New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => Other Video Games => Topic started by: rapidroy on September 19, 2017, 07:59:56 PM
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Hi All
just pick this one up it would light up but thats all. I pulled the monitor and the main board all looked ok it has a battery i've never seen before (i will post pic later) and put all back in, plug it in and it played one hand and thats all. it has a nickel in the comparer but the screen says 25. the guy did say it played 5 cent . it did give me a checksum error but went away when i turned it off then on. it will not count coin in. any one with a manual? to setup coin in
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more pic's
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battery/supercap had .176 of a volt and my cap checker shows it bad if you can check it that way.
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I don't know anything about this particular machine, sorry. But wanted to say that a "supercap" is technically a capacitor that has very low loss, so it can store a voltage for a long time and that lets it act like a battery. When the machine is powered on the supercap will charge to the full voltage it is connected to (often 5 volts or similar in things like this). Then when the machine is powered off the supercap will send that voltage to the cmos ram chip it is keeping "alive" while the machine is powered off. This preserves the data in the cmos ram chip. Many electronic devices use a supercap instead of a battery because the supercap lasts for a much longer time than a battery.
Your cap checker may be giving a false reading because the supercap is installed in the circuit board and is connected to other circuits. If the supercap is not holding a charge it is likely bad, you can try replacing it. Also, a defective cmos ram chip can be shorted internally and drain the supercap voltage, so that is a possibility too. The cmos ram chip is likely the large chip near the supercap.
I checked the NLG download area for manuals on Takasago but didn't find anything. My search found that Takasago is mainly known for their pachislo machines, but below may be a manual for this slot machine, you'd want to check with them to see what machine model it covers:
http://stealthhome.stores.yahoo.net/tausma.html (http://stealthhome.stores.yahoo.net/tausma.html)
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the supercap is a 5.5v .033mf. the cap checker is a "Blue ESR checker" which makes finding bad caps in circuit easy and fast.
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the supercap is a 5.5v .033mf. the cap checker is a "Blue ESR checker" which makes finding bad caps in circuit easy and fast.
Sounds like the supercap is bad and will need to be replaced.
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i replaced it and i got it to play but only counts credits when the door is open if i shut the door the coins just go through. and it does not payout yet?
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That's odd behavior. Is there a door switch that tells the machine when the door is open or closed? If so, maybe someone switched the wires around on it??
Do you mean it only gives you a credit for coins inserted if you leave the door open? Not understanding your wording, please be specific or more clear.
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OK i got it working with door open and closed. the coin comparor needed some work it still lets all coins in but seems only to credit the quarters if i put a nickel in it passes to the hopper but no credit. it still will not pay out but then the pay out button is broken. it does add credits with a winning hand which can be played. the screen is really burned in and the colors are not right.
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need a button
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OK i got it working with door open and closed. the coin comparor needed some work it still lets all coins in but seems only to credit the quarters if i put a nickel in it passes to the hopper but no credit. it still will not pay out but then the pay out button is broken. it does add credits with a winning hand which can be played. the screen is really burned in and the colors are not right.
On slot machines that I am familiar with you can only use one type of coin, can not mix them. So if your coin acceptor/coin comparitor is setup for quarters that is the only coin you can use. If you put different size coins into your hopper that can cause problems like coin jams. Can you post a photo of your coin comparitor?
Machines that have CRT displays will have screen burn after all the years of use. The same thing used to happen on computer monitors. The phosphor coating on the inside of the CRT gets a permanent image. You can try to improve it by adjusting the screen brightness a little, or adjust the contrast control (if there is one). Otherwise it is what it is. You could try to find another display of the same or similar type and swap them out. And sometimes you can upgrade a machine to an LCD display.
Your photo looks good, the display is not too bad considering the age of the machine. So the machine is pretty much working now?
You said something about needing a button but I can't tell what it looks like. You might be able to use a generic pushbutton made for another machine, like IGT or Bally, as long as it was the right size. Can you post a closeup photo of the button that you need?
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yes it now plays good .....so far. heres the switch i need
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How did you improve the display image, it is better in the last photo compared to the photo in your first post?
The coin comparitor will only give you credit for play when you insert the proper coin into the machine that matches the coin installed in the coin comparitor. You will not get any credits for coins that don't match the coin installed in the coin comparitor, and those improper coins should get rejected back to the coin return on front of machine.
Your machine has a CC-40 coin comparitor. It has an example coin installed in it, this is called the "sample" coin. To play the machine you must insert coins that match this sample coin, no other type of coin is to be used. The sample coin needs to be mounted in the coin holder with its left edge properly in the groove for holding it in place. The sliding coin cover should be as far to the left as possible so that it covers the sample coin as much as possible and the sliding cover screw should be tightened so that the coin cover is laying as close to the sample coin as possible. In the lower right corner of the coin comparitor is a small sensitivity adjustment, it should be turned all the way counter-clockwise to reduce nuisance coin rejections. You can use a small screwdriver to make this adjustment.
Someone may had messed with the coin comparitor and made it so that all coins pass thru. Normally it should only let coins that match the sample coin pass thru to the hopper. Any other coin that isn't like the sample coin should get rejected by the coin comparitor and get sent to the front of the machine back to the player. On the back of the coin comparitor is a metal part called the rake. It's job is to steer rejected coins back to the front of the machine. When the correct coin is inserted the rake will move out of the way and the accepted coin will go to the hopper. Sometimes people will jam or force open the rake so that all coins get past it and go to the hopper. So remove your CC-40 coin comparitor and examine the back of it, see if the rake has been rigged open.
I can't see anything wrong with the pushbuttons in your photo, is the problem a broken button switch or maybe a bad bulb?
(https://s26.postimg.org/dwdekr2mh/P1080371_z1.jpg)
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yes one switch is broken i made it the pay out button because it was one of the card hold ones. it is missing one tab that holds it in and it looks like the magnet thing is missing.
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That's a good solution, move the bad pushbutton to one of the button positions that is not used or not used very much. Can you glue something to the button in place of the broken tab to hold it in place? Is there a "service" or "call attendant" button, if so they are not needed for home use.
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I have a wide range of spare buttons, but nothing like those?
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yeah, those are special buttons. Looks like each one has a little circuit board with resistors and maybe other parts.
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you called it on the rake it was stuck now 5cents fall through. pics of the buttons
green is bad
yellow is good
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Is there a name molded into that white plastic part of the switch? Not likely the Takasago company made the switch itself, they probably bought it from a company that makes switches. If there is a name on it you might be able to locate another one on the internet somewhere. Or look on ebay, you'd be surprised at the oddball and obscure items you can find on there.
Another idea, you could probably find a pushbutton with switch that would fit the hole in the player button panel where that bad pushbutton goes. They make pushbutton switches that are round, square and rectangular. The wires underneath could be connected to the new pushbutton, usually 2 wires go to the switch contacts and 2 other wires go to the light bulb inside the pushbutton. It wouldn't match the other pushbuttons, but if it was off to the side then it may not be a problem.
Where did you get this Takasago machine? Do they have others, maybe non-working ones that you could get parts from? On something like this it might even be a good idea to buy a broken machine to use as a parts machine.
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What kind of sounds does the machine make, are they simple or more elaborate, like when you get a good hand? I've not played or seen one of these machines but I've heard that many were at the old Las Vegas Imperial Palace and the airport at one time. Is your machine working fine except for the one button problem?
Longshot, but maybe worth a try- there is a guy named Robert Sult, he is/was a slot machine and bench repair tech at Treasure Island in LV. He's been in the slot repair business for many years. For about 7 years he was a distributor and repair person for Takasago slot machines and video poker machines. If you can get a hold of him he might be able to get you a manual and parts, or be able to help in some way.
https://www.linkedin.com/in/robert-sult-97184910 (https://www.linkedin.com/in/robert-sult-97184910)
Below is his personal website, he's into a lot of different stuff, his email address is at the bottom of his webpage, maybe you can contact him that way:
http://www.myslotnotes.com/ (http://www.myslotnotes.com/)
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What kind of sounds does the machine make, are they simple or more elaborate, like when you get a good hand? I've not played or seen one of these machines but I've heard that many were at the old Las Vegas Imperial Palace and the airport at one time. Is your machine working fine except for the one button problem?
Longshot, but maybe worth a try- there is a guy named Robert Sult, he is/was a slot machine and bench repair tech at Treasure Island in LV. He's been in the slot repair business for many years. For about 7 years he was a distributor and repair person for Takasago slot machines and video poker machines. If you can get a hold of him he might be able to get you a manual and parts, or be able to help in some way.
[url]https://www.linkedin.com/in/robert-sult-97184910[/url] ([url]https://www.linkedin.com/in/robert-sult-97184910[/url])
Below is his personal website, he's into a lot of different stuff, his email address is at the bottom of his webpage, maybe you can contact him that way:
[url]http://www.myslotnotes.com/[/url] ([url]http://www.myslotnotes.com/[/url])
Great information.. I even added this to my phones home page.. :1:
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i email Robert sult no luck on the manual and switch, it all works great, the sounds are your basic card dealing nothing fancy. now i need to adjust the colors it has a red - green -blue pots the green and blue work red does nothing. i would like to get the black cards black again
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What about that link I posted earlier, is that a possibility to get a manual?
http://stealthhome.stores.yahoo.net/tausma.html (http://stealthhome.stores.yahoo.net/tausma.html)
Also, this place has a lot of slot machine manuals, you could contact them and ask about one for Takasago:
http://www.coinslots.com/ (http://www.coinslots.com/)
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i email Robert sult no luck on the manual and switch, it all works great, the sounds are your basic card dealing nothing fancy. now i need to adjust the colors it has a red - green -blue pots the green and blue work red does nothing. i would like to get the black cards black again
Check the connections and contacts on the video cable from the connector on the mpu board to the connector on the monitor. On older machines there is sometimes tarnish or corrosion on the connector pins or a broken wire. If the wiring looks ok on the video cable then you'll have to figure out if the red is missing from the mpu board, or if the display monitor has a problem with the red signal.
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Would it be possible to put in a standard style button? I see what looks like two wires for a light. The standard button uses a cherry switch. Maybe you could just swap out the broken one with a different cash out button?
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Would it be possible to put in a standard style button? I see what looks like two wires for a light. The standard button uses a cherry switch. Maybe you could just swap out the broken one with a different cash out button?
I was thinking about that too. There are various sizes and shapes of pushbuttons available, there might be one that is close enough to work, especially if it was in a button position on the player panel that isn't used very much. His photo of the backside of the player panel showed that the pushbuttons have a little circuit board and he mentioned something about a magnet back there. So these pushbuttons might be some type of fancy thing, when you push the button a magnet moves and causes a magnetic switch to activate, similar to how a door or window security system switch works. Or the pushbutton may have an optical sensor and when you push down on the pushbutton a piece of plastic moves into position to block the light and the optical sensor activates. It looks like more circuitry than the typical switch we usually see on player pushbuttons.
For a payout or cashout switch any kind of momentary pushbutton could probably be made to work, just need to find one that fits the hole. And it might be possible to adapt or repair the broken pushbutton, the broken plastic might be able to get reformed or added to.
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for now i put the broken one on "MAX BET" it will be the least used. "PAY OUT" would also not be used much but its fun to hear the coins drop in the pan. the switch is magnetic or optical i can trip it with a small screwdriver.
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That pushbutton switch you found on ebay looks like it might work, as long as it fits the hole in your machine. Might want to check what voltage your machine's pushbutton lamps use, make sure it will be ok for the new pushbutton you buy, or plan to adapt it. You can probably measure the voltage going to the bulb with a meter, could be AC or DC.
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I'd be more concerned with the length of the buttons threads and the diameter of the hole needed. The cherry switch should work fine as long as it's not 110v. Most are low voltage 24V or lower.
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the lamp on the switches is 12v i think they are #37 auto lamps. I've pulled the monitor to see if i can get the colors right. :Scratch-Head:
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The switches are a 5 wire hall effect switch and it will not be as easy as hooking up 2 wires to make it work.
All you need to find is the plastic part to the switch, that's what I would look into getting.
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it looks like some work was done to it. broken traces, and burned in. looks like the monitor came from a jack or better slot.
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Hard to say for sure, but those red wires added to the board on the crt could be a legit mod that was done sometime in the past. Sometimes companies that make displays will do something like this to make changes that are needed and they don't want to create a new circuit board.
Since the display is working except the red signal is missing then the display is mostly working. If you can connect it to another machine that would tell you if the red signal problem is with the display or if it is caused by your mpu board. Or you could connect another display to the mpu. But neither of these may be available to you if you don't have other parts.
Someone that works on displays, tv's, computer monitors, etc might be able to say how to determine if the red signal problem is because of the display, like by using a multimeter to check for the red signal voltage coming from the mpu and getting to the monitor, or something similar.
Usually the screen burn on the crt looks worse when the crt is turned off. When the machine is powered on the image of the game will often make the screen burn less noticeable. There isn't much you can do about the screen burn, if it is unacceptable you will have to replace the monitor, or you could try finding a replacement crt itself but that could be hard to do. Nowadays there are less and less crt's being made. But the internet is a big place, so you might find one out there somewhere that is used but still in decent shape. The crt should have a label with the mft name and part number for the crt. It might be easier to find a good replacement monitor instead of the crt itself.
There is also the option of possibly converting the machine to an LCD display.
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the board was cracked and the traces were broken someone did the repair.
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used a restorer on the monitor and got the colors back :dancing_2: :dancing_2: :dancing_2: :dancing_2:
now the last thing is to fix the MAX BET button.
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Nice picture.. It makes the job easy when you have the tool for the job. It too bad this company made such a special button assembly, instead of a universal setup like most other game machines.
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Monitor looks real good now!
Maybe you can look at the Pachislo sites ?
They may use the same buttons there.
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Rapid, I have a TDC (Takasago Distributing Company) PSL slot machine. Your machine and mine are vastly different, reels vs. video, EXCEPT the buttons. They're the same. Maybe you can find a button off an old TDC reel slot machine. I have seen some members with old TDC machines on here before. They may not recognize it as a Takasago, but might as a TDC. The reel slots were fairly common back in the 80's. Good luck.
Dave
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I've been looking at Pachislo no luck yet. i figured TDC reel machines would have the same buttons but i haven't seen one being parted out yet. i did move it to the MAX BET button so it doesn't really get used much. but my job is not done till it all works. :yes:
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I've been looking at Pachislo no luck yet. i figured TDC reel machines would have the same buttons but i haven't seen one being parted out yet. i did move it to the MAX BET button so it doesn't really get used much. but my job is not done till it all works. :yes:
Pachislo machines are not TDC machines. They are a later version. TDC was it's own company. I have a TDC Cherry Delight machine and I see Pachislo has a machine called the same thing. They may have bought them out or combined the companies. Maybe one of our vendors or members might have an old one stuck in a warehouse or garage. I'll keep an eye out too. I've seen members on here with them in the last 2-3 years. There will be one turn up.
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Here's a guy selling parts for a TDC slot machine, and he says he has many more parts for various machines. You could contact him thru this auction and ask about the button you need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TDC-Slot-Machine-Takasago-Distributing-Company-Seven-Segment-Light-Display-PSL-7-/252568913784?hash=item3ace47c778:g:YAYAAOSwoi1X8ybD (http://www.ebay.com/itm/TDC-Slot-Machine-Takasago-Distributing-Company-Seven-Segment-Light-Display-PSL-7-/252568913784?hash=item3ace47c778:g:YAYAAOSwoi1X8ybD)
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great minds think alike, I sent him a picture of the switch last week he has not gotten back to me yet.
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And I contacted him on E-Bay this morning. He's going to think he has something really special now.
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The E-Bayer contacted me this afternoon and She said she has a whole box of TDC stuff, but is in the middle of a move, and will let me know as soon as she comes across it. :cool_thumb_up:
Dave
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Made a short video
https://youtu.be/Cmb-C0-uAyM
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Looks great to me, that crt rejuvenator made a big difference. :cool_thumb_up:
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I had thought about having you contact Kristel or Steve at SlotRush.. I buy a bunch on my parts there. I just didn't think they would have your part, but I guess I shouldn't surprised, since they have had most everything I've asked for.. Great people to buy from. They are in the middle of moving into a larger warehouse. If they have the button, it shouldn't take them too long to find them.. You might want to pickup a couple spares, your shipping would be the same for 1 or 3.. Keep us posted, your game looks great.
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with nothing better to do i'm working on fixing the switch.
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and it works :applause: :applause: :applause: :applause: :applause:
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Ha! from Reply #25 about 8 days ago..... :wave:
Good job getting it to work!
Would it be possible to put in a standard style button? I see what looks like two wires for a light. The standard button uses a cherry switch. Maybe you could just swap out the broken one with a different cash out button?
I was thinking about that too. There are various sizes and shapes of pushbuttons available, there might be one that is close enough to work, especially if it was in a button position on the player panel that isn't used very much. His photo of the backside of the player panel showed that the pushbuttons have a little circuit board and he mentioned something about a magnet back there. So these pushbuttons might be some type of fancy thing, when you push the button a magnet moves and causes a magnetic switch to activate, similar to how a door or window security system switch works. Or the pushbutton may have an optical sensor and when you push down on the pushbutton a piece of plastic moves into position to block the light and the optical sensor activates. It looks like more circuitry than the typical switch we usually see on player pushbuttons.
For a payout or cashout switch any kind of momentary pushbutton could probably be made to work, just need to find one that fits the hole. And it might be possible to adapt or repair the broken pushbutton, the broken plastic might be able to get reformed or added to.
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before and after
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Attractive game, keep it or sell it??
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its a weird one i'm keeping it :yes:
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I've always liked the oddball machines. I like to see how others were built.
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***UPDATE****
Still working GREAT!!
:applause: :applause: :applause: :applause: