New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Universal Reel/Video Games => Topic started by: PCDOG on February 05, 2024, 05:02:09 PM
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"Stars and Strips" In Port test 7 (manual advance) I can move to each test, but does not perform any of the tests. Verified EPROM code 99051 is a 1990 model My MPU board is 8116-A2 and sub board 81160SDS3 (B-D). Battery was replaced. All voltages on green dot power supply are OK.
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Hello PCDOG,
I'm assuming the machine will not play and you're in the troubleshooting process.
The power supply is good. Voltages read at the power supply plug CN-2 are correct (5vdc, 12vdc, 24vdc, 32vdc, 9.5vac, 100vac).
The MPU board "ALL CLEAR" button was held down during the power-up to clear all memory.
The MPU boots up and the LED displays are clear of any errors?
You're trying to perform the manual output tests through "Test Port No. 7". The main door is open and the door switch in the neutral (open) position.
The following method was used to toggle through the tests?
7) OUT-PORT TEST (MANUAL) "TEST PORT NO. 7"
This test port is same as the aforesaid "TEST
PORT NO. 5" but the test of each out-port
must be done manually. At first, select
"TEST PORT NO." by pressing the "TEST
SWITCH" seven times. Then press the "COIN
TEST SWITCH" to select the desired outport.
One press gives one step-up of the outport.
When you complete the selection, press
the "DOOR SWITCH". Then the selected outport
can be demonstrated only while the
"DOOR SWITCH" being pressed.
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Thanks for you reply.
I should have started with the the current problem that prompted me to performing port 7 manual test. The slot starts up normal. Insert 3 coins and accepted. Can not pull the handle lever.
Have performed all the tests outlined in your reply. Except pressing the "TEST SWITCH" seven times is different on my slot. I press the test switch 4 times and then can move to select a port test. Pressing it 5 times result in error 21 on display. Any idea on what to do next?
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Each time the RED "Service SW" button is pushed with the main door open a test credit is issued and can be played using the spin button or the pull handle. Since your machine is a 3 coin max per play the MPU allows up to 4 coins, if a fourth coin is entered it goes into a buffer and is used on the next play. If the RED "Service SW" is pushed a fifth time the MPU will error a "21' COIN JAM.
With that being said you should be able to push the RED "Service SW" one time for a credit and then pull the handle to play. Does the "Coin Accepted & Pull Handle " lamps come on with the one credit? If the handle is locked then one of the two handle photo eye switches is not being made which provides a handle position back to the MPU. If the photo eyes check good then the unlock solenoid coil is bad. They can be tested with TEST 5, TEST 6 (Automatic) and TEST 7 (Manual).
Regarding toggling through the tests, that's done using the GREEN "Test SW" button.
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No have not checked the 3 optical sensors for the handle lever. I understand how to get into the port test features. I can enter the manual output tests through "Test Port No. 7" by pressing the service switch 4 time (NOT 7 for my slot) the main door is open and the door switch in the neutral (open) position. As I said before the port test does not yields any results. WHY??
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Can you post a photo of the door handle mechanism on the inside of the cabinet?
So to recap you can press the GREEN "Test SW" button to advance to "Test Port No. 7" and the WINNER PAID METER displays a 7 as seen in the photo below. From here you should be able to push the RED "Service SW" button to advance to code 137, HANDLE UNLOCK COIL. Pushing the door push button switch in will activate the coil.
If you can not advance to code 137 in "Test Port No. 7" by pushing the RED "Service SW" button then I would verify that the button is functioning correctly.
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Strange behavior.
Make sure you are not in the middle of a game while trying to run tests, i.e. coins incerted and reels not yet spun.
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No I am not in a game. Reset MPU before starting port test. In port test 7 code 137 and the coil was activated. Also was able to pull the handle. Attached pictures of handle mechanism inside the machine. Testing the optical sensors would be the next step. How is this done?
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The photocells for the handle can be verified using "TEST PORT NO. 6".
When any switch is manually switched on or off its code number is indicated on the "WINNER PAID METER".
You're looking for code numbers:
205 HANDLE RETURN SWITCH (PHOTO SENSOR)
206 HANDLE UNLOCK SWITCH (PHOTO SENSOR)
If you pull the handle down about halfway the 205 photo sensor will be open for the test (see photo). Pull the handle down all the way and release it, this should open the 206 photo sensor, the unlock plunger looks like it's currently pulled in (your top photo).
Before performing the test look at all three photo eyes to make sure they're not blocked with dust or grease. Clean as needed.
Use a cardboard strip to slide in-out of the U of the photo sensor to block-unblock the eye.
Push the Yellow reset switch to exit the test.
Also when you shut the main door do you lock it? The door key has a photo eye on it as well that will prevent play. Take a piece of black tape and block the eye to "bypass" it.
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No I do not lock the door. As stated above there is not photo sensor for the door but a micro witch. All sensors are clean. Reset MPU and entered test port 6. The handle cannot be pulled down. Blocked each photo sensor one at a time and no code displayed. When I press the door micro switch it displayed code 100. Pressing the coin change switch shows no code.
What’s next??
Don’t know if this would helpful. This number 5016 etched several places in the cabinet. Including the power supply cover.
Here are the EPROM codes for my machine in order.
98933
90023
99051
90006
91200
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UNIMAN will need to verify the chipset information.
The micro switch for the door key is a normally open switch, it can be taped in so it sends a closed (locked) indication back to the MPU. Strange it popped up a code 100, that's the first reel photo sensor. Taping the micro switch in eliminates a possible problem.
Check the daughter board DIP Switch #7 position. The photo sensors appear to be the newer style with the black body's, can't tell from the photo, if so DIP switch #7 should be on. Here's a quote from UNIMAN's notes: "Games with machine chips 8933 and I believe anything higher, as there is no documentation that I've found for these chips, require dip switch #7 on the daughter board to be set ON for black handle optics and OFF for gray handle optics". You'll have to do a ram clear reset for the new DIP setting.
If moving the DIP switch #7 to the on position didn't activate the photo sensors then we'll have to verify power from the MPU to the eyes. Unplug one of the pull handle eyes and check for 5 volts DC at the plug, the pink to the black wires (pins 2 & 3). If there's power to the eyes then plug the eye back in and check the output on each plug pins 1 & 3, when the eye is NOT blocked there should be ~5vdc and 0 volts when blocked.
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Had already done all the photo sensor voltage test you outlined, except the dip switch 7 on daughter board. Followed your instructions to make sure I had the same results. All tests are OK. Cleared MPU and repeated test port 6. Nothing changed for photo sensors. But door micro switch got a code 206.
What would be the next step?
Thanks…
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Recap:
So all three pull handle photo eye outputs were checked from pins 1 to 3 of each plug while blocking and unblocking the eye and the output voltage went up and down from +5vdc to 0vdc?
The pull handle unlock solenoid functions when performing test port 7 - 137.
The pull handle photo eye switch cases were black not gray so the DIP switch #7 was moved from OFF to ON.
The door lock micro switch was closed (the lever was taped down)? Also 206 is the incorrect code for the micro switch, 206 is for the HANDLE UNLOCK SWITCH, code #003 is the door lock micro. There's something flakey going on with the MPU support program. Make sure the 8933 Eprom chip is seated all the way down in the socket and there's no bent pins, the socket appears to have damage at pins 1 & 2.
While to MPU board is pulled out it wouldn't hurt to clean the edge connectors with some electronics cleaner.
Something I've done in the past was pushing the pull handle solenoid plunger in and zip tying. Doing so will permit use of the handle with the main door closed. The door can be closed, coins entered and the handle pulled to play. Worth a try...
When you close the door (now with the key switch taped) are there any error codes indicated in the WINNER PAID METER? Does the "Insert Coin" lamp come on?
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Let us start over. Please be patient.
First, can you post a pic of the inside of the door. Want to see coin comparitor and optics below.
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My Response: Reply #12 on: Yesterday at 06:57:43 PM
1.So all three pull handle photo eye outputs were checked from pins 1 to 3 of each plug while blocking and unblocking the eye and the output voltage went up and down from +5vdc to 0vdc?
1. Yes all CK OK
2. The pull handle unlock solenoid functions when performing test port 7 - 137.
2. No Test port 7-137 results in activating coin relay.
3. The pull handle photo eye switch cases were black not gray so the DIP switch #7 was moved from OFF to ON.
3. Yes they are black. And dip switch #7 in in ON positon.
4. The door lock micro switch was closed (the lever was taped down)? Also 206 is the incorrect code for the micro switch, 206 is for the HANDLE UNLOCK SWITCH, code #003 is the door lock micro. There's something flakey going on with the MPU support program. Make sure the 8933 Eprom chip is seated all the way down in the socket and there's no bent pins, the socket appears to have damage at pins 1 & 2.
4. The door lock micro switch lever is OK. Code 206 is from test port 6 test. With dip switch in OFF and in test port 6 the code was 100 *see my reply #9. All the chip there is sockets are seated. The 8933 chip is OK. Looks like the original sock was 24 pin and 4 more pins were added to accommodate the 28 pin chip.
5. While to MPU board is pulled out it wouldn't hurt to clean the edge connectors with some electronics cleaner.
5. The first thing I did when first got the slot. Did it again.
6. Something I've done in the past was pushing the pull handle solenoid plunger in and zip tying. Doing so will permit use of the handle with the main door closed. The door can be closed, coins entered and the handle pulled to play. Worth a try...
6. Did not work.
7. When you close the door (now with the key switch taped) are there any error codes indicated in the WINNER PAID METER? Does the "Insert Coin" lamp come on?
7. Just code 50
Any other ideas or thoughts?
Thanks for your help....
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Hey thanks for checking those items listed.
So we're still not 100% sure the pull handle coil is good or bad. While we're waiting for info from UNIMAN you can take a quick check on the pull handle release solenoid coil. Pull the plug and check the ohms across the coil to make sure it's not open. The voltage to the coil is supplied from a relay board mounted on the back wall behind the reels (since you have green dot power supply). Please verify that there is a relay board.
Also a clarification with the black cased photo eyes I was referring to, do yours look like the attached photo? The newer style eyes have a three wire plug and are mounted with one screw. The older conventional photo eyes, grey and black, mount with two screws and the three wires are soldered on. If your handle switches have two screws then the #7 DIP switch needs to be off.
Did you try the automatic "TEST PORT NO. 5"? It will sequentially advance through each port and indicate the port code in the LED display.
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Let us start over. Please be patient.
First, can you post a pic of the inside of the door. Want to see coin comparitor and optics below.
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I see NO coin-in optics.
Wait a minute do I see BLACK optics under that comparitor????
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Hey thanks for checking those items listed.
So we're still not 100% sure the pull handle coil is good or bad. While we're waiting for info from UNIMAN you can take a quick check on the pull handle release solenoid coil. Pull the plug and check the ohms across the coil to make sure it's not open. The voltage to the coil is supplied from a relay board mounted on the back wall behind the reels (since you have green dot power supply). Please verify that there is a relay board.
Also a clarification with the black cased photo eyes I was referring to, do yours look like the attached photo? The newer style eyes have a three wire plug and are mounted with one screw. The older conventional photo eyes, grey and black, mount with two screws and the three wires are soldered on. If your handle switches have two screws then the #7 DIP switch needs to be off.
Did you try the automatic "TEST PORT NO. 5"? It will sequentially advance through each port and indicate the port code in the LED display.
The photo sensors do not look like your picture. Mine have a black casing around the sensor and hard wired to the sensor board. I put a black on the handle sensor to block light from the bright room light. Also someone put tape around the covers to keep them from falling off. Th handle solenoid works for test port 5 and test port 7 code 137.
Sent UNIMAN pic's of the inside door. Also will add additional info on next post.
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I see NO coin-in optics.
Wait a minute do I see BLACK optics under that comparitor????
The tape holds the sensor cover from moving or falling off. Confirmed tape does not cover sensor
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This file photo shows an open door and this machine has grey optics. Notice they cover the entire coin path width.
If you have black optics they appear to just the coin width as it drops.
You say it accepts coins. DO THEY SHOW UP IN THE CREDIT METER, 1-2-3???
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What is in my red circle? Does it have any wiring attached?
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What is in my red circle? Does it have any wiring attached?
That is a coin optical sensor with black cover
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Can you take a pic of the front of door when closed.
I am getting a much better idea what you have.
I suspect you have no functional buttons on this machine? It maybe a very old cabinet with 1990 game.
Need to see the front.
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I see NO coin-in optics.
Wait a minute do I see BLACK optics under that comparitor????
The tape holds the sensor cover from moving or falling off. Confirmed tape does not cover sensor
Forgot to tell you there is a coin compactor.
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Can you take a pic of the front of door when closed.
I am getting a much better idea what you have.
I suspect you have no functional buttons on this machine? It maybe a very old cabinet with 1990 game.
Need to see the front.
Also did confirm EPROM number 99051 is 1990 game. Here is picture of front.
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Yes, your eproms appear fine. 9051.0006 is a 91.9% payback game. That is based on millions of plays.
The System Chip is 8933.0023 I believe. I have some documentation from Universal that says the 9051 is compatable with 8933.
Your board is an older board as they added pin holes to a 24-pin socket to 28 pins. I used to have a few like that, they worked fine.
And as nice as that cabinet is there are no Bet 1, Spin Button, Cash Out, or Max Bet buttons. Bummer, no wonder you need the handle working. And the board is not wired for buttons.
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Ok, let's get after that handle.
But first; you turn on the machine and close the door. You drop 1 coin in.
Question; Does the machine have sound when you start it, (should be a woop, woop, woop) with door open?
If yes there is sound, do you hear a sound when coin incerted? And do you see a 1 in credit meter?
Actually it would be the small "Coin In" meter.
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Ok, let's get after that handle.
But first; you turn on the machine and close the door. You drop 1 coin in.
Question; Does the machine have sound when you start it, (should be a woop, woop, woop) with door open?
If yes there is sound, do you hear a sound when coin incerted? And do you see a 1 in credit meter?
Actually it would be the small "Coin In" meter.
1.Turned on machine and woop, woop, woop sound with door open.
2. Closed door "NO SOUND" when inserting 1 coin. Display "1" in credit meter. My machine is set for 3 coins. After 3rd coin inserted "Insert lite" goes out and "coin accepted flashes".
3. Handle solenoid is not released.
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Good morning,
OK, it is ready for play. Sorry to drag it out, I must know it is ready for play and it is.
Sounds like handle optic problem.
Do this;--- Restart machine with RAM clear to get rid of the three credits you have added.
----Open door and go to Test #7 and activate the handle coil. (NOTE; Believe you said you can move the handle at this point. With one hand pull the handle just a few inches and hold it there to keep it released.
--With the other hand advance to Test #6.
--In test #6 slowly pull handle all the way down and then return it to top position while watching the win meter for numbers.
You should see maybe 205, 207 and then 206 for sure.
Sequence of what is supposed to take place;
First coin is incerted and CLICK you hear the handle coil activate.
Release Optic 206 is turned OFF
You start to pull the handle and Return Optic 205 is turned ON. Downstroke Optic 207 is turned OFF
Once the handle is all the way down DownStroke Optic is turned ON, Coil de-energizes and Release Optic 206 is ON
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Good morning,
OK, it is ready for play. Sorry to drag it out, I must know it is ready for play and it is.
Sounds like handle optic problem.
Do this;--- Restart machine with RAM clear to get rid of the three credits you have added.
----Open door and go to Test #7 and activate the handle coil. (NOTE; Believe you said you can move the handle at this point. With one hand pull the handle just a few inches and hold it there to keep it released.
--With the other hand advance to Test #6.
--In test #6 slowly pull handle all the way down and then return it to top position while watching the win meter for numbers.
You should see maybe 205, 207 and then 206 for sure.
Sequence of what is supposed to take place;
First coin is incerted and CLICK you hear the handle coil activate.
Release Optic 206 is turned OFF
You start to pull the handle and Return Optic 205 is turned ON. Downstroke Optic 207 is turned OFF
Once the handle is all the way down DownStroke Optic is turned ON, Coil de-energizes and Release Optic 206 is ON
1. No the test port 7 code 137 and pushing in the white door switch does not activate the handle coil. But is did activate the coin lock coil. Also posted with Pits256 the handle coil is not released.
2. Did port test 6 and when covering the photo sensor none of them show a code in the display. All three handle photo eye outputs were checked from pins 1 to 3 of each plug while blocking and unblocking the eye and the output voltage went up and down from +5vdc to 0vdc.
NOTE: Don't know if this is reverent.
A) To activate a port test (MOU is reset) I press the service 4 times by pressing the service switch 4 time (NOT 7 for my slot). Will display error a "21' COIN JAM
B) The number 5016 etched several places in the cabinet, including the power supply cover.
C) Based on all the info we have so far this is worth noting. With the machine MPU reset and coins inserted and accepted (3 for my machine) the MPU needs to receive this request and activate the handle coil.
1. The MPU does not receive the request it can lot go to next step.
** At this point all test voltages on all photo sensors are correct and solenoid coil is good.
2. If MPU does receive request then it activates handle coil..
3. The problem seems to lie between the “coin accepted” request and the output to the handle solenoid.
If the is a good schematic diagram for the MPU board I can verify and track down the problem.
What do you think?
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The etched number means nothing to me. Most likely a casino etched that number to identify it in inventory.
Your test problems are very wierd and I have never seen that before. I would remove the mpu and then unscrew the frame and connector in the machine and inspect the wiring behind it. Have found in the past small screws and even coins back there shorting and causing all kinds of weird issues.
I see in your reply #7 pic it looks like the Solid State Relay that controls the handle is mounted in front of the meter box. That was done on the earliest of machines. Later all SSR's were in the power supply. That relay may be the problem.
Also in reply #7 you stated coil was activated and was able to pull handle. ???
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What is supposed to happen is the coil is energized on 1st coin in and accepted.
If the release optic has failed the coil will not energize.
That is why I lean optic problem even though you see 0/5 volts while testing optics. Especially the top release optic.
I would try swapping optics.
Also, in the door under the coin diverter is another optic. Just to let you know this optic can be removed and used as a spare. Probably not the same config as handle optics though.
And I still suggest you take a look at the back of mpu cage for screws shorting something. Could be something on the test button wiring. Worth a look, seen similar issues in past.
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One more question; Does the machine have a hopper?
If yes, what type? Big green/black metal hopper, red/black plastic hopper, or another type.
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One more question; Does the machine have a hopper?
If yes, what type? Big green/black metal hopper, red/black plastic hopper, or another type.
Don't know if this the correct format to respond to several messages in one quote.
Reply #31
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Your test problems are very wierd and I have never seen that before. I would remove the mpu and then unscrew the frame and connector in the machine and inspect the wiring behind it. Have found in the past small screws and even coins back there shorting and causing all kinds of weird issues.
Sorry for the delay in replying.
1. Did remove the MPU board when I first got the machine. Replaced the battery, notice slite corrosion around some component leads and battery. I used fiberglass PC board brush for cleaning circuit boards and cleaned the area. No circuit traces appeared not be damaged. Finished by cleaning with board cleaner and wiped dry. I also removed all the IC’s from their sockets. Then cleaned pins with contact cleaner. There was one had oxidation the pins. Cleaned the pins with #400 sand and contact cleaner. Reinstalled all the IC’s. I have tools for removing and inserting IC’s and makes the task allot easier. It very easy to bend the pins.
NOTE: For several decades when working on electronic boards, I work a bench that is ESD (Electrostatic Sensitive discharge) safe. I use an ESD matt, ESD strap that is connected to a good earth ground. Also the bench is GFI protected. **See attached pictures of the board and IC.**
I see in your reply #7 pic it looks like the Solid State Relay that controls the handle is mounted in front of the meter box. That was done on the earliest of machines. Later all SSR's were in the power supply. That relay may be the problem.
2. Removed the SSD for easy access to the leads. Connected volt meter to + and – leads. Ran port #5 and at code 117 meter reading about 5 volts and relay energized.
Also in reply #7 you stated coil was activated and was able to pull handle. ???
3. “Sorry my error”. Test Port 7 code 117 did not activate handle relay. It activated the coin lock solenoid which pertains to coin lock solenoid. Repeated test 7 and advanced to code 114 and it activated the coin lock solenoid. NO clue what that means?? Ran test 5 port (auto advance), when it displayed code 117 the handle relay turn on.
Reply #32
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What is supposed to happen is the coil is energized on 1st coin in and accepted.
If the release optic has failed the coil will not energize.
That is why I lean optic problem even though you see 0/5 volts while testing optics. Especially the top release optic.
I would try swapping optics.
**Have not swapped the optics yet. Will let you know
And I still suggest you take a look at the back of mpu cage for screws shorting something. Could be something on the test button wiring. Worth a look, seen similar issues in past
1. I have performed and extensive visual test, using a magnifying work bench light on both sides of the MPU board. Found no addition problems, except what I described in my reply.
Reply #33
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One more question; Does the machine have a hopper?
If yes, what type? Big green/black metal hopper, red/black plastic hopper, or another type.
1. Yes is does. See attached picture.
Thanks for all your help. It greatly appreciated. I am new at working on electronic slot machines.
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Thanks for sharing info, very helpful.
You have removed the mpu and inspected, corrected issues. Great.
I think you should remove the mpu cage with edge connectors and inspect wiring behind edge connectors. Especially after seeing that dirty hopper.
There could be corrosion or screws, etc. lodged back there. See in the manual the test switch wire is #10 on the bottom edge connector, a brown wire.
The fact that the test button is jumping ahead so much (press 4 times get test 7) is strange. Could be mpu, could be wiring issue. This test switch wire is the tenth wire from the top of the edge connector on the right, and next to it on the left is the handle release optic wire.
Side note;
The eprom code is observed at every startup with a polarity check. If even one bit is corrupted you get an error at startup. So eprom code should be fine.
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THIS IS A LONG REPLY, BUT GOOD NEWS. PLEASE READ ON.
« Reply #35 on: Today at 10:41:39 AM »
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Thanks for sharing info, very helpful.
You have removed the mpu and inspected, corrected issues. Great.
I think you should remove the mpu cage with edge connectors and inspect wiring behind edge connectors. Especially after seeing that dirty hopper.
1. On of the first things I did earlier was to remove the mpu cage. Also removed the connector screws to get a better view. Look at all the wiring and connectors and ALL OK. No foreign junk or stuff floating around.
There could be corrosion or screws, etc. lodged back there. See in the manual the test switch wire is #10 on the bottom edge connector, a brown wire.
2. Wire checks OK
The fact that the test button is jumping ahead so much (press 4 times get test 7) is strange. Could be mpu, could be wiring issue. This test switch wire is the tenth wire from the top of the edge connector on the right, and next to it on the left is the handle release optic wire.
3. On my machine I need to press the test button 4 times then press the test to #7 to manually run the test for each code. Pressing test five time results in tilt turning on.
Side note;
The eprom code is observed at every startup with a polarity check. If even one bit is corrupted you get an error at startup. So eprom code should be fine.
UPDATE on new findings 02-20-2024
1. With the door open and turning the key to lock and unlock, there is no mechanism that would turn the micro switch on or off. Also there is no mechanical lever or arm on the cabinet to activate the switch when closing the door.
IT appears that the door locking arm may have been altered. If not then there should something to activate the door switch when the door is closed. Found a picture of a similar door latching system but not for my machine. I can figure out how to fabricate on. “”Need to know what position the switch arm need to be in with the door unlocked and in the open position.””
2. I believe I solved the weird machine problems. When running test and partially closing the door strange things were happening. Speaker puzzling noise stopped (no big deal), then also tilt light came on, coin mech opening and closing the coin latch. With door open I flexed the wires near the 36 pin Molex plug. Separated the plugs and cleaned with contact cleaner and small brush. No change. After carefully looking and the female plug allot are spread open to the point they will not make a tight fit with the male pins. Tried to close the female pins but still have intermittent problems. Think I can buy just the male-female pins and rewire the Molex plugs. I have the tools for removing and crimping the pins.
“Do you have another ideas?”
Look at the picture for Coin Comparitor and the DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY
On a positive note I did get the machine to work twice.
NOTE I will be away and will be back Friday night 02-23-24 :thank_you:
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Good to hear your getting somewhere. That big plug can have the female and/or male ends get pushed down too. Have seen that.
Keep us updated.