New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: TheDeadman on January 21, 2023, 02:40:04 PM
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Hi all,
I recently purchased an IGT S2000 Tabasco Machine. The machine did not come with clear or key chips so I haven't tried those yet, but I figured that the error is significant enough that those chips wouldn't save me. When I boot, all LEDs turn on except for the red, then after a moment, the red turns on. There is no reel spins and the VFD is completely off. Also the ticket printer and bill validator seem to be off, however, the ticket printer's LEDs on the side are all on. I have checked the coin cell battery and it is at 3.0v and there is no green battery and no signs of corrosion damage (See pictures attached). Any ideas what to try?
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Do you have another power supply to try? The one behind the reels. Make sure it is tight as well.
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Look closely at how your base chip is installed. The notch at the end needs to face the other way.
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AZ and I posted at the same...lol
The SB chip is backwards!
Did you buy it like that?
Anyways, the notch on top of the chip should be pointing towards the left in your picture.
I circled it in green for you.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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AZ and I posted at the same...lol
The SB chip is backwards!
Did you buuy it like that?
Anyways, the notch on top of the chip should be pointing towards the left in your picture.
I circled it in green for you.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
I reversed the game chip, still same results. Only difference that I don't think was there before is the bottom light on the door seems to switch between bright and dim. All LEDs are still lit.
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Do you have another power supply to try? The one behind the reels. Make sure it is tight as well.
Unfortunately, I don't have a second power supply, only a second game board.
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How did the SB chip get installed in that direction?
It's quite possible that it's now fried.
Contact member RB for a new Tabasco SB100026 3R1L2C chip.
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Does the second "game board" have a base chip installed? If so, swap it out with the one that was in backwards (even if it isn't the number) and see if the game boots up. If so, then your Tabasco base chip probably was destroyed by being installed backwards. Usually, but not always installing it backwards doesn't hurt it.
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How did the SB chip get installed in that direction?
It's quite possible that it's now fried.
Contact member RB for a new Tabasco SB100026 3R1L2C chip.
Was sold to me that way unfortunately. Ill try the other chip and report back
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Does the second "game board" have a base chip installed? If so, swap it out with the one that was in backwards (even if it isn't the number) and see if the game boots up. If so, then your Tabasco base chip probably was destroyed by being installed backwards. Usually, but not always installing it backwards doesn't hurt it.
Tried the other game chip. The Red LED is flashing every ~20 seconds now and no door light issues. Still no VFD
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The person that put the chip backwards may of well bent a pin on the bottom of the MPU board?
Take a look under there.
May need a small pair of tweezers to straighten.
I circled in green where you need to check the pins....there's a lot of 'em.
Note: Make sure you turn OFF the power switch whenever swapping parts, installing or removing boards.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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The person that put the chip backwards may of well bent a pin on the bottom of the MPU board?
Take a look under there.
May need a small pair of tweezers to straighten.
I circled in green where you need to check the pins....there's a lot of 'em.
Note: Make sure you turn OFF the power switch whenever swapping parts, installing or removing boards.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
Read about changing parts on here before I bought it, always followed proper safety :yes: I've checked the pins that connect to the motherboard, 0 bent pins.
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okay good job.
I don't like that you're not getting anything on the blue VFD display.
Does any messages come up on the blue VFD display when you turn on the machine with NO MPU installed?
What chips do you have on the other MPU?
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Does any messages come up on the blue VFD display when you turn on the machine with NO MPU installed?
What chips do you have on the other MPU?
Ill take pictures of both MPUs, but I just tried the second one with the tabasco game chip and it blinks all on -> x-xxx- (x: on, -: off)
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Get a key and clear chip. Start from scratch after verifying all chips look good and are installed properly.
Jason
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Does any messages come up on the blue VFD display when you turn on the machine with NO MPU installed?
What chips do you have on the other MPU?
You made my heart race sir, no board makes the VFD print "Display's NETPLEX is down." and the bill acceptor cycle. I attached photos of the front with no MPU (VFD cut off cause of shutter speed) and the flashing that happens when I use my second MPU
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Get a key and clear chip. Start from scratch after verifying all chips look good and are installed properly.
Jason
If it was a EEPROM seating issue and I reseat them without using any clear and key chips, will I get a different error on the VFD? I'm in Canada so it takes a while to buy the chips as most people are US sellers.
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We have members in Canada...I'm near Montreal 4 days a week eh? :rotfl:
Where you at?lol
I can make you a new working SB chip and mail it from quebec no problem...but I want you to try the other chips first...I need to see if they're compatiable with each other once I see what you have.
Earlier you said you checked your battery....how did you check the voltage without removing it from the board?
You cannot get an accurate reading if it's still in the holder.
If you removed the battery for a prolonged amount of time, you may have lost/cleared the settings anyways...you WILL need a Keychip at some point in this hobby.
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We have members in Canada...I'm near Montreal 4 days a week :rotfl:
Where you at?
I'm about an hour outside of Toronto.
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We have members in Canada...I'm near Montreal 4 days a week eh? :rotfl:
Where you at?lol
I can make you a new working SB chip....but I want you to try the other chips...I need to see if they're compatiable with each other once I see what you have.
Board 1 is the one with the Sketchy looking chip, Its apparently from a Double Diamond Deluxe that the seller used for parts.
Board 2 is the Double Diamond's board, but with the Tabasco chip. (this is the one that flashes the LEDs)
Also I've swapped the SB chips and tried each on both boards and the SB chips dont influence the behavior, leading me to believe its the board itself or other chips that are causing the problem.
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Ah crap. I didn't figure the 2nd board would have a SB001000 Base Chip. That one allows it to use S+ Reel (SS Chips). So to use that you also have to move the SS chip (note how it is installed), but I think even with the SB001000 chip without the SS chip installed it should have booted but told you there's a problem with the SS chip. Give it a try though, nothing to lose but a couple minutes of time.
Also if you have a DMM check the power supply voltages. Attached is a picture of where you can easily check them and the voltage you should see.
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Ah crap. I didn't figure the 2nd board would have a SB001000 Base Chip. That one allows it to use S+ Reel (SS Chips). So to use that you also have to move the SS chip (note how it is installed), but I think even with the SB001000 chip without the SS chip installed it should have booted but told you there's a problem with the SS chip. Give it a try though, nothing to lose but a couple minutes of time.
Also if you have a DMM check the power supply voltages. Attached is a picture of where you can easily check them and the voltage you should see.
Tested with the SS chip and no luck. Which line would be ground?
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OK.
You can use put the negative lead on the metal lining the interior of the cabinet.
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OK.
You can use put the negative lead on the metal lining the interior of the cabinet.
13.33 - RED
24.14 - ORANGE
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oh I'm late...I guess you already tried the SS PROM in the S2000 MPU.
Insert this chip with the un-notched end closest to the unmarked end of socket U17.
This chip has 28 pins but the socket has 32.
See Figure 4-3 for details.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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oh I'm late...I guess you already tried the SS PROM in the S2000 MPU.
Insert this chip with the un-notched end closest to the unmarked end of socket U17.
This chip has 28 pins but the socket has 32.
See Figure 4-3 for details.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
I tried that in board 1 and it didn't change its behavior.
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Without another cabinet, all you can do is try MPU #2 with the SS and SB001000 chips in this machine.
Once you have the MPU in, and only then powered up, close the door and watch the VFD display closely for messages.
Do you have a Jackpot reset key?
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Without another cabinet, all you can do is try MPU #2 with the SS and SB001000 chips in this machine.
Once you have the MPU in, and only then powered up, close the door and watch the VFD display closely for messages.
Tried that and got nothing. But will try again
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Without another cabinet, all you can do is try MPU #2 with the SS and SB001000 chips in this machine.
Once you have the MPU in, and only then powered up, close the door and watch the VFD display closely for messages.
Do you have a Jackpot reset key?
just retried, no VFD messages. Just flashing leds on the board and flashing ticket printer
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OK.
You can use put the negative lead on the metal lining the interior of the cabinet.
13.33 - RED
24.14 - ORANGE
Those are good.
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I'm all outta ideas until you get a working SB chip, Clear chip, and a Keychip.
You know...GTA slots is located in Ontario...he may have software to get you up and running.
Get a hold of member a69mopar ...>>>
Brampton, Ontario, Canada
Phone: 647-402-1977
Wayne@GTASLOTS.com
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I'm all outta ideas until you get a working SB chip, Clear chip, and a Keychip.
You know...GTA slots is located in Ontario...he may have software to get you up and running.
Get a hold of member a69mopar ...>>>
Brampton, Ontario, Canada
Phone: 647-402-1977
Wayne@GTASLOTS.com
Fired off an email, we will see what he says tomorrow. As soon as I get the chips I will update you.
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I don't normally sell chips, but started looking for this one. Since the move things are hard to find, I am happy that I found a couple boxes of Alpha game cards. Hopefully I find the missing Fortune 8 card also. The search continues...
Thanks,
Wayne
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Also just to confirm, The IGT S2000 uses IVC224 (Clear Chip) & KEY0045, right?
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Yes, that's correct.
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Was about to make dinner today when I looked at the second MPU and notice a chip seemed to be slanted. I reseated the 2 chips and now I am getting "GAME EPROM CRC MISMATCH -0xB000001". One step closer. Should I swap the SB chips and see what happens? (it has the Double Diamond SB chip right now)
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Just turn the j/p key until it says to push test button for 3 seconds then close the door.
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Just turn the j/p key until it says to push test button for 3 seconds then close the door.
Just continues to say Please close main door (which is definitely closed)
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That one was the SB001000 so you also have to install the SS chip on that board too.
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That one was the SB001000 so you also have to install the SS chip on that board too.
The SS chip is in, but I can't seem to get the door to fully close. the latch on the side appears to be half way down and if I pull the door, even while it should be locked, it opens.
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Take out the bill validator and see if it closes. Sometimes the beak isn't aligned well. Or check alignment when closing slowly. If you put a small piece of masking tape on the door, and another on the cabinet near the optics, then, with the door open, mark where the optic is. For the door, the latch needs to be down, then mark. Once you close the door you can see if it aligns..
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If it has a coin tray make sure it is in correctly or the door can't close all the way.
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Take out the bill validator and see if it closes. Sometimes the beak isn't aligned well. Or check alignment when closing slowly. If you put a small piece of masking tape on the door, and another on the cabinet near the optics, then, with the door open, mark where the optic is. For the door, the latch needs to be down, then mark. Once you close the door you can see if it aligns..
Tried removing the bill validator with no success. Gonna try the tape next
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Take out the bill validator and see if it closes. Sometimes the beak isn't aligned well. Or check alignment when closing slowly. If you put a small piece of masking tape on the door, and another on the cabinet near the optics, then, with the door open, mark where the optic is. For the door, the latch needs to be down, then mark. Once you close the door you can see if it aligns..
Tried with the tape and the optics line up. It feels like the door is fully closing, but I can still open it without touching the lever and the message is still there.
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The lever has to slide all the way down.
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Are these what the optical sensors are supposed to look like? Picture number 2 seems wrong to me but I cant explain why.
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The lever has to slide all the way down.
No matter how I close the machine, the lever doesn't go all the way down. The bracket seems kind of loose, should I try to tighten it? I also removed the coin tray with no luck.
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I managed to get the door closed (there was a gap at the top of the door that the door wasnt getting over), But I still have the error message which makes me think its the optics. Any ideas?
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What happens a lot is these IGT S2000 door hinges are weakened over time and the door sags.
Pushing upwards on the frame under the top right hand corner of the reel glass on the door usually gets them fully closed.
As you move the door latch to the closed position, keep an eye on the [Coins Played] window on the display, whatever number is in there should momentarily go out as the door optics are aligned....after about 1-3 seconds, some number will come back on.
If this behavior is present, your door optics are operational.
Whatever number that came back on, must stay on when the latch is closed....that means the optics are aligned and "see" each other.
On the door is an emitter optic.....it shoots out an infared light to the cabinet receiver optic.
If the emitter is good, you can see a blue light coming out of that door mounted optic with a digital camera.
You cannot see any light on the cabinet mounted receiver optic tho.
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What happens a lot is these IGT S2000 door hinges are weakened over time and the door sags.
Pushing upwards on the frame under the top right hand corner of the reel glass on the door usually gets them fully closed.
As you move the door latch to the closed position, keep an eye on the [Coins Played] window on the display, whatever number is in there should momentarily go out as the door optics are aligned....after about 1-3 seconds, some number will come back on.
If this behavior is present, your door optics are operational.
Whatever number that came back on, must stay on when the latch is closed....that means the optics are aligned and "see" each other.
On the door is an emitter optic.....it shoots out an infared light to the cabinet receiver optic.
If the emitter is good, you can see a blue light coming out of that door mounted optic with a digital camera.
You cannot see any light on the cabinet mounted receiver optic tho.
I didn't see any blue light from the optic and the coin cell battery on the MPU is dead. I'm gonna replace the battery later today, but the door is definitely closing now.
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You're not going to see anything come out of that emitter optic with a dead MPU battery.
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You're not going to see anything come out of that emitter optic with a dead MPU battery.
Replaced it and saw no improvement, but the replacement was a really quick hack job (they spot welded the old battery so I had to use jumpers). I want to try to fix the other board, as it has a proper battery holder and a fully charged battery but I can't do that for a few hours. Its risky to use the other board (I don't know 100% whats wrong with it, so it could fry my working chips) but I am still going to try.
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Put the SB100026 in the 1st MPU w/the good battery, along with the SG GME1 & GME2 pairs and a Version chip.
It should work...the problem might just only be that the SB was backwards and the chip that was "slanted", you re-installed correctly.
Which chip was "slanted"? The SG pairs?
Leave the SS prom and SB001000 chips out for now.
All your pictures earlier have the software mixed up and incompatiable which each other...
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Put the SB100026 in the 1st MPU w/the good battery, along with the SG GME1 & GME2 pairs and a Version chip.
It should work...the problem might just only be that the SB was backwards and the chip that was "slanted", you re-installed correctly.
Which chip was "slanted"? The SG pairs?
Leave the SS prom and SB001000 chips out for now.
All your pictures earlier have the software mixed up and incompatiable which each other...
The RAM chips were what was slanted. (See the green "ADVANCED" chips in the picture) should I move those to the other board as well? Fixing them were what fixed the secondary board so I'm wondering if they are whats breaking the first board as well.
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Put the SB100026 in the 1st MPU w/the good battery, along with the SG GME1 & GME2 pairs and a Version chip.
It should work...the problem might just only be that the SB was backwards and the chip that was "slanted", you re-installed correctly.
Which chip was "slanted"? The SG pairs?
Leave the SS prom and SB001000 chips out for now.
All your pictures earlier have the software mixed up and incompatiable which each other...
Just tried swapping all chips from semi-working board to non-working board. No results. Working board is now using Tabasco SB, Version and other chips. The only chips that are the same are the RAM chips because I know 100% that they work. Even will all the chip swaps, I am getting the same thing. Im pretty sure I have the coin cell battery connected but still not getting an IR light. I'm thinking about bypassing it cause im sure the door is closed, but wanted to know if there are any other things I should try first.
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okay...In your photo above, you need to take out the SS chip...it ONLY works with the SB001000 chip....not with the Tabasco SB chip.
Alternatively, you could take out the tabasco chip, and shove in the SB001000 with the SS chip.
Certain chips work with each other....others don't.
Look at it this way....the GME 1&2 chips are like Windows XP, Vista or Windows 8...those are the operating chips.
The SS and the SB chips are the reel chips...those hold the prize awards for the reel strips.
The Version chip is sort of like a juristictional chip that are region specific such as New Jersey, or Nevada, Mississippi, etc, etc.
Some jurisdictions don't allow one dollar bills to be accepted, have different RULES, or things like taxation on awards of $1,199.00 or higher where the machine must lock-up for an attendant hand-pay situation.
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okay...In your photo above, you need to take out the SS chip...it ONLY works with the SB001000 chip....not with the Tabasco SB chip.
I had tried that in the working board, removed the SS and SB chip and put in the "backwards" Tabasco chip. The board still works fine but no optics.
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So if I am doing my research (and electronics) correctly, My internal door optic that should be emitting an IR signal isn't transmitting anything, Meaning I need a new door led. Does anybody know what the LED specs would be? (the voltage seems to pulse ~9v to 0v which is way higher then the LEDs I work with can handle). If not I can just buy a new door optic set, but I'd like to fix this on the component level if possible.
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"pulse ~9v to 0v " meaning vdc or vac? :scratch-head_3:
I would look at the schematics in the NLG File System for your machine. :yes:
I think you have to be a Contributing Member to look at the documentation in there. :cool_thumb_up:
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The signal to the emitter is complex digital pulses. If it's really hitting 9V then either the diode is open, or you have a problem on the MPU board.
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Just checked again and I think I had the meter on DC which gave me the wrong readings. The AC setting says its around 1.x V and if I test with a visible LED, I can see that it works and just pulses a bit every few seconds. I suppose I just need an IR LED that I can rewire to the hookup and Ill have working optics.
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The emitter optic from an old TV remote control will work. :cool_thumb_up:
Not all cameras are the same...Test your digital camera.
Look at your TV remote with the camera and see if any light is coming out of it.
If you see anything, now you know THAT camera is good enough to see if your door emitter optic is okay.
A very long time, I made a bypass using some wire and a cherry switch.
That machine, to this day, still does NOT have any optics.
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The emitter optic from an old TV remote control will work. :cool_thumb_up:
Not all cameras are the same...Test your digital camera.
Look at your TV remote with the camera and see if any light is coming out of it.
If you see anything, now you know THAT camera is good enough to see if your door emitter optic is okay.
A very long time, I made a bypass using some wire and a cherry switch.
That machine, to this day, still does NOT have any optics.
Just checked my camera. Can definitely see the signals coming from the remote and definitely CAN'T see the signals from the led. Guess I'll have to find an old TV remote and rip out the LED (or buy one from china)
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Read this...it' from 2010 :arrowthruhead:
It might help you until you get some optics...>>>
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0)
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A set of optics are still fairly cheap and available, just post a wtb in the classifieds.
They will be plug and play. You are really down to the component level already.
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Read this...it' from 2010 :arrowthruhead:
It might help you until you get some optics...>>>
[url]http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0[/url] ([url]http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0[/url])
Ill try that, but in the mean time, a regular LED wouldn't work, right? I have tons of LEDs laying around just no IR ones. Also is there a way to test the receiver if I use a TV remote to test the outputs?
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Read this...it' from 2010 :arrowthruhead:
It might help you until you get some optics...>>>
[url]http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0[/url] ([url]http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0[/url])
Tried the bypass and alternative LED (that wasn't IR, had a snowstorm today so couldn't go out) and still no luck. I want to make sure that the door is fully closed despite the LED/Receiver lining up and the door no longer being able to open without a key. Does the below image look like its fully latched? The key will lock it just fine, no coin tray in the way and the optics line up. I'm gonna look into getting another MPU incase the traces are damaged by the evil green battery, but right now the only test that remains is the IR LED test which has me worried.
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The handle is not down. It must go all the way to the bottom of the slot.
If you tried the bypass then as long as the white cherry switch is pushed in (or pulled all the way out) the game should sense the door is closed even if it is open.
Have you sent a picture of the mpu board where the varta used to be?
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The handle is not down. It must go all the way to the bottom of the slot.
If you tried the bypass then as long as the white cherry switch is pushed in (or pulled all the way out) the game should sense the door is closed even if it is open.
Have you sent a picture of the mpu board where the varta used to be?
Praying its not board traces. When I did the bypass, I held down the cherry switch and got no where. I might just need to buy another MPU :banghead:
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You just found your door open problem. Varta battery took out another one :banghead: :banghead:
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You just found your door open problem. Varta battery took out another one :banghead: :banghead:
Is there any possible way to recover the board? or am I 100% screwed?
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I think Retro Tech Repair works on them, maybe lookes too. Whether or not it can be repaired depends on how much damage has been done to it.
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I think Retro Tech Repair works on them, maybe lookes too. Whether or not it can be repaired depends on how much damage has been done to it.
damn, looks like I'm sending gtaslots another email. Thanks for your help
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I think Retro Tech Repair works on them, maybe lookes too. Whether or not it can be repaired depends on how much damage has been done to it.
Just took another look at the Dead board cause it has 0 traces of ever having the evil green battery, or any corrosion damage at all. The only differences I can see between the boards is a strange jumper from a diode to a trace on the board. Is it possible that the jumper will revive the board? Then I just have to reinstall the bypass and Ill have a working machine :) Below is the differences between the boards.
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Not likely. If you look at the part numbers of the board itself they probably have different part number's or rev numbers. Sometimes errors or improvements are made after the board has been produced so they run jumpers or add components to correct it, then the next revision they integrate those into the board and production incrementing the rev # or part #.
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Not likely. If you look at the part numbers of the board itself they probably have different part number's or rev numbers. Sometimes errors or improvements are made after the board has been produced so they run jumpers or add components to correct it, then the next revision they integrate those into the board and production incrementing the rev # or part #.
You're right, working board is a 75510501 and dead board is a 75510502. Are there any tests you can recommend I try on the 502 board to see why its dead? Its a perfectly clean board and the chips are not the problem (I moved all the working chips from the good board to the dead board to test). All the leds come on the front on boot.
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You could try swapping all the socketed components from the working (but acid damaged) board to the non-damaged board and see if you were lucky enough that one of them is bad. Be careful removing the PLCC chips from the sockets if you don't have the tool to do it so you don't bend pins.
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https://www.ebay.ca/itm/325513377385?hash=item4bca1bf669:g:qZoAAOSwMRRj004Y&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoEu6JxYzFv8tg8PtDly%2FoIRBmA5ecwfSa6x6s4qO%2B%2F%2FS5%2BFS0OBnb7105vwBXPxOp54Xabmliu7u3blMJ5sGRD53%2BFPJTnhVnajtXzwWK8eVK9q%2BZJk3qRN1fBwlYFVGPwgTnfO8mF7BgyJMIGaiZEFpcQ%2FdCarE8uMAP40RRVDF7ez23Kj6fFu6siIFs5fKJjP3UyXcEsQr5uWJImvEluY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6i3-Nm-YQ (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/325513377385?hash=item4bca1bf669:g:qZoAAOSwMRRj004Y&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoEu6JxYzFv8tg8PtDly%2FoIRBmA5ecwfSa6x6s4qO%2B%2F%2FS5%2BFS0OBnb7105vwBXPxOp54Xabmliu7u3blMJ5sGRD53%2BFPJTnhVnajtXzwWK8eVK9q%2BZJk3qRN1fBwlYFVGPwgTnfO8mF7BgyJMIGaiZEFpcQ%2FdCarE8uMAP40RRVDF7ez23Kj6fFu6siIFs5fKJjP3UyXcEsQr5uWJImvEluY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6i3-Nm-YQ)
take a look at the battery on this board listed on ebay. Not sure if the seller is on here, but the battery needs to go.
Thanks,
Wayne
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Check with Jim Midwest slots. He may have a board.
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Check with Lookes, he does good work, and should be able to repair your board
Good Luck
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I got a new board coming in the mail that arrives on Tuesday. I have reinstalled the original optics and found a way to ensure that the door latches all the way. As soon as I get the board, if the green battery is still there I will hack it off. Then its just a matter of swapping all the chips from the current board to the new board and I will be in business. I will update once I have the board.
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Great news! I installed my new MPU today and it fixed all previous issues. Door optics working, no open door issues, everything was fine. 2 spins later and I am getting a constant "General Reel Tilt" that wasnt fixed by reseating the MPU or reseating the reels. Any ideas?
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Open the main door, turn the jackpot reset key, then close the door. Hopefully it doesn't come back again.
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You may also have to adjust your door optics just a little, that is pretty common for that error.
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Open the main door, turn the jackpot reset key, then close the door. Hopefully it doesn't come back again.
Tried it, worked like a charm.
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Thanks everyone for your hard work on this. The machine is working now (using the SB0001000 chip, havent tested the Tabasco chip yet) so I am one happy guy. Thanks again everyone for your help :thank_you: