New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: leocat168 on May 01, 2016, 03:58:17 PM
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Hi I recently purchased a IGT s plus double diamond from 1990. The owners had it from their parents and don't ever remember it being turned on. It seems a little different than the ones I'm seeing on here. specifically there is no Bill acceptor and the coin mechanism is not a comparator but completely mechanical. It seemed very clean and in good shape so I bought it and took it home. Upon turning it on I got the 12 code and changed the battery. powered up again and got the 61. pressed the white button until the ding and got the 61-1. shut the door and turned the jackpot key once and it went back to the 61. tried the process again but cant get it to go back to the 61-1 except for once in awhile seemingly randomly after messing with the key and maybe turning it on and off. But the 61-1 just goes back to the 61. Is this the 61 loop? do I need a clear chip? If so which one? Is there something else I should check first? There is also a white button which appears to be a signal for the door being closed ,that has nothing hooked up to it,(see pic) I appreciate any help. I love these types of things and would love to get it running. I'm very new to all this and only know what I have read on here. I've attached some pics. Thank you in advance
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Others here with more experience will give better advice than I can. You are probably right about it being an S+, but it possibly is an S instead of an S+. If you can post photos of the inside of the machine with the main door wide open, particularly the lower area where the hopper is, that will help to identify it. There is a large circuit board, called the "mpu", in the lower area. It is mounted to a metal plate called a tray, either along the side wall or the back wall. Closeup photos of that area are helpful to id the machine. If the mpu board connects to some wiring cables with connectors that slide onto the mpu then the machine is an S. If the mpu plugs into another smaller circuit board mounted on the floor of the machine (called the motherboard) then the machine is an S+. I think this is true in all cases.
The large white pushbutton switch is called a "cherry switch", named after the company that makes it. On some machines the cherry switch is not used and there are a couple of door optic sensors instead. The door optics are small round parts, one is mounted near the edge of the cabinet frame and the other on the door edge. An example of a door optic sensor is shown below.
I brightened your photo a little so I could see some details.
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If it has door optics it is an S+. S machines didn't have optics. If your left side looks like this you have an S+. Welcome to NLG! :applause:
Dave
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Almost positive its an s plus. it is written on the mpu and does have door optics i believe. I will post more pics momentarily thank you
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If it does have door optics then the white cherry switch won't be connected to anything, unless someone has added a mod or something.
If your door optics are working ok and aligned right then you may be in that error 61 loop and need to do a clear. If so, the CLEAR chips are available at lots of places like ebay, slot dealers here on NLG, etc. They are low cost so a lot of folks get one so they will have it if ever needed. I think the SET chip is only needed if you have to enable a bill validator.
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Is there an easy way to be sure the door optics are working?
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Sounds like the 61 loop. An IVC0103 should do the clear. You won't need a set chip since you don't have a bill validator on the early S+.
Dave
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picture
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Is there an easy way to be sure the door optics are working?
When you shut and latch the door with the error code showing, does the display blink off and come back on again? If so, the optics are working.
Dave
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Early S+ Dude! Got one myself.
Dave
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I'll try that,
another pic
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OK before you start that.....does that mpu board have acid damage from the dead battery? If it has leaked and damaged the board you may have to replace it. Don't want to be the bearer of bad tidings. Because if the board is damaged you'll likely never clear the 61. Make sure power is off before removing any boards.
Dave
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From the reading you've done you are probably aware, but just in case someone else is following this tread there is a volume control on the top edge of the mpu assembly. It is a small blue wheel, can be turned one way or the other to adjust sound level. Also, the mpu assembly is removed by pulling upward on the black knob mounted to the front of the mpu assembly. This will disengage the mpu from the motherboard connectors.
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The board looks ok where the battery was, anything that i should look for in particular?
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The little "volume knob" doesnt appear to move.... when I open and close the door the 61 on the display just stays constant..
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Might want to remove the mpu and see what's hanging up the volume control. It should move freely from one stop to the other. If you take out the mpu you can post a photo of it, maybe we can see something not right. Was the old battery leaking anything out of it, or was it just dead but clean? Since the mpu mounts vertically sometimes stuff comes out of the battery and drips down onto another area of the mpu or even the motherboard.
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Well if it's green crusty looks like a Zombie vomited on it that should stick out. If it's clean and the battery wasn't broke open....you should be fine. One I had where the battery leaked the displays just flashed and didn't do jack. I'm trying to cover all the bases before I send you out to order parts. Actually it just sounds like a really dead battery that didn't cause damage. I think you're in great shape. I think Rok suggested some places for clear chips. That sounds like the next step. Make sure wherever you buy the clear they send instructions to you. Good Luck and let us know how it goes. So how was your first night on NLG? :cool_thumb_up:
Dave
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A constant display sounds like the optics aren't working. But a damaged board could cause lots of problems.
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Here's a few examples of sources for CLEAR chips:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S-CLEAR-CHIP-/161613885555?hash=item25a0f03073:g:HO8AAOSwEeFU7Kwc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S-CLEAR-CHIP-/161613885555?hash=item25a0f03073:g:HO8AAOSwEeFU7Kwc)
http://jjslots.com/S-Plus_c19.htm (http://jjslots.com/S-Plus_c19.htm)
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=288&search=clear (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=288&search=clear)
http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/igtsset015ch.html (http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/igtsset015ch.html)
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=39 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=39)
Also, many of the slot machine vendors on the NLG homepage have them.
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The little "volume knob" doesnt appear to move.... when I open and close the door the 61 on the display just stays constant..
A volume pot could be just stuck. It's far from the battery and that shouldn't cause trouble.
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This is great to be able to talk to ppl who can help..!!!!. I really want to get this thing goin. Battery was clean just dead. the Volume control , I got to move it was just stiff. I'm suspect of that door optic tho. I'll be posting more pics just takes me awhile lol.. if I do get the chip Im not sure which or how it attaches lol
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Might want to remove the mpu and see what's hanging up the volume control. It should move freely from one stop to the other. If you take out the mpu you can post a photo of it, maybe we can see something not right. Was the old battery leaking anything out of it, or was it just dead but clean? Since the mpu mounts vertically sometimes stuff comes out of the battery and drips down onto another area of the mpu or even the motherboard.
Yes post some pics. Let's see if the MPU is the problem.
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Sometimes people can turn a volume pot hard past the endpoint and then it gets jammed. If your sound is working ok then you can worry about the volume control later, get the error 61 cleared up and enjoy playing the game. If you do look at the volume control you can examine it closely and maybe can see what is going on with it.
The volume control will look something like this, has its terminals soldered to the board.
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They'll send instructions on the chip. You can put a piece of tape on the the machine and pencil mark where the optic is. Then put one on the the door with the latch all the way down and mark it. When the door is shut with the latch down the marks should line up.
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ok pencil mark is slightly off... maybe 1/16 - 1/8 th but i also dont have the coin tray in... that might lift it the difference..
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I don't think the coin tray touches the door so it shouldn't matter. On some machines there is a metal lifting ramp mounted on the cabinet and a roller mounted on the door, so it helps to lift the door a little as the door is shut.
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I'm gonna put board hopper and tray back on and make sure im not off
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This is great to be able to talk to ppl who can help..!!!!. I really want to get this thing goin. Battery was clean just dead. the Volume control , I got to move it was just stiff. I'm suspect of that door optic tho. I'll be posting more pics just takes me awhile lol.. if I do get the chip Im not sure which or how it attaches lol
On the mpu board there are 2 main software chips, they are eproms, labelled on the board as GAME and REEL. These chips are mounted into sockets so they can be removed. To do a CLEAR procedure you remove one of these chips and install the CLEAR chip, then power up the machine to do the ram clear. The SET procedure is similar. As Shaggy said, the chip will come with instructions.
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ok pencil mark is slightly off... maybe 1/16 - 1/8 th but i also dont have the coin tray in... that might lift it the difference..
The coin tray won't make a difference. If the latch is going all the way down and the marks are off, you need to loosen the screws and move the the optic slightly. These are an emitter and a receiver and have to line up for the machine to work. Try a slight adjustment and see if the door closes and makes the displays blink.
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Do you just pull it off the board?
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Do you just pull it off the board?
Are you talking about the board tray? It should always be on. The coin tray is not important in this phase.
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Do you just pull it off the board?
not sure what you are referring to, I'm gonna be quiet for a bit so I don't get things confused. :garfield:
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ok I'm going to adjust the door optic slightly and send the pics of the mpu...brb
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DO NOT power anything up with the MPU out of the machine!
Dave
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no worries :yes:
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the adjustment wont go any further in the direction i actually need it to... but its only a hair off... and if i lift on the door slightly it lines up and still no change in the display :Scratch-Head:
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Generally S+ machines don't have optic problems but it never hurts to check.
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I'll try anything
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funny thing is i cant get it to go back to the 61-1 either
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But have you checked behind the optics to make sure there isn't a wire that has been pinched or broken? After getting to the 61-1 when you close the door it should clear and come back on and initiate or go back to 61. If the display doesn't clear, the optics are not working.
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when i first changed the battery and went through the motions i got the ding and the 61 -1 closed the door turned the jackpot key once and it went back to the 61... i was only able to get it to go back to the 61-1 once or twice again and i dont know how. i did a lot of open and closing the door and pressing the little white button... i dont see any pinched wires just the little plastic tab that hold the sensor on the machine side looks cracked like it may break off soon... but it doesn't look like that would change the function of the sensor
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If you want to try anything, come paint my house. :24:
But seriously, it shows 61, you push the test button (sometimes they don't ding) but it never goes beyond to 61-1? How about some pics of that Mpu board. I'm still suspicious about it. In all honesty there isn't that many things that make an S+ tick. Maybe the clear is still the way to go.
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Yeah the optic is maybe not the problem. But did you latch the door all the way before you turned the key? We have to cover all the bases.
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I'm actually really good at painting....lol.
Yeah door was all the way in and latched all the way down
Its on 61... and no matter how often i press the little whit button it doesnt seem to go back to 61-1.... I dont know why i'm having trouble uploading the pics keeps sayin fatal error... no luck with anything tonight... i'm gonna keep trying...
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pics?
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You're a Trouper Dude. Maybe try shutting off the machine and trying again. Don't know if that will work but, they are electronic apparatuses and sometimes they get confused. And don't get frustrated we are here all the time. If I can't get you fixed, we'll find somebody who can.
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Thanks,,, I think i will look into ordering the clear chip. how does the chip come off the board? ya just pull on it?
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There are "chip puller" tools but if you are careful a regular screwdriver can be used. Go back and forth from one end of the chip to the other, just prying it up a little at a time. Don't let the tip of the screwdriver scrape the circuit board underneath the chip.
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Well lots of people say to use a chip puller. Easy to order off E-bay etc. I just use a screw driver gently, on both ends and remove it. If you're forcing it you're doing it wrong. Gently will get the job done. When you have run the clear, go to the menu and set all the settings you need. A PSR is probably what you'll need. Let's cross that bridge when you get there................. Mike beat me to it!
Dave
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Thanks. Does it matter which chip i remove and put the clear chip in place of?
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As long as your eprom doesn't end up looking like this you are ok: :odie:
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Yes that will come with the instructions.
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lol.... ok thanks a great deal to you both for taking the time to help... I'm going to see about ordering the clear chip and get back to you when i see where that puts me.. talk soon!!!!
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Thanks. Does it matter which chip i remove and put the clear chip in place of?
Yes, it is important to remove the correct eprom (the GAME chip) and install the CLEAR chip in its socket.
Here is how Ohio Gaming says to do it, look down near the bottom of their page:
http://www.ohiogaming.com/replacementinstructions.htm (http://www.ohiogaming.com/replacementinstructions.htm)
Ram Clear
63. Ram Clear Procedures are normally done when error codes can not be cleared. Turn Power Off
64. Remove the coin tray and coin hopper.
65. Locate the round handle on the main board that is behind the hopper. Lift the handle straight up to remove the main board from the bottom board. Do not use force; there is a risk of damaging the bottom board if using excessive force.
66. Place the main board on a flat surface and locate the GAME PROM. These are well label on the board.
67. ATTENTION TO DETAIL: There is a notch in each end of the chips. Determine the direction that notch is in relation to the direction the main board. The new chip must be installed in the same direction. If the chip is not installed correctly, there is a high risk of destroying the data needed to operate the game or another function of the machine.
68. Locate the chip clearly marked as the GAME PROM on the main board and using a chip puller (recommended) or a small flat blade screwdriver (not recommended but can be done). Avoid damaging or bending the legs on the chip. If you do you can straighten them out only so many times then risk breaking off a leg.
69. Install the new RAM CLEAR with the notch in the same direction as the one just removed. The notch in the chip must be installed in the same direction. Use caution when installing the chip so that you do not fold over any of the legs on the CHIP.
70. Make sure the legs are matched to the holding socket before installing. If one or more of the legs do bend, it must be straighten before proceeding. Push down on the top of the CHIP firmly until the chip is seated completely into the holding socket. Visually check that all the legs are properly inserted into the holding socket. Even if one leg is not seated into the holding socket, the game will not operate.
72. To re-install the main board, use care and again DO NOT use excessive force, there is a risk of damaging the pins on the bottom board. The board must align on both sides of the tray holder. Firmly push the main board into place. It must be completely seated onto the bottom board. If it doesn’t feel right, it probably isn't. Stop and try again, you will know when it is installed correctly.
73. Turn power on and press the white test switch button once. There will be a set of numbers counting up on the door. Once it is at "2 999". Turn power off and replace the original GAME PROM and follow the error code list.
Good luck!
hope that clears up your error 61 problem.
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Also, Ohio Gaming offers this advice when trying to get rid of an error 61. After turning the reset key you need to ensure you wait several seconds before doing anything else. (they say it can take a full 8 seconds). And when you press the self test button you need to hold it in long enough to have effect. Sometimes people release it too soon. See the notes and instructions for error 61 here:
http://www.ohiogaming.com/igterrorcodestroubleshooting.htm (http://www.ohiogaming.com/igterrorcodestroubleshooting.htm)
They offer support if you want to call them, and it isn't just on machines they have sold. They say they can often take care of errors like this over the phone.
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Thank you for the information.. I'm pretty much at the point now where its pretty much i'm thinking I'll need that clear chip and have the info to install. I"m going to try to find one from where you suggested and give it a try
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The CLEAR chip is good to have, even if it doesn't take care of this problem you may need it eventually, especially if you end up liking these things and get another one. :yes:
What Shaggy said about how your display should blink when you shut the door troubles me. Since your display does not blink I'm not sure your optics are working right but I'm not an expert. But if they aren't then that probably is the cause of the error 61 and a CLEAR chip won't fix a hard fail on an optics problem. I've heard something about how you can check the door optics tx part by using a digital camera to look at it or take a photo of it, the camera is able to see the infrared light, which verifies the optic tx is working. Also, I was thinking the machine had an optics test in the test/diag menu that will check things too but I may be wrong about that.
This is one of those times when we do the best we can on advice but you may need to try different things to get it working. At least you'll get more familiar with your machine and learn along the way, that's always worthwhile.
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You should get a SET chip also.
You need to use one of these to activate the bill validator after a game change or a clear.
Set 15 and a Set 90 would be recommended.
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His machine doesn't have a bill validator, it is an early S+, so I don't think he would ever need a SET chip on this machine, even after a game theme change.
But I suppose if getting a SET and CLEAR chip pair wasn't that much more cost than the CLEAR chip only it would make sense to get both chips if he thought he may get another S+ down the road. They are often bundled together as a package sale.
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I've ordered the clear chip for now.. I figure either way it can't hurt to have it on hand... I'm also concerned about the door optic sensor.. I remember reading somewhere about the camera/picture test... I'm gonna look for the post and try that.
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You can look through the camera and see a beam, it's too fast for human's eyes. The emitter will show up on a phone camera.
Although I tried it and I can't see anything. :hissyfit:
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Shaggy- since the display is not blinking when the door is closed and that means the door optics are not working right, if they are aligned correctly then other than a bad door optic rx or tx is there anything else to check? Do the door optic cables both plug into the motherboard or mpu, someone may have unplugged one of them??
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Shaggy- since the display is not blinking when the door is closed and that means the door optics are not working right, if they are aligned correctly then other than a bad door optic rx or tx is there anything else to check? Do the door optic cables both plug into the motherboard or mpu, someone may have unplugged one of them??
Well generally speaking yes. On my early S+ like Leo's, if the machine is on and at idle and I open the door the bottom of the candle flashes and the credits,winner paid display go blank. The coin in goes to zero. When you close the door the zero disappears like the other two. A few seconds later all the displays come back on. The candle continues to flash until a paid credit is played. From what I could trace out...It looks like the door optic goes to the MPU. And the cabinet optic looks like it goes to the back plane. Never hurts to check the back plane for unplugged wires or to just unplug and reseat them. With the power off of course. Bad optics are not uncommon.
Dave
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Thanks for that info, appreciate you tracing back the door optic wiring. At least the door optic parts are not too costly if he ends up changing one or both of them.
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Exactly and S+ and S2000 use the same optics.
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From what I've read you just have to be careful about not getting the emitter and receiver optics reversed. IGT used the same connector on both so you could get them installed opposite from what they should be. Maybe the colors of the wires are different from the emitter and the receiver, or there is a part number stamped on the optic so you can match that up.
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Thanks guys... I tried the Camara trick but I don't see anything ... I have managed to get the machine to pretty consistently go from the 61 to 61-1. By turning the jackpot key and cycling through what appears to be some type of diagnostics until 61 comes up .. I then open ...hold the white button.... It dings and goes to 61-1.... I close the door turn the jackpot key once... It clears then after about ten seconds goes back to 61..... But !!!! During this I noticed the candle stops flashing while the door is closed and flashes again when I open it... So I'm assuming the optics are working..
Just waiting on that chip to arrive !!! :drool04:
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It actually sounds like it. Glad to see you getting comfortable with the machine. I tried the camera thing too........Yeah i couldn't get it to work either. :hissyfit: Get the chip cross your fingers and let us know. :cool_thumb_up:
Dave
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Thanks ... I love this type of thing.!! I'm thinking if the chip process works I'll need to do a lot of setting up afterwards in order to get it to be usable at home... Have a feeling that'll be a challenge...... But it'll be great to get this old thing running!!
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That's where the PSR comes in. We'll cross that bridge then. :yes:
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.... I tried the Camara trick but I don't see anything ...
Ya mean you didn't see the light beam like these guys did??
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No sir .. I did not... So question... Is the machine I have a "double" double diamond? And is that different than a double diamond? If so how ?
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According to the first photo (shown below) of your machine you posted at the beginning of the thread your machine is a 2 coin max "Double Double Diamond". IGT made several variations on the "Diamond" game theme due to its popularity and there are differences between the various games. There is a Double Diamond, a Triple Diamond, even a Triple Double Diamond, etc, IGT milked this game theme as much as possible. Some of the games have "Deluxe" in the name such as Double Diamond Deluxe, they were extra popular due to their "nudge" feature.
There is a way by pressing the test button inside the machine to have it display the eprom software number (called the "SS" number) that is installed in your machine so you can find out detailed info about your game, such as payback percentage.
Check out this info, it lists the various IGT S slot games, you will see a lot of "Diamond" games:
http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%202CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%202CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus.htm)
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Leo if you're wanting to know how to find out the number of your Reel chip do this. Open the door and press the test button until you get a 4 in the coins played window. Two sets of numbers will start flashing. One is the SP chip (game) and the other is the SS chip (reel).
Dave
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I have managed to get the machine to pretty consistently go from the 61 to 61-1. By turning the jackpot key and cycling through what appears to be some type of diagnostics until 61 comes up .. I then open ...hold the white button.... It dings and goes to 61-1.... I close the door turn the jackpot key once... It clears then after about ten seconds goes back to 61..... But !!!! During this I noticed the candle stops flashing while the door is closed and flashes again when I open it... So I'm assuming the optics are working..
Sounds somewhat promising. You're mostly describing the "61 loop" where it goes from 61, to 61-1, back to 61. A RAM clear chip should fix that.
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Thanks ! That's what I'm hoping.... Can't wait for the dam chip to arrive ...lol
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Ok so apparently I have a ss6201 reel chip... I looked it up on the chart but not sure what the columns mean... I know it may be premature.. But I want the game to pay out decently so if I need a different reel chip for that I was wondering if a good time to do it is when I use the clear chip.. And before the machine gets set up.
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From reading the chart for an SS6201 chip it has about a 90% payback, that is in the lower half of payback percentages but not the worst. You could replace it with a different SS chip that has a higher payback percentage. But you may not see a lot of difference as these percentages are based on thousands of spins over time, in the short run you can have higher or lower results with any SS chip. They are easy to change if you want to do it and technically an SS with a higher payback percentage should be more fun to play since the player will win more money. Different casinos order machines with different win percentages, that's why there are so many different ones available. If I was playing in a casino I'd want the machine to have the 98% chip installed, but for home use some people do not like the machine to be too easy to win, it dilutes the excitement of playing.
I think the columns showing Hit Freq and Win Freq are how often you will get some kind of a win or something like that.
The Stops column refers to how many virtual (electronic memory) stops the game has in its game play matrix, including blank or white spaces. On your game there are 64 possible stops for each reel. Each strip itself doesn't have 64 different possible symbols, so some physical strip positions are used multiple times. With 3 reels, each reel having 64 stops will give you 64x64x64 different combinations. I think the letter code "AAA" means all three reel strips are the same, on some machines the reel strips have different symbols or they are in a different order. On those machines the reel strips code could be "ABA" or even "ABC".
Top Award is the most number of coins you can win if you hit the rarest combination of symbols with a bet of 1 or 2 coins.
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Thanks... I think I should probably just get goin and see how it performs before changing anything..
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An idea to consider after you get your machine working and have played it for a while,,,,,
If you get to visit a casino you can look for a machine like yours, and other variations of "Diamond" machines, to compare them. If you see a machine with the word "Deluxe" in the name, such as Double Diamond Deluxe, give it a try. It has what is called a "nudge" feature and many players find it especially fun to play. When the reels stop on a non-winning combination if any of them are in a certain position they will click and move one more stop, with a forward or reverse movement, and land in a potential winning position. This little feature adds an extra excitement that keep the player on his toes.
If you liked this "nudge" feature you could convert your machine, would just need to replace the 2 eproms (possibly just 1 eprom) on the mpu board. It would be nice to also replace the glass on the machine so it would match the game play, especially the glass that shows the paytable/award. But many players don't pay attention to the glass so that isn't absolutely necessary. The glass is fairly easy to change and doesn't cost a lot. Before doing it you should probably play a Double Diamond Deluxe just to see if its game play appealed to you enough to make converting your machine worth it.
Below are a couple of the "Deluxe" type of Diamond machines. These are S2000 machines instead of an S+ like yours but you can still sometimes find these games in S+ machines at some of the smaller or older casinos. The S2000 is easily recognized by the large external speakers on both sides of the machine just below the top glass. Also, you'll see that IGT started writing the word "Credits" instead of "Coins" on the glass signage on the newer machines as the use of coins went away. Newer machines only work with paper currency bills or printed tickets, so the word "credits" has replaced "coins".
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I do go to casinos all the time that's why I got this... Love the way the old styles feel... I never usually play this type so your right, I am gonna try it at the casino.. To see what it's like..I usually play the video slot... Wicked winnings , Buffalo's, and that type..... But I think the older reel type are what feels like a casino
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I do go to casinos all the time that's why I got this... Love the way the old styles feel.....
Ha! You're going to fit in around here with the rest of us just fine! :garfield:
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Lol. Thanks...
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I do go to casinos all the time that's why I got this... Love the way the old styles feel.....
Ha! You're going to fit in around here with the rest of us just fine! :garfield:
You haven't even got it going yet. Dude you're screwed. Welcome to the addiction! :yes: :wave:
Dave
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Lol.. Yea Im definitely hooked... This machine is right next to my restored1949 Westinghouse tube radio/phono.. They don't make things like they used to... Even as a decoration the igt double diamond is awesome ! Can't wait to hear the sound of the coins dropping.. Lol
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Hey guys.. Got my clear chip in and went through the clear process.. Got a 65-1... Cleared that and it works!!!! I played it for quite awhile... Love the sound of the coins hitting the metal pan!! Coins go into the hopper which seems right.. Hopper pays accurately... All buttons seem to work as well as sound and lights...only thing I notice is the lights in the cash credit and play two credits don't work.... But is there anything else I should do as far a set up that I don't know ?
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Did you use the set chip to turn on BV and set the denom. to .25 or .05 or whatever? If you look at the S+ page you will find a line marked "Typical settings for home use " Even if you don't have the same chip, most settings will be the same. You can set it so all wins go to the credit meter instead of paying to the tray, etc.
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Does it pay out when it wins? Or do you have to cash it out? If it pays out immediately and doesn't store credits, then the play 2 credits button probably won't light up as there are no credits to play. On some machines you can push the cash/credit button to toggle between credits and cash. Have you tried pushing it? Also could just be bulbs.
Dave
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It's definitely the bulb because it will toggle between cashing out and storing credits... I think I saw somewhere they can be changed to led.. I wouldn't mind trying that... Also the writing on some of the buttons is pretty faded, do they sell replacents?? Is it difficult to change the bulbs? By the way ... Thanks guys!!! You helped me get this goin and I love it !!
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Also I saw the post about typically settings for home use... I don't have a full hopper of quarters and am wondering what will happen in a big payout if it runs out of quarters... Should I change the settings.. Where can I find out exactly how for my machine... Shaggy what is yours set to?? Do you use coins or coinless. I have a sp731 chip
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If you change to a 1271 you can set the hopper to zero and if cashed out, just a turn of the J/P switch or even set it to pay say 50 coins then the rest hand pay with a turn of the switch. Love the 1271.
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Thanks... Sounds interesting... I'll look into it
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Also I saw the post about typically settings for home use... I don't have a full hopper of quarters and am wondering what will happen in a big payout if it runs out of quarters... Should I change the settings.. Where can I find out exactly how for my machine... Shaggy what is yours set to?? Do you use coins or coinless. I have a sp731 chip
Hey Leo, if you have the hopper limit set up high (some are set at 1000) if you hit a big one you are going to be feeding coins back in for a while. :banghead: Mine use coins. When I get the urge to get dirty fingers and listen to the "clinks", I set my hopper limit to say 100 coins. Then when it hits you can get your coins. If you hit a big one it will go to a "hand pay" and wait for you to turn the reset key and count the credits off. You'll "lose" the credits but aren't stuck pouring quarters back in the machine. Mine doesn't have the cash/credit option. Only the cash out. You have the best of both worlds with yours. You can control the machine with the hopper limit.
Here's a link to the PSR for your 731 chip. http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=1051 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=1051)
Hope this helps. You're doing awesome for your first machine. :cool_thumb_up:
Dave
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Thanks !!! Shaggy/Dave lol. I'll check out the link.... I just found the dip switch that controls the reel spin sound.. It was off... Seemed like something was missing ....it looks like the dip switches may have some control over the hopper as well ... Plus the game speed.... Is that the reel speed... I'll test it out... I think I'm gonna keep the original buttons and replace the incandescent bulbs... I kinda like the vintage look... Thanks for your help..!!!
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Thanks !!! Shaggy/Dave lol. I'll check out the link.... I just found the dip switch that controls the reel spin sound.. It was off... Seemed like something was missing ....it looks like the dip switches may have some control over the hopper as well ... Plus the game speed.... Is that the reel speed... I'll test it out... I think I'm gonna keep the original buttons and replace the incandescent bulbs... I kinda like the vintage look... Thanks for your help..!!!
There are some of our vendors who carry the inserts for the buttons. Sorry I forgot that. Those PSRs can be a little confusing, may have to go through it a time or two. Kinda like the proverbial stereo instructions. You're doing your homework and that's the key to getting things set up. One of the dip switches controls whether it's set for IDO 22 or 23. I think Jim made a post about that here a couple of weeks ago. Good luck.
Dave
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Some of these inserts/button legends and decals might be what you need:
http://www.spininc.com/buttons#/specFilters=2m (http://www.spininc.com/buttons#/specFilters=2m)!#-!2978
If you want to replace the entire button:
http://www.spininc.com/73483-0 (http://www.spininc.com/73483-0)
or maybe:
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=IGT%20button (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=IGT%20button)
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Thanks so what is and IDO ?.... And thanks rok those are very helpful... Hope I'm not a pain but another question...are the reels supposed to spin the same length of time each spin? Or is it random?? It seems sometimes the duration of the spin is relatively quick.
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Random on the spins. Here's a link to IDO.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=10736.msg58120#msg58120 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=10736.msg58120#msg58120)
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Thanks !!!!
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The bill validators that are used in slot machines are made by independent companies, such as JCM and others. The bill validator has to communicate with the slot machine mpu board to tell it things like "someone inserted a bill, put some credits on the machine" and stuff like that, so there is a "comm" link between the bill validator and the mpu board. That's what part of the wiring that goes to the bill validator is for. Like all computers this comm link has to use a communication method that both devices (slot machine & bill validator in this case) understand. The communication link for the bill validator is controlled by its installed software, which is usually stored in a flash rom or an eprom, that way the software can be updated as time goes by for things like new bill designs.
Each slot machine manufacturer designs its own mpu boards, so IGT does it different from Bally, which is different from Williams, which is different from Sigma, Universal, etc. And they all use a different communication method. These methods are called a comm "protocol". These protocols are given an identification number, such as ID-022 or ID-023. This means when you install a bill validator in an IGT machine it has to have the correct protocol or it can't communicate with the mpu board. If you take a bill validator out of an IGT machine to use it in a Bally machine you'd need to change the software inside the bill validator to the Bally version. When JCM and the other bill validator manufacturers build the bill validator they install the correct software for whatever machine the slot company tells them it is for.