New Life Games LLC
Monitor Repair Log and Database. **Arcade and Gaming** => LCD and CRT Monitor Repair Tech Support => Topic started by: shortrackskater on June 09, 2015, 09:09:46 PM
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I've been putting off this project too long. I want to make some sets of extension cables for my old video slots. I'm starting with my Status slot with the electrohome monitor. I went to my local electronics place, not Radio Shack, and they had some that looked like them but were larger and smaller! Does anyone know how I can identify this plug so I can buy another male and female to make an extension? I know I can just change out all the plugs to a new type but I was trying to do the least amount of cutting.
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What are you trying to accomplish?
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Adjust things like horizontal, vertical position etc... They're all on the back side of the monitor. I can sort of reach one with a wood stick but I'm a bit leery of zapping myself. :lightningbolt: :lightningbolt: :lightningbolt: And it's really awkward to try doing that.
This is for my old-as-the-hills Status machine.
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Don't fish in the dark my friend. I've been zapped, and it's not a good time. Where are the controls on this monitor? Does it slide out?
Jason
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It slides out. All the controls except contrast are in the back. I had borrowed someone's extension cables for my Fortune one and it was great, so I'd like to make some for my machines now.
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Hmmm....I'm guessing these plug types don't exist.
Let's try a different approach... Does anyone know if it would hurt to add 5 feet to the CRT cable? I'm thinking of just splicing in the additional cable but I'm not sure if there would be any signal loss or chance of some kind of weird inductive interference.
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While I'm no expert on these machines, my experience with electronics says if there is no shielded wire present. A separate wire run along with a communication cable only hooked up on one end. It catches the interference you are describing. Since the wiring is just single wires run to a Molex type connector, not much chance of line loss. It would take a lot of wire to get a loss, since these are a low wattage line. I don't think you'll see a difference in function other than you won't pee yourself if you get too close to the anode on the tube. :duh: If it was me I'd go for it, these machines aren't made to be that difficult. Says the guy on the S+ machine. :cool_thumb_up:
Dave
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You know the more I look at that picture the more it looks like an appliance plug. They use those on washers, dryers, fridges etc. That double clasp is common on those. Maybe a trip to a local appliance repair might get you what you need. In the old days whatever was available is generally used. Just a thought.
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It is what's called a MOLEX connector, after the Molex company that invented it and standardized it throughout
the electronics industry in the 60's through 80's; although other manufacturers have made components to the same standard.
Still very common, but many fewer products these days require the heavy amperage these connectors can handle, nor permit
the large space they require.
One buys separate crimp-on male pins and female sockets; and the mating housings based on pin-count and configuration.
Various features are available like lock-into-sheet-metal housing or lock male-to-female housings together for "flying" connections; the ones you show have such "ears." Not required for what you need, friction fit will do fine.
Check virtually any electronics parts house like Mouser, or even Radio Shack [oooops...:) ]
(And technically you would need the genuine Molex-style crimping tool available for MuchBux; but not really.)
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Thanks Dave and Jim :)
I knew it was a molex but thought that this particular one could have been something very common:
"Ahhh yes that's the M3478c type of course."
I think I may just go with splicing and adding 5 feet to the CRT cable. That way I won't have to change out the existing plugs. I'll just coil up the cord and make a spot to hang it inside the chassis.