New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: jonbbrew on January 09, 2023, 02:54:09 PM
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Hello all,
First, thank you to those that continue to educate and help me on this newer hobby over the past year or so.
I have posted before trying to get my SPlus RWB machine fired up but nothing is working. Here are the facts as i know them....
-Lights, bill validator and stiff reels power up]
-Nothing on the front panel
-No reel spins
-I checked the fuses and one was blown when received the machine so it was replaced. Confirmed rest with meter
-I checked white molex plug but no burnt areas. Unplugged and replugged many times. I can hear power supply change and reels power and go free.
-No reset lock as PO drilled it out apparently. Made jumper but nothing occurs.
-Pressed test button but nothing
-Changed in a working board from slant top but nothing
-Put questionable board into slant top and shows a 61 error, but haven't figured out how to clear it to get it to run all the way. I don't think i have any clear chips as i have read about them but know nothing about using them as i heard it was a last resort. No error codes of anykind showed on RWB cabinet as nothing ever came up on display. I will post picture of chip set in case there is something wrong there.
So now what? Looks like i have 2 issues...
What could i look at with nonworking cabinet?
What to do to see if i can get questionable board fired up on slant top to ensure its ok?
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Here is the chip set
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When you get 61 on slant top push test button until it dings and turns to 61_1 then close the door and turn J/P key one time and wait for reels to spin.
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The Stiff wheels says your power molex is good.
Open the door - hit the white test button a few times, close the door, Do the reels spin ? and the insert coin light come on ?
Let us know on this one.
If the insert coin light is on but not taking coins - let us know, but pls let us know what happens when you do the above.
Regarding the 61 error on you other machine - go to the NLG home page, see RICKS FAQ on the procedure to clear the 61.
Bottom right of the page - you will also see the SET and CLEAR procedures there.
Its the norm to see this after a "game change"which is escentially what you have done by swapping boards.
61, becomes a 61-1 and then clears and the game is ready to play.
Often after a battery change (error 12) - you get the 61, then a 61-1 then a 61 (repeat) etc... and you need to use a clear chip to resolve this. Doesn't sound like you have hit this issue so don't worry about the clear chip.
Let us know after you have followed Ricks procedure for a game
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When you get 61 on slant top push test button until it dings and turns to 61_1 then close the door and turn J/P key one time and wait for reels to spin.
Perfect! Thanks...So now that tells me the board on the RWB is fine. So what now what for the RWB cabinet to troubleshoot now that i know the board is fine?
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If you can tell us exactly WHICH fuse was blown, we can help you more.
Why?
Because a short made THAT fuse blow.
Let's hope there was a fast blow fuse in there rather than a slow blow fuse.
Check for burned out traces on the motherboard.
:burningresistor:
Top=6A
Middle=8A
Bottom=6A
Quick blow fuses ONLY.
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Try it again in rwb cabinet and see if you get a code.
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If you can tell us exactly WHICH fuse was blown, we can help you more.
Why?
Because a short made THAT fuse blow.
Let's hope there was a fast blow fuse in there rather than a slow blow fuse.
Check for burned out traces on the motherboard.
:burningresistor:
Top=6A
Middle=8A
Bottom=6A
Quick blow fuses ONLY.
It was the middle one...8A
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okay good...may I see what you replaced it with?
FYI That middle fuse basically controls power to the reel glass display panel, the coin comparitor, and the stepper reels.
It's not that easy to find the short that caused the middle 8A fuse to blow because of all the different areas of the achine that power line runs to.
I would remove the motherboard first and carefully inspect every trace...there's not that many.
Use your senses....Sniff around, SOMETHING will smelled burned out.
Look very carefully, something will looked browned out or blackened...does anything look blown up?
With that board in the slant, all devices work okay?
I'm talking the bill accptor, reels, normal gameplay,coin comparitor, smoke-clogged fan?
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The Stiff wheels says your power molex is good.
Open the door - hit the white test button a few times, close the door, Do the reels spin ? and the insert coin light come on ?
Let us know on this one.
If the insert coin light is on but not taking coins - let us know, but pls let us know what happens when you do the above.
Nothing...No reel spin, no insert coin light...
PS The little box that has the power switch and test switch only has 2 wires going into it. Is that what it is supposed to be?
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okay good...may I see what you replaced it with?
FYI That middle fuse basically controls power to the reel glass display panel, the coin comparitor, and the stepper reels.
It's not that easy to find the short that caused the middle 8A fuse to blow because of all the different areas of the achine that power line runs to.
I would remove the motherboard first and carefully inspect every trace...there's not that many.
Use your senses....Sniff around, SOMETHING will smelled burned out.
Look very carefully, something will looked browned out or blackened...does anything look blown up?
With that board in the slant, all devices work okay?
I'm talking the bill accptor, reels, normal gameplay,coin comparitor?
Yes, slant top worked just as previous, with the exception that the game did not match the glass but yes.
Switched back boards and slant top back to working as it should....they always looked good to me. Battery replaced at some point, no melting of anykind or battery acid anywhere.
I am no puzzled. New fuse still working no blows. So frustrated.
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Try it again in rwb cabinet and see if you get a code.
All put back and still nothing....I am now remembering that when i first got the machine a few months ago and was just trying to fire it up before i dug into it anymore there was a very faint 21 code, but then it went away after trying to reset it. Never did spin though...
Im just trying to understand the process of getting the board to fire up, unless that is happening due to the wheels being powered and what comes after the board to do the rest...
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You have validated both MPU boards as good. Good job.
When you open the door close the door the reels should spin.
If the door is not sensed closed it won’t spin. This usually means your door optics are dead.
Is the candle light flashing ?
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You have validated both MPU boards as good. Good job.
When you open the door close the door the reels should spin.
If the door is not sensed closed it won’t spin. This usually means your door optics are dead.
Is the candle light flashing ?
Thats part of the issue is i have some other cosmetic type things i want to do but not until i get it fired up to ensure it will work. The candle is crushed and broken and the top glass is cracked. Seems like the PO dropped it at one point or something else crashed into it. I have been debating on at least getting a candle on it so i can see if that will give me any clues.
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Now where do i go from here?
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If you think it was dropped the optics could easily be out of alignment or one price may have actually fell off.
One set is on the door, the other is on the chassis.
They need to match up when the door is closed.
You can see if the emitter works by using a cell phone camera.
You can’t see it with a naked eye but a camera will show it as a slight flashing.
The receiver you can’t test the same way as it accepts light not emits it.
If you’re not getting anything get yourself some new optics.
Glass is irrelevant but get yourself a candle or steal it off your other machine.
You can also take the optics off the door and chassis and put them back to back with a piece of electrical tape to simulate the door closed…
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I would disconnect the coin comparator and reels, then power up to see if the display comes up. the blown fuse, faint display and no display point in the direction of these or the display itself. also carefully check the wiring to these.
Thanks,
Wayne
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If you think it was dropped the optics could easily be out of alignment or one price may have actually fell off.
One set is on the door, the other is on the chassis.
They need to match up when the door is closed.
You can see if the emitter works by using a cell phone camera.
You can’t see it with a naked eye but a camera will show it as a slight flashing.
The receiver you can’t test the same way as it accepts light not emits it.
If you’re not getting anything get yourself some new optics.
Glass is irrelevant but get yourself a candle or steal it off your other machine.
You can also take the optics off the door and chassis and put them back to back with a piece of electrical tape to simulate the door closed…
Yeah i thought i tried to test the optics before but could never really get the camera trick to work even on working machine, but i can try again. But even if optics are not working or noticing door closing, wouldnt the display still show something?
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With the door open you can press the test button and various things will show up in the displays.
The slant that is working should behave the same. The door and optics are different but pretty much everything else is identical.
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With the door open you can press the test button and various things will show up in the displays.
The slant that is working should behave the same. The door and optics are different but pretty much everything else is identical.
Test button does nothing.
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The candle is crushed and broken and the top glass is cracked. Seems like the PO dropped it at one point or something else crashed into it. I have been debating on at least getting a candle on it so i can see if that will give me any clues.
Disconnect that candle in the topbox....there will be a white 4-pin Molex connector up in there with 3 wires (Red, Black, and Yellow).
It might have a dead short and the reason why your fuse blew.
Also, is your reel glass display connected?
There's two black plastic harness connectors...one sort of right of the coin comparitor, the other towards the door hinge end.
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The candle is crushed and broken and the top glass is cracked. Seems like the PO dropped it at one point or something else crashed into it. I have been debating on at least getting a candle on it so i can see if that will give me any clues.
Disconnect that candle in the topbox....there will be a white 4-pin Molex connector up in there with 3 wires (Red, Black, and Yellow).
It might have a dead short and the reason why your fuse blew.
Also, is your reel glass display connected?
There's two black plastic harness connectors...one sort of right of the coin comparitor, the other towards the door hinge end.
Yes i disconnected candle when i first started initially started working on it. I will have to check display connections again, but i feel i went through all of them before to ensure nothing obvious.
I have new door optics on order just in case its that, but even if those were not sensing door being closed the display should still light up right?
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You know...why not borrow the door optics from the slant for now and see they light up the display?
You have known good parts on that other machine to try to get this one working to narrow down and pinpoint the problem.
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You know...why not borrow the door optics from the slant for now and see they light up the display?
You have known good parts on that other machine to try to get this one working to narrow down and pinpoint the problem.
Yeah thought about it. Hate to screw up alignment of a good machine. But I’ll
Probably do that.
But if the board is good what’s stopping booting on machine? Puzzling
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Trying everything to figure out why machine won’t fire.
Are these supposed to be connected somehow?
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No...the colors will be the same (Green and Yellow).
It's hooked up correctly.
Did you ever remove your motherboard and look underneath?
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No...the colors will be the same (Green and Yellow).
It's hooked up correctly.
Did you ever remove your motherboard and look underneath?
Motherboard you mean the main board? Yes, i swapped it into a working machine and worked just fine. So my next stab in the dark was to see if there is a schematic i can see so i can figure out why its not booting or at least if it is, its not getting that info to the reels or display.
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The MPU is the removeable main board.
The motherboard is the small fixed board that the MPU plugs into.
Mark - is suggesting that you remove that board to see if there is anything stuck under it like a coin that may have caused your blown fuse and while it’s out we will inspect it for damage like burnt traces, loose connectors etc.
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The MPU is the removeable main board.
The motherboard is the small fixed board that the MPU plugs into.
Mark - is suggesting that you remove that board to see if there is anything stuck under it like a coin that may have caused your blown fuse and while it’s out we will inspect it for damage like burnt traces, loose connectors etc.
Got it. Ok will do shortly. Could that motherboard be bad and still have power to reeks, lights and BV?
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Also called a Backplane board.
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Yes.
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Yes.
Ok swapped it out with a known working board and still nothing. It has a couple more plugs in the machine I pulled it out of so now I’m wondering if those are hooked up correctly. Can anyone verify?
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Also, this time I decided to close everything up and powered it on with the cord. The front display lights up quickly for a split second but still nothing. I never tried this with the other board, so no idea if that’s a change but at least it shows the display works. I couldn’t post the video, but I did catch this picture of it lighting up on the display for a split second before the fluorescent lights and bill validator fire up. But still no boot.
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What happens if you open and close the door ? any reel spins.
Does the white button do anything different.
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What happens if you open and close the door ? any reel spins.
Does the white button do anything different.
All the same symptoms. No spin test button does nothing. Reels still stiff.
So I have no idea where to go now. I hate to trash the whole cabinet but I’m totally lost now.
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Does the white molex plug just supply various power to board or what else? I know the reels being stiff is a good sign but what else is it for? Could one pin be bad where the reels are stiff but wont boot?
Just grasping as straws now.
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I've had them that look fine, but don't make good contact. You could test with a digital multimeter, a wire may be broken, but not visible.
without reading all the posts, I assume you checked for bent pins on the mpu.
W
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Anyone direct me to the diagram both in and out for the white molex plug on the motherboard?
My plug is not burnt but want to know what it powers besides the reels which are stiff already. If it powers the MPU eventually maybe there is something there for me to look at further.
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Since you swapped motherboards….
What is left is your harnesses.
Use a multimeter at each end.
A burnt connector means that it’s arcing and creating a sparc.
Just because it’s not burnt doesn’t mean it’s a good connection.
No connection=no sparc or anything else.
Remember the wires are only crimped into the molex.
So is possible there simply is not a connection at one end or the other.
The only way power gets to the MPU is through the motherboard.
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check your email shortly.
W
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Since you swapped motherboards….
What is left is your harnesses.
Use a multimeter at each end.
A burnt connector means that it’s arcing and creating a sparc.
Just because it’s not burnt doesn’t mean it’s a good connection.
No connection=no sparc or anything else.
Remember the wires are only crimped into the molex.
So is possible there simply is not a connection at one end or the other.
The only way power gets to the MPU is through the motherboard.
yeah looks fine with meter.. I am really pulling my hair out on this one.
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So i pulled the motherboard and harness again. I connected the harness to the MB. I ran a meter on one end of harness to the board pins under the connector (back side of board). Connection is fine.
YET! Still no change when reinstalled and powered....WTF!!!!!! UGGGGGGGG
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Can someone confirm this looks like their connected correctly?
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Confirmed.
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I was kind of hoping it wasn’t so least I might have a solution to this long lasting thing. I’m still stuck in no man’s land on this project. Turning more into a boat anchor than an actual machine. Any ideas appreciated.
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Do some searching for a somewhat recent S+ post/thread that someone else had a few months ago.
I'm serious.....it has a LOT to do with your problem that you're having....this is why...>>>
That "zero" lit up on the left-most side of the "Credits Paid" on the reel glass display...that should NOT be there.
I just saw it in Repy #32.
ONE of those smaller black Molex connectors that plugs into the motherboard can mistakenly go into TWO headers - because both motherboard headers and that plug are the same size.
I forget which one but if it's plugged into the wrong one, I think that's what causes the display to be screwed up and make it display a zero in that spot on the display.
See the harness that has mostly brown wires that plug into the motherboard on the floor?
Those wires are only for the mechanical meters...you don't need it to be plugged in for the machine to work or boot-up.
The clicking of the meters can be a nuisance....also the meters are very old and get stuck too.
When that happens, they draw more amperage from the PS.
I would disconnect that harness from the motherboard.
You never answered about if you have any smoke-clogged stuck topbox fans.
Check that too and disconnect if bad.
Also, disconnect all the fluorescent ballasts from the power supply.
They would be the small white Molex connector plugs on top of the very back of the power supply box.
There should be two of the 3-pin connectors that you can unplug.
One goes to the door's lights while the other one runs to the topbox light.
Just leave the 4-pin connector in for the power switch.
PLEASE only disconnect and reconnect these ones with the machine's plug removed from the wall socket or PS box.
We don't want you to get shocked! :Tongue_Out:
Want to see if removing the 115vac output demand from the power supply helps pinpoint anything.
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Do some searching for a somewhat recent S+ post/thread that someone else had a few months ago.
I'm serious.....it has a LOT to do with your problem that you're having....this is why...>>>
That "zero" lit up on the left-most side of the "Credits Paid" on the reel glass display...that should NOT be there.
I just saw it in Repy #32.
ONE of those smaller black Molex connectors that plugs into the motherboard can mistakenly go into TWO headers - because both motherboard headers and that plug are the same size.
I forget which one but if it's plugged into the wrong one, I think that's what causes the display to be screwed up and make it display a zero in that spot on the display.
See the harness that has mostly brown wires that plug into the motherboard on the floor?
Those wires are only for the mechanical meters...you don't need it to be plugged in for the machine to work or boot-up.
The clicking of the meters can be a nuisance....also the meters are very old and get stuck too.
When that happens, they draw more amperage from the PS.
I would disconnect that harness from the motherboard.
You never answered about if you have any smoke-clogged stuck topbox fans.
Check that too and disconnect if bad.
Also, disconnect all the fluorescent ballasts from the power supply.
They would be the small white Molex connector plugs on top of the very back of the power supply box.
There should be two of the 3-pin connectors that you can unplug.
One goes to the door's lights while the other one runs to the topbox light.
Just leave the 4-pin connector in for the power switch.
PLEASE only disconnect and reconnect these ones with the machine's plug removed from the wall socket or PS box.
We don't want you to get shocked! :Tongue_Out:
Want to see if removing the 115vac output demand from the power supply helps pinpoint anything.
Thanks i will try what you said shortly. I did post a picture of the motherboard connections to confirm they were connected correctly and someone confirmed so i am a bit confused now. I did think that maybe that could have been a cause though.
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Do some searching for a somewhat recent S+ post/thread that someone else had a few months ago.
I'm serious.....it has a LOT to do with your problem that you're having....this is why...>>>
That "zero" lit up on the left-most side of the "Credits Paid" on the reel glass display...that should NOT be there.
this?
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=37235.0
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:yes:
I'm afraid every looks alright in your photo though?
Tilt confirmed everything's plugged in correct.
The only thing I can think of is for you to ship me the machine and forget about it....
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:yes:
well looking at the MB and connections again, i dont see how they are messed up or crossed. There really is only one way to connect them as what looks like the original zip ties prevent it from going to the others they can fit.
Looking at that other thread and it appears mine are accurate.
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The only thing I can think of is for you to ship me the machine and forget about it....
Yeah funny not funny....Its just baffling. I am really bummed about it actually and hate to lose money.
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I'm just kidding...we'll get it going...if you thought it was going to be a free ride owning a slot machine, you thought wrong....lol
Wait till you get another one! :Crazy:
Have you tried swapping any other parts from the slant into this problem cabinet?
The door optics?
I sent you a PM message.
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I'm just kidding...we'll get it going...if you thought it was going to be a free ride owning a slot machine, you thought wrong....lol
Wait till you get another one! :Crazy:
Have you tried swapping any other parts from the slant into this problem cabinet?
The door optics?
Ok i think i just had a breakthrough....now for a solution...I grabbed a different meter and checked the power coming out of the plug (power supply area) that the white molex harness connects to. I will post the graph i used to ensure its correct by someone. I can get the 7 and 8 volts but the 24 volt circuit only reads about 14-15 volts. So is it safe to assume that would cause the board from firing up? I dont know which curcuit fires which pieces. What does the 24v go to?
So does that mean a new power supply or is there something else that causes it?
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Are you testing it connected ? Or just the molex by itself ?
Mark (stayoutofthebunker) suggested removing a number of things to ensure there is not something adversely drawing a load.
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Are you testing it connected ? Or just the molex by itself ?
Mark (stayoutofthebunker) suggested removing a number of things to ensure there is not something adversely drawing a load.
Right out of the power supply area where the other end of the while molex plug connects. The molex plug harness is removed so power checked before going out. Basically right from the outlet socket.
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If you've gotten those readings without the motherboard power plugged in, then the power isn't "under load".
Get new readings from left to right directly from on top of Molex that's connected to the motherboard header on the floor.
Touch the black probe of your multi-meter onto metal of the floor in the cabinet and the red probe on each pin one at a time.
Start with the left-most orange wires and work your way to the right of the motherboard Molex.
I know, I know...Pin 1 on the mtherboard Molex is the right-most wire...do it from the right to the left if you want...haha
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If you've gotten those readings without the motherboard power plugged in, then the power isn't "under load".
Get new readings from left to right directly from on top of Molex that's connected to the motherboard header on the floor.
Touch the black probe of your multi-meter onto metal of the floor in the cabinet and the red probe on each pin one at a time.
Start with the left-most orange wires and work your way to the right of the motherboard Molex.
I know, I know...Pin 1 on the mtherboard Molex is the right-most wire...do it from the right to the left if you want...haha
L to R
13.3
13.3
8.8
7.5
0
0
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Your power supply is good.
The first two orange wires make up the 24vac.
The last two green wires are basically just ground wires.
However, even though you've got readings from the top of the motherboard Molex housing, it doesn't mean that there's power going down into the motherboard....those top pins in the housing are female pins...and they are the cheap ones IGT put in there...the good ones are after-market "Trifurcon" female pins which contact 3 sides of the male motherboard pins.
Anyways, with the power switch [ON], you can very carefully wiggle that Molex plug slightly upwards by grabbing one wire from the top with your right hand.
With your left hand, lightly touch the paper strips with your fingertips and feel it go "stiff" with power off or go "soft" when the power Molex is pulled off.
If you wiggle the housing too high off of the male pins, the reels will go "soft" or dead and freely turn without any resistance whatsoever....which of course means, you've lost power.
Wiggling the motherboard power Molex housing back and forth up and down is one way I check periodically to see if it's burning out on a machine.
The old female pins inside the housing are trying hard to stay attached to the male pins but they are many over 25 years old!
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Your power supply is good.
The first two orange wires make up the 24vac.
The last two green wires are basically just ground wires.
Well good, but back to ground zero....
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So basically, from power all the way through a tested working molex, motherboard, and CPU board is good. So now what? Just a random small cut wire somewhere? Or?
I mean...seriously, cant the slot machine gods throw me a bone....This has gone on for way too long....
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What he was saying is what was mentioned before. Its possible that the connector is not making good connection with the mother board.
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What he was saying is what was mentioned before. Its possible that the connector is not making good connection with the mother board.
I tested continuity across that molex connection by using the back side of the motherboard where the pins are soldered. I am fairly confident that connection is good.
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Are you able to swap harness....?
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Are you able to swap harness....?
You mean cabinet harnesses? No, my two Splus uprights have different configurations for some reason. God i hope thats not the only way to figure this out. The strange part, well actually so many, is that brief flash of the zero on the left when starting up. It shouldnt be there.
I also just ensured the motherboard was good by putting it into a working machine. Worked just fine. So its doubly confirmed that both boards are working.
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What other options would keep working powered boards from booting with no wheel spin, no display and test button non functional?
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since both boards are good, power is good, do you get around 10 vdc measured across the large cap right near the connector on the display board. also does the denomination lamp com on? did you swap display boards?
Jim
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since both boards are good, power is good, do you get around 10 vdc measured across the large cap right near the connector on the display board. also does the denomination lamp com on? did you swap display boards?
Jim
Yes denomination lamp does come on. A brief flash of a zero on the very left of the display board.
I dont know what "Large Cap" near the connector is? Can you show a picture?
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Now would be a good time for you Jon, to send me that cell phone video of the machine trying to start up from the time you turn [ON] the power switch.
We need to see the reel glass display and the reels at the same time.
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did you swap display boards?
Jim
i dont have a spare display board
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See the harness that has mostly brown wires that plug into the motherboard on the floor?
Those wires are only for the mechanical meters...you don't need it to be plugged in for the machine to work or boot-up.
The clicking of the meters can be a nuisance....also the meters are very old and get stuck too.
When that happens, they draw more amperage from the PS.
I would disconnect that harness from the motherboard.
You never answered about if you have any smoke-clogged stuck topbox fans.
Check that too and disconnect if bad.
Disconnected meters no change. N
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See the harness that has mostly brown wires that plug into the motherboard on the floor?
Those wires are only for the mechanical meters...you don't need it to be plugged in for the machine to work or boot-up.
The clicking of the meters can be a nuisance....also the meters are very old and get stuck too.
When that happens, they draw more amperage from the PS.
I would disconnect that harness from the motherboard.
You never answered about if you have any smoke-clogged stuck topbox fans.
Check that too and disconnect if bad.
Disconnected meters, no change. No fans to disconnect.
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Still virtually dead, no boot....
I just put in a new molex with Trifurcon pins-No change. Same symtoms. I had a slight hope this would do it as its obviously a common issue but through my previous testing it appeared to be delivering power to the MB.
So....Now what?
Power Supply is ok-Tested
Fuses are ok-Tested
Molex plug/harness is ok-New
Mother Board is good-Placed into other machine and worked fine
CPU Board is good-Placed into other machine and worked fine
(Other good boards put into this machine and no better)
What does...
Lights power up
Bill Validator powers up
Reels are stiff
Nothing on display at all. In previous attempts there was a faint 21 once but has never returned and a zero a few times as of late that showed for a millisecond that has not returned.
No reel spin.
So where do i go from here? It would seem to me that perhaps everything is booting up or could but maybe signal is not leaving board? I am totally lost and frustrated.
Thanks in advance to anyone's help and to all who have previously helped me.
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you don't need a spare display board, both types of displays used in splus machines can be put in any machine for test purpose.
what that means, if you have a small display mounted to the left of the reels, it only uses a 5 pin connector.
the large display that goes along the bottom of the reel glass uses the same 5 pin connector, so you can just plug in either display, you don't have to have it in the machine, you can test with the door open, this will eliminate one more thing.
the other connector on the long display controls the denom lamp, insert coin lamp, coin accepted lamp.
have you also tested the SS aqnd SP chips from the bad machine in a good machine?
Jim
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have you also tested the SS aqnd SP chips from the bad machine in a good machine?
Jim
I completely move both boards separately and together into a working machine and they worked. Obviously the game was wrong but it’s fine the wheels booted up and work perfectly.
Will a bad display keep the machine from booting?
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How do you know its not booting? you can't see any codes or numbers. Just saying,
Jim
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It probably has a 61 error from all the board swapping around, but if the display is bad you won't see it. Is the candle blinking? If it is the MPU is booting.
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How do you know its not booting? you can't see any codes or numbers. Just saying,
Jim
Thanks. Maybe I assumed incorrectly but I thought booting was occurring when reels spin up.
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It probably has a 61 error from all the board swapping around, but if the display is bad you won't see it. Is the candle blinking? If it is the MPU is booting.
Good point. Well that’s just it too. To have sourced a candle as the one on it is broken. One of those things I was going to buy once I knew it would boot up but you bring up a good argument for me to splurge on it to help with diagnosis. I made that decision before I knew the boards are good. So now I guess I should buy a candle and display and bite the bullet.
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Yeah, those are pretty cheap items compared to MPUs and motherboards too.
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before you purchase anything, use the display from the slant top and plug it in to the upright, doesn't have to be installed, just unplug the 5 pin connector from the upright machine and plug it into the display from the slant top, holding the display in your hand, turn on the machine and see what you see on the display!
should take all of 10 minutes to do this.
Jim
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before you purchase anything, use the display from the slant top and plug it in to the upright, doesn't have to be installed, just unplug the 5 pin connector from the upright machine and plug it into the display from the slant top, holding the display in your hand, turn on the machine and see what you see on the display!
should take all of 10 minutes to do this.
Jim
Thanks Jim I appreciate the continued help. I just went out and try that but nothing changed. It did briefly flash a digit, but was weird as I powered it up a few times. It did not do the same thing. I’ll try to post pictures in just a second.
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before you purchase anything, use the display from the slant top and plug it in to the upright, doesn't have to be installed, just unplug the 5 pin connector from the upright machine and plug it into the display from the slant top, holding the display in your hand, turn on the machine and see what you see on the display!
should take all of 10 minutes to do this.
Jim
OK, so these are screenshots of a video I took. I powered it on and off about three times and each time it gave a different result. These are only millisecond flashes nothing sustained. This thing is crazy! Every time I try something new, I feel more and more lost and disappointed. I really want this to join my other ones in working.
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Can any issue with the arm lever prevent the board from booting up without an error first? I’m really running out of things to look at here to figure this out.
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can you take a close up picture of the plugs on top of the cpu housing. should be four of them.
Jim
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can you take a close up picture of the plugs on top of the cpu housing. should be four of them.
Jim
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Any other ideas anyone? Thanks in advance.
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Any other ideas anyone? Thanks in advance.
Okay so this is my thought. Check all the display circuits from end to end for continuity and for being shorted to one another and carefully inspect the connections for the display on each end. If nothing is found. I would disconnect everything from the MPU and mother board that is not needed to make the board power up and make the display come on. So basically just power to the mother board, the MPU plugged in to it and just the needed wiring for the display itself connecting to the MPU & Board. Nothing else connected. No reels, buttons, BV, lights or anything. And I would disconnect closest to the MPU and mother board. To help eliminate wiring shorts as being the issue. And just focus on getting the display to come up and give codes which obviously its gonna have codes with everything disconnected. Then slowly start reconnecting everything until the display stops working. Just and idea.
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I went through just about the same thing so this is going to sound to easy to be true. Mine was the molex connections for the door optics. I had stuck my probe for MM in the female end and it spread them out so I took a pick and bent them back tight. They felt tight but wasn’t making connection. I know it sounds silly but it worked an ever since. Try it.
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Any other ideas anyone? Thanks in advance.
Okay so this is my thought. Check all the display circuits from end to end for continuity and for being shorted to one another and carefully inspect the connections for the display on each end. If nothing is found. I would disconnect everything from the MPU and mother board that is not needed to make the board power up and make the display come on. So basically just power to the mother board, the MPU plugged in to it and just the needed wiring for the display itself connecting to the MPU & Board. Nothing else connected. No reels, buttons, BV, lights or anything. And I would disconnect closest to the MPU and mother board. To help eliminate wiring shorts as being the issue. And just focus on getting the display to come up and give codes which obviously its gonna have codes with everything disconnected. Then slowly start reconnecting everything until the display stops working. Just and idea.
thank you. I’ll check that out.
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I went through just about the same thing so this is going to sound to easy to be true. Mine was the molex connections for the door optics. I had stuck my probe for MM in the female end and it spread them out so I took a pick and bent them back tight. They felt tight but wasn’t making connection. I know it sounds silly but it worked an ever since. Try it.
Interesting. So I was under the impression that it would still boot up, spin etc but just not play with optic issues. Sounds like you’re saying that it won’t?
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No it will not.
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No it will not.
Interesting. My other machine will spin and show on display with door open.
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I went through just about the same thing so this is going to sound to easy to be true. Mine was the molex connections for the door optics. I had stuck my probe for MM in the female end and it spread them out so I took a pick and bent them back tight. They felt tight but wasn’t making connection. I know it sounds silly but it worked an ever since. Try it.
I had a machine with same issue. It would randomly have door open issues. Like very random. It go for days or even weeks and would glitch once. Go for another week or more. Sometimes it would act up for 10 mins and then go away. It would do it just long enough for me to dive into it and then it would stop. Oh man it drive me nuts. Was hard to nail down for sure. Was exact same issue, spread optic terminals.
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I am no expert on S Plus machines. I would have to think your other machine has some sort of by pass on the door optics. Everyone I talked with on my issue said your door have to work before everything else will work. When I finally figured it out the machine runs perfect. Good luck.
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I went through just about the same thing so this is going to sound to easy to be true. Mine was the molex connections for the door optics. I had stuck my probe for MM in the female end and it spread them out so I took a pick and bent them back tight. They felt tight but wasn’t making connection. I know it sounds silly but it worked an ever since. Try it.
Are you talking about the connector where the door optics connect like when you need to replace the optics or somewhere else? Picture?
I will go try this, but like with other recent suggestions i am reluctantly optimistic. A lot of folks who have been helping me say the door is not the issue as i am not getting any bootup processes.
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can you take a close up picture of the plugs on top of the cpu housing. should be four of them.
Jim
Did the picture give you any ideas?
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SUCCESS!!!!!
Whew! :dancing_2: This crazy journey is now coming to a close....While on vacation i just picked up another Splus that is clean and working, except for the handle...later project. The only thing left besides the wiring harnesses themselves was the power supply. As you can see in previous posts i did get help about how to meter the supply and it appeared it was working fine so i moved on.
The boards were fine and checked in other machines
Wrong chips were replaced
The molex plug was replaced
The display was replaced
Candle added to help with diagnostics
But low and behold, using the power supply from the newly acquired machine and it boots right up....I am still puzzled how it metered ok but was the issue. I am going to put the "bad" power supply in my new machine to confirm that it is bad and not just a connection issue somewhere when messing with it.
Thanks again all that assisted. I learned a ton from this process thanks to you along with losing some hair and gaining a few ulcers....hehehe...
Now in search for a power supply.....
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Hard to believe that the power supply is bad!, you measured the correct voltages, 24 vac, 8 vac, and 7vac. the only problem I have ever seen with the power supply was the fuse caps, the spring or lack of a spring would cause intermittent problems.
Glad you are close.
I have power supplies if you need one.
Jim
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:I_agree_1: About 40 Replys ago, I said the power supply was good.
His readings all checked out good. :Scratch-Head:
Something we don't know about happened between then and now.
Anyways, glad it's working now.
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Yay!
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:I_agree_1: About 40 Replys ago, I said the power supply was good.
His readings all checked out good. :Scratch-Head:
Something we don't know about happened between then and now.
Anyways, glad it's working now.
Well it gets even more crazier...In putting the "bad" power supply in a good machine...guess what? IT FRIGGIN' WORKS!!! WTH!!! Then...I put it back into the troubled machine and guess what?....IT WORKS IN THERE NOW TOO!!!! This thing is haunted!
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Probably the connectors on the power supply.
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Well, just wanna finalize all of this and say it’s all up and running. Finally got all the rest of the little things done and the new glass. I have an LED button set. I’m gonna try that’s being shipped since one of the buttons is broken. Maybe I’ll do this to the rest of them, but as of now, the three amigos look great! I have some others that aren’t in the picture, but these are the latest ones funny how the collection just keeps on growing like having babies.