New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Badbaud on July 08, 2017, 07:40:36 PM
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Got my first 16MHz S+ board in for repair.
I fixed the problem and put it on my tester for confirmation.
I was able to clear the board and set up the denomination and enable the bill validator.
I played it for about 10 reel spins and got some credits and played them, was also able to cash out credits.
Then the game would spin the first reel and lock in but the next two reels would do a lazy spin and a 1 would show up on the display.
That would not clear unless I did a whole new clear procedure and set denom procedure.
Can a 16 MHz board work on a standard S+ tester?
Should I have simply cleared and set up the board and sent it back to the customer?
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Did it have the customer's game eproms in it, or did you have to install your game eproms? I think I heard or read that game eproms made for 10mhz boards will not work properly if installed into 16mhz boards - but I could be wrong about this.
Sometimes I know just enough to be dangerous... :garfield:
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The game chips for a 16mhz board are different as they include volume control.
There is no wheel/pot on a 16mhz board to control volume.
The reel chips need to be burnt onto faster Eproms but all the games are compatible. No change to the chip numbers.
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I used the customers SP and SS chips.
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Is there a listing for that error code of "1" that appears on the display when the #2 and #3 reels do their slow spin?
Does the manual or documentation for the S+ tester mention what versions of mpu it covers? It may not if it is one of the earlier testers since the 10mhz board was all there was for a while. Maybe there was some kind of update or mod that had to get added to it back when the 16mhz boards were brought out?
Not sure why it would not work correctly on the tester since from what I understand you can install either a 10mhz or a 16mhz board into any S+ machine and it will work ok with the rest of the machine (reels, pushbuttons, progressive boards, etc).
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Time to dig out the scope, maybe it is a reel voltage problem.
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Do you have another 16mhz board or access to one that you can try on the tester to prove whether it is a compatibility problem or not? Maybe this customer 16mhz board has a second problem?
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Ya, I have a whole case of them. I'll try that first.
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Working on Sunday used to be double-time for me, but not anymore now that I retired.
At least you are inside where there is some a/c (hopefully). :wave:
Seems kinda odd you wouldn't have seen some 16mhz boards by now, maybe they are more reliable than the 10mhz boards. Or there are just a ton more of the 10mhz boards out there.
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I had been converting them to 10MHz but I had kicked a case of them in a corner some where.
All internet work is done at home as the owner is to cheap to pay for it at the shop.
Heck the shop has one 4 way outlet for power so I survive with a very long extension cord I drag around.
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You could probably hot spot off your phone for next to. O thing.
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I have a flip phone. No plans to upgrade. Also still running XP and repairing the older machines like Bally 5000 and IGT Fortune 1.
I leave the newer machines for those kids in their early 50's.
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I have a flip phone. No plans to upgrade. Also still running XP and repairing the older machines like Bally 5000 and IGT Fortune 1.
I leave the newer machines for those kids in their early 50's.
Ha! I thought I was the last person in America with a flip phone and Windows XP ! :propeller:
I love the small size of the flip phone, I just use it for phone calls.
But when I have it out my neices & nephews just grin and shake their head.
If I want to do internet I have other ways - tablet, desktop, laptop.
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.....I had been converting them to 10MHz but I had kicked a case of them in a corner some where......
Is that just a clock change to the cpu chip, or is other mod needed? Do you do it to get rid of the infamous noise in sound output or other reason?
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It's in my notes at the shop, I'll dig it out and send you a copy.
Thought I posted it here at one time.
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It's in my notes at the shop, I'll dig it out and send you a copy.
Thought I posted it here at one time.
Thanks! I can search for the post first if you want, know that you are busy. Was it on this site or the old NLG site that you posted it?
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I'd be interested in how you do the change.. I have 1 or 2 16MHz boards here...
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Badbaud, I found this on the old site, is this the information you are referring to?
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=printpage;topic=16508.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=printpage;topic=16508.0)
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Title: Re: IGT S+ 10mhz vs 16 mhz - ID BOARD
Post by: badbaud on January 15, 2012, 03:06:00 PM
Barry,
How to convert a (SX main game chip) 16MHz board with the small sound chip into a standard board that can use any SP game chip.
Change the 16MHz crystal to a 10MHz (parallel resonant 22Pf) crystal.
Solder in a 1K 1/4 watt resistor at R113 and a .33uF cap at C54
Add a 10K volume control
Remove the YM2413 sound chip and add a 28 pin IC socket and a AY38912 sound chip at pads around the YM2413 sound chip location.
Remove jumper E15
Now you can use standard SP chips on the board.
Title: Re: IGT S+ 10mhz vs 16 mhz - ID BOARD
Post by: stayouttadabunker on January 15, 2012, 04:28:50 PM
Quote from: badbaud on January 15, 2012, 03:06:00 PM
That's great bench level info badbaud!
I have never heard of SP chips that are used on 16MHz referred to as "SX" chips.
Did IGT call those chips that?
I'm NOT at all knocking anything you've said, in fact, it's just something I've have never come across before -
I'm wondering if by chance could the "SX" term you've used, possibly be a typo?
If not, where did you hear/get that term from?
I'm always learning something new about my favorite IGT platforrm - the S+ :89-
Thanks!
Title: Re: IGT S+ 10mhz vs 16 mhz - ID BOARD
Post by: badbaud on January 15, 2012, 09:59:56 PM
You also need to add the 8 position DIP switch to select sound options for the AY3-8912 sound chip.
The SX chips labels were printed by IGT and have their (c) on them.
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Yes that is it.
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Maybe some one can redact it and put it on NLG as a sticky.
Kevin?
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Maybe some one can redact it and put it on NLG as a sticky.
Kevin?
That's a good idea, but the sticky note would need an explanation of why the conversion is something good to do. Is it to eliminate the sound noise problem that 16mhz boards have, or some other reason?
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Since you can pick up 10mhz for around $20 in flea bay - it sounds like you have > $20 parts involved in the conversion and that's only if your value your time at zero.
For myself I would probably fry 3 boards for every 1 in success.
The 16mhz boards have the hum but you can cancel that out by putting a filter inline with the speaker.
These are made of a resistor and a capacitor. If your into audio these are called a cross over - you are basically cutting out any sound not in a certain range.
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I'm a board tech, I did it just to see if I could. Gained a lot of insight on how the audio section is processed.
BTW on that bad 16MHz board it was a bad filter cap in the reel drive power supply.
Replaced the cap and it works fine.
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Impressive to say the least in this world of swap-tronics you have a skill that will shurly be missed.