New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT Fortune 1 Sircoma/Poker => Topic started by: junkman on October 21, 2014, 03:56:57 AM
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I got this the other day with a draw poker machine. This is a video slot that I would like to get working but I need to know what it is the numbers say its a sircoma 611 made in 1981 and its a silver jubilee I can't find any info. On the net about it or anything that looks like it. What I'm getting when I turn it on is a scrambled picture like a sync problem and the game is not playing blind I can't get the game to take a credit or anything the screen just rolls really fast from top right of the screen to the bottom left and when I shut the door the Hooper keeps running like its trying to pay out any help I would thank you so much I need a manual but I got to know what I have thanks
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It's a Fortune 1. Sircoma was the name of Si Redd's company prior to the name change to IGT. Fortune Coin (where the Fortune 1/2 names originate) was the name of the company before it was Sircoma.
So there's your answer, plus a little history! :rotfl: Now, you can go download the Fortune 1 manual from the download section (NLG FIle System) on the home page. :yes:
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Since junkman is not a contributing member he may not be able to download the manual. If not, he can request it here.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=23.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=23.0)
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Is there anyone out here that might have any of these game boards or that repair them I'm having issues with mine. I'm getting a scrabled picture and its rolling it looks to me like three screens rolling can't really make it out can anyone help with this issue. Thanks
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Post a picture.
I may have one.
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Roz is correct, that is a Fortune 1 (701) video. The board has several socket-ed eproms, alot of times this causes the problem you described, intermittent connections etc. the on board power supply usually goes out as well (CAPS) and regulator.
The only person that I know that still repairs these boards is Larry Weber. K-LAR electronics, Las Vegas .
Give him a call, he will try and help you.
Jim
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looks like a boat anchor to me
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Some people still like boat anchors.. I agree about trying to pull the EPROMs and try cleaning the legs with a pink eraser. I would also clean the boards edge connection.
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Post a picture.
I may have one.
Here's a picture of the board thanks for your help.
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Not much diff. than a old pac-man board etc. The chips do need to be re-seated and try--again. keep in mind this is old equip. so you must massage it like a fine Lady. Just a few thoughts. Also You are not going to find this new but tested working, possible but will cost a bit.--In my opinion.
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Is there anyone out here that might have any of these game boards or that repair them I'm having issues with mine. I'm getting a scrabled picture and its rolling it looks to me like three screens rolling can't really make it out can anyone help with this issue. Thanks
My Fortune One was "broke" when I bought it. Just above the CRT are the pots for various video adjustments. They might all be really dirty. I just turned mine left and right and was able to get the video back. After powering off, I used some good contact cleaner and the pictures been fine ever since. There's additional controls in the back/botton of the CRT for vert and horz hold. You might get away with just noting where they are positioned, and shoot them with contact cleaner (turn them back and forth), then power back on and see of you get stable video. Otherwise, you will need an extension cable to adjust those.
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Not much diff. than a old pac-man board etc. The chips do need to be re-seated and try--again. keep in mind this is old equip. so you must massage it like a fine Lady. Just a few thoughts. Also You are not going to find this new but tested working, possible but will cost a bit.--In my opinion.
Should I try replacing all the small caps?
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I would pull the six eproms with the labels and clean the re-seat them one at a time. Then make sure your edge connection is cleaned too. A pink eraser works great. If that doesn't fix your problems, then your other option is Larry Weber at K-Lar in Vegas. That number is 702-363-9998..
Gary
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The caps would be a last option. I forgot about those 3 color pots!! I have removed them and installed resistors in there places. I now have a clear blue screen and no more flickering of the colors.
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Not much diff. than a old pac-man board etc. The chips do need to be re-seated and try--again. keep in mind this is old equip. so you must massage it like a fine Lady. Just a few thoughts. Also You are not going to find this new but tested working, possible but will cost a bit.--In my opinion.
Should I try replacing all the small caps?
Replacing the larger caps could help but if you have a rolling screen I have had to replace the two 390 Ohm 1/2W resistors connected to the crystal and if that doesn't work there is a hex inverter chip near the crystal that runs the crystal circuit that may be bad.
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Not much diff. than a old pac-man board etc. The chips do need to be re-seated and try--again. keep in mind this is old equip. so you must massage it like a fine Lady. Just a few thoughts. Also You are not going to find this new but tested working, possible but will cost a bit.--In my opinion.
I have rubbed this woman until my fingers hurt and she keeps kicking me in the face I did break one of her legs on the eproms that is but I got that fixed what a pain in the a__ to remove and get them back in . But the only change is I still have a rolling screen with white bars and no color before i had color rolling screen with scrambled grafics I'd really like to get this game going
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Not much diff. than a old pac-man board etc. The chips do need to be re-seated and try--again. keep in mind this is old equip. so you must massage it like a fine Lady. Just a few thoughts. Also You are not going to find this new but tested working, possible but will cost a bit.--In my opinion.
Should I try replacing all the small caps?
Replacing the larger caps could help but if you have a rolling screen I have had to replace the two 390 Ohm 1/2W resistors connected to the crystal and if that doesn't work there is a hex inverter chip near the crystal that runs the crystal circuit that may be bad.
Thanks to all of you that are helping me with this issue. This is what I have done so far. Im pretty sure its a board issue I have replaced the monitor with a good one out of a working draw poker I have. Next I have cleaned and tested all cables all good. I have cleaned board ends and anything as far as chips eproms that could be removed from the board all cleaned. Before I cleaned the eproms and other chips I was getting a rolling picture with color grafics now I'm getting the same rolling picture with no color or grafics like four white bars rolling from top right hand corner to the bottom left corner very fast. I can slow it down by adjusting the monitor but that's about it. And when I shut the door the Hooper just keeps running. BAD BAUD had posted some things that I need to check the 390 ohm 1/2 w resister connected to the crystal. And the hex inverter chip near the crystal. Will some one please point these out on the picture so I can try to test. Thank you!
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Last resort send the I/O board and MPU board to Larry 702-363-9998
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Last resort send the I/O board and MPU board to Larry 702-363-9998
This board has made me pull my hair out! So she is packed up and ready to ship to Mr.Weber tomorrow i m hoping he can fix . I had a long talk with him today and he said he could get me going. I will let you know how it comes out. While its out I'm going to work on my RGB 1401B monitor does anyone have any tricks for this one. I have replaced the HOT and i have no neck glow and i have tested the round can looking caps. if you have any ideas let me know thanks
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Ahhh, the old RGB monitors. They are pretty basic but repairing them is a pain because finding parts is hit or miss.
I always start out with a complete cap job, Then check for a good +5 and +12 then make sure the B+ voltage is still there.
One thing not to miss is the low ohm resistor on the neck board which is the current limiting resistor for the tube filaments.
If that resistor is open you wont see any filaments lighting up.
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Oh ya, there is also a 1.2 Ohm resistor near that big cap that opens up and shuts down the entire monitor.
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I will check it too! Thanks
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Mr.Weber said he got the boards today. Wow took 7 days to get to him I should have went through the post office priority. I used UPS. he said he would let me know when they shipped out. I'm still working on the RGB monitor. :Scratch-Head:
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Got the MPU working, see attached picture.
It had 2 bad IC's and a bad IC socket.
Also replaced the caps and the FWB.
I/O board and back plane were fine.
badbaud
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Thanks so much. Looks good!
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Got the MPU working, see attached picture.
It had 2 bad IC's and a bad IC socket.
Also replaced the caps and the FWB.
I/O board and back plane were fine.
badbaud
badbaud can you tell me if the boards have been shipped back to me? I have not heard from Larry thanks.
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I watched him box them up last Friday but have not been back to the shop. Will go tomorrow and check.
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That would be great. Thank you for the hard work I really appreciate it.
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Got the boards in Friday and got them put in. Thanks to the guys at k-lar it is running great they are the best! Thank you. After I got it put back together and a little trouble with the door switch being a little dirty its working good but I have no sound is there suppose to be any. Or how can i make it have sound. Thanks
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does your machine have a sound board?
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Really don't know. I have a sound ribbon cable running from the top back board to the bottom board with red lights on it. I see no speaker.
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The speaker or it's grill holes should be right behind the fluorescent lamp at the top of the door.
The sound board should be mounted upside down under the lower left shelf that the monitor sits on.
The audio cable should plug into the sound board.
There is a tiny volume control on the sound board towards the front of the board.
The sound board should also have a white Molex connector which provides AC power and connections that go to the speaker.