New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: dposea on February 21, 2018, 04:58:44 PM
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My Little Devils S+ sat plugged in for a long time, and now has 0018 in the LED display and the key does nothing. On startup the reels spin then the 0018 appears. I'm just starting to learn about the machine so I'm not sure how to check the MPU. If that is the board in a plastic box next to the main board none of it's lights are coming on. I'm going to check the power supply output tonight according to the instrcutions in the sticky post. I'm trying to get the hopper out so I can get to the main board. If there are faqs or instructions I need to read please let me know. I'll take pics as soon as I figure out the hopper removal. I have removed the reels, top and bottom, for access. This is just a home use machine converted to token use, but it will still take a $20 bill for faster play. Are any of the diagnostic plugs useful with a PC? Thanks in advamce for any help.
Some updated info. The battery on the main board was dead. I replaced it but did not charge the new one and it's also dead. Turning on te power I don't get the reels moving or any error codes. I could not find a battery on the upper board, which has an MPU5 plugged into the front of it. I'm going to remove the battery, make sure it charges, then try again, checking all the connections. I could never find am 0018 code so maybe the dead battery was the whole issue. I have ordered a new 1/2 AA lipo, for now I'm using a spare 3.6v, 1200 mah cell from my RC equipment. I keep good cells from bad lipos to use as replacements. You can save an expensive lipo pack, but you need to be very sure you know what you are doing, follow safety routines to the letter, and expect problems. The first charge on an altered pack takes palce outside in an old ammo container, and I have had two packs burn up on the first charge. One was my fault setting the maximum charge MAH way too high, the second just burned up with correct setting and a 2 amp charge rate on a 2000mah pack, or 1C charging.
Please let me know if you have any ideas of things I need to check. I'm going to order a clear and set chip set just in case I need to clear CMOS.
Thanks,
David
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More info. Only the upper set of reels and LED display seem to work. The Credits, Coins Bet, and Win leds never light up, and the lower reels never move. Pressing the reset button on the back of the Power toggle switch does nothing, nor does turning the key.
How can I verify the main board is working at all? There are LEDs but you can't see them with the board installed. If someone has the connector pinout info I can power the board from a variable power supply to check if it's working at all. I'm reading everything I can so I don't ask stupid questions. If I need a new board where do I get one, and how much does one cost, roughtly?
Thanks,
David
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I don't know anything about Barcrest machines but on a regular S+ the molex connector that goes to the motherboard sometimes gets a burned spot on the backside causing power problems. Also maybe the power supply for the bottom could be bad. This will be the connector turned around to see the burn mark.
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s+ does not take a lipo battery. the battery is non rechargeable lithium battery. it would be a lot easier to help with pics of machine
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my molex connector looks exactly like the one pictured, I tested the voltage on that connector and I get 12VAC between 1 and 6. 5 and 6 is 24VAC, 2 and 3 is 7.8 and 2 and 4 is 8.6. I took out the motherboard to check for coins, etc, and found an area where the traces have been exposed. The main board seems to be dead. No lights, no function with reset, nothing. I probed some sort of random points like Vcc and ground on a couple of chips, and got 5.04 volts DC, so the voltage has been converted and stepped down. The transformer screws were loose but it seems to be fine. I'll post pics of some empty sockets and "spare" plugs in another post. I need to edit them to circle things, etc. I have a battery on the way, the right one. I'm impatient at times :)'
I'll search for other threads about that burned connector. Other than that I think I have done all I can without guidance. Should I order a new board?
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my molex connector looks exactly like the one pictured, I tested the voltage on that connector and I get 12VAC between 1 and 6. 5 and 6 is 24VAC, 2 and 3 is 7.8 and 2 and 4 is 8.6. I took out the motherboard to check for coins, etc, and found an area where the traces have been exposed. The main board seems to be dead. No lights, no function with reset, nothing. I probed some sort of random points like Vcc and ground on a couple of chips, and got 5.04 volts DC, so the voltage has been converted and stepped down. The transformer screws were loose but it seems to be fine. I'll post pics of some empty sockets and "spare" plugs in another post. I need to edit them to circle things, etc. I have a battery on the way, the right one. I'm impatient at times :)'
I'll search for other threads about that burned connector. Other than that I think I have done all I can without guidance. Should I order a new board?
You will either need to clean the inside of the burned connector and the post below or replace the connector and then clean below, personally I would replace it. The burned spot is where lack of good contact has caused arcing inside the connector. This connector supplies power to the mother board. Chances are the board is not bad. Actually some of our vendors at the top of the home page have those connectors or replacement plugs with pigtails. That burnt connector will shut things down. Don't start spending money on boards until you need to. If we go a step at a time we'll save you some money. Look for posts about "burned connector" in this forum.
Dave
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I agree, Replace that connector or the harness with the newer style connectors that touch on 3 sides instead of 1. Then your displays will light and your reels will have power and machine should boot and be ready to play. Sometimes you can slide that connector up and down a few time to make contact. Will not last for long but will be playable for a short while.
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That was it. I cleaned up the bad pin and post and got a 12. A new battery should be here tomorrow. I'll make a donation to the website to say thanks. Without the people here I would probably never got it fixed. It's too big to take to a shop. I also need new door optics because I pulled a wire out of one sensor.
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I doubt just cleaning it will last long. Needs to be replaced to the better connector. There are vendors here and EBay has them for around $15.
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I doubt just cleaning it will last long. Needs to be replaced to the better connector. There are vendors here and EBay has them for around $15.
:I_agree_1:
Electrical arcing causes the metal to be burned away. The more of it gone, the more likely the arcing will return. Now is a great time to fix this correctly as it is all fresh in your mind. You're going to have the MPU board out to replace the battery, great time to fix that connector too. When you replace the optics, they are specific to their position. The one for the cabinet will not work on the door nor will the door optic work on the cabinet. The alignment will be important also. Sounds like you're off to a great start, good job.
Dave
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I actually could not believe that pin could be a problem, but obviously I know less than I think. I'll be replacing the connector with the new style with 3 sided contacts. I just cleaned it up as a test. I'm loooking at the cherry switch option now, since there was one in the door not connected to anything. It seems like a better option since you can pull out the plunger to test with an open door.
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I think the bypass is only for S2000. I may be wrong, but don't remember anyone doing it to an S+
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Here's a link for the optic bypass from the other site. Reply 10 by stayouttadabunker has a cherry switch bypass setup.
Dave
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16714.msg141959#msg141959. (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16714.msg141959#msg141959.)
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I'm loooking at the cherry switch option now, since there was one in the door not connected to anything. It seems like a better option since you can pull out the plunger to test with an open door.
I would highly recommend keeping the original optical sensors in an S+ machine. Some S+ games will not get past a 61 error with the optics bypassed, since the optical sensor sends a pulse of 1010101010... and a cherry switch would always just show as closed (or open, but not pulsing). Get a new set of optics for $10 or whatever they're going for these days and you'll be set. Do note the wire colors on your existing emitter and receiver, and match the new set to that. Both sides use the exact same connector, so it's easy to accidentally reverse them when installing them.
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I make marks on the cabinet side for replacement or pop the optic out rather than unscrew it. The door side doesn't have any adjustment.
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If you still need it, here's a link to the power supply harness you need. Listed by one of our members/vendors Samron Slots.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S-Mother-board-to-power-supply-Harness/323104092186?hash=item4b3a81301a:g:wY4AAOSw4CFY2VT1 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S-Mother-board-to-power-supply-Harness/323104092186?hash=item4b3a81301a:g:wY4AAOSw4CFY2VT1)