New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: TheBrave on January 11, 2016, 03:01:05 PM
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Hi everyone. Yet another IGT S+ noob here....
I've got an Empire King (IGT Dbl Diamonds) that just won't clear the 61_1 after the reset key is turned. This machine is missing the bill acceptor - like the whole unit. Can these machines play without one? Meaning if I can figure out the issues, should it function?
There's a TON a really good info here about those codes and I have tried all I've found so far, with no luck. My self test is located on the back of the on/off switch, (took a while to figure that one out), but again, I got that info from NLG!
Any help is appreciated, even if there's another post about this I haven't found yet.
Thanx much!
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Yes the machine will work without a bill acceptor.
Many the bill door switch is open and will not allow you to clear the 61-1 code
Be sure all doors are closed before you turn the reset key.
If all else fails you can perform a clear and that should work but only as a last resort
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Wow that was fast! Thank you!
I can see using a camera that the optics aren't working. Traced them to the board on the bottom/back of the machine and checked the connections. Everything seems ok. I can't imagine LED's dying out but maybe they did.
Also, just FYI, I bought this machine only a few weeks ago in a non-working state, with hopes I could clear that 61 / 61_1 error. I already performed a clear chip on the MB since it has zero history here anyway. The chip I used is labeled F760 CLEAR.
Would those codes cause the optics to shut down?
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If the door optics aren't working you won't be able to clear the 61-1 code.
Dave
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Do you have an S2000? The optics are the same on them. Sometimes old parts just wear out or could have a broken wire. But no the 61, 61-1 won't shut the optics down.
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No it's an S+, and thank you Dave. I found some optics for $15 shipped that are the same part number from Gambler's Oasis.
Also, this is the same issue as I, but a different direction: http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4761.msg25083#msg25083 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4761.msg25083#msg25083) I'll try one of those chips too.
My wife wanted this machine since the 90's and they are pretty hard to find, so I took this one ($500) thinking, "Oh I got this. I can TOTALLY fix this!"
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Even with the price of a few parts. You can get it going and you're getting valuable experience in the mean time. Good looking machine, I like Roundtops. Keep us posted to progress, as sometimes there might be a little more to tinker with. We'll wait to hear from you. And welcome to NLG!
Dave
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Thank you for the welcome! I'll keep this thread going and let everyone know what I did, as soon as I get some of those small parts in.
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Awesome..... :cool_thumb_up:
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Hasn't it been said you can perform a sudo-clear on an S+ by swapping in a different MPU and then swapping back to the origional? Or is it just one of the chips, SS or SP? I believe you still have to reset the 61-1 code but I think it clears the loop
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When you shut the door do all the displays blank for a few seconds?
If not, do you have power on the green, black pair going to the door optic transmitter?
The bill door switch referred to earlier should be a green, green/black pair (should be beaned) on the lower right wire harness that runs to the handle lock solenoid (can't tell from your picture).
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Hi off-track. Yes, the displays do go blank for a few seconds after I shut the door, but the only one after it comes back up is the 61 code. All of the other displays remain blank (unless I turn the reset key and then I get into a bunch of different testing modes). That only happens if I don't use the self-test switch on the power switch.
I put a multimeter on the female side of the optics (inside door on the right, not on the door itself) and I'm getting roughly 1.0 AC.
I'm not sure which area to photograph, so here's where the bill acceptor should be. I know I have a couple of connectors for it, but that's about all I know.
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Well if the display flashes after the door is shut and latched, the optics are working. So after pushing the test button getting 61-1 then closing and latching the door, it goes back to 61 or stays at 61-1?
Dave
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You don't by chance have a white switch like this in your machine with wires running to it?
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In your pic I see a cut green wire inside the cabinet where the pull arm mechanism is. They are bundled up with the two wires that go to the switch on the pull arm. I'm almost sure there is two green wires that are cut that went to the cash can door switch. They have to be connected together . You can't get past 61-1 without those cash can wires connected together.
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After pressing the self-test on the powerswitch, it goes to 61-1. Nothing changes after I turn the reset key.
No I don't have that! I saw it in the manual and thought it was this thing in the photo, but it's got double stick foam tape on it that's rather aged and it tells me it's supposed to be in that spot. No idea what it is.
Just looked at my Bally Swing Time and CDS Reel Deal Poker and they both have that door switch.
I think I know what I need now. Geeez. How did I miss that? No more beer for me before 8am anymore I guess.
Sunrise, yes there's at least one cut green wire wrapped around the pull mech. I thought it had something to do with that part since it seems to be bundled in with others.
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Ok now I'm getting a little progress!
Sunrise, you were right. Two green wires in there that were cut. Got 'em hooked together and now I have an error 64. Reels spun and setup and I get "insert coin" now.
I don't have error 64 on my error code sheet. Anyone know what that is or how to continue?
Edit: Label inside of door says "Link down". Ok...
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Try opening and shutting and latching the door. I wanted to make sure wires weren't bypassed. No you don't need it.
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Yeah that cleared it, but when I put a coin in, it comes back.
No worries. I'll take another crack at it soon. Need to get back to work, but a HUGE THANK YOU to everyone who's helped! This is a lot further than I was a few weeks ago.
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Read this and see if it helps. http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1838.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1838.0) Could be the battery on the Top Box MPU also. Read here also http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16011.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16011.0) another http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4545.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4545.0) Here is pics for the location of the battery in the upper cabinet MPU
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2772.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2772.0)
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I put a multimeter on the female side of the optics (inside door on the right, not on the door itself) and I'm getting roughly 1.0 AC.
Not that it's important anymore but... that is the receiver. The opto transmitter is on the door itself. You have to get your camera lens just inline (tight fit) to see the narrow beam LED.
Is there a coin in the comparitor?
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Sunrise, those are good links. Will try those soon.
Off track, I can see the optics working now as you describe. I do have a quarter in the compairator. Does the missing white door plunger have anything to do with the 64 code? I'm not sure about it.
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Did you check the battery in the top box MPU as suggested earlier? Being over 15 years old it wouldn't surprise me if it was low or dead and causing issues
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TheBrave, no the white switch is not used on your game. Sometimes those are used for a bypass. I was just trying to get info earlier. It's not causing any problem. I think as SunriseSide and Cowboygames mentioned, check the battery in the top box.
Dave
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No I haven't checked it yet. I got called out of town for work so I'll just change it when I get back Thursday or Friday.
And again, I'm seriously thankful for all of the support! I know nobody has any obligation to answer my questions so it really means a lot.
I promise to check or change that battery soon! Btw you can call me Johnny
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Actually Johnny, that's what this place is all about. We have a very unique site here. It's about helping new ones and then they help new ones etc. It's about the enjoyment of gaming machines and the ability to help others who enjoy it too. And if I sounded like you High School Principal there, or Guidance Counselor I'm sorry. I try not to act like a grownup if I can help it. :24: So ask away, that's what we're here for. :yes:
Dave
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I try not to act like a grownup if I can help it.
With a tag of "Shaggy", seriously? :Scratch-Head:
On a side note.. what is this "top box" battery of which you speak? I an only aware of the MPU battery.
It's late but, and I know I've read of the 64/link error but, IIRC that didn't stop anything? If he has reel spin on power up, the displays blank and clear on door closure and the insert coin is lit shouldn't it work? Wouldn't the next possibility be to walk through the option settings?
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On a side note.. what is this "top box" battery of which you speak? I an only aware of the MPU battery.
It's late but, and I know I've read of the 64/link error but, IIRC that didn't stop anything? If he has reel spin on power up, the displays blank and clear on door closure and the insert coin is lit shouldn't it work? Wouldn't the next possibility be to walk through the option settings?
This game has a top-box bonus feature (the "King Kong" ape climbing up the top box glass and awarding a credit award), so the machine needs to be able to talk to the board(s) that run the top box bonus, or the game will tilt, which seems to be about where we're at right now.
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Ok so I tore apart the top section and there is no battery to be found anywhere. Check the pics. I removed one board that was stacked on the other and didn't see one there and then did the same for another board below the Barcrest top. That one does have a button battery, which was putting out .4V, so I replaced with a new good one.
Put it all back together and got a reel 3 tilt code and cleared that. Now I'm back to the 64 code again. Obviously I'm still missing the link to the upstairs.
The good news is that I was able to connect the candle and one ground. The candle has the top white section blinking now.
If anyone can see a battery on any of these boards (with the exception of the button battery I replaced) let me know because I can't see it.
Johnny
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Few more:
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What indications, if any, do you get from the top box to show it is getting power
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It lights up (?) The candle works now.
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last of them:
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That's not a barcrest top box, based on the sound chips it appears to be AC Coin. The CR2025 battery you replaced, was it on a board that's part of the top box mechanism? Have you tried a full clear of the machine since replacing that battery?
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Yeah I see AC Coin printed on a few these boards. That battery was below the upstairs but it does have cables going up.
I didn't perform a full clear yet since replacing the battery. I'll do that next.
Johnny
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Open the bottom door and press that button you posted a pic of earlier. Then close the door. That maybe the reset button for the board you replaced the battery on. That is how my AC Coin is designed.
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Sunrise, I just tried that, and it cleared the code and the candle stopped flashing. Then it gave me a 65-3 so I turned the reset key and it showed 65-1. Pressed the self test button and it's back to 64.
I can try the clear chip on it, I suppose. I'm not sure where to go from here.
Johnny
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Performed the clear chip, and according to my documentation, it's supposed to count up to 2999 and stop in the winner paid and credits windows. I get 1 and then 2 in the winner paid and 999 in the credits.
Other than that, it goes as described on the sheet including the cute little ding.
I checked the soldered battery with a multimeter and it's putting out 3.6v as it should.
Still getting the 64 code. Not sure what else to do. I don't wanna say it's a boat anchor yet! Could it maybe have something to do with the game chip in the photo?
Johnny
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I don't know too much about the bonus game, but I would remove the cable that interconnects the top box board with the lower components and clean the pins at each end with one of those white erasers then reseat. I would do that with the other various board interconnects as well.
I would also get the PSR for that game chip as it might have some info about the bonus games.
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Hi jay. I've been monkey-ing with this thing all day, removing and re-seating ribbon cables and anything else that plugs in.
There's very little of anything for this machine online. I've tried looking for a PSR (including phone calls to vendors) and most haven't even heard of this game.
I think it's almost time to start throwing money at it - buying boards and whatever else I can get my hands on - to see if I hit something. I know of one person who has the stock of AC Coin and Slot boards in Texas, but he's hard to keep on the phone as he seems rather busy when I call. That might be the last of my options.
Johnny
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This guy has one on his site. maybe he can help
http://www.pinballandmore.com/slotmachines.php (http://www.pinballandmore.com/slotmachines.php)
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Have you double checked the polarity of the button cell battery you replaced on the board in the upper cabinet? If battery is in backward it will throw a error code.
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therockinelvis: that's the place I bought it from. Good people for sure, but it was non-functional for them as it is for me. The good news (with the help of you fine folk) I got past the 61 code that they couldn't.
Sunrise, the polarity is ok. I just checked as you suggested and it's as it should be. I do have one question about that...the battery I took out had CR2032 stamped on it. I replaced it with a CR2025. Is there a difference?
I know this: the bottom half is fine. Something weird happened tonight, as it started to work. Accepted coins and my wife and I had a few spins! When she hit a "climb" bonus on a reel, the 64 code came back. That's a for-sure the top is not communicating with the bottom, as the monkey should have started his thing.
I'm going to just pull it apart and put it all back together using new (used) boards over the course of time. Although, my wife seems to think that this molex plug (which is coming up from the bottom) should be plugged into something.
I told her lots of machines use somewhat "generic" wire harnesses that can have empty plugs, but maybe she's right. I can't find anything for this to hook into so I really don't know. It uses all but two connectors in it and there's nothing else in the machine, that I can see, that has that.
BTW, I started it up with the top glass off and I can see a green LED on the power supply. I'm guessing that means it's working.
I also told my wife if she finds me dead in the game room she'll know what did me in. She suggested to use the top glass as my headstone.
Johnny
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Did you check the voltage of the battery you installed? 3 volts ? Not sure what the difference is in those battery numbers if it is diameter or thickness? Does the battery fit snuggly in the holder? The limit switch at the bottom of the King Kong screw climbing assembly, is the limit switch working?
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Try lubricating the screw assembly and the motor that turns the screw assembly. If it is dragging/dry and does not move freely it will throw a code.
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Battery number difference affects size and power. Is the battery tight in the holder?
Is there any kind of test button on the top box unit?
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No idea about the AC/coin. My barcrest Top Dollar had a problem and it was a small comm. board located behind the hopper just under reel #3. Yours has two under reel 1 & 2 and I see the left one with orange sticker does not appear to have anything plugged in.
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Did you check the voltage of the battery you installed? 3 volts ? Not sure what the difference is in those battery numbers if it is diameter or thickness? Does the battery fit snuggly in the holder? The limit switch at the bottom of the King Kong screw climbing assembly, is the limit switch working?
Yes, the battery is new and putting out 3v. Seems to fit fine but I'll pick up some 2032's anyway and replace it. The switch at the bottom of the screw assembly is ON, meaning the mech is sitting on the switch, but I don't know if it's any good. Pic attached. I may have one like that laying around I can install, I just have dig for it.
I haven't greased anything on this machine but I honestly never thought of it! I have some lithium I can use on the mech but I may only have access to the shaft on [size=78%]the motor[/size][/size][size=78%]. [/size][size=78%][/size]Definitely[size=78%][/size][size=78%] worth a try.[/size][size=78%]
Battery number difference affects size and power. Is the battery tight in the holder?
Is there any kind of test button on the top box unit?
The only button I can find upstairs is a reset/on/off switch for the topper, which does work. Pic attached.
No idea about the AC/coin. My barcrest Top Dollar had a problem and it was a small comm. board located behind the hopper just under reel #3. Yours has two under reel 1 & 2 and I see the left one with orange sticker does not appear to have anything plugged in.
Me either. Whoever designed and built this thing knew what they were doing. I do not.
The box on the left does have one 6 pin connecter on the bottom that's plugged in and going to the MB at the base of the machine, behind the hopper. Pic attached. I took them both out yesterday in hopes there might be a battery in there, but no dice.
I found an exact replacement comm board for this slot on Amazon (they really do have everything) so I ordered it and I'll put that one in when it gets here. Mine does have an LED lit up that reads ERR, (top middle), so it could be it's a bad board or it's just detecting something. Either way, new battery, new board and we will see how it goes.
Johnny
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Ok, so I threw some money at this thing, and replaced the lower mother board, a new controller card and a new correct size 2032 button battery, but no change in the 64 code. Worse case is I now have spare boards.
I'm turning my attention to the power supply in the top cabinet, and although it has a green LED lit up, (post#42), I'm suspicious.
This is a 12v S-60-12 switching power supply (I think it's switching) and I can find them online no problem. The label in the photo is the only exterior marking. The thing is, when I put my multi meter on the output, it jumps all over the place; 35.0, 5.2, 13.4, 2.0, 0.L (never seen that last one before). The input is a steady 120v.
Since this could be a switching power supply, should the output be doing that? Hoping I get a bunch of "No's"
Johnny
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You may be on the right track with the power supply. I read somewhere about the power supplies being an common problem in the top cabinet of these models.
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that power supply should be putting out a DC voltage 12 volts DC. when your meter is jumping around like it you may have it on AC voltage range. also make sure you are using the ground for that power supply to measure the voltage. Barcrest machines had that code as well, usually meant that the bottom cpu wasn't talking to the top cpu, the board on the back wall behind the hopper was the interface for the two cpu's, the red and green LED's usually flash when the two are talking.
Jim
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also, looking at your pictures in your first post, I can see where the one cable is not connected to the interface board??
Jim
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My thoughts are that you should grab a barcrest manual. I would suspect that the error codes are probably common across top box games. Probably conforming to some IGT book of secrets.
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Jim, you're right. Was checking output with AC. DC reads a steady 12.08v. Crap!! Maybe I'll buy one anyway.
Regarding the first photo, the white connector in the background is supposed to be for the missing bill acceptor. There's another two-pin connector in the foreground for the same thing.
I wish this was a Barcrest machine. None of the top box internals exist in this thing compared to the Barcrest. Appears to be more AC Coin, so unfortunately, no battery upstairs to replace.
If anyone knows where to get AC Coin boards, please let me know. I'd be interested to get some new/working used. Or, even some photos of the upstairs guts of another IGT Empire King/Deluxe or Merlin. Would be curious to make comparisons.
Johnny
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the board on the back wall behind the hopper was the interface for the two cpu's, the red and green LED's usually flash when the two are talking.
Jim
When you say red and green LED's are you talking about the two black boxes in the first post's photo? Mine are not flashing in either box and those are the only LED's I see in that area. The red LED on the board on the right does flash for a split second when powering on, but stays dark after that.
What I do see, are two plugs on each. One four pin, one six. The six is plugged in on both, but the four pin is not on the left. I can't find another disconnected four pin wire anywhere near it, but I'm wondering if that's power.
Johnny
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I've been looking thru the NLG trying to find photos of how those black boxes are supposed to be hooked up. Can anyone direct me to a link to another post, or maybe put up a few pics? I'd like to make some comparisons if I can.
I'm adding a few other photos here of what I have. The bottom line is that I don't know what's supposed to be hooked in or not. Both of my black boxes are not active with the flashing LED's so I'd like to see how others are wired up.
Johnny
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Your's is the only one I have ever seen with two, so I have nothing. There was someone on EBay that was selling AC coin machines but I remember them all being S2000's. Search our members for CP and send him a message, he may know or have some of those machines.
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Can you post a pic of the motherboard wire connections in the lower cabinet at the MPU? At the right hand side of the motherboard.
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therockinelvis: I got in touch with CP as you suggested, but he doesn't have any AC Coin parts. Still, maybe the word will get out that I'm looking.
Sunrise: here's a few pis. I hope this is what you're looking for. If you want different angles, let me know. BTW, I replaced the board on the bottom and also the little 8-pin chip using an IC socket. Still no luck.
Also, does anyone know what that lock is for, with the green/yellow wires? I used a key from another slot that turns it, and it's plugged into the board but doesn't do anything. The lock next to it is missing which I'm guessing was for locking the motherboard in.
Johnny
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went on the old site, found this post about a Barcrest with a 64 code, showed the wiring in relation to the interface board.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1838.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1838.0)
also, there was a member, angryningas, who had one of these machine up and working , you may want to check out that thread, or contact him. haven't seen him on here in a long time.
Jim
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Reading that post, it say's there is a Varta battery in top box. Does this mean there are 2 batteries since he has the 2032? Or maybe someone put a battery holder in place. Maybe check the traces at your battery to be sure your getting the 3 vdc to the board. Maybe bad solder job?
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Jim: that's a great link and I never knew that old site existed! I'm definitely missing that one white plug and nothing in the machine to plug into it (of course). I traced the other wires from the black boxes and they both plug into the board and are wired together that way. Maybe those boards in the black boxes are bad?
therockinelvis: I REALLY wish there was a battery to replace in the upstairs but there is not a single one to be found. I've torn it apart and back together twice and never saw one.
The other two batteries are good. Re-soldered the 3.6 and it's reading full voltage.
Johnny
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Just a thought, all his wiring at the MB are all neat with new cable tie's. Does J4 need to be used for this or others wrapped up there.
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J4 was empty when I got this machine. I plugged in the wire to it from the left box, but I don't know if it's needed. And yeah, mine was tied up all neat too, until I started to trace those wires out. Now it's a nice mess.
And thank you for that schematic! Until now, I had no clue what most of those connectors were (even after reading the S+ manual).
Johnny
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J4 is for the counters and not needed for operation on an S+.
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I guess it makes sense why those two black boxes aren't working. They're plugged into the counter, printer and backlit reels. The last two don't exist in my slot. So at this point, there's no place to hook up the black boxes on the board. I'm beginning to wonder if this machine ever worked at all!
I'm out of ideas, and I think I made a $500 mistake.
But I'm truly grateful for all of the support! Thank you to everyone for your input. At the very least, I learned quite a bit about IGT.
If anyone can come up with ideas, post 'em here and I'll be glad to try.
Johnny
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The nice thing about the S+ is that any game can be made into any other game.
If you are giving up you can always get a different set of glass / Strips etc and it will be a regular S+
With that said. I am sure this will interface the same as a barcrest as AC cling made game kits not S+
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No I don't wanna give up. I'm just beaten, for now.
Johnny
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J5 is the meters. J4 is dcs whatever that is. Then there is the sdc at J9 whatever that is. Things are a little different for you because barcrest use's one box and your AC coin use's 2. I would think it has to know what the reels are doing to register bonus round.
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OK, I checked my Top Dollar and the wiring for the comm. board is plugged into J12(printer) as 3 yellow wires as seen in picture. Then it goes to a connector and becomes 6 wires that go to the comm. board. I also have something plugged into J13(progressive). I have no progressive and I did not trace where they went.
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J5 is the meters. J4 is dcs whatever that is.
Correct J5 is the meters. My mistake not for not looking at the print correctly.
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Try moving your plug at J14 to J13. Do you have anything at J12?
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Try moving your plug at J14 to J13. Do you have anything at J12?
I can't switch those plugs. J13 is 6-pin and J14 is 7pin. Nothing is plugged in at J12.
Thank you for those photos! That does help a little.
Johnny
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First let me start by saying, I have never owned one of these machines.
But I would look at the Com boards for communications. You stated that you got the machine to play, up to where it was expecting communications in the topbox and then threw the error code again. This tell me the Com boards are not sending/receiving proper signal. Could be from a missing connector or just no signal. When testing the Com board for signal, I would think you would need to perform this with the door closed. Try bypassing the optics and checking for the flashing LED lights as mentioned in post #53
I believe you are on the right track and will eventually get this machine up.
I'll keep watching but may need more popcorn. :popcorn: :Eating_Popcorn:
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Maybe check this guy www.ohioriverslots.com (http://www.ohioriverslots.com) . He has a couple Money Mad Martians, and Phoenix Gold.
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Xcllnt and thank you therockinelvis! That's the first place I've seen that has those slots. I'll get in touch with them, and if I can't figure it out, maybe I'll send it to 'em for repairs.
Johnny
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I remember seeing something about a different IGT S+ clear chip that totally cleared everything out. I have an F760 and was looking around these forums for a different one, but can't seem to find it now. Was wondering if anyone knows what it is.
Thanx.
Johnny
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There are lots of SET chips - Ie the SET 90 has lots of different options for progressives that are not available in earlier versions.
The clear chip is generally been static.
What is not clearing ?
The most common cause of things not clearing would be not using the clear chip properly.
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You may be on to something about set chips. Looks like the 62 does barcrest, just don't know about AC/Coin
Set Denomination EPROMS
SET004 -PE+ Set Denom/ Enable Validator
SET005 -S+ Set Denom/ Validator
SET015 -S+ Set Denom/ Validator
SET020 -S+ Set Denom
SET026 -S+ Set Denom/ Enable Validator/ EFT
SET030 -S+ Set Denom/ Enable Validator/ SAS 4.0
SET033 -PE+ Set Denom/ Enable Validator/ SAS 4.0
SET053 -S+ Set Denom/ Enable Validator/ Barcrest-Pinball
SET058 -Use with SP1048 (w/ stand alone prog.)
SET062 -S+ Set Denom/ Enable Validator/ SAS 4.0 for Hit The Top/ Little Devils/
Top Dollar
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What is not clearing ?
The most common cause of things not clearing would be not using the clear chip properly.
I was on the phone with Dennis (I think that was his name) from Westfield Slots and he told me that he vaguely remembers working on one of these machines a while back with the same issue. He suggested to use a different clear chip as he said it wasn't a hardware issue for him.
therockinelvis: I don't know if any of those set chips would work on this box, but I suppose one of 'em is worth a try.
I was just trying to see if there was another clear chip I can use for this thing. Kinda at the end of my rope.
Johnny
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Clear EPROMS: For All Current Game Themes
SET006 -S+ E-Square Clear
IVC006 -PE+ Clear CMOS/E-Square
IVC068 -EZ Route 8032 CVT Clear
IVC00096 -Vision Ram Clear
IVC00097 -Vision Ram/E-Square Clear (Replaces IVC00070)
IVC0103 -S+ CMOS (Ram)/ E-Square Clear
IVC0104 -S+ CMOS (Ram) Clear
CV0040 V.08 - EZ Route CVT Program
CSV0056 -Game King Ram/E-Square Clear (GME 1- GME-2)
Maybe the 006 or 103
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I have an update...
I was thinking of using a different clear chip for this thing, particularly the IVC0103, but I can't find one. I saw that RICKHUNTER posted a while back that he used an IVC0103 to completely clear out an S+, so I asked to see if maybe there was one for sale or where to find one. No luck.
I was given some great advice, though. RICKHUNTER suggested I try a different SP chip to force a reset of sorts, which I did. I tried an SP1311 in place of the OEM SP0X11 and I could totally play the machine just fine - without the Empire bonus round.
I put the 0X11 back in and it's back to the 64 error code. Now I know what the problem is, so thank you RICKHUNTER!!!
Anyone know where I can get an SP0X11? Really wanna get one of these things.
Johnny
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I've not had any dealings with him but this seller has a lot of stuff like this, you might contact him and see if he has or can get what you need:
http://www.jjslots.com/S-Plus_c19.htm (http://www.jjslots.com/S-Plus_c19.htm)
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I got my SP1311 from him as he didn't have any of the SP0X11's. It did get my slot running but just not *exactly* the way it should.
Thank you for the link, rokgpsman!
Johnny
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I only looked quickly but in the top box do you have a MPU4 CONTROLLER with a 3.6 volt Varta battery inside? The battery goes bad over this much time and can destroy the MPU4. Try checking the voltage on the battery . If it is very low or dead then take it out and inspect for any trace damage. Good luck.
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This isn't a Barcrest game.
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I read thru and it is a AC COIN. I will ask around anyway.
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I found a helpful post suggesting to remove the CMOS for a couple of mins, re-install and then perform a clear on the board. http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=10708.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=10708.0)
I was cautiously optimistic as it did act a little different after I put the SP chip back in.
It gave me a 65 error and then a 65_1 which I cleared no problem. Then the Insert Coin was lit up. No errors. Unfortunately the coins just fell thru to the tray, so I opened and closed the door again and the 64 is back.
I've been trolling ebay looking for the random SP0X11 chip to show up but it seems I have the last one left in the world. If anyone knows of where to get one of these things, please post back here!
Johnny
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Send it out to have it read for errors and possibly rewritten
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I opened and closed the door again and the 64 is back.
I've been trolling ebay looking for the random SP0X11 chip to show up but it seems I have the last one left in the world. If anyone knows of where to get one of these things, please post back here!
I hate to be a Debbie Downer here, but I don't think that chip is your problem. The machine is having an issue communicating with the top-box bonus. As you've discovered, there aren't many people at all who have experience with the AC Coin S+ bonus games. :no:
Just some random ideas to try and get you some help:
I see that a working Empire King was sold on eBay by "Texas Slots and Gaming" in March of 2014, and they claimed in their listing for it (http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ac-coin-igt-slot-machine-empire-king-510293376) that they had refurbished the machine, so it might be possible one of their employees may be familiar with the nuances of the machine. I guess it couldn't hurt to ask, although I don't know what kind of response (if any) you'll get from them: http://www.texasslotsandgaming.com/ (http://www.texasslotsandgaming.com/)
Some discussion of AC Coin and a brief mention of Empire King on the old site, here: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4432.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4432.0)
Finally, you could try the Slot Tech Forum to see if any of the real-life casino techs there remember the AC Coin S+ games like Empire King and might have some ideas for you. For the most part, that site has active techs dealing with today's technology, not a relative antique like your machine, but there's not much to lose by asking: http://www.slottechforum.com/ (http://www.slottechforum.com/)
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No you're definitely not a Debbie Downer. I'm starting to think you're right. I cold-called an old-timer and he told me that he remembered working on one of these particular slots which had the same issue. He told me he didn't replace any hardware but rather he needed a different clear chip to fix it. Unfortunately, he didn't remember what chip it was.
I did manage to get my hands on an IVC103 from JJ Slots, but it didn't come with instructions so don't know if I'm using it right. When I put the board back in with the 103, I pressed the test button a couple of times but nothing happened. The only thing on the display is a zero in the credits.
Does anyone know how to use the IVC103? Are there any special procedures? I was using as I would an IVC123.
Johnny
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I've been looking thru the NLG trying to find photos of how those black boxes are supposed to be hooked up. Can anyone direct me to a link to another post, or maybe put up a few pics? I'd like to make some comparisons if I can.
I'm adding a few other photos here of what I have. The bottom line is that I don't know what's supposed to be hooked in or not. Both of my black boxes are not active with the flashing LED's so I'd like to see how others are wired up.
Johnny
Here is a pic of the 2 com boards in the S+ a/c coin Merlin I am currently working on. #1 goes to serial interface plug on bally mastercom unit on the bottom right side of the top box. #2 goes to the 2 red splice connectors at the motherboard which are then plugged into J13 & J14. #3 is connected to the same red connectors as #2. #4 goes to the orange molex connector TB81 in the top box. Hope this helps.
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That's a great photo and it does help! Let me have another look and see if I can trace them out. Again. haha
As for the IVC103, I ended up sending it back to JJ Slots as it may have been no good. They're sending me another to try.
Johnny
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Good Karma to Slam for taking the time to post that potentially very helpful photo, and to Johnny (TheBrave) for sticking with this -- your refusal to give up is great!
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Ok Slam, so all of the wires you describe are indeed attached where they should be, except for #1. That wire is not in my machine. I don't know exactly where it's supposed to go in the top box. The only thing I have in there, on the lower right, is an AC Coin sound interface card which has all of its connectors plugged in. Check the pics.
If you have another pic of the other end of that one connector it would definitely help. I feel like this might be the missing part.
I got a replacement IVC103 from JJ Slots, but I'd like to try this first before running it.
One thing's for sure, I am so glad there's someone else that has one of these IGT/AC Coin FrankenSlots as I do! Thank you again!
Johnny
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Is this the same board that you are missing the harness for?
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Yep that's the one. I don't know where it attaches from there....going up, I mean.
Johnny
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Here's where that missing wire goes.
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So now I know. That board is not there either! Seems I'm missing a few guts to this thing. I'll have to see if anyone has one of those boards for sale. And I'll have to figure out where the other connectors go too.
It's a little weird that there's a bally board in there, but maybe it's normal?
The pic shows that it probably was there at some point, but not anymore.
Thank you very much for your help, Slam. I never would have known!
Johnny
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The board in Slam's reply (#97 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=9562.msg61950#msg61950)) is a Bally Mastercom board, which was typically used to interface between a slot machine and the casino's player tracking unit (the "frequent gambler" player's card reader) and network. While I can't swear to it since I don't know how those AC Coin hybrid machines worked, it is unlikely that you'll need a Mastercom board for the machine to work in a stand-alone configuration.
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Yeah you're probably right, knagl. But I did find one for $25 and I'm willing to give it a go. If that's no good then MAYBE the IVC103 will be "game 7 final" for this thing.
We have a lot of friends asking about it and wanting to try it, but so far nothing. But I have become quite good at taking it apart and putting back together again, 'tho!
Johnny
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Is there a MPU4 or/and MPU5 in the top cabinet? They have a battery inside. You have to take the metal case off to get at the battery. Have you checked the bottom or back side of all the boards in the top cabinet for a battery. Check the bottoms of MPU4 & 5 boards also. When you get to 65 code turn power off and then on. See if you get a 61 after power up.
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Is there a MPU4 or/and MPU5 in the top cabinet? They have a battery inside. You have to take the metal case off to get at the battery. Have you checked the bottom or back side of all the boards in the top cabinet for a battery. Check the bottoms of MPU4 & 5 boards also. When you get to 65 code turn power off and then on. See if you get a 61 after power up.
There is not an mpu4/5 board in this machine. It does have a 2032 batt. for the top box which he has already replaced.
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OK Thanks.!
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Is there a MPU4 or/and MPU5 in the top cabinet?
This is an AC Coin game, not a Barcrest game. No MPU4/MPU5. :propeller:
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OK. Thanks!
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Ok, Im still at it and my next attempt is with a few missing wires. First, if anyone has, (or knows where to get), the wire that plugs into J12 on the MB and then to one of the comm boards, I'm looking for one. Photo shows the red/white arrow pointing to it. I lifted this photo from an older NLG thread regarding a Barcrest with an err 64 issue.
Second, I want to pick up the wires for the Bally Matercom 220. Slam posted what his looks like in #97. One plugs into one of the comm boards, and since I have two of these boards, and neither of them work, I'm going this route.
This was the thread pointed out to me which gives me the idea to carry on : http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1838.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1838.0) Reply #16 and #17 are what leads me to believe this could be my issue. For now.
Johnny
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Here is what the plugs on the mother board do.
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Thanx for posting that therockinelvis! While that might be accurate for S+ machines, I believe it may not be 100% gospel for S+/AC Coin. I'm just going to have to experiment and see what I can do. That's why I want to find those wires.
If I could compare a working Empire/Merlin, that would be great, but I highly doubt that's gonna happen anytime!
Johnny
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Maybe try calling this person and see if they would be willing to help you. They have one for sale.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/tag/5891925555.html (http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/tag/5891925555.html)
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Sunrise, you have no idea how much I appreciate your post. My wife said to BUY IT so I'm gonna try if I can get it shipped. If not, maybe I can convince them to get a few photos of the guts for me.
Thank you for finding that! I've been looking all over for anything and BAM!! You found one.
Johnny