New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: jonbbrew on November 11, 2022, 05:06:09 PM
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Hello all,
Just picked up a non-working Splus RWB machine. Lights power up and bill validator cycles then nothing. I read where it could be power not getting to board. I checked fuses with a meter and they are good. Can hear humming start and stop when fuses installed and taken out. Also checked pins in back to board that everyone states are a weak point in these machines. No burn marks. Cleaned pins Pushed on well, but nothing. No reel spins or display showing. Reels are free so no power to those either. What is next?
CORRECTION: Sorry i am new at this...Wheels are getting power and tighten up when powering on, but nothing after...
Will say that they didn't have reset key so unable to try that, unless i cross the wires, but havent read that will do anything until reels activate. True?
Any help appreciated.
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Remove the MPU board (with power off of course) and post a picture of it. Pics here have to be less than 1MB, so resize if necessary to get under that limitation.
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Thanks for the help. I’m puzzled.
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Hello,
Trying to get new to me S+ RWB running. On power/boot up...Bill Validator and front tubes light, as well as reels stiffen but do not spin. Connector and fuses good. What next?
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Reposting with different subject as it is pulling a very faint 21 code.
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Hello all,
Still trying to figure out this new to me machine. Powering/booting up reels firm, no spin. I missed it at first but very faint 21 error code. Looking at other posts i ran across this diagram where it said 24 volts should be at pin 4. Not nearly that much but cant recall exact number. I can get that if it makes a difference but far from 24. Checked continuity of ground and it appears good. What next?
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here is the diagram i was reading about...
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21 is coin in optics.
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21 is coin in optics.
Yes that is where i am focusing. That is the pin diagram for the power to the CC. As far as what are all of the issues i can check, that's where i am knowledgeless and need help.
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Coin in optics board is right below the CC. Clean the 3 sensors first.
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Coin in optics board is right below the CC. Clean the 3 sensors first.
how do i get to them? I can see where the coin moves through but dont see how to get it off to clean.
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Remove the CC and you will find two screws. You have to remove the plate the CC clips onto. You can try to clean it with a qtip after removing the CC without removing the plate. Do NOT use alcohol on sensors.
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Remove the CC and you will find two screws. You have to remove the plate the CC clips onto. You can try to clean it with a qtip after removing the CC without removing the plate. Do NOT use alcohol on sensors.
thanks i will give that a try shortly That alone could clear a 21?
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Yes it could. It also could need replaced or be a pin/wire on its harness. Always open/close door a few times to see if error clears.
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Yes it could. It also could need replaced or be a pin/wire on its harness. Always open/close door a few times to see if error clears.
What would make the LCD be faint?
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Do you get anything on the display?
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With the power switch OFF, ( always turn off the power when working on these machines) pull out the 3 fuses one at a time, and put back in so you don't mix them up.
What are the amperage of each one?
They should be...>>>
6A
8A
6A
From top to bottom, on front of the power supply box.
I cannot see your SP and SS chips too clearly in their sockets in the photo you submitted.
They appear to be in the correct orientation, but it's not that clear.
Let's see what's written on the labels on top of the chips.
It would be good to see if there's any legs folded under the chip body.
Also, the dip switches on the right.
Usually dip switches numbered 1-4 are push downwards in the ON position, while 5-8 are upwards in the OFF position for home use...It's not that important tho.
It sounds like you're getting power to the reels....so that's a good thing.
Fiddle around with the display connector...maybe its loose?
Which display do you have? The long one or the short one?
Can you give us a photo of the back of the display ?
Esp. where the connectors are?
They should be just on top of the back panel and black plastic.
We'll help you get your machine running for sure.
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Bunker, he's got three different topics started now for this same machine. Maybe you can merge them all together and get rid of the duplicate/un-necessary stuff?
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=37746.0
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=37741.0
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merged. I left the topics, so it will be easier to follow.
Thanks,
Wayne
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Do you get anything on the display?
21
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With the power switch OFF, ( always turn off the power when working on these machines) pull out the 3 fuses one at a time, and put back in so you don't mix them up.
What are the amperage of each one?
They should be...>>>
6A
8A
6A
From top to bottom, on front of the power supply box.
I cannot see your SP and SS chips too clearly in their sockets in the photo you submitted.
They appear to be in the correct orientation, but it's not that clear.
Let's see what's written on the labels on top of the chips.
It would be good to see if there's any legs folded under the chip body.
Also, the dip switches on the right.
Usually dip switches numbered 1-4 are push downwards in the ON position, while 5-8 are upwards in the OFF position for home use...It's not that important tho.
It sounds like you're getting power to the reels....so that's a good thing.
Fiddle around with the display connector...maybe its loose?
Which display do you have? The long one or the short one?
Can you give us a photo of the back of the display ?
Esp. where the connectors are?
They should be just on top of the back panel and black plastic.
We'll help you get your machine running for sure.
I’ll check these things and get back to you. I appreciate it. Looking forward to having this running so I can rest assured to move forward with the cosmetic items.
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Thanks for merging mopar!
A [21] showing on the display is pointing to a coin-in optics error.
Might just blow some compressed air down there into the coin guide under the coin-in optics board to try and get some lint out or dismantle the unit and clean thoroughly.
There's 3 holes in the black plastics (encoders) that need to be clear of any debris so the optic eyes can "see" each other.
One really is an emitter optic while the other is a receiver optic.
The coins dropped go through the encoders sandwiched between the circuit boards and eyes.
Below is some pictures of the coin-in optics circuit boards.
Click on any photo to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Also, the dip switches on the right.
Usually dip switches numbered 1-4 are push downwards in the ON position, while 5-8 are upwards in the OFF position for home use...It's not that important tho.
Can you please explain the settings?
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Dip switch configurations should be on a label on your door panel...if it hasn't fallen off.
Let me know if you find it.
If not, I can look for a sheet on it for you.
Meanwhile, here's a .pdf sheet you can use your multimeter on to check for voltages for the small display.
If it's too complicated for you, disregard, as you did not answer what display you have on your machine or provide a better photo of what chips you have installed...>>>
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Dip switch configurations should be on a label on your door panel...if it hasn't fallen off.
Let me know if you find it.
If not, I can look for a sheet on it for you.
Meanwhile, here's a .pdf sheet you can use your multimeter on to check for voltages for the small display.
If it's too complicated for you, disregard, as you did not answer what display you have on your machine or a better photo of what chips you have installed....>>>
The door panel label lists error codes. The label on the MPU tray lists dip switch settings. Some SP chips are not affected by the dip switch settings. Refer to the PSR for your particular SP chip.
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You're right RB...Those labels on the door and MPU do fall off sometimes.
I'd forgotten which was which. :duh:
I see that his display is now showing a [21] error.
I think I explained earlier ways in how to clear it.
Anyways, here's the sheet on the dips that's usually on the MPU tray...like I said, it wasn't important.
Dips 5-8 are just for progressive displays.
He needs to clear the [21] error first...>>>
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Thanks for merging mopar!
A [21] showing on the display is pointing to a coin-in optics error.
Might just blow some compressed air down there into the coin guide under the coin-in optics board to try and get some lint out or dismantle the unit and clean thoroughly.
There's 3 holes in the black plastics (encoders) that need to be clear of any debris so the optic eyes can "see" each other.
One really is an emitter optic while the other is a receiver optic.
The coins dropped go through the encoders sandwiched between the circuit boards and eyes.
Below is some pictures of the coin-in optics circuit boards.
Click on any photo to enlarge if needed...>>>
OK got it taken apart cleaned and put back together still the same error. Doesn’t go away when I open or close the door. All the connections look good. Not sure what my next step would be to replace the little board? Tried to put credits on it with that little button and it didn’t work either so maybe that little board is shot?
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It sounds like you're getting power to the reels....so that's a good thing.
Fiddle around with the display connector...maybe its loose?
Which display do you have? The long one or the short one?
Can you give us a photo of the back of the display ?
Esp. where the connectors are?
They should be just on top of the back panel and black plastic.
We'll help you get your machine running for sure.
Here you go but still cannot get 21 to clear.
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Well slight update. After a few power on and offs the 21 code is now gone, but the 3100 is there. Plus my test/menu button is still not doing anything. Like i mentioned before my reset switch was drilled out by someone before me. I can jump it but not sure how that will help me current.
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nothing will work on the machine UNTIL YOU GET RID OF THE 21 CODE, I don't think you can get into the diagnostic mode ( press the white test button near the on/ off switch).
there was an old post on the old site, slot doctor or slottic, where they wanted to make the s plus coin free, I came up with a way to make a jumper to do away with the entire cc-16 bracket and harness. the jumper is similiar to the one used on s-2000, However I do not remember which three pins we jumped together, this would eliminate all those possible components and give you some direction as to where the problem actually might be.
you could actually have a door optic issue that is not clearing the code 21, if the door optics are not working you will never clear any code!
is the cash can switch bypassed?
Hope this helps
Jim
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you can hang the wires outside the cabinet hole for now and attach a on/off switch or push button switch until you get the right part, you need that switch action when clearing a 61 code!
Jim
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nothing will work on the machine UNTIL YOU GET RID OF THE 21 CODE, I don't think you can get into the diagnostic mode ( press the white test button near the on/ off switch).
there was an old post on the old site, slot doctor or slottic, where they wanted to make the s plus coin free, I came up with a way to make a jumper to do away with the entire cc-16 bracket and harness. the jumper is similiar to the one used on s-2000, However I do not remember which three pins we jumped together, this would eliminate all those possible components and give you some direction as to where the problem actually might be.
you could actually have a door optic issue that is not clearing the code 21, if the door optics are not working you will never clear any code!
is the cash can switch bypassed?
Hope this helps
Jim
21 is gone now 3100. Still no reel spin.
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there was an old post on the old site, slot doctor or slottic, where they wanted to make the s plus coin free, I came up with a way to make a jumper to do away with the entire cc-16 bracket and harness. the jumper is similiar to the one used on s-2000, However I do not remember which three pins we jumped together, this would eliminate all those possible components and give you some direction as to where the problem actually might be.
Yes, it was different than the S2000 bypass.
This was one way to bypass the coin comparitor on an S+.
Another way is to wire together pins 2, 4, 6, and 10.
Pull off the coin comparitor harness and replace with this modified Molex plug-in.
Click on photo to enlarge if needed...>>>
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21 is gone now 3100. Still no reel spin.
[3100] is an error code that means an extra coin went thru the hopper optics.
Open and close door once to remove that error code.
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21 is gone now 3100. Still no reel spin.
[3100] is an error code that means an extra coin went thru the hopper optics.
Open and close door once to remove that error code.
Several times no change.
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Try cleaning the hopper optics. Does the code go blank for a second when you close the door? It may still be in open door mode.
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Try cleaning the hopper optics. Does the code go blank for a second when you close the door? It may still be in open door mode.
No door does not make code ho away or change at all.
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You are still in open door mode. Code 3100 will not clear until you get in closed door mode. Check the BV door switch and bypass it if not already by passed. The main door optics may need cleaned, re-aligned or replaced also.
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jonbbrew,
When you close the door, do you push the door latch all the way down?
Slowly move the door latch up and down while watching the display.
It should momentarily go out then come back on.
If you can get it to go out for a couple of seconds, then you know the emitter door optic and receiver cabinet optics aren't lined up in their respective mounts correctly to "see" each other when the door latch is a fully closed position.
There is a way to visually check one of the optics.
With a phone camera, you can view the door emitter optic and see if some infrared light is flickering from the (lens) diode.
Of course, you can't see anything come out of the cabinet receiver optic as it is a "receiver".....it doesn't emit light of any kind.
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jonbbrew,
When you close the door, do you push the door latch all the way down?
Slowly move the door latch up and down while watching the display.
It should momentarily go out then come back on.
If you can get it to go out for a couple of seconds, then you know the emitter door optic and receiver cabinet optics aren't lined up in their respective mounts correctly to "see" each other when the door latch is a fully closed position.
Clarify.....can or cant get the display to go out? So in otherwords, the optics are working if it will flash when closing the door?
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Yes, display will go blank for a second if optics are working. If there is no change door optics are not working.
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Since the door is in an "Open" state, the "Service Credit" button should have put credits on your machine when you tried it in Reply #27.
BUT...you have a hopper code [3100] with an open door.
That means someone played a game while the door was open and the hopper paid out one extra coin.
To get rid of that code, the door still has to be closed.
Have you tried to see if the door emitter optic is putting out an infrared light beam while viewing with a camera?
Power up the machine and look at it with the camera on your cellphone.
1st picture is the door emitter OFF.
The 2nd picture is the door emitter ON.
It looked to be slightly purplish in color when I took a photo of it for you.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Since the door is in an "Open" state, the "Service Credit" button should have put credits on your machine when you tried it in Reply #27.
BUT...you have a hopper code [3100] with an open door.
That means someone played a game while the door was open and the hopper paid out one extra coin.
To get rid of that code, the door still has to be closed.
Have you tried to see if the door emitter optic is putting out an infrared light beam while viewing with a camera?
Power up the machine and look at it with the camera on your cellphone.
1st picture is the door emitter OFF.
The 2nd picture is the door emitter ON.
It looked to be slightly purplish in color when I took a photo of it for you.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
Yeah i tried that but did not see anything...
Also, new status....I checked the cash box door and taped down the switch there so it would ensure its closed. Then when i powered back on again, there is now no display at all. I did notice it was dim from my experience with other machines, but now nothing is showing.
This machine is really giving me a run for its money.
I am wondering if i should just buy a new board and start from there?
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Taping down that small cash box switch doesn't ensure that there's continuity in that line - the switch itself could be bad.
Best way is to cut the two ( light green?) wires, strip the ends and twist them together with an electrical cap or electrical tape...caps work better than tape tho.
There also may be another switch that works in parallel with the cash box door switch...it would be located behind the frame on the top left of the belly glass door as you swing it down.
Make sure that switch is in a closed state too - or cut the wires and twist them together like the cash box door switch.
Without you verifying with a multimeter that there's continuity in that line, you cannot be sure of it just by taping a switch lever together.
Although it's not a bad idea to have a working spare MPU, going out and buying an expensive MPU board might not fix anything...try these suggestions 1st...a lot less expensive!
You need to try to make sure it's not the optics before buying an MPU.
The door emitter optic: You stated...>>> " i tried that but did not see anything.."
This sounds like either you're NOT getting any power to the door emitter optic or it's burned out.
You might wanna get a spare set of door optics to try.
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Got back tinkering around with machine. For sure power to bill validator, glass lights, .25 cent panel light, and reels firm with power. Still nothing more. No other displays or errors. No reset clock so connecting wires with jumper does nothing. Pushing test button nothing, pushing coin credit button nothing, door closing doesnt change anything.
Changed out board with working machine, no different.
What next as i want to buy cosmetic parts, but do not want to on a dead machine that is too costly to get running?
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You need working door optics, until then you will get nowhere.
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Yes i just dont really know if they are working or not. I tried the camera tip but i cant see anything different than that of my working machine.
I wasnt aware that the door optics would keep the display board, test button and reset switch useless. I hate to mess much more with my good machine, but i guess i could switch out the optics and see.
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If you get no display at all something else is wrong. Sounds like problem with SS, SP chip or MPU board.
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If you get no display at all something else is wrong. Sounds like problem with SS, SP chip or MPU board.
Yeah, thats why i put in the board from my other machine and same result. Now, didnt put the questionable board into my working machine. That may give me more clues as if the display works, etc. then maybe the display is off or something. Perhaps it will show also if the optics are an issue. I am really stumped.
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Have you tried to see if the door emitter optic is putting out an infrared light beam while viewing with a camera?
Power up the machine and look at it with the camera on your cellphone.
1st picture is the door emitter OFF.
The 2nd picture is the door emitter ON.
It looked to be slightly purplish in color when I took a photo of it for you.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
To clarify and confirm, the one to check with the camera is NOT the one with the glass on it? The one that is "projecting" is the one that looks more empty?
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Not all optics are the same or made by the same company.
IGT had these things made in Mexico as well as in the States....these optics are diodes really.
So without you posting a picture, I don't want to guess what you mean by "glass" or "more empty" :rotfl: :24:
BOTH optics have "glass" and if you'll notice, the door emitter, and cabinet receiver optics have different colored wires too.
The door emitter optic is on the door....that's the one you want to view with a camera.
The receiver optic is on the right side of the reel shelf in the cabinet near the latch...it receives infrared light and doesn't emit any light at all.
Offhand, I cannot remember if the way to see if a receiver optic is any good would be to unplug the Molex connections to it and use a multimeter on the two housing pins - checking for ohms/continuity.
If there's no continuity in the multimeter loop you make, that would mean the receiver optic is burned out?
That's my guess...I just never tried to see if the receiver cabinet optic was any good....I'd let others comment on that.
I would like to add that I've never had a burned out receiver optic as well - other than one that had a broken wire.