Mills Futurity key lost. Now what?

[Bruce G]

Hey everyone, I have a Mills Futurity slot that's locked and the key is lost.  I explained to the owner that the original keys are a "sidewinder" type and not easily replaced.  I found what I believe is either the Serial number or maybe date code stamped on the case, and another different number stamped on the steel banding at the rear of the case.  I have no idea if keys for this model were standardized or each uniquely keyed.  Have not contacted any local locksmiths to see if anyone is willing to try picking the lock.  I don't want to drill the original lock.  Any guidance is greatly appreciated

[shortrackskater]

Hello
One of our more knowledgable members should reply soon here!

In the meantime, you can try posting this on coinopcollectorforum.com - they're more tailored to antique slots.
Also you can contact Dave Berten through eBay. He had some major health issues but I believe everything's resolved now, I hope. https://www.ebay.com/str/thunderfivefive

That IS a "pickable" lock. Not easy, but possible.  I have a Vest Pocket lock with no key and I'm eventually going back to Youtube because there's a video showing that style lock - I just need to find it, and find the time! 

[Bruce G]

Thank you for your reply!  I'll give those suggestions a try. 

[63mini]

Bruce G,

 Very nice machine (a keeper at that!)  Does, it have the upper dial and does it work?

 As for the key...  It's next to impossible to find a matching replacement.  The serial number means nothing when it comes to the locks.  There are a few options.

 1. The obvious is to locate the original key.  You may show the previous owner a photo of a mills key to help locate it.
 2. Find a locksmith that can pick this type of lock.  They are not easily picked.
 3. Drill it. Which you really don't want to do.  Some have used a screwdriver and twisted the lock breaking the internal pins.  Either of these options trash the lock.
 4. I have heard of people laying the machine down and drilling out the carriage bolt heads that secure the wooden base to the bottom of the cabinet.  Then you just need to replace the long carriage bolts.

 Once you get it open you can have it re-keyed with a non-matching key.  There is a YouTube video to show how to do that.  Or, you can by a replacement lock with either matching or non-matching keys as the do come up on eBay.

[Bruce G]

Thank you for the ideas - I like the carriage bolt solution and will look into that one.  I HATE ruining old locks, ans will do my best to get this open without resorting to destructive measures.  I have indeed sent a photo of a sidewinder Duo key to the owner, and she is searching for the key.  Fingers crossed.  The machine has been jammed since 1978, so waiting a bit longer to see if she can find the key is not such a big deal.  The futurity dial has been replaced by a mirror, as I have seen done on other machines.  I'm anticipating that I will find all of that feature missing from the machine. 

Bruce   

[63mini]

Bruce G,

 Technically, the key is not a "Duo".  The Duo locks were used on different machines.  I have attached a photo of a Mills key just for reference.

 Also, if you do go the removal of the carriage bolts route.  Keep in mind that when you lay the machine down the coins inside will shift.  This will probably cause them to turn sideways in the coin chute and/or the slides causing a jam and the game will not payout when put back into service.  Those coins may also go into the mech so, you will need to do a complete visual to remove them.

 Hopefully, when you open it up you will find a dial as that will greatly help the value of your machine.

[Bruce G]

OOPS Sorry - I had a brain fart on the lock brand.    She responded, saying she has nothing even close.  So I'm going to either get a locksmith, or look at the other ways mentioned.  And thanks again for the tips - I'll update here on what I find.  Yes, hopefully the meter is still in place, but I'm doubtful. 

[Bruce G]

Bruce G,I have heard of people laying the machine down and drilling out the carriage bolt heads that secure the wooden base to the bottom of the cabinet.  Then you just need to replace the long carriage bolts.

So I drilled out the four ( 4) carriage bolt heads on the base successfully.  These run upward and inside the locked machine.  The base is still firmly attached to the sides, and I can't detect any movement of the bottom panel after having drilled these bolts out.  There are two smaller carriage bolts that I didn't drill, and I've no idea on what part of the machine these are attached to.  There are also two nails that appear to be 8 penny, driven into the bottom face of the base.  I'm guessing that these nails helped to locate a pair of vertical wood supports that are fixed to the inside base.  But having never seen inside this machine - I really have no idea.  I'm assuming that the bottom panel is pinned to the sides of the case with 1/4" wooden dowels, and this is why the base is still firmly bonded to the cabinet.  I don't want to do any damage in trying to get this thing open.  Can anyone give me some insight on how the cabinet is constructed?  Thanks in advance.  Bruce

[63mini]

Bruce G,

  The two-carriage bolts that you did not drill are for the handle pump.  You should not need to drill those.  The sides and base are tongue and groove (no dowels).  They may be stuck due to years of grime.  You may need to gently tap the base with a rubber mallet to get it to start moving.  There also may be two small nails or flat head screws in the bottom.  These would hold the coinbox divider in place.

  I will post another reply later showing a base and location of some of the mounting.  Also, I believe the nails you mention are the ones that hold the base slats together.  Can you post a photo of the base?

[Bruce G]

Thanks again for your willingness to help.  I have added a couple arrows on the pic of the bottom side showing the two nails.  I left the screws for the payout cup in place, assuming that this could just remain attached to the base.  I can remove if needed.   There are two truss / binding rods that pass through the joinery on the bass boards to bind them.   

[63mini]

BruceG,

 Attached is a photo of a Mills Futurity that I stole from the internet.  This will give you an idea of what you are dealing with.

 The red arrows show the bolts where the 4 carriage bolts you drilled are located.

 The blue arrows show the two screws going thru the base plate. These hold the wooden coin box divider in place from the top side.  The two nails you show hold it from the bottom.  Those nails will need to be removed.

 The yellow arrow shows the handle pump.  That is held into place by the two carriage bolts that you did not drill.  I believe you will have enough movement in the linkage, and you should not have to remove those carriage bolts.

 You may need to loosen or remove the two screws for the payout cups to allow more movement in the base.

 Once the base is loose you really only move the back side of the base down 1/2-3/4" down and the door should come out of the channel.  The next issue may be the back door will stay attached to the bonnet.  The back door lock does go thru the bonnet so, you may need to carefully manipulate that as one piece.

  The last photo is of a Mills Hi Top base I had to redo because of extensive damage.  It is not the same as yours, but it shows the groove you are dealing with.
 

[Bruce G]

Again, Thank you so much for the help.  This gives me a lot to go on.  I'll let you know how it goes for me. 


Bruce

[Bruce G]

SUCCESS!!!

Thank you SO MUCH for the help.  I used a long plank of ash to get a good purchase on the bottom lip of the base boards.  I carefully tapped it a bit at a time.  The old hide glue let go without ruining the joinery.  That was the easy part.

Getting the lock removed form the rear door was a REAL challenge.  I had to use a 2 foot screwdriver to reach in and pry the screw guard off of the lock.  Then trying to reach in to unscrew the two 1/4" round head screws attaching the lock to the rear door......  THAT was tough.  Ended up turning the machine on it's top to make accessing it more manageable. I had someone with skinny arms reach inside the back of the machine while I held the rear door a few inches open at the bottom.  We used a 90 degree "YANKEE" ratcheting screwdriver to remove the screws.  Took forever.  But it's all apart now.  And, unfortunately no meter components are still in place.  But hey, it's open! 

[63mini]

Bruce G,

 Awesome!!! Good Job!    Your patience paid off.  Now you have a combination slot machine and puzzle!    Just be careful moving it around now as there is not a lot of support structure and the tabs on the front casting could easy break if the cabinet twists.

 Here is the next step for the lock.

 https://www.youtube.com/embed/tiEe4fr5X7g

 One last thing.  Since those carriage bolts are removed you really do not have anything to support / secure the mech and shelf except the one or two screw going into the front casting.