Help I.D. Bally Slot Machine

[scottf11961]

Hello everyone.  I was given an old Bally that's currently not working at all, and not sure exactly what model I have, nor how to reset it ( if chips are needed or not).

Another question would be can I upgrade the CRT to LCD

Thanks for any help

[Sunrise Side]

Open the door and take a picture of it turned on. Probably a V7000 or V7200 model. Good idea to replace the power module in the power supply located in the bottom part of the cabinet. Normal wear item. You might be able to get a drop in LCD monitor from Spin inc.. Around $600 -$700. Or you can buy a point of sale touchscreen monitor on Ebay for $100 - $150 and change the mains to work with it. The bill acceptor can be updated to accept new $5, $10, $20, $50. It's a robust machine and has 10 games that can be changed easily. The MPU may need a battery change which you will need a P-10 clear/debug chip to reset it. It's worth investing into it in my opinion.

[scottf11961]

$600-700 sounds like alot! I picked up a touchscreen for my igame from Spin @ $125. It looks like it's getting power.  The BV cycles,  I tested the hopper, and it spins with button pressed, but the monitor is dead. (I did replace the battery on the board since those pictures.)

[Sunrise Side]

Most likely needs monitor repaired or replaced. Common problem.

[scottf11961]

What model is this, and how do I reset it (after addressing the monitor issue)

[Badbaud]

here is what I have collected

[scottf11961]

Thanks. I'll print that out and put it with the machine.  If the monitor is that much,  I can't see fixing it



  Anyone repair CRTs?

[Badbaud]

KLAR does

[kcirrick]

On my V7200 Game Maker, on the outside on the right side (as the player sits facing the machine) there is a small metal plate attached that shows all the info as to model, serial number etc.
This appears to be a V7000 with a 14 inch screen.

You will definitely need a clear chip in order to configure the machine, (there’s a sticky with a video I made several years ago showing how to configure the Game Maker from start to end), but first you must get your monitor working.  Ensure it is correctly seated with a good connection.  Is there any indication that it is coming on at all even though it is dark?  I no longer have my Game Maker CRT’s so I can’t verify, but no doubt there are adjustments for brightness, contrast, color and sharpness back there somewhere.  (The CRT on my Revenge from Mars pinball machine has those.)  If the CRT is powered up but not on then possible a cap kit could be used to fix it.  This is something I have never done, but is fairly common and others might be able to help.  Other options, assuming the CRT is actually bad, are to hunt up a replacement CRT or to replace it with an LCD.  Unfortunately, a brand new touch screen LCD with chassis and cable is going to be about $560 before tax and shipping. 

I went through this several years ago.  My CRT worked intermittently and then not at all so I bit the bullet and bought an LCD replacement.  It hurt my wallet, but I’ve enjoyed my Game Maker(s) for years.

[scottf11961]

Thanks for the input! I don't see any signs of life in it. I even powered up in the dark to see if I'd see a slight light in it, but nada. I did try the brightness and picture settings on top, but no change. I was told I could buy a point of sale lcd and convert it, but that's way above my expertise. Nor would I know what a cap kit even looks like. I only have one other machine that had a crt, (an igame) and Spin had a plug and play lcd for $125. I simply slid out the old, slid in the new, and it works perfect. That's the most I've done with CRTs.
 I did pull it from the machine. It's very dusty and dirty. I cleaned it up a bit, and re-seated some connections, but no help.  Not really sure where to go from here

[kcirrick]

I am a HUGE fan of electronics cleaner when - well - when cleaning up electronics and connections.  Always with power off of course. 
I've been researching trying to find an answer here, but so far haven't come up with much.  I can pull out boards and replace diodes, IC chips, transistors, switches or whatever on my pinball machines with ease, but I never work on monitors much. Like I said before, when my monitor went out I bit the bullet and spent the $$ on the LCD monitor.
One think we haven't mentioned, isn't there a typical glass fuse about an inch long back there somewhere?  You've removed and checked it?
You've removed cleaned and reseated the neck board?
Do you have a meter to carefully check if the monitor's connection inside the machine has power when you turn it on?  (Without the monitor installed.)
I don't want to suggest hunting down a cap kit or anything because that would just be throwing money at the problem without knowing whether it would fix it.
I'll keep checking back on progress and will keep digging for possible solutions.

[kcirrick]

I've not been able to find much, but here are several links to archived threads that might give you some direction.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=23073.0
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=12883.0
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1414.0

From the gaming links near the bottom of the NLG home page.  Arcade Repair Tips
https://www.arcaderepairtips.com/2012/05/14/troubleshooting-games-that-are-playing-blind/

Other possible useful info I picked up from the net:
The flyback transformer, or line output transformer (LOPT), is found in any device using a cathode ray tube display, such a televisions, monitors, and oscilloscopes.

The flyback transformer is usually wound on a rectangular ferrite core with a small air gap between the two halves. This air gap is provided as a means of magnetic energy storage, as the flyback transformer behaves more like an inductor than a normal transformer. The windings are located in one or more potted structures mounted on the core.

The name 'flyback' comes from the fact that the voltage in the secondary winding is generated by the magnetic field collapsing while the electron beam "flies back" to the other side of the screen for the next horizontal sweep. The name flyback also quite correctly implies what you will do if you touch the high voltage lead that goes to the CRT anode without discharging it first.

The flyback transformer's basic function is to generate the high voltage needed to fire the electron beam inside a CRT. However, in modern television sets and monitors, additional primary windings allow it to also generate the lower voltages needed for the CRT's filaments. It may serve as the step down transformer in the set's switching power supply, to step down (and up) the incoming 100, 120, or 240 volts DC from the rectifier. The high voltage for the CRT is generated in a separate secondary winding, which is made of many turns of extremely fine wire. This may be in a separate potted enclosure from the primary.

Due to the extremely high voltages (up to 50 Kv!) generated by the flyback's secondary, any failure of the insulation causes arcing and carbonization of the epoxy filling, leading to a short circuit in the secondary winding. Thus, flyback transformers are one of the more commonly replaced items during repair of televisions and monitors.



Of course, if you're going to be messing back there it might be wise to discharge the CRT.

CRTs, or Cathode Ray Tubes, operate at very high voltages (some in the range of +50,000VDC). This voltage is required for the CRT to form a picture on the screen of your monitor. Even with the power turned off and the plug removed from the wall outlet, the CRT can retain these high voltages for a while.
When working on a monitor or television, you will need to avoid the heavy wire going to the side of the CRT. This is the wire that supplies the high voltage from the flyback transformer to the CRT. It is generally suggested that you discharge the voltage before working on the monitor or TV. Note that you must have the unit unplugged from the wall outlet.

To discharge the CRT:
Either purchase a shorting probe or make one. If this is not an option, use two well-insulated screwdrivers.
If using a probe, connect the wire and clip to the metal chassis surrounding the CRT. If using screwdrivers, place the end on one screwdriver on the metal chassis surrounding the fromt of the tube.
NOTE: Make absolutely sure that you are not touching any metal parts during the next steps.
If using screwdrivers, slip the end of the other screwdriver under the protective rubber grommet on the side of the CRT, where the high-voltage wire is attached to the tube.
Note: When you discharge the tube, there may be a very bright flash and a loud snapping noise. Try not to look at the point where the flash will appear. Also, be aware of the snapping noise, as it may cause you to jump.
Now, either slip the end of the shorting probe under the rubber grommet or cross the two screwdrivers together to create a path for the electricity to arc across.
Remove the screwdrivers or probe.
Note that this just removes the high voltage at the CRT. There can still be large voltages on the motherboard in the CRT, especially around the large filter capacitors. Also, avoid the area around the fuses.


It's highly possible that you will need to replace capacitors and/or diodes which will require some soldering skills.  The question is, how much money do you want to put into the machine to get it working?  Capacitors and diodes are not expensive, but if that doesn't resolve the issue?  It depends on how badly you want to get the machine working and thinking about the years of entertainment you will get out of it once you do get it working.  I enjoyed my upright Game Maker for about ten years when the CRT went out about four years ago.  Even though I had since bought a slant top Game Maker (with an LCD already installed), I wanted to continue enjoying the upright so I spent the money on the LCD.  It got expensive because I mistakenly bought a 15 inch LCD when I needed a 17 inch one.  By the time I got around to installing it and discovered my mistake it was too late to return it and I had to shell out for the larger monitor.     In the end, it was worth it to me because I enjoy my GM machines (along with the other stuff in my game room).  I understand that you just have to decide whether you want to spend the money or if you can afford to spend it, but I hope that one way or another you are able to get it working. 

Be sure to share if you have any breakthroughs. 

[Chris-socal]

That looks like s Tatung monitor and if you send the board to KLar they can fix it, well worth it in my opinion, those monitors have good pictures.

[kcirrick]

I didn't realize KLAR worked on Tatung monitors, but I feel the cost may be an issue here.  I have the impression that the cost of the repair as well as the cost of packing and shipping that heavy monitor back and forth might be more than scott wants to spend so I've been trying to come up with DIY solutions.  Unfortunately, I'm no expert on working on monitors and so am not much help. 

[scottf11961]

Can't thank you guys enough.  I have a few other machines, so my soldering skills definitely have improved,  BUT, I don't know what needs to be changed..nor do I know how to test it. This is only my second with a CRT. The first one (pictured)  I purchased from an auction.  It had a dead crt monitor.  Well, semi dead. The good people at Spin sold me a plug and play monitor for $125 with $40 shipping. Can't get any simpler.  Slide out, slide in. A few different people have told me to fix the CRT. .But the cost is a factor..and my fear is fixing or replacing and finding it also has other issues. I did reach out to KLAR, but have not heard back.  Not sure if I trust myself to remove the board and send it to them, .but it's a do-able cost effective solution.  I do want to keep it

[Chris-socal]

Just to clarify, you don’t send the entire monitor for repair, just the board. Those do have touch screen so removing the board can take 10-15 minutes. I have put cap kits in several of those and they work great. Those Tatungs have rich colors and a great picture.
I completely understand if someone wants to upgrade to LCD though. Its one and done.

Chris

[scottf11961]

I'm not experienced enough to replace the caps. .nor do I even know what the caps are. I can solder pretty good. If I fhave to solder to loosen and replace, I can, just don't know what I'd be replacing.  I'm willing to try anything

[kcirrick]

Caps is just short for capacitors.  Sometimes you can tell if one is bad if the top is misshapen or bulged up, but often that's not the case.   I'm with you when it comes to recapping Scott.  I've never done it either, but would be willing to give it a shot.  I was pretty much terrified I would destroy it he first time I took a soldering iron to the mother board of one of my pinball machines. 

You can use your multimeter to test capacitors.  The capacitors should have their values stamped on them somewhere.  Just set your meter to capacitance (C) and touch the leads to the capacitors leads.  If the value you get is significantly lower that what's expected then the capacitor is likely bad.  Be wary of course.  You know capacitors can hold a charge that could zap you - including that CRT.

I know it's difficult to do with the CRT installed, but have you been able to verify if power is getting to it at all?  Power at the connector or the fuse?  Any indication of a glow or warmth on the neck of the tube?  If KLAR is willing to take a look at the board, be sure to take pictures before you remove the board to make reinstallation easier.