New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: DanTheMan on March 06, 2016, 08:59:07 PM
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When a jackpot is won, the game locks up and the music plays until the jackpot reset key is turned. Then, the amount of the hand pay is subtracted from the credits and the game is allowed to resume. I saw that there is an optional "Jackpot to Credits" key switch that presumably does not subtract the hand pay amount, so the jackpot win stays on the accumulated credits. Since we're not playing for money and aren't issuing W-2Gs or doing cash hand pays, this sounds like the best way to go for at home play.
My machine does not have the 2nd key. Has anybody added this optional switch and can give some advice? If it's as simple as drill a hole, install a key switch and connect a couple of wires, I'd like to do it. Anybody have these parts available?
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A few days ago someone had a machine with an extra switch that was putting the jackpot award to credits and they were wondering about it. I think the answer went something like this: on some High Limit area slot machines they sometimes have that extra switch so the player can simply put the jackpot to his credits to avoid creating a handpay and IRS paperwork delay. On machines with large denom play, like a $100 machine, this could be really desirable.
But I don't know if it can be added to just any machine, it may take special software game eproms to be installed. Have you tried going thru the various setting preferences on your machine to see if it has a setting for this?
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Yes, I've see it in action at a casino, but did not notice at the time that there were two separate key switches. On a $100 video poker, even a 3 of a kind generates a hand pay, so it's certainly needed in order to not slow the game down terribly. The attendant had a clipboard and had the player initial each line as the W2s were being racked up. I think it would be a nice feature to have on a home machine, too.
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Here is that other thread that brought up the JP to Credits switch a few days ago:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=10281.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=10281.0)
Perhaps the machine owner could look inside and report where the extra JP switch wires are routed to and if his machine has a setup option for that feature, or it is done by connecting the extra switch's wires to a particular set of backplane pins?
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Here's a wiring diagram for the second jackpot reset switch. I don't know if it will work with all games, or just hi-denomination game versions.
You could also increase your jackpot limit so all payouts go to credits if you don't want to mess with a switch.
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Not sure if it helps, I have the 19" with 5.0 installed (thanks Tilt for pointing that out) and I went into the Setup screen and found where I can set the limits up to $100,000. No hand pays, no slips, at least until I hit the cash out button.
Steve
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I was able to track down where a 2nd switch would need to be physically connected, according to the wiring diagram, thanks Tilt. It's pin 13 A on a female connector, where the I/O board gets plugged into. That pin position is currently empty. So what kind of connector pins are needed to add a 22 gauge wire that connector? Are there special tools needed to insert / extract these pins? I think I have a good understanding of the other parts needed to complete the rest of the project.
The whole point of this is to lock up the machine and play the happy music when somebody hits a jackpot, just like in the casino. But, instead of hand-paying, we're just playing for fun, so the idea is to leave the jackpot on the credit meter, so they can keep playing.
I have hit a jackpot in a casino, while betting the very last of my credits. After being hand paid, they always ask you to play another hand while they observe, so the jackpot is no longer displayed. There was a brief moment of hesitation, when I pointed out that I no longer had any credits. They decided that if they added a credit for me to play it off, I couldn't win, so I just put more money in and kept playing.
Reminds me of a time a lady next to me was dealt 4 aces and she excitedly held all 5 cards and pressed draw. Since it was a triple play, it was a 800 X 3 win and a hand pay. While she was waiting, I pointed out to her that she could have just held the aces and perhaps drawn a kicker (2-4) and won even more. She thanked me for the advice. When her money arrived, they asked her to play another hand to clear the jackpot. On that subsequent hand, she was dealt 2 Aces and wouldn't you know it, the draw was A-A-2 for back to back jackpots.
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I think this is the pin used in that connector. You could probably get away with crimping it with a pair of needle nose pliers or possibly even a bit of solder. Order some extras to practice with.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/HARTING/09020008484/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMud62t8luTOJgh0ATo0pMFISZiGhCvmYmM%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/HARTING/09020008484/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMud62t8luTOJgh0ATo0pMFISZiGhCvmYmM%3d)
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Thanks for that info. The insertion & removal tools for these would set me back about $75. The crimp tool is $373. Can't see doing that. I suppose if the wire is stiff enough and I get it crimped right the first time, I might get lucky enough to do without the insertion or extraction tools. But, my experience says the crimp has to be done properly or the pin won't usually fit into the limited space. If anybody already has some of these female pins and can crimp one onto an 8 foot piece of 22 gauge wire, and sell it to me, that would be great!
More research on this topic found the following attachment. I couldn't find anything more about this particular part number that is mentioned, but looking at the picture, it disagrees with the wiring diagram. The diagram shows that closing the 2nd Reset SW would connect two input signals together. In the picture in the attachment, the yellow/green wire (presumably ground) routes to both switches, instead of the black/red wire, so each switch, when activated, grounds one of the two input signals. This makes more sense to me. Did IGT make a mistake on the drawing?
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I'll dig around in my spare parts. At one time I had a wiring harness for a S2000 and could probably remove a pin/wire from the I/O card connector and send it to you. The wire wouldn't be 8' long, but you could solder/heat shrink another one to it to get the length you need.
Kiesubs drawing & picture is for a S2000 2nd reset switch and for whatever reason the wiring is the opposite on a Game King/Igame. What you're doing is taking the ground from the existing jackpot reset switch and splitting it off to the new switch (blk/red wire GK, Yel/Grn S2000). Then running a new wire from the other side of the switch to pin 13A on the cabinet I/O card which is inside the cabinet on the left hand side. If you have a GK without the upper button deck then it's the only I/O card in the cabinet.
When you turn the switch you're applying a ground to pin 13A through the new switch via the ground on the original switch.
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Success! Send me a PM with your address and I'll mail it to you in the morning.
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Why don't you just raise the jackpot limit of the machine above the game's jackpot amount.
Remember you can only do it with zero credits on the machine
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Why don't you just raise the jackpot limit of the machine above the game's jackpot amount.
Remember you can only do it with zero credits on the machine
See reply #6.
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That just does not sound correct for IGT games.
I don't have much experience with game kings but did Dan try to set limits with credits on the game.
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I understand raising the jackpot limit, but I want the game to stop and play the music, so everybody can enjoy, just like in a casino. But I don't want to erase the credits that in a casino would have been paid by hand.
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Yes, I think the "Y" connector is for the ground to be shared to both keys, not quite like the Kiesub diagram shows. The picture on Page 2 is pretty clear about that. The IGT diagram shows the Black/Red wire being shared by the two switches, but I can't imagine that's correct.
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I understand raising the jackpot limit, but I want the game to stop and play the music, so everybody can enjoy, just like in a casino. But I don't want to erase the credits that in a casino would have been paid by hand.
OK that makes sense.
Not sure this will help I believe I have two machines (IGT reel) that still have these high limit switches installed and wired. I never tried or used them so I don't know if they work ( I also don't have the key).
I can verify any connections for you when I get home from work today.
Rich
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Yes, I think the "Y" connector is for the ground to be shared to both keys, not quite like the Kiesub diagram shows. The picture on Page 2 is pretty clear about that. The IGT diagram shows the Black/Red wire being shared by the two switches, but I can't imagine that's correct.
Actually IGT's drawing is correct for a GK/I-game. The Black/Red wire is the GND and it's what should be split and ran to the second switch. I corrected my previous post.
Here's another drawing that shows the signals on P11. You can also verify that the blk/red is a ground signal with a multimeter. Put one lead on it and the other to any interior metal surface and it will read 0 ohms.
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I understand raising the jackpot limit, but I want the game to stop and play the music, so everybody can enjoy, just like in a casino. But I don't want to erase the credits that in a casino would have been paid by hand.
OK that makes sense.
Not sure this will help I believe I have two machines (IGT reel) that still have these high limit switches installed and wired. I never tried or used them so I don't know if they work ( I also don't have the key).
I can verify any connections for you when I get home from work today.
Rich
Your post reminded me that I have an S2000 with the second reset switch as well. So I went and looked at the wiring on it and it matched the Kiesub information Dan posted. I checked the Yel/Grn wire, and sure enough it is the ground wire on a S2000. I looked at the S2000 reset switch drawing and saw that the S2000 uses different pins on P11 (6 & 7 S2000, 7 & 8 GK/I-game) and the wiring color is the opposite, so that's the reason for the discrepancy. The drawing Dan posted is correct for a S2000, the drawing I posted is correct for a GK/I-game. Attached is the S2000 reset switch wiring diagram.
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Yes, the continuity test indicates that Black/Red is indeed the ground, not the yellow/green. Great investigative work, Tilt. Thanks.
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Summary:
I was able to successfully add the Jackpot to Credits key switch and it works exactly as I expected and wanted it to. This switch allows me to set the jackpot limit to the customary $1199.99, which when exceeded, the game will lock up, flash the candle and play a congratulatory song. In a casino, this also means signing a W2G (boo!) and getting paid in cash by hand (yay!). At home, we don't play for real money, so there are no W2Gs or hand pays, but I still want the machine to simulate that casino experience. The Jackpot to Credit or 2nd reset switch is used in the casinos on high denomination machines, where jackpots are quite frequent. Rather than hand pay, which requires an attendant to retrieve the cash from the cashier and deliver it to the player, the 2nd reset switch allows the attendant to just record the event for the eventual creation of a single W2G for the entire session, while leaving the jackpot credits on the credit meter, so the player can continue. For home use, this 2nd key is the ideal solution.
There are a few attachments already in the above discussion that are very helpful (thanks, everyone) and need not be repeated here. But, I have a few more details to add:
Parts:
- Need a standard jackpot reset keyswitch (standard slot machine part available from many of the vendors who support this forum. Thank you.)
- One wishbone or "Y" adapter to split the ground signal that is shared by both reset switches. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/61765-2/A27891-ND/290265 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/61765-2/A27891-ND/290265)
- A few (only 3 if you don't screw up) crimp terminal connectors http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/2-520183-2/A27817CT-ND/385291 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/2-520183-2/A27817CT-ND/385291)
- 22 gauge wire
- Connector pin for the I/O board socket (I was provided this pin with a wire already crimped onto it. Thanks, Tilt.) He also provided a URL link to this part in the above discussion, which thanks to his generosity, I did not have to purchase and so cannot confirm.
Do the install with the machine power OFF.
Pull out the cabinet I/O board and unscrew the two screws holding the board's connector to the machine frame. Insert the special pin into the I/O board connector socket at the empty hole, 13 A. The rows and columns on this connector are clearly marked, so make sure you're in the right place. When oriented properly, a tab on the pin will click into place and lock the pin into the connector. Unless you have the right extraction tool to push the locking pin out of the way, it's going to be difficult to back it out, so make sure of the location.
To verify that it is working correctly, turn on the power and with no credits press the operator button to get to the Setup menu. Go to Machine Options -> W2-G Setup. (Picture) You'll get a pop-up that says "Turn Credit Reset Key". (Picture) Well, we don't have one of those, yet, but if you touch the wire you just installed to a anywhere on the metal framework, it should be recognized and allow you to get to the next page. (Picture) There, you get another setting, "Upper Jackpot Limit", where 100,000 is the max and works for me. Exit and power OFF.
I needed to splice another piece of wire onto the newly installed wire to make it reach across the width of the machine and up to where the new switch would go. A twist, a drop of solder and some heat shrink tubing did the job nicely. Attach one of the crimp terminals to the end of the extended wire, and route it across the inside of the machine to the right side, near the reset switch. The existing wire bundles on my machine were pretty tight, so rather than try to fish the wire through the existing bundles, I just added a few more zip ties around them and the new wire.
You're going to need to drill a hole with flat sides to insert the key switch. Well, maybe not. I used a 3/4" hole saw, which of course gives you a round hole, not flat. (Picture) Pull the screen out of the machine first, to give yourself room to work. I drilled from the outside-in and stuck a few pieces of painters tape onto the inside of the cabinet to try and limit the amount of shavings flying around inside. Make a pilot mark on the right side of the cabinet with a punch or a nail to give the drill bit a place to settle into. The hole goes directly below the existing reset key switch, a couple inches down.
Install the 2nd key switch, by inserting it from the outside, through the hole and tighten the nut. Since the hole that was created is round, the switch body can rotate inside the hole, so make sure there's a lock washer and tighten it down sufficiently. I suggest orienting the switch so the key slot is vertical and facing the same way as the existing switch. On mine, the number on the key is visible when inserted into either one.
Identify which one of the wires on the existing reset switch are connected to ground. A continuity tester or ohm meter between the switch terminal and metal frame does the job. On my machine it was the Black/Red wire, but trust the continuity test. On yours it could be the Yellow/Green. The ground needs to be shared by both switches, so make a short jumper wire to reach from one switch to the other and crimp a connector onto each end. Pull the ground wire off of the existing switch and insert the "Y" piece in it's place. Now you have two spade terminals for ground, one is for the wire you just pulled off and the other is for the jumper. The other end of the jumper connects to the new switch you just installed and the the wire from the I/O board slides on to the other terminal of the new switch. (Picture)
To try it out, repeat the W2-G setup menu, this time turn the key when prompted and you should be given access. It works! Now play some high denomination game and see if you can get a jackpot and hear the happy music. Watch your credits, turn the 2nd key and the game should stop the music and resume play with your credits untouched!
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Excellent follow-up report, good job! :cool_thumb_up:
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Dan,
Great job good information by all.
Moderator you might want to pair this down a little and sticky it for both Game King and S2000.
Rich
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Congratulations Dan! Glad you were able to get it working the way you want it and thanks for the detailed write up!
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I am getting ready to do this modification and have one question. When adding the wire to the I/O board plug I am a little confused. From what I can see in the manuals / schematics there's two I/O boards. Door I/O and Machine Enclosure I/O board.
Which am I going to be going to?
And thank you all for researching / posting this info!
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The Cabinet I/O board. It's the one on the left wall of the machine. If you have two I/O cards on the inside of the cabinet, it's the board on the left.
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The Cabinet I/O board. It's the one on the left wall of the machine. If you have two I/O cards on the inside of the cabinet, it's the board on the left.
Got it, the smaller one. Photo attached for future reference.
I'm going to look at a schematic and see if I can rob a wire out of one of these plugs to use.
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If i'm not mistaken, it's not a second or 3rd key that's needed.
You simply need to change the settings to allow jackpots to go to the credit meter.
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There is definitely a key (or momentary switch) required. It is known as a high roller key and was used in high denomination machines since every win would be over the $1200 W2G requirement forcing a hand pay. With the high roller key the attendant would come over, record the data for the W2G pay, turn the key and the player could continue with the credits remaining on the machine. Remember if you turn the jackpot key the credits zero out. If you turn the high roller key the music stops the credits remain and normal play continues.