General NLG Chat > Before and After Restoration Pics

S+ to S2000 Conversion Project

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Stayouttadabunker:
I had an old S+ cabinet sitting around gathering dust.  :guilty:

I wasn't doing anything with it but I had a bunch of S2000 parts laying around gathering dust too... :duh: :guilty: :guilty:

One rainy day  :gloomy: with not much to do, a sleepy  :zzzz: Sunday really  :sleep:

an idea popped into my head! :idea_2: 

I really couldn't find  :sherlock: any instructional manual on how to convert an S+ into an S2000 :arrowthruhead:

so I asked around for some S2000 metal guts, more parts and began to convert my S+ cabinet into an S2000. :arrowthruhead:

Can it be done? :Scratch-Head: Hell ya!  :rotfl:

Here's how I'm doing it...>>>

First, I completely gut out the S+ cabinet... right down to bare bones...leaving only the door on but that too is stripped of all parts too.

Click on any photo to enlarge....>>.

Stayouttadabunker:
Then I carefully remove the left and backside side laminate because I'm going to have self tapping screws going thru the cabinet walls.
I can glue back on the original laminate later on or go buy some new sheets to put on later?  :scratch-head_2: I don't know yet.


Now, I locate the inner panel of the MPU "cage" against the left wall to see what I need to remove to allow it to lay flush against the cabinet wall.
I marked out a couple of screws and metal tie-offs that need to be cut out with a hand grinder with a good new metal cutting disk.

This part is dangerous so it was important to wear the proper safety equipment such as goggles, leather gloves and a face shield.
Ears plugs are optional because of the noise but I'm half deaf anyways so the noise didn't bother me.

Stayouttadabunker:
Then I placed the inner cage panel back against the back wall and into the floor groove I cut out with the grinding wheel.
(The outer panel has a tab that is inserted into this "groove."}

At this point, I drilled a single small self-tapping screw to secure the inner panel into the cabinet.
Remember, the back laminate is peeled off for now - to allow me to grind of the excess length of the screws sticking out the back of the cabinet.

I will actually take that single screw back out after grinding it flush with the back of the cabinet,
apply some RED threadlock to the threads and reinstall.

Stayouttadabunker:
Now, place the rear protective heat plastic onto the backplane studs and secure the backplane board with 7 screws.


I like to start with the top center screw loosely, put in the other 6 screws, then hand tighten with a Philips screwdriver.

Stayouttadabunker:
Next move is to attach the outer panel of the "cage" and secure that with a single screw on the bottom hole.

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