New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: Jimise on November 07, 2014, 07:07:03 PM
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Do the 044 boards need the green varta batteries to work?
I have one where the battery is starting to corrode, but the board still works.
Just curious if it is needed.
Thanks everyone!
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Not sure but it'S already corroded so pull it off and find out. You can't hurt anything and you need to remove it anyway to prevent damage to the board
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you only need it for international software. Works fine with us software.
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Sounds good! Thanks for the info.
At least now I know I don't have to replace it. :yes:
you only need it for international software. Works fine with us software.
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My 044 wont boot without that battery.The second amber LED from the left doesnt light,screen blank.
Running USA GK 5.0
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My bad, you have an international board. I had the same issue when the battery was bad. It needs the green battery. There are some domestic 044 boards that do not require the battery.
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Good question, and the answer I think depends on your board. I recently picked up a couple of boards off of ebay that had the dreaded varta tell tale batteries installed. I have two others that do not. Found out today that none of them are the same part number. I have the following:
75704401 Rev A - No Tell Tale Battery installed
75704402 Rev A - Has Tell Tale Battery installed
75704402W Rev B - Has Tell Tale Battery installed
75704403 Rev A - No Tell Tale Battery installed
The 4402 and 4402W are the two I got from ebay that have tell tale batteries. They had a privileged option keyswitch on the front, and the 4402W has a DB-9 connector on the front instead of a fiber optic interface.
I removed the battery from the 4402W board first, put it in the machine and it booted just fine. Powered cycled it a couple of times and it booted and played every time.
So I removed the battery from the 4402 board. Installed it, and it looked like it was booting OK, but when it got to where it Zero checks the flash the second Amber LED went out and it just locked up with the Starting Up please wait screen still being displayed, but the three periods"..." stopped incrementing. Similar to what coaster described, but my display wasn't blank. It may be because he's using a legacy adapter board and legacy software? I don't know. I power cycled it a couple more times and it hung up in that same spot every time.
In looking at the board and schematics there's a bunch of "optional" components that are installed if the tell tale battery is installed. I decided to remove U24 from the 4402 board, it's a regulator that supplies the charging voltage for the battery. I then installed the board, and it booted just fine. Power cycled it a few times and it booted every time. I've attach some pictures and the schematic for those who are interested in them.
Jim, the battery on your board needs to go anyhow, so try it without the battery and see if it boots. It looks like you may have a 4402W board from the way the components are laid out, if so it should hopefully work fine with just the battery removed. Let us know what you find out.
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Excellent information and detective work Tilt! :1:
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Tilt...its was with the legacy adapter board and legacy software.
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I had the same results as Tilt with my 044 board with the battery. And with the legacy board, I got no screen. So you will probably need to swap out the battery.
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Thanks for the awesome post & great information Tilt! :1:
The board that I have is the 75704402W Rev B.
So I may be in luck!
I am going to pull it off tomorrow, and see what happens.. :yes:
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Well, I took the battery off, and the good news is, it works just fine.
The bad news is now the colors are off on the monitor. It looks like all the red colors are gone.
I did try a different board with the same game and the monitor works just fine.
I'm not quite sure what happened, any ideas? :Scratch-Head:
Thanks everyone !
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check for bent pins in the mpu board that connect to the backplane.
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all the pins look good.
check for bent pins in the mpu board that connect to the backplane.
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Since you tried it with another MPU board with the same game in the same cabinet, and all the colors look fine, then there's obviously something with the MPU board. Did you check the traces around the battery to make sure nothing is shorting or damaged? Look under the board as well as I know there's quite a few connection on the other side, which could have gotten "jumped" with stray solder as you de-soldered the battery.
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I was thinking along the same lines as Rick, posssibly a bent pin or a stray solder bridge. There really aren't many traces in the immediate area of the battery to damage like on a S2000 50X MPU, and most of the components near the battery are used for the audio & DC-DC power supplies. I really don't see how removing the battery would cause the loss of a video color, but since it worked before you removed the battery it couldn't hurt to put it back on just to make 100% sure that isn't the cause.
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Thinking the same thing as well. Was the battery desoldered, or was it cut off? Stray solder can cause strange results. Believe me, I was fighting this working on a CRT chassis not too long ago. I can't understand how disconnecting a battery would create a loss of one color.
Jason
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OK, My original thought was that I had overheated something on the board removing the battery, and ruined the color.
Well, I have been messing with this board today, and finally success! :applause:
I found a couple of very small solder spots on the bottom of the board, I got them off.
I also changed out the tray. It was a little bent on the bottom, so the board didn't sit flat on the posts on the tray.
So I am happy, and relieved That it is working correctly again!
Thanks everyone for the comments and help :thank_you:
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Good deal! Glad you were able to get it working and now ya don't have to worry about that leaky battery either. :applause:
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From this conversation i have got a solution for two of my boards that are stuck on zero checking rush
thank you very much.
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Glad it helped you out :applause:
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For what it's worth, the 75704402W Rev B version with the DB-9 connector may or may not work with only the green Varta battery removed. If you set up all of the options successfully, but you get a "Battery Low" message that won't clear at the end of the setup process, even with a brand new coin cell battery, you'll need to also remove U24 from the board. Once that's done, do a complete clear with Key28 again, and your game will be right as rain.
Thanks,
Jason
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Just figured I would add to the knowledge base on this thread:
Version 75704400 Rev A - Will lock up while booting on "Zero Checking Flash" if the green battery is low, dead, or removed. With U24 removed it will boot just fine without the battery.
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Hey guys. I'm a bit confused here... :Scratch-Head:
I have read all the posts in this thread, and tried removing the varta battery on 4400 revA, 4402 revA, and some others. Not even one of them works now. Not even with U24 removed and RAMLEARed.
What am I doing wrong?
One of the boards (4400 rev A) is now saying "TELLTALE BATTERY LOW". What am I to do? I think I just messed up 4 motherboards...
Thanks for any help.
BR
Dan.
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What am I doing wrong?
One of the boards (4400 rev A) is now saying "TELLTALE BATTERY LOW". What am I to do? I think I just messed up 4 motherboards...
Are you by any chance using game software from an international jurisdiction? You cannot play a game for an international jurisdiction without the Tell Tale battery under any circumstance (even with U24 removed).
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Are you by any chance using game software from an international jurisdiction? You cannot play a game for an international jurisdiction without the Tell Tale battery under any circumstance (even with U24 removed).
Hmm... How can I tell? I'm stationed in Europe, the game is € based (Cleaopatra II).
BR
Dan.
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Yep, if it's euro based it is an international version. Won't work without the Varta battery. I had to get an 044 board with the varta specifically to play an international flashboard that I have. So you will have to source an 044 mpu with a Varta setup.
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Yep, if it's euro based it is an international version. Won't work without the Varta battery. I had to get an 044 board with the varta specifically to play an international flashboard that I have. So you will have to source an 044 mpu with a Varta setup.
Thanks rickhunter. So I just destroyed 3 perfectly good boards... yeey me... :banghead:
Thanks for explaining.
BR
Dan
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Yep, if it's euro based it is an international version. Won't work without the Varta battery. I had to get an 044 board with the varta specifically to play an international flashboard that I have. So you will have to source an 044 mpu with a Varta setup.
Thanks rickhunter. So I just destroyed 3 perfectly good boards... yeey me... :banghead:
Thanks for explaining.
BR
Dan
You can always buy a new battery and solder it back on, along with U24. :duh:
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You can use those boards for US flash boards. So don't toss them, of course you could always put the parts back if there was no damage done when you removed the components.
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Yep, if it's euro based it is an international version. Won't work without the Varta battery. I had to get an 044 board with the varta specifically to play an international flashboard that I have. So you will have to source an 044 mpu with a Varta setup.
Thanks rickhunter. So I just destroyed 3 perfectly good boards... yeey me... :banghead:
Thanks for explaining.
BR
Dan
You can always buy a new battery and solder it back on, along with U24. :duh:
I know, I didn't say I wasn't going to do that.
You can use those boards for US flash boards. So don't toss them, of course you could always put the parts back if there was no damage done when you removed the components.
I will, thanks. Fortunately, I am delicate enough that I took them off with respect :D :cool_thumb_up:
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Here's a Youtube video I made that shows the quickest & easiest way to remove U24 that I've found. No soldering required and you don't have to remove the board from the tray either. Just remove the 044 flash card (or legacy adapter board if you're running 3902 software) so you can get access to the battery and U24.
http://youtu.be/_U6oaT9XwuI (http://youtu.be/_U6oaT9XwuI)
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:agreepost: Great video! Very helpful!
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For what it's worth, the 75704402W Rev B version with the DB-9 connector may or may not work with only the green Varta battery removed. If you set up all of the options successfully, but you get a "Battery Low" message that won't clear at the end of the setup process, even with a brand new coin cell battery, you'll need to also remove U24 from the board. Once that's done, do a complete clear with Key28 again, and your game will be right as rain.
Thanks,
Jason
Just ran into this exact problem with a 75704402W Rev A board - only removed the battery first; but managed to get by the Bat Low message after config - but it kept randomly coming up later. After removing U24 the board was stable.