New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: newkid3 on February 09, 2024, 06:34:42 PM
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I have a IGT S Plus Haywire that I have got everything working on it and bill validator updated. I just realized the reel stop sound from the handle coil does not work. Also when I push bet one credit I can not pull the handle. The spin button does work.
I can get in there manually and pull the coil in and the handle pulls good and smooth.
Any ideas of what all could make this coil not work?
I did look at the coil and it looks like plugs are on coil. Those wires go down to a plug pretty close to it and it is plugged in.
Thanks
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Make sure the dips on the MPU 1-4 are ON, 5-8 OFF.
Dip #3 actually is for the sound generator.
A chip labeled "AY" something is needed in a socket on the MPU I believe...I could be wrong on that.
Also, go to Input Tests on the Flip cards 16_0.
The tests will activate the solenoid.
If not, disconnect plug up near solenoid, put a multimeter on the harness and activate [16-00 again to see if any juice is getting thru the harness.
You can download the diagnostic flipcards from here...>>>
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Sorry I should have said I did go to input test 16_0. When I hit the spin button it would change to 16_1. It would not let me pull the handle to test that switch. Would the dip switches on MPU keep it from activating the handle solenoid in test mode?
Thanks
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No...dip switch #3 being on just kicks the on solenoid to make a stopping noise when the reels stop.
Look...>>>
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Be sure the lower spring isn't broken on the solenoid. You can examine it better by removing it.
It can be done without removing the handle mech on a S Plus machine.
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RB, any tricks or info on getting the coil out of the S Plus machines?
Thanks
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If that spring is missing will it keep the coil from releasing to let handle pull down?
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Both springs are still on the coil. Can I unplug the coil harness and check for voltage there close to the coil? Should there be voltage there all of the time and the MPU sends a ground signal to activate it or is it the opposite and the MPU sends voltage to it when it is called for? What is the best way to test for voltage on the coil? Also what should the voltage be there? If I can get this one thing it will be 100%.
Thanks
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24vac, unplug and test using test 16, if voltage is present and the coil doesn't energize, then the rectifier on the coil is probably bad.
Jim
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Is all you have to do to take the handle coil off is take the three nuts off and it will come off?
I have the three nuts circled in red. It's not real easy to get back there and undo the connector to take a voltage reading.
So I think it would be easier to take the coil off and unplug the connectors from it to get a reading. That way if I have to do something with it the coil will already be off.
Thanks
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You might want to look at this sheet I've attached to this Reply.
It's right there in the NLG File System, if you look for it...>>>
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Stayouttadabunker, I had seen that file. From me looking at the setup in the machine in person it looks to me like the drawing is missing a bolt stud, 2 nuts and the lines to show where those two studs go to. That was why I asked the question. I have drawn in kinda the missing bolt stud the two nuts and the lines to where the studs go. I might be totally wrong but it was confusing to me. Like it might be to a different setup. I have never messed with a handke setup in a S Plus machine so I wanted to make sure before I messed something up.
Thanks
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Actually after studying the drawing closer and thinking that the bottom bolt stud can not go all the way thru there because then the latch part could not move back and forth. I realized the bottom stud is on the outer plate. All that is missing in the drawing is the two nuts and the lines to show where those 2 studs go. I am learning.
Thanks
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Oh...them drawings are never perfect....it's just to help you a little.
I've found mistakes with diagrams and schematics all the time.
I hate trying to work around corners...that whole cashbox and validator unit is in the way.
I just take out the bill validator unit, then remove the handle & mech to work on 'em.
Not hard to do if you've done it a milllion times.
It's basically remove 3 Philips screws, about 7 nuts, disconnect the vaildator, power supply harnesses, and it's outta there.
To take out the handle mech, undo the Allen key bolt, pull off the handle shaft, 3 nuts/bolts with the round plate, and IGT cover.
Then disconnect the lockout, and microswitch plugs.
However, that's a lotta work when Jim only asked you to check the voltage coming out of the lockout solenoid harness. :rotfl:
To do that, just un-clip the 2-pin harness from the solenoid plug, stick your probes onto those two pins, and run the 16-0 test.
If you have 24vac? (Page.40 of the Electronic Repair Manual) coming out, then you gotta get out that handle lockout solenoid, and get it functional. :cool_thumb_up:
When you did the [16-0] test, the solenoid didn't move?
You should hear it clicking at least - in attempts to move?
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Ok I finally was able to have the time to get the coil out and take a good reading with the machine in 16-0 test. The coil was very easy to remove. Take 3 nuts off and pull coil off. I get no voltage at the coil with the machine in 16-0 input test. Well 1.2 volts AC. Both the spin button and pulling the handle since there is no mechanism there to stop it makes the 0 change to 1. I did check all of the main fuses with a meter and they are good.
What do I need to check since I have no voltage at the coil?
Thanks
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Could it be a connection somewhere back to the CPU or the CPU itself? Thanks
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If the coil shorted out, that could of had harmful effects back to the MPU.
Check the harness for continuity and the coil for operation.
Pg.34 in the S+ Electronic Repair Manual is where you want to look...>>>
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substitute a known good board, if it still doesn't work, then probably the motherboard is bad. the cpu board puts a 24vac return voltage out to the coil, the 24vac hot runs through the motherboard and D-3 which is a Fuse, you can check the voltage there, on one side of D-3, if it is there and not on the other side, either the fuse is bad, or broken from the motherboard.
Hope this helps
Jim
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The only working S Plus board I have is in a slant top machine. Can I use that board? If I can do I just put the upright board chips in the slant top board or what? What chips would I have to transfer? I dont want to mess something up. How do you check the board for voltages since it has to be installed for it to get power?
Ok I just reread the post. So the fuse is at D-3 on the motherboard. So are you saying it is probably the Motherboard and not the CPU board.
Thanks
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Yes you can use that board but the tray is different.
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I do realize I will have to switch the board from the slant top tray to the upright tray.
Do I have to do anything to reset the machine to get into diagnostics to test the handle coil? I have not done a lot with the S Plus machines so I could really use some guidance. Would it be better to just switch the chips on the board? If so what chips do I have to switch.
I was thinking if it ends up being the CPU board I could maybe just switch the two boards since the slant top machine does not need the handle coil functionality.
I would really appreciate any direction someone could give me.
Thanks
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Keep things simple.
Swap the mpus, the GAME & REEL proms, and throw a coin in - to see if the handle works.
If it works, go follow these instructions to enable the DBV...>>>
http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm)
It's that simple!
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Ok I was able to get back at this machine. I was out of town on and off for awhile and have not been able to really work on it. I decided I was going to check the voltage at D3 before I swapped the boards and had to go through all that trouble since I dont have a set chip for S Plus machines.
I checked the voltage on both sides of D3 and it showed 12.5 volts AC. Where should I have been hooking for ground?
Anyway I was like I have voltage there at least. So I checked at the coil again and got no voltage. So then I turned the machine off and checked all of the connectors and wiring like was suggested. I had one plug that seemed like it was not on good. So I turned the machine back on and got into the 16-0 test. I checked the voltage at the coil spade connectors at the coil and I had 25 volts AC without the coil hooked up.
So I turned the machine off and just hooked the connectors to the coil and left it kinda hanging. Got back into 16-0 test but the coil did not pull in. I did push the spin button and pulled the handle to make sure it changed to 16-1 and that I was in the right test.
The way the coil is hooked up in the pic is the way it was when I unhooked it and the way I hooked it back up.
So the coil is bad I guess.
I ohmed out the coil and it was 16.7 ohms. Is there anything that can be done to fix this coil or do I have to replace it?
If I have to replace it are they available or do I have to find a good used one?
Thanks
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Is there anything that can be done to fix this coil or do I have to replace it?
Hi newkid3,
I believe Jim answered your question in his reply #8
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Ok something weird is going on here. I ordered a complete coil setup from Jim on here and it looks brand new. Well I installed it and still no coil functionality. So then I started doing some more testing. The two coil spade connectors measure 25.7v AC at all times. When it is not in
16-0 test mode and when it is in 16-0 test mode. I am taking the reading with one of my meter probes in each of the spade connectors with the coil not hooked up. 25.7v AC is on those two spade connectors all of the time.
But if I hook my old coil or this new coil up to those spade connectors neither one of them will even try to pull in.
I am sure there is not suppose to be 25v there all of the time.
Anyone have any idea what could be going on here?
Thanks
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Yes, you are correct, that is a brand new coil assembly, tested in a machine by me before I shipped it, you are not getting a ground return from the cpu or wiring or Q-16 . according to the schematic, that 24 volt return comes out J-1, pins 14a and 14b.
unhook both spade connectors on the coil, now measure each one at a time using pin 1 (green wire)on the six pin power connector as your return, one of them will have 24vac on it, mark that connector, and only put that one on the coil, leave the other off and nothing connected to that connector, now run a wire from the same green wire (pin 1 ) on the six pin connector and touch it to the empty connector, this should energize your coil.
Jim
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Ok I switched the boards and chips between my upright machine that was having this problem and my slant top machine. I got the upright Haywire machine that the handle coil would not work in all cleared and ready to play. The handle coil and reel sound from coil now works. So I can pull the handle now. I did not have to enable the bill validator because it already worked.
I am having an issue with getting my slat top machine back up and running. I can get it to 61_1 error but it will not do anything after that.
I will start a new topic on the issue with my slant top since it is a totally different issue.
Thanks for the help