**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines > IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games

IGT PE+ CRT to LCD Conversion

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Moderator's note: this thread contains multiple posts from previous incarnations of the NewLifeGames message forums about about IGT PE+ CRT to LCD conversion.

If you prefer to skip to the best posted solution on how to convert your PE+ from a CRT to a LCD monitor, skip down to Reply #19.  You may also find the wiring diagram attached to the bottom of Reply #26 helpful.  This topic is locked - if you have questions about doing this conversion, please start a new topic.

Originally posted by GENIUSSLOT:

« on: January 25, 2008, 03:02:09 PM » 

I really appreciatte the comments about this, about the interface we have a little business in colombia we are development devices for better working equipment and the interface are one of them, we have another things like hopper emulator that pay like a hopper whitout physical hopper in machine the interface vga are commercial and the nearly cost is  90 dollars (shipment are not included) we can sell or trade whit someone if are interested, this interface are tested too in cherry master games and aristocrat games, now we are working in version 2.0 for better resolution, the only purpose that we have is made easy the work of slot techs in different machines, at soon that is posible we put the link for our web page where do you see a complet list for devices that we are development, like a lcd counters for replace the mechanical counters in machines and autoreset tilt igt error codes, the interfce are avalaible for anyone that needs, this idea borns because in our country the parts for slot machines are very expensive and sometimes are hard to get, we want offer real solutions for troubles whit less cost for people one more time very thanks for this commnets this say to us that we are keeping our ideas for better service for slot machines.



Originally posted by TZtech on 2/10/2010:

Hello All

Ceronix now has a direct replacement LCD that will work on the PE+. Have not done a PE+ yet but was very happy with their replacement LCD for WMS bluebird.


You can also get it directly from Ceronix.

The signal is CGA and also some timing signals are inverted (this is what the mod fixes) - Once you have the correct CGA signal you could use the CGA to VGA convertor.


Ps - I think Geniusslot is now ERtech -  The English products page on his site does not sem to work but you can check this http://www.freewebs.com/ertech-gaming/productos.htm

Originally posted by next_gaming on 2/11/2010:


I´am a geniusslot friend, to this time he retired to the company and work in his own projects under sas and progressive systems, however he told me that the vga converter is still avalaible and the price is low and this board works whit cherry master and aristocrat whit 15 khz monitors too, if somebody wants a further details contact the company under ertechg@hotmail.com and ask for Mr Elkin Tabares the phone number is 57(4)2346413. He can send all information about this units.

Best Regards

Next G

Originally posted by ROCKET on 7/23/2010:

The output of the PE+ logic for red green and blue is inverted. So, the Ceronix monitor has jumpers to use inverted video.  Other than an old Nintendo monitor (like in Donkey Kong), there are no other monitors that accept inverted video.

Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Okay...I found this schematic of the PE+ motherboard for the J9 plug going to the CRT monitor.

Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Yep...I'm working on it! lol

Originally posted by TZtech on 10/1/2010:

Hi Guys

Yes we have established that the color signals are inverted - This can be fixed there was a mod for this on the old site and I have seen a small PCB on some modified made in china CGA monitors I have seen in the field on PE+ machines. What I would like to know is if the horizontal and vertical synchs will be correctly decoded by this board. Like Rocket I am also curious to see what the inverted colour image looks like.

SB - The problem I see on your pinout for the converter board is that it has only one synch signal input. The PE+ has seperate vertical and horizontal synch outputs.
If you have a look at the converter HAPP sells you will see there are options for both modes of operation - http://www.happ.com/monitors/49272700.htm

There are plenty on Ebay that look similar to yours but no manuals for dowload - If you did get a manual have a look if it supports dual synch.


Originally posted by knagl on 10/1/2010:


You have a GBS-8220.  From earlier in the thread, I bought the same thing.

The PE+ uses separate horizontal and vertical sync.  The GBS-8220 needs composite sync (as best as I was able to figure out).  I started to look into how to convert H+V to Composite, and that's about as far as I got when I was trying to make mine work.

I did eventually find a decent .pdf manual for the GBS-8220 (every other "manual" out there was only one or two pages).  I'll dig it up and get it to you as soon as I can find it -- it really helped to identify what each pin on the GBS-8220 was for, and what types of inputs are accepted where on the card.

Learn from one mistake I made with the thing.  It requires really beefy power -- 5 volts, 2 amps, if memory serves correctly.  Most wall wart transformers don't put out enough amperage -- it may appear to work, but under load (with a good video signal), it will flake out on you.  Once I figured that out, when I was testing, I wound up using a Mikohn power supply as it pumps out the right voltage with plenty of amperage to go with it.

I originally tried the smaller 8-pin connector (labeled RGBS) and didn't get far -- again, I need to find the manual, but I think that only those big pins (the ones you highlighted) are designed to accept CGA.  (Edit: It looks like from the black and white image below that you can give CGA to the 8-pin -- I also found the following:

Red Video to Red Wire/P11 (R)
Green Video to Green Wire/P11 (G)
Blue Video to Blue Wire/P11 (B)
H. Sync to Gray Wire/P11 (S)
V. Sync to Yellow Wire/P11 (VS)
Ground Ref to Black Wire/P11 (GND)
Connect the 8-pin (6 wires) RGB cable to P11 on the GBS-8220 converter PCB. )

You might be interested in the thread I started on a different site -- it didn't get me too far, but provides a little information.  I remember (from reading that thread) that the .pdf documentation does list the "S" on the 8-pin connector as shield, not sync, so don't use the 8-pin connector (you weren't planning to anyway):

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=113853  (There are two pages of information there -- look for the little "page 2" navigation in the lower right corner of the last post.)

(Click to enlarge and clear up the muddy text.)

More reading: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=98692.0

Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

I'm getting somewhere!  :136-I'm getting somewhere with this!!! lololo :72- :200-

Originally posted by TZtech on 10/1/2010:


Nice to hear from somebody that has tried to get these working. Further checking on the various EBAY links led me to this site - http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cga/ega/yuv-to-vga-converter-pcb-gbs-8220/prod_291.html.
There are links on that page to the manual in PDF as well as a setup instruction including how to connect Seperate Synchs

Going back in this thread to the post Kevin is referring to it would seem this model is an upgrade to the one that Happ sells at $60 cheaper and its shipped from the US

SB - You have all the info now- We want pictures  :96-

Edit - Ok you beat me to it and went one better - Video. The colours are not right as expected and the siganl loss is I suspect is due to the Synch issue but its looking promising - Great Work

Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Arghhhhh!!!  :37- The Sync sucks  :50- :50- :50- on this sucking thing!!!  :8-    :208- :97-
The picture is jumping around like Mexican beans.
It doesn't know left from right or up and down...blah!!!!! :52- :60-
I need a dual-sync composite composer compacter! Craps!

Think I'll save this board for an old cherry master board.
I give up! It's Friday! I'm going home!
I'll get back on it another blue moon!

Originally posted by TZtech on 10/1/2010:

Come on SB - You can do it  :96-

P10 is RGBHV and Kevins info suggests that that connector is CGA so pretty sure that will do the trick

Looking at the schemtic for the colour outputs - The only part after the Colour Attribute Prom (CAP) is a 74Hc574. This is a Octal D type Flip Flop with non inverting outputs.
If you replace this with a 74HV534 which is the same thing but with inverting outputs the colour problem should be sorted (Thats my theory anyway - Going through my old digital electronics handbook I am shocked at how little I remember of this stuff).


Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Knagl's all over the other website asking questions and one answer
he got was to twist the two separate H and V sync wires together and
use the 5-pin R,G,B, Gnd, and single S pin on the board he has like mine.
I didn't try that.

Originally posted by knagl on 10/1/2010:

Well hey now, you got something!  All I could get was a tiny blip of an image for a fraction of a second -- you could clearly see cards in your test.

Do you have the 8-pin connector that plugs into P11?  I just noticed something in the instructions that I just found:

--- Quote ---Red Video to Red Wire/P11 (R)
Green Video to Green Wire/P11 (G)
Blue Video to Blue Wire/P11 (B)
H. Sync to Gray Wire/P11 (S)
V. Sync to Yellow Wire/P11 (VS)
Ground Ref to Black Wire/P11 (GND)
Connect the 8-pin (6 wires) RGB cable to P11 on the GBS-8220 converter PCB.
--- End quote ---

I'm positive that when I tested, I had H Sync attached to HS, not S.  Perhaps it's worth trying the way they mention, using that P11 connector?

Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Yeah knagl!
I was using the 8-pin [P11] connector.
I didn't have the 5-pin RGB connector really so I went the other route.
The picture was jumping all over the place though.
Did you ever try twisting the two separate  H & V sync wires together and
connecting them to the the composite "S" pin on the P3 connector like the guys said on KLOV?
Maybe that'll stop the Jumping Beans?

I'd still like to try the RBGHV serial port ( P10) but I don't know the pin outs of that port on the board.
The traces are hidden underneath the serial port housing itself.

Originally posted by TZtech on 10/1/2010:

Hello Guys

Found another manual here - http://www.converters.tv/products/cga_to_vga/657.html. I suspect that your card is a clone of this product (Do the chinese clone chinese products   :rotfl: )

It specifically states that it support CGA Separate Sync (15khz).


Originally posted by stayouttadabunker on 10/1/2010:

Which one of these do you think we should try TZ?
I found your link and this pin-outs of the input ports on the board?
If I use the 8-pin header, which wire should the "shield" wire (gray) connect to on the PE+?


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