New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: craig333 on April 10, 2021, 03:31:57 PM
-
Just got a IGT Model no B5031CFIW Price was right...FREE
What I need help with is to Identifying what it is..M,S,S-plus..... So I can order parts and look up the right information.
-
Post a pic, model # doesn't do much. One with the main door open will help too.
-
maybe they will post now..
-
sorry trying having to resize to post
-
Nice pics! That is an S+. Someone here should have whatever you need to get it up and running. What does it display when turned on? Any codes?
-
First off it is missing a coin to compare to in the coin comparitor, it also is not plugged in.
-
Thanks
Yes I took the coin out. The power plug is missing. I have ordered Harness CC-16 Coin Comparitor Harness IGT S Plus PE (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harness-CC-16-Coin-Comparitor-Harness-IGT-S-Plus-PE-Plus-092800044/121946492657) I need to plug it in, As the plug end will not plug in to the coin comparitor. That is 1st thing I need to fix. And have a code for no coins. Need to get a light for the top front. I can pick that up at work.
-
I have no codes right now, still waiting for the wiring to come in to fix the coin comparitor, So wanted to get the lights working, top wire I had to fix a broken wire, bought two LED lights put them in top and bottom. They both came on, but seem to be a bit bright for my liking. then I smelt like it was getting hot and burning, the lights were getting to hot, turned off and removed them, no wiring was burnt, I put in two fluorescent and top one would nt come on right with out moving it around almost to the point of removing it. and the bottom one will not come on at all.
Thinking I might need a new ballast? If so How would I find one of them for a IGT S plus?
-
It probably just needs a new starter, easy to find at the hardware store. Each of the 3 fluor tubes has it's own ballast and starter.
Beware - some of those LED tubes that do run with existing ballasts need to have the starter removed, and some are just plain cheap junk.
-
As a bit of troubleshooting - If you have one florescent working you can move the tube to the other positions to see if its working.
You can also move the starter. They are just a simple push in and twist to the other positions.
Home Depot carries these.
-
On the belly door, it looks like a piece of white paper installed in there?
That's a fire hazard!
Get the right piece of glass please!
-
On the belly door, it looks like a piece of white paper installed in there?
That's a fire hazard!
Get the right piece of glass please!
So if i'm reading this right the print should be printed on the glass? Where can I find that?
-
I will troubleshoot the lights and see what I come up with
-
Contact the vendors on our home page, and check Ebay - The belly glass between a 9", 16" and Round top are all the same, but obviously the top glass is different.
You can also get Generic glass that says 25C or even the name of a Casino. Slant tops have no belly glass so thats not an issue....
-
Just looking at the pictures someone must have cracked the the top 9" glass and remove the the decal form the glass or put it on a printer and made a copy of it, and that is what is displayed in the belly .
you coin comparitor appears to have something keeping the coin holding slot open. that part, with no coin installed should be resting to the far left.
I would worry about getting the lights working, I would concentrate on getting the machine working first!, then worry about the lights.
even with out that cable hooked up, you should be getting something on the displays to indicate that the processor is running or doing anything.
did you inspect the board, fuses, etc.
Jim
-
Just looking at the pictures someone must have cracked the the top 9" glass and remove the the decal form the glass or put it on a printer and made a copy of it, and that is what is displayed in the belly .
you coin comparitor appears to have something keeping the coin holding slot open. that part, with no coin installed should be resting to the far left.
I would worry about getting the lights working, I would concentrate on getting the machine working first!, then worry about the lights.
even with out that cable hooked up, you should be getting something on the displays to indicate that the processor is running or doing anything.
did you inspect the board, fuses, etc.
Jim
The belly has glass in it, with printed thick paper behind it.
Now the coin comparitor had a coin in it when I got it. I did not know what it was or did when I 1st got it. I pushed it over and took the coin out, and it will not slip back over, it is missing the wire for the coin comparitor "witch I have ordered, Ill have it Fri" Hoping when the coin comparitor gets power it will slid back,
I have not inspect the board. I do have some wire not hooked up. but the Bill thinging is missing to,, guess that is what the extra wire for for.
-
It probably just needs a new starter, easy to find at the hardware store. Each of the 3 fluor tubes has it's own ballast and starter.
Beware - some of those LED tubes that do run with existing ballasts need to have the starter removed, and some are just plain cheap junk.
I'm going to try two new starters, I have to look up what size I need as it has two different ones in it right now. I know I seen in one of the posts the ones I need, going to look thur the posts to find out what ones to get,
-
on the coin optics below the coin comparitor there is a very (very) small button that can be used to put test credits on the machine while the door is open.
-
Starters are FS-2. Coin holder in the CC is spring loaded on backside, the spring probably came off.
-
on the coin optics below the coin comparitor there is a very (very) small button that can be used to put test credits on the machine while the door is open.
Thanks I did find the small button, pressed it and did not give any credits
-
Starters are FS-2. Coin holder in the CC is spring loaded on backside, the spring probably came off.
Thanks. I did get it to slid back into place, Had to line up to tab with a slot, and it went back int place.
-
Two new starters and my lights are working. I have removed the printed paper. And will order the right glass for it.
-
the picture you provided only showed the machine from the reel glass down, what type of top box is on your machine? the glass pictured in your belly glass is actually a 9" award glass that would go up in the top box. Your double diamond belly glass only has the words on it no paytables.
since you turn this machine on and off, do you ever get any numbers in the displays that would indicate that the machine is actually running.
Jim
-
I do have one code 3100. shows 3100 and flash to 1 in a loop. i have read the FAQ for this and have taking out the hopper cleaned and all seems to be working. have done the coin pay out and pay out is right every time. have open and close the door many times trying to clear the code but it will not clear.
on a side note what is the candle light?
-
Full view
-
No top box at all!! Guess that explains why the payscale was in the belly glass. You have no candle lite, you have no candle, it goes on top of the top box you don't have.
-
that would indicate that the door optics are not working, check to see if the cash can door switch has been bypassed? show us some picture of the wires that are undone. the inside of the machine, especially where the bill unit was.
Jim
-
Some more pics
-
in picture 2509, are the two green wires that are on top of the power supply module connected together? pull the cc-16 out of its holder, see if the spring has come off , it puts tension on the slide assembly to hold the coin in place, also see if the rake on the solenoid has been shimmed out . also, with the cc-16 out, remove the cover (it just slides up) from the coin optics, want to see if Q-2 or Q-4 have been removed, pictures again would be helpful.
Jim
-
in picture 2509, are the two green wires that are on top of the power supply module connected together? pull the cc-16 out of its holder, see if the spring has come off , it puts tension on the slide assembly to hold the coin in place, also see if the rake on the solenoid has been shimmed out . also, with the cc-16 out, remove the cover (it just slides up) from the coin optics, want to see if Q-2 or Q-4 have been removed, pictures again would be helpful.
Jim
Yes the two green wires are connected together.
spring has tension.
did not see any shimsQ-2 and Q-4 seems to be in place.
-
Since you can get into the test mode, get to the input tests 10_1, scroll in that menu to get to 13_1, while in that test, close and latch the door, when latched, the 13 shouls start cycling from a 1 to a zero, if it stays on a 1 then the machine is not see the door as being closed. if it stay on 1 slowly raise the latch while watching the number, see if it statrs to cycle at a different point!
Jim
-
Well I made a rookie mistake and as I was taking the last pics and checking the CC. I did not turn the power off, I heard a click, I was pulling on the flip you told me to slid up. After I reread and seen to remove the CC then side it up. know I have no display, and not able to run any test mode, top light comes on, and the wheels engage, but not spin.
The click I hard may have been the door moving as I have hard it since then with the power off.
-
check the fuses, maybe you shorted something out?
Jim
-
I did have a blown fuse. The top one, i got the CC wire today and hooked it up and changed the fuse. now when I turn it on the wheels spin and 0 shows up in the coin played, after I close the door it spins one more time and displays 1 in the coin played.
1300 code is gone.
Should the grenn light on the CC be lite up? it is not. when I put coin in it just goes into the coin hooper,
-
The cc will not lite up when the door is open. Press the tiny white rectangle button on the coin in optics board just under the coin comparator, it should give you a credit. There is also a coin in optics test you can perform. The cc is excepting the coins but the optics is not seeing the coins if they just go to hopper without giving a credit played.
-
The cc will not lite up when the door is open. Press the tiny white rectangle button on the coin in optics board just under the coin comparator, it should give you a credit. There is also a coin in optics test you can perform. The cc is excepting the coins but the optics is not seeing the coins if they just go to hopper without giving a credit played.
Yes I can press the button to get two credits, and play with door open.
I will have to try the optics test.
thanks for the help. i'm getting closer to be able to play the slot,
I will have my new glass for it when I get over work tomorrow, Can't wait to see it installed,
-
A normal award (top glass) will not fit in the belly glass spot. What glass did you get?
The optics sensors may just need cleaning.
-
I did order the belly glass off ebay for it.
-
That is not a belly glass, it will not fit. That is the award glass.
That also it a double diamond glass, you want double diamond deluxe glass. You have a double diamond deluxe with no top box (where the award glass is supposed to be).
-
If you can only get two credits from optics button you need 2 coin glass not 3 coin.
Here's what your machine used to look like:
-
Or you get a different reel chip and it becomes a 3 coin or 5 coin game.
Just get the appropriate glass to match.
-
I rechecked and it is a 3 coin play. and I do get 3 credits when I push the button three times,
Are you saying it should have a top box and it is missing and the award glass will not fit in the bottom?
-
I did notice It was a double diamond glass and not for double diamond deluxe after i ordered it.
The pay out is the same,
-
Are you saying it should have a top box and it is missing and the award glass will not fit in the bottom?
Yes.
-
I did the Coin Optic Test
10-1 failed
11-1 passed
12-1 passed
I did clean optic, and made sure I had a clean coin in the CC before doing the test,
also I have no lite on the $25 or Insert Coin
-
Think I found out why it had a blown fuse and failed the oplic test
-
Did it pass after you changed the fuse ?
Normally all optics are on the same power source.
I think you have a bad coin optic or at least dirty.
The denomination light being off is no power. Likely related to the fuse.
Were the reels stiff or loose ?
-
I changed the fuse then did the test,
I did clean the coin opticreels are stiff when I turn on the power, free wheel without power,
I will check the fuses again
-
checked fuses again they are good. but not sure so about the lights for the 25c or Insert Coin lights.
Starting to see why it was free.
-
I think you have a bad coin optic or at least dirty.
Would $80 for a used one on ebay sound like a good deal to you?
-
With the power on Are the reels stiff ?
If not there is a large molex on the Center of the motherboard.
The motherboard and s the small fixed board that the MPU plugs into.
The molex is in the Center of the board. These pins get corroded and sometimes you see burn marks on the molex. Pull the plug off and use a white eraser to clean them up. Some people use a pen knife. Make sure the connector is on tight. When power is reapplied the reels should be stiff and the 25c light will be on.
-
with power on yes wheels are stiff.
wheel are working right. I can add credit by pushing the tiny button on the CC to get three credits and spin the wheels.
-
The lights are burnt out, I need to replace them
-
That is not a belly glass, it will not fit. That is the award glass.
That also it a double diamond glass, you want double diamond deluxe glass. You have a double diamond deluxe with no top box (where the award glass is supposed to be).
Yes you are right it don't fit.
You and jim both told me the top box was missing. I dont see how one would hook on top, or even if I can get to top box to add to it.
-
Typically both sides of the cabinet are covered in a solid laminate and the top box is not easily removable.
Generally speaking the top box contains a light for the award glass, and player tracking equipment is contained there, which is not usually functional for home use. Beyond that the candle Wiring snakes through the top box.
On the upright models the top boxes are 9†often referred to as chop tops. Not as chopped as yours (kidding), 16†which are nice as the glass has more artwork or round too which are usually the most desirable as they are as tall as the 16†and esthetically pleasing. The latter however do have special needs when you are mounting a slot tipper as its round vs flat.