New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => Bally Alpha (Cinevision), and ALL Bally "V___" series - V5000, V2000, V1000, etc. => Topic started by: Chris-socal on July 05, 2017, 10:15:27 PM
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I recently acquired a V1000 in generally good condition. The game does not start but the coin count lights and hold buttons light up. I secretly hoped it would be a cap kit and solder joints on the sound board but I am not so lucky this time. I am aiming for "play blind" mode because someone attempted /failed at installing a cap kit on the video board and its a project all its own.
I checked the following on the 4-stack of boards: Traces, Caps, ribbons, solder joints, and I re-seated chips. I found one 470 cap that was bad. Voltages look good and someone replaced a cap on the PS board (1993).
Lastly, I am confident that the audio amp works because it crackles at startup and plays some hum through the speakers when turned in.
If I cannot get the game to play blind I am not going to put effort into the video board. Here is what I need help with:
1. I would greatly appreciate a close up photo of the 20-pin wire connector on the right side. Mine is falling apart and a wire fell out. Pic 1&2.
2. Can someone confirm the 20 pin connector plugs in with the wires facing down? All the others plug in with the wires coming out on the top of the connector. My connector is so shot that the alignment plug is gone. It was plugged in with the wires down when I got it. Pic 3
3. Can someone educate me on where the top sound board gets power? Does it come in through the ribbons? The yellow LED next to the reset does not light, is it supposed to be on all the time or only during boot? The reset button makes the relay in back click but has no other effect.
A schematic might help but I’m not sure I could read one for a stack of 4 boards!
Thanks for any general advice on this machine, any information is good information at this point.
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I noticed that there is open burnt spot on the plug next to the other black wire. That's where your loose wire goes. Bally tends to group the same color wires together on these connections. Be it Black or Grey with a blue track or Red with black, they usually are next to each other. A lot of your problems should be better once that connector is replaced. Wires memory should give you an idea how that plug goes on to the board, but I see scribed on the back of that plug J1 with an arrow you pointing up.
Is your V1000 a poker or video slot machine? I know there is not much for information on these here, but you could look on the old sight. http://newlifegames.net/nlg/ (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/)
Sounds like your good repairing boards and that's good since boards for these are hard to find.
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Right, I mark all connectors before I remove them the first time. I also take pics. But someone else was clearly working on it and its not working so I want to be sure its correct. I saw another post made by another user of that side of the board. Thanks for the advice, I will work on sourcing the connector.
My machine is Video Poker.
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BTW the archive site is not allowing new registration.
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I'm pretty sure you have to be a Contributing member to go to the old site.
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Maybe a public contributing member. I give privately.
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The old site can be accessed without being a member. It's all there, far as I can see. I just logged out of the site and went back to it and I had access to most all the topics.
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Thanks. I thought you had to create a new log on. I se I can browse through the topics, no search function.
Can someone tell me the name of the 20 pin electrical connector I posted? What do they call those?
Thanks!
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Thanks. I thought you had to create a new log on. I se I can browse through the topics, no search function.
Can someone tell me the name of the 20 pin electrical connector I posted? What do they call those?
Thanks!
This is what I have used, or if you have a local electronics story near you, then you could buy 2 ten pin plugs. I have done that in the past too.. Those press connectors that are used in those Bally machines are junk.. They don't make a solid connection and can cause over heating as you can tell by that plug.. You will need a proper crimping tool to crimp those connectors to the wires. I have even put a small dab or solder on them for a sure solid connection.. You should have more then enough wire to use this plug..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-POWER-SUPPLY-CONNECTION-/350252825206?hash=item518cb1fa76:m:mnkXSbJHsnwjhO2XCor5Mng (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-POWER-SUPPLY-CONNECTION-/350252825206?hash=item518cb1fa76:m:mnkXSbJHsnwjhO2XCor5Mng)
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Great suggestion on the connector. My local store had 15 pin so I used 15+5. Unfortunately I still don't get any life out of the board (s). I think I will go the thread where the other member posted pictures of his machine and ask if he can send close up's of his connectors and tell me how the LED should behave. I now wonder if one or some of the transistors on one of the boards is not switching. There are so many I'm almost ready to call it an anchor and send it to landfill. I hate to say this, some of you will laugh, but it was easier to get my 1982 Summit Coin slot working and it was a rats nest when I got it.
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I know a person that had a V1000, but I think he sold it. I'll send him a message. If you give up on it, don't throw it away. I'm sure that someone could use it for parts. Heck I'd take it. I have a grave yard here of old machines. You might want to try taking your board stack apart and reseat any socketed IC"s and check for any cold solder joint. Just doing those two things can breath some life into a machine. Same thing with any plugs on the power supply and distribution boards. Tin plated connectors tarnish and will loose there connections.
FYI.. I just typed Bally V1000 in the sights search box and quiet a few things popped up.
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Here is a pic of the right side connector. This is looking at the top of the board. I have a working V1000. Let me know what you need help with to get this going. Check in the lower part of cabinet behind the coin hopper and check the fuses on the power supply board. There is also some black fuses holders to the right of the power supply. These black fuse holders are problematic due to age. The internal metal parts break and lose connection. It's best to remove the entire fuse holder assembly and inspect it. It's held in with 2 screws and the wire harness has a Molex connector to easily remove it. The LED on my board does not light up . It may only be lit when there is a problem? Take a look at the bottom board of the stack of 4. There is a battery soldered on there and check for acid damage. Maybe your monitor has issues? I believe there is a fuse on the monitor chassis. Rotate the volume pot back and forth several times and see if you get the startup tones. Boards maybe working but not the monitor. Maybe adjust the brightness on the CRT. If you scrap it, I am interested in parts as well. Tim
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Thank you Tim. You know, I checked voltage on the PS board and I checked the fuses but I didn't pull that fuse housing. I should have because I had another machine where the fuse holders fell apart. I replaced the battery with an off-board but I assume it's it necessary to boot the machine.
As for the video board, it looks like someone put it through a cold iron torture chamber, I don't expect it to work. If I can get an audible beep at boot I wil start working on the video board. I assume the game will beep or something even if it's throwing an error???
Thanks again for the pics and other pointers. You are first in line if I parts it out.
Chris
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Chris... Tim is the person I was hoping still had his V1000, and could help with pics. We texted last night..
Tim, Thanks for getting the pics posted so fast.. I didn't know if you kept the V1000 for your self or sold it.. I wish I had never sold the one I had, it was a cool game to play... At least I still have a Bally V2000..
Gary
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Chris. Rotate the volume pot which is on the left side top board of the stack about center. Rotate it back and forth several times so it gets a good connection. They oxidize from age. When you power up the game it goes through a short test and makes tones as it goes through this test. I'm not sure which way is full volume. Try it in both directions. If you are getting these tones you may have a CRT issue?
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There are unquestionably CRT issues. The board is a mess. I have been working on cleaning up the solder joints that a previous owner botched up.
Tim, thanks for the wire harness pictures, I was off one notch on the center set. I checked the fuse box and the holders look really good, continuity tested across the fuses just fine. The Game still does not boot other than a few buttons light up and the change light on top occasionally comes on. No sound other than cravkling when first powered on. The amp is clearly getting signal.
Does anyone knows someone in southern CA who has a V1000 I could put my rack into so I could determine if the boards are even working? I know it seems like cheating but with this many components it seems like the only sure way to figure out what elements are working.
Thanks all for the continued ideas.
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Chris. have you reseated all the chips and ribbon cables on all the boards? Is the power supply putting out all voltages? also check the small distribution board for blown traces. There isn't much to it. Take it out and check the traces continuity . Not sure if you are interested in spending money on shipping to Michigan and back, but if so I will test the 4 card stack for you.
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Chris, Do you know what CRT chassis is in the game? Some were converted to Ceronix, I think the original ones were Wells Gardener, or something like that.
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It says Toshiba. There were clearly heat issues with the video board. I have a spare Ceronix 1492 chassis I could connect if I knew they used the same format.
Are you referring to the board that is to the right of the PS? Is that the distribution board? If so, that is the only board I didn't pull and check traces.
I verified 5 and 12v on the PS and also on that front board that connects the stack together. I figure if there is voltage there its getting to the boards. I verified continuity across every ribbon cable and I re-seated all chips.
I was hoping for someone somewhat local but I might send the board to you if I cannot find someone. Thanks for offering. There was a member Dan that had one in Socal.
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Yes . The board to the right of the PS. Maybe Dan Ellis is the person closer to you?
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Yes, he got ahold of me. He no longer has his V1000. I will keep plugging away. This is a lot more fun when you start getting signs of life as you tinker!
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Hello Tim, are you still interested in any parts from this machine? Or the whole machine? I have tinkered to the extent of my interest since 2017! I want to play one of these Ballys but I think it would be smarter to find one that is in working order.
Here are a few pics.
Chris
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Hi Chris. Your in box is full. Let me know when I can PM you. I am interested. Thank You Tim