New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: peasoup on March 06, 2016, 11:12:14 AM
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I've recently purchased a Game King with a 3902 board and noticed that on the Power Keno and a couple of the poker games that the sound isn't right. I'll only describe one of the problems to hopefully make this easier for me. On Power Keno as the balls come out, it appears that each one has extra reverb in the sound and also when there is a 'hit' the ding seems extra long (both somewhat static-y). Also when counting up credits won. But Cleopatra Keno and Caveman Keno the sound seems to be right. I'm not sure if I need to focus on the sound board or the chip with the sound effects. Increasing/decreasing game volume does not fix this.
I've noticed a "hum" when switching games (almost like RF interference on an AM radio). As an electronics tech, this tells me a cap has gone bad or is going bad. Am I looking at a new sound board to fix this? Is this a known issue with an easy fix?
Thanks,
Steve
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Can you post a photo of the mpu (main processor board) and also any audio amp boards that may be in the machine? We might see something that affects advice or suggestions.
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Here's all that I could get. Being a rookie at this, I'm hoping that the back plane is clear, I didn't want to remove it out of the machine. :-P
Since disconnecting the mechanical counters (via Jumper posted in another thread), the machine now prints a ticket for anything over what seems a $100 win. I've only noticed this in the Cleopatra Keno with $1 Denom, max bet of 8. Didn't do this prior to this jump. Something I miss in the previous thread? From what I've found on these boards, I purchased a Keychip 022. Was very confused between 22 and 40, should I have gotten the 40 from what you see in the pics?
Thanks!!
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I think I figured out the ticket printing automatically. Just set a HIGHER machine credit limit, but I've yet to hitting anything big since doing so. Also set HIGHER hand pay limit so I'm not burning through printer paper. :-)
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You have a version of Game King 5.0 installed, but I think you may have the wrong sound SIMM card for your software set. Are your PXL SIMMS C0001189s? If so, I think you should have DSS00334. I believe DSS00156 is also used for GK 5.0, but a different version which could explain why some sounds are OK, but others are incorrect.
And welcome to :nlg-logo: too. :wave:
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I've seen this same problem on GameKings once in awhile in the casinos while playing these games. A ding that just echo's too long. Interested to see what the problem is, hardware or software.
Also seen Caveman Keno go bad playing race car music from Super 8's, etc. That one must be a software mismatch.
You can run a sound test. Turn jackpot key for attendant menu, select Diagnostics, then Sound Test. The Digitized sounds can be scrolled through. Maybe that might reveal more issues.
Hopefully the experts can pin-point your problem. Looks like Tilt has it as possible wrong sound SIMM.
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You have a version of Game King 5.0 installed, but I think you may have the wrong sound SIMM card for your software set. Are your PXL SIMMS C0001189s? If so, I think you should have DSS00334. I believe DSS00156 is also used for GK 5.0, but a different version which could explain why some sounds are OK, but others are incorrect.
And welcome to :nlg-logo: too. :wave:
You are correct, the PXL SIMMS are C0001189s, but I've noticed that only '2 of 3' & '3 of 3' are installed. Scratching my head as to why '1 of 3' is nowhere to be found. After a close look, do the DIP switches on SIMM 2 & 3 need any certain setting? Or just leave them alone?
I assume I should just "Google" for the DSS00334 SIMM and hope for the best. I've inspected all the caps that I could see on the sound board and none look like they been overheated (swelling), so I'm not sure why I'm getting the humming.
And thank you for the Welcome! :cool_thumb_up:
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Your 1 of 3 should be your CGF simm.
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Your 1 of 3 should be your CGF simm.
It is under the sound board.
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Your 1 of 3 should be your CGF simm.
I'm guessing it's the one I see under the sound board? I haven't unscrewed that board from the mainboard.
UNIMAN - Just seen your post, thanks!
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You are correct, the PXL SIMMS are C0001189s, but I've noticed that only '2 of 3' & '3 of 3' are installed. Scratching my head as to why '1 of 3' is nowhere to be found. After a close look, do the DIP switches on SIMM 2 & 3 need any certain setting? Or just leave them alone?
I assume I should just "Google" for the DSS00334 SIMM and hope for the best. I've inspected all the caps that I could see on the sound board and none look like they been overheated (swelling), so I'm not sure why I'm getting the humming.
And thank you for the Welcome! :cool_thumb_up:
You could try contacting some of the slot vendors here on the NLG to see if they have or can get the sound simm you want. They are a pretty friendly group of folks. The home page has the vendor lists, below are a few of them. When you check their website keep in mind they don't always have everything listed, so it is good to contact them by email or phone:
http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/igtparts.html (http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/igtparts.html)
http://www.ohiogaming.com/igtreplacementparts.htm (http://www.ohiogaming.com/igtreplacementparts.htm)
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=39 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=39)
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=simm (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=simm)
and several others. Plus slot machine parts can often be found on ebay, and some of the NLG members sell parts there also.
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Here's all that I could get. Being a rookie at this, I'm hoping that the back plane is clear, I didn't want to remove it out of the machine. :-P
Since disconnecting the mechanical counters (via Jumper posted in another thread), the machine now prints a ticket for anything over what seems a $100 win. I've only noticed this in the Cleopatra Keno with $1 Denom, max bet of 8. Didn't do this prior to this jump. Something I miss in the previous thread? From what I've found on these boards, I purchased a Keychip 022. Was very confused between 22 and 40, should I have gotten the 40 from what you see in the pics?
Thanks!!
Good job on the photos, they look fine and the folks here will ask if they need any additional ones. I'm not familiar enough with your machine to give help on the KeyChip -022 vs -040 question but someone will probably answer that one.
Is the hum definitely coming from the speaker, and not from something else in the machine? If you lower the sound volume does the hum get lower?
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After a close look, do the DIP switches on SIMM 2 & 3 need any certain setting? Or just leave them alone?
I've inspected all the caps that I could see on the sound board and none look like they been overheated (swelling), so I'm not sure why I'm getting the humming.
The DIP switches should be left where they are. They control the memory addressing, if they were wrong your machine would not boot at all.
Some background hum/hiss is normal, but it should be at a low level.
Edited to add: KEY 22 will work fine for your game.
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First off, thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it greatly as I need it on this newly acquired game.
Second, I spoke to Ken at Ohio Gaming and both a Key Chip 22 and the new sound SIMM as well on their way (tracking says Thursday, woot!).
Lastly, it is a noticeable hiss/hum. Not super loud, but I can notice it between the switching of games. Maybe I'll look at a simple tank circuit just before the speakers to see if that eliminates it. To me, it also sounds like the main processor is located too close to the sound and causing some RF interference. You can hear the processor 'thinking' with audible clicks, hums, and whizzes in the background sound. :-D
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The buzz between switching games is normal. I even tinkered with the S2000 resistor mod and on a GK, it isn't worth it as it screws with other sounds.
If you want complete elimination of buzzing sounds, move to a 044 MPU/backplane and Game King 6.x.
Thanks,
Jason
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The buzz between switching games is normal. I even tinkered with the S2000 resistor mod and on a GK, it isn't worth it as it screws with other sounds.
If you want complete elimination of buzzing sounds, move to a 044 MPU/backplane and Game King 6.x.
The 044 board is my next upgrade and 6.2 (or 6.3) I believe is the one I want. Whichever one has "Lucky Bucks" Slots with the 4-Card Power and Cleopatra Keno. Of course, this is right after I get a TITO card installed. :-P
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The buzz between switching games is normal. I even tinkered with the S2000 resistor mod and on a GK, it isn't worth it as it screws with other sounds.
If you want complete elimination of buzzing sounds, move to a 044 MPU/backplane and Game King 6.x.
The 044 board is my next upgrade and 6.2 (or 6.3) I believe is the one I want. Whichever one has "Lucky Bucks" Slots with the 4-Card Power and Cleopatra Keno. Of course, this is right after I get a TITO card installed. :-P
You need 6.3 to have the 4-card versions of Power, Cleo, Caveman and Caveman Plus Keno. 6.2 is identical to 6.3 except it's missing those four keno games (I own both 6.2 and 6.3 flashboards). I have also experienced much better sound quality after upgrading from 3902 to 044.
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Got quick shipping from Ohio Gaming and got the new DSS00334 Sound SIMM today! Thanks, Ken.
Unfortunately, it didn't fix my sound issue. Gimme a sec, I've made a short video of Power Keno (broke) and Cleopatra Keno (good). I also made a short video with Jacks or Better which the sound is also broke. These games had bad sound before the new SIMM, so no change.
I appreciate the feedback and recommendation, Tilt. But it seems to be something else.
Keno Sounds:
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCvGARr74Z8#)
Poker Sounds:
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qDKh1vKsQo#)
Edited to embed the YouTube videos here.
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Yeah, there's something amiss. Gotta be related to the MPU, MMLB2, or GK 5.0 software set. Can't imagine it would be related to the amp or speakers since some of the sounds are playing correctly.
Thanks,
Jason
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If you look at the speakers/wiring, there aren't any resistors inline between the amp and the speakers right? Clean wiring all around?
Jason
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If you look at the speakers/wiring, there aren't any resistors inline between the amp and the speakers right? Clean wiring all around?
Jason
Just opened up the top glass and checked wiring. No resistors or foreign objects to be found. Never pulled the glass before and notice the inline amp (P/N: 76928000) hanging out up there. Wiring doesn't appear burnt or frayed. Connections appear to be tight.
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It would be nice if you had another game to throw in just to see if the similar sound anomalies existed. If you had access to another GK 5.0 set for testing, that would REALLY be nice.
For grins, have you ever cleared and reloaded your game? Last resort, but I would do it if it were me.
Jason
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Being the rookie that I am, is there a help file? Or just insert the Key 022 I just received and go with that to clear and reload? At this point, I'm not far into play and not worried if I need to reset the history.
Thanks,
Steve
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This looks helpful on using the Key 22:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=883.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=883.0)
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Got it. Here goes nuthin'. Check back with you in a little bit. *crossing fingers*
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Looks when I set it to the SAS Redemption by the instructions, I now have a "Bill Validator Comm Error". I'm guessing I have to start again. Not going to work on this much more tonight. I'm going to do the Key Chip again and if it works, I'll come back and give an update. Otherwise, I'll try this again tomorrow.
I appreciate the assistance, Jason.
Steve
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Ok, Bill Validator working. Still plays as advertised. Just the sound issue still, so I'm done for the night. I'll smack my forehead on it a little more tomorrow night. :banghead:
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The sound issue (hum?) may just be the way that model of mpu works since the common suggestion is to get the newer style mpu for improved sound. In a casino the average player might not even notice it with all the other loud and variable casino noises.
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I had 2 5.0 sets in two different MPUs, and neither of them sounded like that.
Jason
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Sorry it wasn't as simple as a mis-matched sound SIMM card. After listening to your youtube video it's clear that the MPU is addressing and playing the wrong sounds. Have you tried re-seating the MML2 sound card that the SIMM plugs into? Also verify that all the DIP switches on the sound SIMM are set to OFF. If I have time today I'll burn a software set that matches yours and see if the sounds are OK on it.
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My plan of attack for tonight was to pull cards, check/clean contacts, and reinstall. I was thinking like Jason that maybe the new sound SIMM needed to be "recognized" by doing a reset.
I'm wondering the same with you on the MPU is playing the wrong sound bite or attempting to play two at the same time and causing that reverb.
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Hopefully that will fix it.
I loaded a board up with:
M0001001
G0004857
C0001189
DSS00334
The sound was fine on the games you're having issues with, so it's not a software mismatch.
Check all the socketed chips on the MPU board too. Over time they sometimes they work themselves out a little. Just firmly push down on them, you'll be able to tell if it wasn't fully seated when you do. Do that with the CPU/FPGAs in the PLCC (square) sockets as well.
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Hopefully that will fix it.
I loaded a board up with:
M0001001
G0004857
C0001189
DSS00334
The sound was fine on the games you're having issues with, so it's not a software mismatch.
Check all the socketed chips on the MPU board too. Over time they sometimes they work themselves out a little. Just firmly push down on them, you'll be able to tell if it wasn't fully seated when you do. Do that with the CPU/FPGAs in the PLCC (square) sockets as well.
I appreciate you taking the time to test my configuration on a known good system. It gives me confidence that I may be able to fix this tonight.
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Ok, no joy. Pulled every chip/card I could (with the exception of the M0001001) chip since it's been out multiple times so I'm assuming that those contacts are clean. I tossed the thought of buying the next cheapest thing in line, the Multimedia Lite card, but then figured that the other games wouldn't work right if that card was broke. I'm guessing the inline amplifier in the top is good as well because I wouldn't have any sound if that was shot.
So, the only thing I could think it could be would be (a) corrupted game chip(s) trying to reference the wrong memory address in the sound SIMM since I have a known good SIMM from Ohio Gaming.
If anyone has a suggestion, please feel free to chime in. Otherwise I'll consider this a lost cause and start saving up for a 044 setup and mark this thread complete. I applaud the effort everyone has given me on this ordeal. :applause:
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One last thing, if and when I upgrade to the 044 config will I just need the MPU, Backplane, and Game Board? Is there anything else I would need to make the change over stress free (i.e. wire harness, installing a resistor somewhere, etc)? LOL
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One last thing, if and when I upgrade to the 044 config will I just need the MPU, Backplane, and Game Board? Is there anything else I would need to make the change over stress free (i.e. wire harness, installing a resistor somewhere, etc)? LOL
If you jump to 044, get GK 6.2 or 6.3 if you can get it. Also, get a 044 MPU that doesn't have Vrbata battery. They leak after time and can damage the board.
Thanks,
Jason
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So, the only thing I could think it could be would be (a) corrupted game chip(s) trying to reference the wrong memory address in the sound SIMM since I have a known good SIMM from Ohio Gaming.
If anyone has a suggestion, please feel free to chime in. Otherwise I'll consider this a lost cause and start saving up for a 044 setup and mark this thread complete. I applaud the effort everyone has given me on this ordeal. :applause:
Game chips have a CRC (Cyclic Redundency Check) installed. If any one bit is not right the machine shuts down, locks up. Can't be the chips.
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So much for the simple fixes. The two last items are the MPU or the sound board. The inline amp would not cause this problem. Personally I would lean towards the sound card because if there was an addressing issue on the MPU board it would cause other issues and the machine would probably not boot at all. The sound board is also cheaper to replace. It's up to you if you want to try to further isolate the problem. You will still have the low level hiss/hum associated with the 3902 MPU board though.
If you upgrade to a 044 board you will need the MPU/Tray, motherboard (backplane), and a legacy adapter board if you want to use your current software on the new MPU board. Or you can upgrade to GK 6.0+ which uses a programmed flash memory card. Here's a thread that shows some of the hardware.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=880.msg3908#msg3908 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=880.msg3908#msg3908)
It's possible that you may have to make some changes to your monitor settings due to the higher resolution of the 044 board after upgrading as well.
Jason brings up a good point with the Varta battery. Some 044 boards do have them, but they can be modified to work without them. The modification requires the removal of a component on the board (along with the battery of course), so if you purchase one from a vendor who offers a warranty they might not honor it if you modify it. Best to find one that doesn't have it to begin with if possible.
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Not to go too far off topic, but you might check this thread out concerning monitors when upgrading to 044:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8337.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8337.0)
I run a Wells Gardner LCD in mine and only had to press the auto-adjust button when I upgraded to 044. Ceronix may be a bit more complex per the copied link. Anyway, just wanted make sure you have a bit more info.
Jason
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Copy on the Varta battery, I've experienced those P.O.S. on some radar and telemetry systems I work on.
I've downloaded those info sheets in the previous post. Been a long day, so I'll pop the monitor tomorrow and verify which model I have. Been searching for the 044 setup and will email supplier about the battery and video connections before I order. I'll keep you gentlemen updated tomorrow what progresses.
As always, many thanks to you.
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I'll throw one more thing in the mix.
In your videos the game speed and payout speed is set at the maximum speed. Have you tried reducing the speed?
If you press the white button on the board, then Setup/Game Options/Speed Setup, then any game listed, you can set the max speed all games can go.
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Speed wasn't at the highest in the setup, just under. But when tested I selected the slowest a player can set and sounds were the same.
New problem now. I think I was sold a piece of crap and getting ready to take it on a little boat ride :CaptainHappy_worried: [size=78%]. Now the video is locked up and flashing. The first LED on the board is flashing RED, and the rest are yellow. So, I don't know.[/size]
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-UPDATE-
After letting it sit all night, powered it up, and it ran through it's cycles. When it came online, it finished paying the hit that I won when it failed last night. Video is normal and no red LEDs flashing at me. Unfortunately, sound still jacked up. Found a website that has the 044 board, backplane, and GK 6.2 all for what appears to be $350. From the website pic, it looks like it has the Varta battery, so I'll modify that when it comes in.
I have what appears to be the stock 19" monitor (P/N: KTL190UR-25-ST) in the machine. I'm going to shoot from the hip here and hope that there won't be too many growing pains during this upgrade and video works as advertised. I know there's a possibility that it won't, but my glass is half full. LOL
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When I was on the phone with Jim @ Bettor Slots, the video started flashing again with the far left LED flashing RED at me. I really hope the new 044 setup arrives soon. :hissyfit:
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A blinking red light on the MPU board is not a good thing as you've found out. For some reason your MPU isn't booting, or boots, and then fails to stay running as it seems to have done to you. Let's hope it's related to your sound issue and the MPU itself has problems instead of something else like a failing power supply.
Your monitor is a Kortek. You shouldn't have too much drama upgrading to a 044 with it. Probably just have to make some Horiz/Vertical position/size changes in the menus is all.
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So did you just recently buy this machine? If so, perhaps the vendor could replace the MPU for you.
Jason
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So did you just recently buy this machine? If so, perhaps the vendor could replace the MPU for you.
Jason
It is recent, but I've already purchased the 044 board, so I'm just gonna go with it. He lives about 100 miles away and don't want to make the trip. LOL
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You will need Key 28 as well if you bought a GK6 flash board with it.
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UPDATE: The new 044 board arrives tomorrow and GK6.2 as well. Jim @ Bettor Slots sent the new networked TITO board and Key 028 chip. So it looks like I'm going to be a busy person tomorrow night.
Other than the possible battery leaking issue (which I'll check when the new board arrives), is there anything else that anyone can think of that I may have a problem with that I'll have to modify to make this work? Or should this pretty much be a "plug-n-play" install?
I appreciate everyone's patience with this newbie. :Tongue_Out:
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Simple installation. Make sure the motherboard has the jumper installed, otherwise the game will load, but will be locked up. I learned that the hard way when I bought mine.
Anyway, enjoy!
Jason
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Jason is referring to this jumper. Without it you will get a "Door Open L" (Logic) error message.
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Thank you, gentlemen. I know this is a lengthy thread and I really didn't fix the original issue. But in the end I'm suspecting the 3902 board is bad (maybe a cracked solder run). After the new install I'll take it to work where I can inspect at it under a strong magnifier and do any needed repairs. I'll probably keep it just in case the 'new' one gives me problems (knocking on wood).
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New 044 Board, backplane, and 6.2 installed! Woot! Didn't want to boot the first time so I Key Chip'd it. In my haste and excitement I forgot to select U.S. currency, so I'm going to have to do it again. Not worried about that at all. Ordering a pizza then going to attack the TITO board install.
No hissing sound, no jack up sounds. Very happy now with a GK that has 6.2, 19" monitor, and soon ticket validation. Thanks again for the encouragement and indirectly convinced me not to take it to the dump. LOL
Going to mark this one "Resolved". :thank_you:
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:dancing_party: Congratulations! Glad to hear you were able to get the 044 upgrade installed and working. Keep those TITO install instructions handy when you key the machine so you can configure the TITO at the same . Also be careful handling the flash card, they're pretty static sensitive. Ground yourself to the machine before you remove/install the boot/keychip.
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:dancing_party: Congratulations! Glad to hear you were able to get the 044 upgrade installed and working. Keep those TITO install instructions handy when you key the machine so you can configure the TITO at the same . Also be careful handling the flash card, they're pretty static sensitive. Ground yourself to the machine before you remove/install the boot/keychip.
Thanks and copy all. BTW, how do I mark this resolved? LOL
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Is there a "Topic Solved" button at the bottom of the page? If not, I can do it for you.
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Congrats on the 044 install. :applause: The 6.2 has a great variety of games.
Glad to hear you stuck with it and got your machine working!
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I tried my hand a fixing ground noise. It worked but I think this isolator has too many windings as I have to turn up the sound in the preferences to full blast to get hear anything out of the machine. But, no more buzzing or ground noise!
(ground loop isolator and some RCA to wire connectors)