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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Piney on August 27, 2023, 07:47:43 PM
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Bally 809
I surrender Third pass. Im out of switches to clean. Im out of wipers to clean. im out of plugs both beau and molex to check and clean
Ive cleaned and relubed
Switches cleaned with 2000 grit paper. Cleaned with alcohol. I did see a number have black residue that came off on qtip
Mechanical seems to work ok. pays on occasion
Coin in trips handle release
Will not increment coin in mechanism left side of top unit. Only first coin lit unless I manually trigger that sides steppers coil. resets stepper to 1 as expected after pull and new coin added
can someone point me to a specific switch or set to concentrate on ?
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Don't let it get to you, I have had some pretty tough issues ( :banghead: ) with my 4 Bally EM slot machines when I was resurrecting them from the depths of hell and I'm no expert. :cheers:
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there's many 809 machines. What number is on the top of the serial number plate?
pic of the entire front of the machine can help. If you can't post it due to size, email it to slotpics@cdyn.com and I'll downsize it.
generally, the 809's coining sequence is:
1] drop in first coin and the coin relay trips. When the coin switch tripwire goes up, the handle release relay trips
2] drop in the second+ coin and the odds relay powers. When the coin switch tripwire goes back up, a switch on the powered odds relay causes the odds step-up solenoid coil to power
3] when the odds step-up solenoid plunger pulls all the way in, an "end of stroke" switch on the step-up arm opens and the odds relay unpowers, which in turn unpowers the odds step-up solenoid coil and as the plunger pulls out of the coil the wiper rotate one rivet.
you primarily want to see if the odds relay is powering. It has orange wire 70 on a coil lug and the other lug has brown/red wire 61-1.
if you're familiar with the schematics, they can be found on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/
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Check all wires pertaining to the odds step up unit.
Wires can appear to be connected sometimes are broken at the solder joint.
Or hanging on by a strand.
Black tape and recent solder joints should be checked.
Weeks can be spent working on a machine, results being a bad connection under black tape and or crimp connector was the problem.
Also, contact blades can be broken within the wafer stack or missed the actual contact tip.
Jump the step up coil to see if it works.
It could be bad or the light gauge lead wire could be broken.
If the coil works, trace the wires back through the machine.
I think Wolf can give a better description of the process.
Possibly checking half the circuit at a time to help narrow down the problem.
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its an 809 Z7U
sn MT 15964
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typo?
it'd either be 809-ZZU or 809-7ZU ... tho I don't have record of a 809-ZZU.
there are 809-7ZU-5-10 and 809-7ZU-25 machines ... looks like they are the same except the glass. Triple bar machines made for the Mint casino.
closest schematic model-number-wise I have would be for a 809-7ZHH. The odds unit circuits on that are as decribed above, so you need to see whether the odds relay is powering.
since it probably wasn't clear, let's make it worse:
1] locate the odds relay. It's probably on the insert board in the top compartment and has orange and brown/red wires on the coil lugs
2] after a spin, play a coin to reset the game and release the handle
3] hold down the coin switch and see if the odds relay is powered.
'course, you need to see the odds relay. Options are:
- put a camera inside recording
- see if a mirror will let you see in the gap around the insert
- unscrew the wood lamp panel so if can be moved far enough to peek inside the head
- build an extension cable with purchased beau plugs and wires so you can connect the insert to the cabinet and leave the insert outside
- maybe unscrew the socket from the cabinet so you can pull the insert out far enough while it's still connected to look
- jumper just the pins you need between the plug and socket with the insert out (can get complicated)
- connect voltmeter probes to the coil wires (with jumper wires if necessary) and see of you get 50VAC when the coin switch tripwire is held down. If you do, listen for the odds relay clicking. Having 50V on the coil is good, but doesn't help if the coil is bad. You can measure the resistance of the coil to make sure it's not infinite.
you can also connect a long jumper to the brown/red wire on the odds relay coil and run out of the top compartment. After the first coin is played, briefly touch the end of the jumper to the yellow wire on the coin switch and see if the odds relay fires (listen for the click every time you touch the jumper to the yellow wire.
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Check all wires pertaining to the odds step up unit.
Wires can appear to be connected sometimes are broken at the solder joint.
Or hanging on by a strand.
Black tape and recent solder joints should be checked.
Weeks can be spent working on a machine, results being a bad connection under black tape and or crimp connector was the problem.
Also, contact blades can be broken within the wafer stack or missed the actual contact tip.
Jump the step up coil to see if it works.
It could be bad or the light gauge lead wire could be broken.
If the coil works, trace the wires back through the machine.
I think Wolf can give a better description of the process.
Possibly checking half the circuit at a time to help narrow down the problem.
:agreepost:
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Found a few moments to look into this again--
I scratched up a set of beau plugs, dug out the good ole soldering iron and got three cables.
No power appears at odds relay. Jumper to coin switch suggestion was the plan. I touched the coin switch yellow wires-- and they broke off. aghhhh....
Where might one get a replacement coin in switch ?
Check all wires pertaining to the odds step up unit.
Wires can appear to be connected sometimes are broken at the solder joint.
Or hanging on by a strand.
Black tape and recent solder joints should be checked.
Weeks can be spent working on a machine, results being a bad connection under black tape and or crimp connector was the problem.
Also, contact blades can be broken within the wafer stack or missed the actual contact tip.
Jump the step up coil to see if it works.
It could be bad or the light gauge lead wire could be broken.
If the coil works, trace the wires back through the machine.
I think Wolf can give a better description of the process.
Possibly checking half the circuit at a time to help narrow down the problem.
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this one should work:
https://www.amazon.com/DIYhz-Coin-Switch-Black-10307/dp/B07JM27GNJ (https://www.amazon.com/DIYhz-Coin-Switch-Black-10307/dp/B07JM27GNJ)
you bend the wireform yourself ... but try and get it right the first time as rebending it too much in one spot may break it. You can also transfer the wireform from your current switch. The goal is to make sure the part poking into the curved slot doesn't hit the edges of the slot when the wireforms goes down/up.
if you're lucky, you may be able to open your current switch and solder the lug back on, at least temporarily. The real hack is carve away some of the plastic so you can attach the yellow wires directly to the broken nub. You may be able to just solder the wires directly onto the nub if you clean it off and put some solder on it first.
the coin switch is normally connecting the yellow wire(s) to the orange/green wire, so you can temporarily jumper the end lugs together and when you want to "coin" the game unclip from the orange/green, touch the blue/yellow wire (center lug) and reattach to the orange/green.
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Regarding broken wire.
As Wolf mentioned you can carve away some of the housing to expose the solder joint.
I’ve done this, but didn’t try to attach the yellow directly on the small piece.
Add a short piece of solid or stranded yellow wire.
After the short lead is attached.
Best to clamp or reattach the switch then add a heat sink and secure it.
Proceed to solder as brief as necessary.