty tight behind the bill box. And again thanks to everyone for all of their help and guidance. I will continue to be a part of this forum in hopes of helping others like you all helped me!
Thanks, Dwane
-
Try turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise on the CC. You will need a tiny philips head. Also try putting in a different quarter in the cc.
-
Coin acceptance comes from the coin comparitor - as pointed out you need a sample coin in that. Secondly from the coin optic.Do you get credits when (with the door open) you press the tiny button on the coin in optic. If so the problem is likely the CC-16 coin comparitor.
Which SC-Mark has already provided some instruction on.
-
Check your power voltages with this
-
Yes, adjusted sensitivity, changed coins 3 times, I will get credits when I hit the white button and if I’m checking the correct wires there is not voltage while door is closed and hanging out of the door.
-
if I’m checking the correct wires there is not voltage while door is closed and hanging out of the door.
Wires not broken inside?
Take apart and check wiring /pins for continuity.
-
try this, shim out the rake on the back side of the cc-16, see what happens?? when the cc-16 compares the incoming coin to the sample it will pulse the coil to move the rake out of the way to allow the coin to be accepted and sent on to the optics . see what happens with the rake shimmed out, see where the coin goes and if any fault codes come up.
as for the wiring on the handle switch, you will have to remove the bill unit to connect these, its the easiest way to do it., should take about 45 minutes to do.
remove the transport, cash can, then undo the wiring harness, two screws from the back wall and one or two from the side wall, pull out the shelf assembly, remove the power supply from the left side, now remove the three nuts inside, two from underneath, and the screw at the reel shelf and the housing will come out. attach your wires to the switch, put everything back together.
the wiring is as follows, solid green wire goes on the common contact, the yellow/black wire goes on the normally open contact.
Hope this helps
Jim
-
Jim, so I shimmed the rake and it is now accepting the coins for the most part. Every 3rd or 4th coin will fall into the tray. Is this is the solenoid for the rake possibly bad?
-
I suspect the solenoid is bad. Common issue. A number of people wire tie the solenoid out of the way.
-
The only downfall to tying the rake open is then any coin will go to the hopper. So if someone reaches in their pocket and drops some nickels or dimes in a quarter machine, they will jam the hopper during payout.
-
Thank you very much for the advice!