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NLG Classified ads and White Sheet => NLG Classified ads and White Sheet - PLEASE READ DESCRIPTION BEFORE POSTING! => Topic started by: jay on June 19, 2023, 11:50:49 AM
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I have a PE+ with a classic tube monitor.
Last week I went to turn the machine on and the screen remained blank.
You run your finger across it and you get no static or any other indication that it has power.
Going back into ancient history - or in my case highschool electronics class - where we fixed B&W TVs.
The common cause of this was a high voltage transistor on the side of the main board.
I shook the machine a few times, turned it off and on a couple of times and Wvolla the monitor sprung to life.
It wasn't like it struggled - it just popped on and we were best friends again.
A couple of days goes by and I turn it on again - same behavior. Nothing on the screen. No static.
I pulled the fuses - there are 3 of them and checked them with a multimeter as visually they are all good.
Put the fuses back in and it came on. I figured I had it beat.
I came home from a weekend away and thought I would turn it on and check it for good measure - same black screen.
I unscrewed fuse 1 (left most) and then screwed it back in, no change, I pulled the fuse out bounced it on the fuse holder spring and then put it back.
Worked like a champ.
I suspect that the fuse holder is either corroded or just shot.
Anyone know where I can get a compatible one ?
When the monitor appeared dead I was also contemplating a LCD drop in. Anyone still making these ? are they now old enough that I can get one in the used market ?
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Update: Turned the machine on, as my kids and father were coming over for a belated fathers day gathering.
Same black screen, reseating the fuse didn't work this time.
I blasted in some contact cleaner spray into the socket and the screw top and it came alive.
Kids went home, I turned it off for 5 min and on and it came back.
I will try tomorrow night again.
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Jay,
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I also have a PE+ that the monitor just stopped working and not sure if a replacement is available or not. Or maybe something to substitute. Just wondering...
John
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No one ever got back to me on this.
I sprayed a ton of contact cleaner into the fuse holder. Each time the machine started without the monitor. Power off of course.
It finally became a reliable start.
Lately however when it starts - the monitor comes on with the picture scrolling like an old black and white TV. It then stabilizes but the payable is at the bottom the top part of the screen a bit messed up. A few min later it rectifies itself. I think the high voltage transistor is starting to go. Its been 40 years since I took TV repair in high school and I am sure I remember nothing useful.
If it helps any the fuse in question was the second from the left. Pull it out, sand the tip a bit, put it in, repeat.
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Thanks for the info. I pulled all the fuses and checked, cleaned and reset them, but nothing . Pretty sure my monitor died. Fortunately I found a replacement source that uses LCD's instead of the CRT's but the darn thing is not cheap - but not sure what else to do.
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What have you found ?
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It's a direct replacement, drop in monitor with board, made by Ceronix and supplied by Casinotech in TX. It's 15" instead of 14" but supposedly fits right in and from looking inside there's plenty of room for it. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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Just looked that up.
$511 - ouch.
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I haven't been able to find anything else, ANYWHERE. And I don't want to lose the use of the machine. Tough call.
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Could be a problem on the crt board. Bad solder joint, bad connection to the tube.
What monitor is in it?
There should be a label on the chassis when you pull the monitor out. Oh, that’s another option, it could be the connector on the back of the monitor.
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Here is the same part from Ceronix direct.
https://www.ceronix.com/product-category/lcd-monitors/igt/igt-2/players-edge-pe/15-players-edge-upright/ (https://www.ceronix.com/product-category/lcd-monitors/igt/igt-2/players-edge-pe/15-players-edge-upright/)
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and if you thought that expensive......
https://monitech.com/products/14-ceronix-1493-lcd-upgrade/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwYSwBhDcARIsAOyL0fjkJlpdv5-PmtJ3xS-JjjA5RYkeOR98pvXAX4CYWolXs0eWy-Pqcm0aAhrnEALw_wcB
Just over $1100
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Pretty sure it's the monitor. It was slowly fading during play and it was replaced once before; it came out of an older game unit and was on borrowed time to begin with.
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Here is a repair place
Slightly more than a replacement LCD
https://www.radwell.ca/en-CA/Buy/CERONIX/CERONIX/1493 (https://www.radwell.ca/en-CA/Buy/CERONIX/CERONIX/1493)
at $528
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Most of the time the CRT monitors can be repaired for far less than replacing the monitor. You do not need to send the entire tube to find out. K-Lar can check the board and repair. Several other members on NLG can try your board in their machine to verify.
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Is that the board that sits directly on the top left of the monitor that you're referring to? Just pull out the monitor and separate the board and then it can be chceked to see if it's the problem?
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Correct.
But you must watch a video or read how to discharge the anode cap that attaches to the tube. Depending on the brand / era, it may or may not automatically discharge. Removing without discharge can potentially deliver a severe shock.
Don’t be scared, but be aware.
Once the tube is discharged you can safely remove the board, in most instances the board is held in with two screws. A few wire connectors will need to be disconnected too.
You can safely remove the entire monitor assembly and send us a picture. We can guide you from there.
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Thanks for the great info! Would you mind directing me to the video? Appreciate all the help.
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I can actually make a video and post to YouTube for you.
Did you ever pull the monitor out and tell us what it is?
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I actually found a video on youtube that shows discharging the cap so I've got that under control now. I have not pulled the monitor. I think I'm going to go ahead and just put an LCD in and be done with it. The machine was never put in commercial operation and always used in a private environment so it's in pristine condition that's why I'm going to just bite the bullet and upgrade the monitor.
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That will work as long as the video problem really is the monitor.
Good luck and let us know what you find out.
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Thanks...and I will.
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I actually found a video on youtube that shows discharging the cap so I've got that under control now. I have not pulled the monitor. I think I'm going to go ahead and just put an LCD in and be done with it. The machine was never put in commercial operation and always used in a private environment so it's in pristine condition that's why I'm going to just bite the bullet and upgrade the monitor.
You can send the monitor chassis to K-Lar they can repair the board.
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Appreciate the info, thanks.
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UPDATE:
So I received the new LCD and at first was skeptical that it was a direct replacement for that monster of a CRT. But it slid right in, locked into place and fit fine. I plugged in the pigtail adapter that came with it to the small harness in the chassis and turned on the power. It self adjusts for a bit but would only give me a white screen with an out of service message. Once I hit the serf test button, everything was back to normal and I had a beautiful picture.
Yep, it was a bit more expensive than I wanted to spend, but it sure looks nice and has nice adjustments for contrast and color.
I took pictures of the CRT if anyone wants me to post them, or even the new LCD
Thanks everyone for your help and info.
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Glad you got it working. Pics are always fun to look at!
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Well, I was going to post pictures, but when I click on the attachments option below, nothing happens. Sorry about that.