New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: jvela58 on January 18, 2021, 09:41:47 PM
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Hello all,
I have an IGT S plus Red White and Blue double sevens slot. When I turn it on the reels do not move. I have replaced the 8A fuse. It had a 6A that was blown. I could not find an 8A so I put in a 7.5A. It was blown both times that I powered it up. Any suggestions? Here are some pics of the inside. I noticed that there were two AC plugs in the inside and an orange stain on the side.
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In the photo below, you will see two green arrows I drew pointing at the two orange wires on the motherboard power connector.
That is NOT an OEM Molex connector housing....I believe that red one is made by Tyco.
In that Tyco connector, the wires get pushed in the top end of the pins....they work by cutting into the vinyl protective wire cover contacting into the inside bare copper wires.
With the power OFF, take a small flat screwdriver and press the two orange wires a little bit further into the the top of those pin contacts.
What we're talking about is only about 1mm-2mm deeper...
In the photo, the orange wires do not appear to be fully depressed into there...the pins might be only contacting part of the inside copper strands, if any.
After you've pressed in the wires a bit more, turn ON the power switch on the machine.
If you don't feel any stiffness of the reel baskets or they do not turn, then I'd order an OEM power harness from a member named KEN. who has some for sale....see link...>>>http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=29640.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=29640.0)
No matter what, that power harness needs replacing...the LAST thing you want is any of those live wires popping out and grounding out on metal inside a metal cabinet!
I'm suspecting some other mod someone has done since we've spotted this one from your very good photos.
Oh ...when replacing fuses, use quick blow fuses....you might need to get a few at the hardware store until we find the short that's blowing your fuses.
I'd like to see photos of the top box candle wiring too...a short up there from someone messing with wiring an cause problems as well as the center light on the reel glass display.
I haven't even begun because there may something shorting out inside the power supply box too.
The cover comes off pretty easy though....just undo the single Philips screw on the left side of the box near center....undo the wall plug first before going in there.
Take a good clear photo of the guts in there...we'll be able to tell you if anything is shorted.
Oh the orange goo sliding down from under the slot handle mech? That's some junky rubber stop IGT put in there that likes to melt.
There's a topic on that from just a couple of weeks ago....it's no biggie...unless something is shorted up in there?
That plug on top of the power supply with a black, green and white wires?
The one in the far right hand corner.
Someone made a makeshift 115VAC service outlet...remove that plug from there with the plug out of the wall outlet....it's NOT needed and it's possible there's a short there too.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Thanks! I will check those issues out and let you know. I contacted Ken to order the OEM power harness.
Appreciate all your help!
John
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I ordered a new harness. The 8A fuse kept blowing when I turned on the machine.
I checked all the wiring for any shorts and they all seem ok. Here are some pictures of the power supply and candle wiring.
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okay...the middle fuse on the PS box is the 8A fuse.
That's for a lot of things but when it blows, it's indicative of the reel glass display LED lights, the candle light, and the reels will feel loose.
There's more things it runs power to, but the main suspect could be a short along those lines.
I'm wondering...can you take out the topbox glass and unplug the candle harness connector up in there?
It will be a small square-ish looking connector that has 4-pins....red, yellow and black. in your last photo.If the candle is shorted, you need to take it apart and see what's wrong inside.A shorted candle can blow the 8A fuse.Once disconnected, throw in a new 8A fuse and turn on the power.Keep fingers crossed and hope the fuse doesn't blow...lol
The candle is one of the few things that wont hurt if you unplug or plug it in "live", but I don't want you to get a shock...lol
If the candle is working....leave it alone...something else is shorted.
If the candle is okay, then disconnect the reel glass display plugs.
They are on the bottom of the board at two different points.
There's a tiny lever on the middle of the connector housing that needs to be depressed to release a plastic latch as you wiggle off the housing body.
Try not to pull on the wires...you will just have more problems....grasp only the plastic body.
Once you take them off, turn on the power with a new 8A fuse.
What we're doing here is trying to see if the display board has a short.
We want to systematically disconnect various components and turn on the power afterwards to see if the fuse blows.
That's why I asked you to get some fuses...lol
It's not good to plug in electrical components with the power switch ON because then you're risking blowing out other stuff and never finding the short in the first place.
This way, all we do is blow a few fuses...no big deal.
I couldn't find anything wrong with your power supply and I'm glad you removed that service outlet.
I was hoping maybe you'd find a loose coin or two in there besides dust.
Look on the motherboard circuit board that's on the floor...the ablong one the main MPU slides down into.
See if there's any metal laying around shorting out something.
Also, with the power OFF, pull out the MPU and check thoroughly for anything burnt...maybe traces melted...check the motherboard on the floor too really good.
Do you have a multimeter?
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I disconnected the candle. The fuse still blew. Where are the reel glass display plugs located? I also checked the pc board below the Main board and it looked ok. I also took out the main board. There was only one component that seemed burnt. I will post a pic. When I turn on the machine I hear a humm. it's not to loud.
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That's the battery and it's starting to leak. You'll need to replace it with a new one and clean up any corrosion on the MPU board. Also inspect the circuit traces and components near it to make sure nothing else has been damaged.
That battery is not the cause of your fuse blowing though. I'd remove the power connector from the motherboard (the one you are going to replace) and turn it on. If the fuse doesn't blow you'll know the problem isn't in the power supply itself. If it doesn't I'd remove the motherboard and check for loose coins under it and wait for the new power cable to arrive before going any further. I've never seen one like that before and it's hard to say if it's wired correctly or not.
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remove the cpu board and turn it on, if the fuse doesn't blow, then the problem is on your cpu board, usuallt the diode for +VB.
see what happens!
Jim
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Amazing the help you get when you post a few pictures eh? Lol
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Thanks for your help everyone!
I have removed the motherboard and checked, but there were no coins or metal pieces under it. I will slide out the cpu board and check to see if the fuse blows. I have to get more fuses. I couldn't find any 8A so I'm using 7.5A
One other thing, where are the reel glass display plugs located?
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I have removed each cable from the motherboard and its the cpu that's blowing the fuse. I checked the battery and there is 0 volts on it.
So that's where I stand right now. Suggestions? Where is the +VB?
Thanks!
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The motherboard (small fixed board) that the MPU (board in the removeable tray) has a 4 wire molex down the middle. This provides power to the reels and denomination light.
If you have the MPU plugged in and the 4 wire molex removed do you still blow the fuse ?
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I did a test on all the cables going to the mother board. I removed the cpu before doing this. The cable that is causing the fuse to blow is the one to the right at the back of where the cpu goes. I’ll post a picture. This cable goes to the front of the unit to the buttons, coin comparitor etc.
Suggestions?
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Pull all the plugs out and remove the motherboard.
Then look closely...I mean closely with a magnifying instrument and look for burned out circuit traces.
You may need another motherboard or if good with and multimeter to find broken traces, solder some small 24-28 gauge wires between broken traces.
Also, while thoroughly and completely inspecting the motherboard, check ALL the pins for a bent pin....
Something is touching and shorted out in that area...
Whether the short is on the motherboard or the harness, wiring depends on how thorough your inspection is.
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Good Morning!, I have replaced the harness from the power supply to the mother board with the one that you suggested. With the CPU removed, I have turned on the unit with each of the top three harnesses removed and connecting back individually, checking each one and the fuse did not blow. I put the CPU back on and the fuse did not blow. When I turn on the machine, the reels are firm. I connected the candle back. The fuse does not blow, but it gets hot. I replaced the starter and T8 light in the front panel, but it does not turn on.
Fixed tiny font issue
~moderator
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The starter could be shorted inside of it...I got shocked once trying to remove a starter....
The plastic on the bottom of the starter that you can't see in the starter socket broke in half as I was twisting it to try to get it out of the socket.
Inside, the wires touched each other and I was thrown across the room.
I had become the quickest ground source because my left hand was on top of the metal door while trying to undo the ballast with my right hand.
Never, ever try to undo a starter ballast while the power is on....or undo a fluorescent lamp tube either.
Replace that ballast as soon as possible...don't even think of putting it back in.
They are cheap to replace from any hardware store.
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Well I turned on the slot without the Hopper and MPU connected. The fuse gets hot but it doesn't blow. Then I connected the hopper back and the fuse doesn't blow and connected the MPU and it doesn't blow, but the 8A fuse still gets vey hot. When I turned on the machine I feel the reels get stiff and feel a vibration on them, each one of them.
Any more suggestions???
Thanks in advance for all your advice and help.
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Are you using the right fuses?
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I am using 8A 250V quick blow fuses for the middle bus, The top and bottom busses are 6A and I've checked them and they do not get hot. When I turn on the slot, after the Bill Acceptor powers up then the reels move very slightly and are stiff. I touched the reel and can feel a vibration.
Thanks for your help.
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ok....when you close the door, watch the [Coins Played] display....
Note what number is displayed.
When you close the door, that display should go out for a couple of seconds and come back on.
This will tell you if the door optics are working correctly without trying to do it by the tests.
Then insert a quarter and see if it gets accepted.
If the lamp isn't burned out, the "Coin Accepted" lamp should light up...while at the same moment turning off the "Insert Coins" lamp.
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Stiff reels are a good sign that your slot is about ready to accept and play.
Per Marks last post lets see if there are any errors on the display and go from there.
The add on question to this is do you have a sample coin in the coin comparator.
If you don't then no coin will be accepted.
The coin comparator will be in the door labled CC-16 (quarters and smaller) or CC-33 (dollar tokens and larger).
There is a sliding portion of the CC-16 that the quarter would go behind.
Typically the sellers of machines take the sample coin out - after all its money in their pocket.
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So I have some questions -
Title of post is reels don't spin when powering up
1st information is that middle 8A fuse blows.
Work is done, some extra mods are removed, power cable ordered, some wires need pressed into a connector.
More work done - power cable replaced. the fuse gets hot. replaced the starter and T8 light in the front panel, but it does not turn on. ( assume fuse does not blow, I would remove the starter and lamp until you get the machine working, especially if they are not working )
Post before this work is done - "I did a test on all the cables going to the mother board. I removed the cpu before doing this. The cable that is causing the fuse to blow is the one to the right at the back of where the cpu goes."
Seems to me this is the cause of the fuse blowing? Motherboard connector J3, which feeds connector J200 to the front panel. I must then assume with this connector unplugged the machine is powered up, the reels get firm but do not spin.
With that said - I looked at the picture of the main board - can't enlarge with much clarity but I believe I am seeing some bad/heated resistors in the upper left quadrant of the picture around U13 and U14.
Can you take a picture of that quadrant and post that shows more detail?
If this shows damaged parts ( near U13 & U14) they control the serial data and clock which is needed to run the front panel, displays and the reels.
Anyway, just my 2 cents.
Tony
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Here is a pic of the MPU.
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Ok here’s the latest. I replaced the battery. Put the MPU back in, started the machine. Went through the start up and gave me an error 61-1. I reset the key and the reels started up. Would not accept the coins. I turned off the machine because I smelled a burning smell. The 8A fuse was hot but did not blow. The new wire harness from the power supply to the motherboard was warm and the wiring to the bet one credit button (which I replaced- new button/switch) was warm. Any more suggestions?
Thanks!
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I told you...something is burning up...pull out the MPU and smell that away from the machine.
Smell the motherboard on the floor....pinpoint where the burning coming from.
Smell the power supply box with the cover off and power off.
Sometimes you need the nose of a bloodhound...haha
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Thanks for pic, board looks good.
Reels spun - that's good.
Fuse and power cable warm not so good.
You said the connector on the motherboard (J3 I believe from what I good find) was causing the fuse to blow. Sounds like now the fuse gets warm, but not blowing.
The bet one credit wires get warm. That makes some sense in that the original fuse blowing problem was caused by something in the door (panel).
Looks to me you need to isolate what is causing the warm fuse problem (current problem/warm wires and fuse)
I would disconnect the bet one button wires and see if that helps reduce the warm fuse/wires. If so, see what may be wrong there. The lamps in the buttons do produce some heat but if it seems like too much - could be wrong bulb as many different wattage ratings are available. The wires should not get any warmer on that button than any other button that is lit on the machine. ( Just a note if you have installed LED's be careful as I have purchased some 12V for cars and they are not electrically the same as the ones that would go in the lamp holders, I can explain that later if needed )
If the bet one does not improve the fuse warm problem, systematically disconnect the devices connected to the front panel to see what may be causing the problem. If you have downloaded the prints/schematics, you can see which devices to disconnect. Basically the devices that would pull current are - the coin mechanism, the lamps in the buttons the speaker - in that order. Any of these disconnected the machine would still initialize and home the reels.
Once you get the warm fuse problem addressed you can setup the machine and deal with the 61-1 code. I would not worry about that at this time.
Tony
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The spinning reels after a 61-1 a good sign.
Does it show that its ready for a coin in ??
Most importantly Do you have a coin in the comparator ? - no sample coin, no credit, no play !
Below the comparitor there is a coin in optic that has a little micro button on it.
You can press that to put on a test credit or so... and then see if the game plays - Yes this is with the door open.
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I turned on the machine, DBV spins, reels spin, then it gave me a 3300 error. The credits, coin in, bet and one displays went random. The fuse got very hot and I could smell something in the machine. I checked the harnesses to the change, bet one and cash/credit and they all appear good, no burned or frayed wires. How would I remove the plastic panel and pc board to get better access to the buttons? I also ordered another CC-16D 100 coin comparitor. BTW I also replaced all the button switches with new ones.
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let me see one of the bulbs in the button deck...I'll betcha it's the wrong ones that short everything out.
Pull out the "Bet One Credit" lamp and see if there's wires running to both sides of the wedge lamp.
If so, the lamps are the wrong kind as Trisail said.
Jay asked you if you have a coin in the coin comparitor.
If so, is it the same type of coin that you're dropping thru the slot?
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I traced the wiring from the 8amp fuse. the fuse is actually protecting the 7vac circuit, the fuse is in line with the 7vac return. the only items that J-3 supplies with a voltage is the four button lamps and the door bezel lamps. And it is 7vac.
your new buttons/ lamps have to be compatible with 7vac, 555 bulb, or a 6volt LED, ANYTHING else could be drawing higher current and causing the fuse to get warm. you have to google 555, 259 bulbs, it will give the operating current of the bulb, you might have 658 bulbs in there , used on S-2000 machines and run on 13 vdc.
I am pretty sure this is your problem.
the two wires that should be getting warm on the power connector to the motherboard would be pin 5 solid green wire and pin 6 solid blue wire.
hope this helps
Jim
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Just a quick update -
I helped last night to get his machine working a bit better.
Main problem with the fuse getting hot - Max Bet switch and lamp wired wrong. Straightened that out and fuse issue is corrected.
That left the machine with what appears to be a main door optic problem, machine does not see door closed. He was able to step through the diagnostic settings and the reset key and self test buttons are working as are the displays. Looks like the coin comparator is bad and not working, sample coin is installed, no LED.
The rest of the machine - hopper works, all switches work but the Max Bet lamp did not light, reels home and step through tests OK. Bill validator cycles, not tested for bills. Tower lamps work. He has a coin comparator ordered.
EDIT: Looks like no sound also. :Scratch-Head:
Later Tony
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Were you able to put credits on the machine using the small button on the back of the optic ?
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Jay,
Was pretty late last night so we didn't try the coin stuff. I pretty much just hinted to fix one thing at a time and and left it with fixing door optics to get it to see the door closed. Sent him some info on setup and such, he didn't have any slot information before just working from experience on an earlier machine that he fixed pretty easy and got it working great. This one was in rougher shape and he had done some previous work that wasn't mentioned much up front. Like all of us he's is doing his best with very little info. Hoping last night helped some on how to use the forum and ask for help with other stuff in future. Looks like we got another good member that will be adding to his collection as time progresses.
Tony
PS: Reason I talked with him last night was I thought the forum was 'wondering' a bit and just wanted to get the hot fuse thing fixed as I thought that was pretty important to concentrate on first, then move on to the regular problems that all newbies deal with. Maybe even start a new thread on each problem. I and he do appreciate all the help and input. As everyone sez 'great bunch of really helpful people here' :wave:
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For others that are maybe wondering about button deck wiring colors in an S+...>>>
Lamp ground side wires are blue and hot side wires are blue w/ various colored stripes.
Switch ground side wires are green and hot side wires are yellow w/ various colored stripes.
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as stated many times , the LED will not come on when the door is open!, the only way to see that occur, drop down the belly door, undo the cc-16 bracket ,set it up outside the machine through the belly door opening, hook it up and close the door and see if the LED will come on?
as for the door optic, check the cash can switch, the belly door switch or jumper, run input test 13, see if it is toggling back and forth, 0/1. check the wiring to the optic themselves , sometimes the wire is broken and not visible.
what sp chip is he using? if 1271, maybe its not turned on?
Q-1 may have fried due to hook up issues!
have him run the input coin optic tests to see if they are working.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Good Evening All!
First I would like to thank Trisail for helping me troubleshoot my issues with the slot machine. He was on the phone with me last night for three hours. I learned a lot. I also want to thank all for you for your valuable help. My machine is finally working, The bill acceptor is accepting Dollars, but not the newer denominations. Thats OK. My coin comparitor does not work, I have a refurbished, tested one coming in next week. The Max Bet button lights up and there is sound. The only other thing is my lower yellow light from the candle is blinking. I'm a newbie so I might be missing something. I have crammed a lot of info the past week so I do have brain fog. I will need to buy some of the panel lights with the square back for the IGT S+ machine. Picked some up on ebay, but they were for the IGT S2000. They have a circular back and don't seem to fit. Once again Thanks!
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Congratulations. Do you have a delivery date for your next machine ?
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The only other thing is my lower yellow light from the candle is blinking.
Once you close the main door and complete a game, (using credits/money) that light should stop blinking.
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Betcha you learned a lot about your machine eh? :arrowthruhead:
Keep learning...it's kinda fun when it all sinks into your brain how these things work! :cool_thumb_up: