New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: henrydwh on October 19, 2021, 01:01:23 PM
-
Been really wanting to get a poker or slot and I finally had one come up for sale in my area, I am new to this world and I am looking for info/input on what I believe is an IGT Players edge slant top deuces wild. The seller is asking 400.00, it doesn't have keys and is showing "open door & low battery" error.
I figure I will have to drill out the lock to gain access, and replace the battery, but what about the door open error? I believe 400.00 is a good price, but would like to hear input on the price. Also what fix would be needed if possible.
I do have some experience with games, I own 2 pinball machines and can do basic soldering.
-
$400 for a non-working (although an easy fix) PE+ slant top with missing keys is pretty overpriced in my opinion, unless there's about $200 in quarters inside of it. Slant top (sit-down style) machines are generally not very desirable for home users since they are a giant pain to move due to their size and weight.
-
I agree with knagl, I typically offer $75-$150, depending on the extent of death, for a non-working machine unless it is a game with some provenance or a really cool glass set. You can sell hopper and crt for parts and get your money back if the game is not fixable.
As mentioned, the size makes the sit down machines very difficult to sell or move.
If you really like the format of the machine and the Monitor is clearly working the error code can be resolved by replacing battery and searching NLG for that error code. PE games are very common still.
-
Thanks for the response. Well I have already made arrangements to pick this up Saturday. After doing a lot of reading on this forum, would the 2341 key be the correct reset key for this machine? Also what type of battery would I need? I would like to get these on order if possible.
As far as the price goes, the seller wanted 450.00, I shot her an offer of 350.00 ended up with 400.00, Just from looking around of Facebook market place and google 800.00-1000.00 seemed to about what a working machine was going for, so I decided to take a chance.
I am sure I will have a few more questions after I get it home and get into it! :thank_you:
-
Yes, 2341 is the standard reset key.
The battery is a 1/2AA 3.6V lithium with solder tabs. I recommend getting a battery holder with tabs, solder it on the MPU board and then you can use a regular 1/2AA battery. Then in 10 years or so when it dies you can just pop it out and pop the new one in.
-
Is it recommended to move the battery off the board in case of leakage? I know this is common practice with pinball machines.
-
I do not move them off the board, I sometimes do like Tilt suggests and put a cell holder on the board so battery changing is easy. It is something to consider since most of us have had the unpleasant task of cleaning and repairing a board due to a leaking battery, although most of mine have been 35 year old machines where no one has ever changed the battery.
-
First off, Thank you to everybody that took the time to reply!!!! Much appreciated! So here is where I am at, I took possession of the machine Saturday afternoon. I have drilled out the cabinet lock and the bill validator lock, and that was a trick getting that open! Took about 2 hours before I figured it out! Found a whopping 2.00 in it. lol I have the battery holder and battery on order as well as the reset key. What I am going to need is the bill validator barrel lock and cabinet barrel lock replacement also got a few sticky buttons, a couple cancel/hold and the max bet. Not having much luck locating these items, but I am just getting started, but would love to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks in advance!!!
-
When you say bill validator lock - I believe your talking about the Cash Can.
In most cases when you buy a shopped out machine, there is no lock on the Cash Can and most people leave these without a lock.
Per a cabinet lock - check out the vendors on the main page.
You can also take your old lock to a lock smith and he should be able to set you up with a new barrel lock - basically you only need one the same length that can take the cam from your old one.
-
Anybody know where I can fine a replacement "bet one credit" button, I broke it unsticking and cleaning. I have spent hours and hours searching and can not find a exact replacement, I would really like it to match my other buttons. What or who is a good source for parts for these old IGT PE+ machines? Also probably should start looking for a manual, any leads on that would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Dave
-
I would start by reaching out to the vendors listed on the home page. Many sell PE+ machines and parts. Let them know you are from NLG and they will treat you well.
We have the manual in our download section, you need to be a contributing member for access.
-
I finally received all my parts, got the new battery installed, fired it up and could not get past the hopper test, found out I had quarters stuck in the payout chute! Cleared and cleaned that reinstalled and got it going! :thank_you: Got to replace some burnt out bulbs and figure out why my bill validator won't accept bills all the time. Probably needs cleaning anybody have any tips on that??? It's a DBV 145
Thanks for everyone's help and input!
Here is a picture of the old battery, I think it was about shot!
-
Is your Bill Validator Bezel Lit ?? if not you will probably need to run a Set Chip.
Check out Ricks FAQs on the NLG home page (bottom right) about the use of the Set Chip.
Its the same procedure for both S+ (slot) and PE+ poker.
-
The concept is similar, but the steps are a little different between the S+ and PE+. Here are the directions on how to use a SET chip to enable the bill validator on your PE+ machine:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=334.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=334.0)
Note that the DBV-145 is a very old validator -- for testing use only $1 bills in good condition, as newer bills likely will not be recognized.
-
Just getting time to get back on this project. The bill validator bezel is lit and it will accept bills, but it will not accept every bill or even the same bill twice. I have wiped it down with a mild mixture of dish soap and water, I ordered and just received alcohol free cleaning strips for bill validators and ran one through a couple times and it seems worse now! I would just like to have a working validator as a way to add several credits at a time instead of plugging quarters all the time. I also saw somewhere about upgrading to a DBV 200, what all does that entail as I am a total rookie with this stuff!
Thanks, Dave
-
You can get a calibration paper. That will help.
You pop it in. It calibrates etc.
The upgrade to a 200 is a simple head swap. One thumb screw.
You also need to swap the power supply. As the 200 draws more amps.
-
Get the upgrade head (200) it’s worth the cost.
The 145 will never take anything other than the $1 bill.
-
check to see if your power supply for the dbv has vents in the outer casing, if so then you have the latest supply and it will work for a 200 head.
you will need a 200 SS head, with ID023 protocol, it will take most bills , will not take the new five or 100.
I have those available.
Jim
-
check to see if your power supply for the dbv has vents in the outer casing, if so then you have the latest supply and it will work for a 200 head.
you will need a 200 SS head, with ID023 protocol, it will take most bills , will not take the new five or 100.
I have those available.
Jim
I will check out the power supply tonight and see what i got.
-
This the power supply, looks to be the newer from what I am reading. I am going to look at a couple things I read today. But will probably be looking at upgrading to the 200.
-
This the power supply, looks to be the newer from what I am reading. I am going to look at a couple things I read today. But will probably be looking at upgrading to the 200.
I would get a 200 from Jim.
-
Just to follow up on this topic, bought a bill validator(DBV200) from Jim @ Midwest slots, still have the problem, after talking with Jim he determined it had to be the transport. Sent me out a replacement transport and I am happy to report it is working!!!!!
Big shout out to Jim, he went above and beyond helping me out!!! Thank you so much!!! :thank_you:
-
Jim is awesome! Glad to hear you got it working.