New Life Games LLC
General NLG Chat => Before and After Restoration Pics => Topic started by: Stayouttadabunker on November 03, 2020, 12:55:06 AM
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I had an old S+ cabinet sitting around gathering dust. :guilty:
I wasn't doing anything with it but I had a bunch of S2000 parts laying around gathering dust too... :duh: :guilty: :guilty:
One rainy day :gloomy: with not much to do, a sleepy :zzzz: Sunday really :sleep:
an idea popped into my head! :idea_2:
I really couldn't find :sherlock: any instructional manual on how to convert an S+ into an S2000 :arrowthruhead:
so I asked around for some S2000 metal guts, more parts and began to convert my S+ cabinet into an S2000. :arrowthruhead:
Can it be done? :Scratch-Head: Hell ya! :rotfl:
Here's how I'm doing it...>>>
First, I completely gut out the S+ cabinet... right down to bare bones...leaving only the door on but that too is stripped of all parts too.(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action-media;sa=media;in=1098)
Click on any photo to enlarge....>>.
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Then I carefully remove the left and backside side laminate because I'm going to have self tapping screws going thru the cabinet walls.
I can glue back on the original laminate later on or go buy some new sheets to put on later? :scratch-head_2: I don't know yet.
Now, I locate the inner panel of the MPU "cage" against the left wall to see what I need to remove to allow it to lay flush against the cabinet wall.
I marked out a couple of screws and metal tie-offs that need to be cut out with a hand grinder with a good new metal cutting disk.
This part is dangerous so it was important to wear the proper safety equipment such as goggles, leather gloves and a face shield.
Ears plugs are optional because of the noise but I'm half deaf anyways so the noise didn't bother me.
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Then I placed the inner cage panel back against the back wall and into the floor groove I cut out with the grinding wheel.
(The outer panel has a tab that is inserted into this "groove."}
At this point, I drilled a single small self-tapping screw to secure the inner panel into the cabinet.
Remember, the back laminate is peeled off for now - to allow me to grind of the excess length of the screws sticking out the back of the cabinet.
I will actually take that single screw back out after grinding it flush with the back of the cabinet,
apply some RED threadlock to the threads and reinstall.
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Now, place the rear protective heat plastic onto the backplane studs and secure the backplane board with 7 screws.
I like to start with the top center screw loosely, put in the other 6 screws, then hand tighten with a Philips screwdriver.
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Next move is to attach the outer panel of the "cage" and secure that with a single screw on the bottom hole.
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Now is a good time to slide in an MPU tray to keep out anything that might fall into there such as screws, nuts or washers. :yes:
The MPU cage is slightly loose at this point because the reel shelf isn't yet attached to it which will make the whole unit more stable and stiff.
Tomorrow we will install a reel tray to be perfectly aligned up with the center payline of a reel glass. :cool_thumb_up:
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okay...we need to do a couple of things before we can add an S2000 reel shelf to this cabinet.
First :Professor: we have to install the WBA cage to the inside right wall of the cabinet.
These WBA cages have that single bolt hole that attaches to the shelf - which will help in assisting us later as an "extra hand".
5 nuts secures it to the cabinet standoffs using a 7mm socket with an extension.
There's 3 vertical holes and 2 horizontal lugs under the cage itself.
You can remove the little cherry switch on this cage on the bottom right...it's not needed for home use.
A small 5mm socket takes care of the pair of nuts holding it, if you want or......
You can take your electric hand grinder and remove it right off the cage if you wish. :rotfl:
We're never :no: going to use that little PITA cashbox door switch again ever! :Tongue_Out:
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I must add...the picture above should be the next step.... :duh:
The bottom guide rail plate in the cash box cage needs to come off so the WBA cash boxes can fit in.
To remove, I secured the cage in a vise, and drilled out the four spot welds with a 13/64" high speed drill bit...
then you can do the step in the above Reply... :cool_thumb_up:
Wear goggles when doing any drilling or cutting or grinding!
You only have ONE set of eyes!
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okay...once you have the cage attached to the wall, you need to put in the transport unit of the WBA.
You sort of drop it in near the top of the cage and slip it onto two small metal lugs on the floor of the cage.
There are two small screws that need to go into the rear of the cage to secure the transport guide.
For this, I recommend a long magnetic screwdriver!
Click on photo to enlarge to see how far in the back those two little suckers need to go in!...>>>
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Now you can slide in the WBA and it's respective metal cash box to see how it all fits. :sherlock:
Later on when we install the harnesses, we will slide back out the WBA and install the beau plug wires & housing the bill acceptor connects to.
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In order for an S2000 reel shelf to fit correctly onto the tab on top of the WBA cage, yo have to notch out a tiny bit of the underside of the shelf.
What I did was place the shelf into the machine and lined up the tab hole with the shelf hole.
Underneath it, I drew a line with a magic marker then removed the shelf and put it into a vise.
Using a hand grinder with a sharp bi-metal disc, I cut out a slot for the tab to fit into.
Below are before and after pics of the tab cut-out I had to do...>>>
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Install the newly modified reel shelf onto the WBA cage tab with a single screw!
This will give you a helping hand as we make small adjustments to securing each side of the reel shelf to the cabinet walls.
Any photo posted in this S+2S2k Conversion Project can easily be viewed larger by clicking on it...>>>
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Stick some reel strips onto the reel baskets and install onto the reel shelf.
It doesn't matter whether you're working with a 3, 4, or 5 reel shelf...what IS important is that the reel glass is the correct one for the reels that you're using.
All the attachment points on the reel shelves are the same in an S2000 when installing into an S+ cabinet.
Anyways, install a single line reel glass and secure with the reel glass fluorescent light holder bracket.
Close the door and see if the center of the strip symbols line up PERFECTLY with the center Payline.
If they do, then it's time to secure the reel shelf to the walls of the cabinet with a couple of sheet metal screws! :cool_thumb_up:
All we need to do is make sure the rims of the reel baskets and strips do not touch the back top of the reel glass display panel.
3/32" to 3/16" of an inch is a sufficient amount of clearance to avoid reel [41, 42, 43] errors.
Tomorrow we'll work on installing the power supply, power distribution box, backlight reel controller boards.
I'll also have to cut out a couple of rectangular holes for the topbox wiring harnesses - specifically the Molex housing mounting trays.
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After checking the alignment of the reel strips to the reel glass Payline, it's time to fasten the reel shelf securely.
There are little differences :sherlock: in the S+ and S2000 holes.
That where we'll drill a couple of self tapping screws to set the shelf. :yes:
Also, the door latch nut hits ever so slightly against the WBA cash cage and needs a little bevel for easier door closure.
Ran a grinder on the nut/bolt at a 45° degree angle and the door closes perfectly. :cool_thumb_up:
3 photos :Take_a_Photo: below show:
Left side shelf fastener placement.
Right side fastener placement above the WBA.
The newly beveled door latch nut.
haha...I just noticed in the 2nd photo where I dropped a small screw earlier...it's laying on top of the WBA! :rotfl:
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Looking good so far.....
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Thanks Jay :wave: ....just taking my time...wanna do a nice job! :yes:
I forgot to mention that I used a medium blue threadlock to insure none of the self tapping screws work their way loose.
I could use a tap & die kit and fasten with IGT screws but it isn't necessary.
I'm not planning to remove these reel trays anytime soon... :rotfl:
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Just when you do your 5 reel conversion.
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Just when you do your 5 reel conversion.
:24: :rotfl: I'll find out when that happens I guess! haha
Anyways, back to the Project at hand...lol
First, remove the reels from the shelf and place aside for now....you need some room to work.
Installing the Power Supply bracket is a piece of cake really.
Basically it goes on the back wall behind the reels about an inch above the reel shelf.
The right side of the power supply box is located about the center of the 2nd and 3rd reel...it's not rocket science!
Three self tapping screws drilled into the back wall after leveling off the bracket secures it fine...two on top, one in the middle bottom.
Two photos below show me drilling in last screw and the the PWR Supply hung onto the rail back in there...>>>
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Okay...the next part is kinda fun.
I'm trying to utilize original S+ cabinet lugs and attachment points/standoffs as much as possible. :yes:
This is the solution I've found that works securing a power Distribution panel box to the back wall of an S+. :cool_thumb_up:
There's a zip tie attachment standoff on the right above the power cord hole that will allow me to slip in the right tab of the PWR Dist. panel box.
Just below the S2000 backplane board is a lug that allows me to either install the box tab onto that lug but it would lay slightly crooked.
So my idea :idea_2: is to just locate the box tab right on top of the existing lug and thread a nut with a 9/32" socket to hold it.
The only way it would ever come off is if the entire machine was upside down...maybe :Tongue_Out:
okay, I'm going eat something...I'm hungry! :Eating_Cookie: :flip_pancake:
Anyways, here's some pictures showing you how it ends up.
Click on photos below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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okay, decided to install an S2000 inner door panel.
There are some minor differences.
The door has mounting lugs for the VFD display circuit board and a slightly different attachment tab on the bottom left side of the panel.
The S+'s door panel has a tab the is flat against the door's bottom but the S2000's inner door panel has a tab that is vertical.
I had to make an bracket to grab that inner door panel tab.
I cut a 2" in length of sheet metal angle, drilled two holes where it would mount to the door's bottom where one of the lugs is really a blot that comes thru holding the clear plastic that is underneath the door....the other is the lug that holds the S+ inner door panel tab.
I secured the angle bracket to the door bottom and installed the S2000 door panel with two bolts on the door hinge side.
Then I clamped together my new angle to the tab and drilled a self tapping screw right thru both pieces.
All that was left to do was tighten the 2 door screws and this is the result!
The 1st photo is the installed S2000 inner door panel with the main door open.
The 2nd picture is the attached angle looking from the inside.The 3rd photo is what the angle looks like attached while viewing from the belly glass side...>>>
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On the S2000 inner door panels, the ballasts are very different from the S+ ballasts.
Although the wiring to the belly glass fluorescent lamp is pretty much the same, the Molex housing is single row 4-pin.
I removed the S+ 4-pin Molex with a special pin removal tool (11030044E), then re-installed the pins into a flat four Molex that fits these F15T8 ballasts.
I then re-wrapped the 4 wires with and threw a T8 fluorescent lamp into the holder.
Then I needed to secure the lamp holder behind the belly glass with a single screw on the right hand side tab that was from the S+.
Here are some photos showing the 4-wired configuration for the belly light....>>>
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Could you not use the S+ ballast and florescent ? and just wire it back ....
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Could you not use the S+ ballast and florescent ? and just wire it back ....
hmm :scratch-head_3: ...maybe I'll try that next time?....haha
Might be easier!
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S Plus uses 120VAC into the ballast. S2000 24VDC. Be careful!
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S Plus uses 120VAC into the ballast. S2000 24VDC. Be careful!
:arrowthruhead: :arrowthruhead: Oops! Thanks for the heads up RB! :hail: :propeller: That would of been a smokey room!!! :rotfl:
Guess I gotta tap into a 24VDC line and ( Reply #20 picture) a 24VDC ballast.....I never even looked at the rating of these ballasts!!! :duh:
Wait! I'm using a S2000 power supply, power distribution box, harnesses, and S2k ballasts?
I AM using 24VDC....haha
Are you messing with my head??!?!?! :fryingpan: :fryingpan: :24: :rotfl:
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Could you not use the S+ ballast and florescent ? and just wire it back ....
Not messing with you. It was in response to Jay's post. :Scratch-Head:
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Yes...I'm only joking RB...I'll go beat up Jay then....haha :rotfl: jk
Went to Home Depot looking for some Door Latch rubbers...only found this!
It works...haha...yellow ones? Oh well...>>>
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Okay...this was a real hard modification.
You need to know how to use the correct size rivets and know how to remove rivets without destroying everything.
The problem I ran into is that the doors of the S+ and S2000 were changed whereas there's no vertical lip to accommodate the 3 mounting holes on an S2000 VFD display - the S+ doors used 3 holes punched out downwards into the door frames right behind the reel glass.
So, I had to drill out the rivets in an S+ display to use the metal mount under the display panel and swap it onto an S2000 VFD display.
I drilled exact holes into the plastic housing of the VFD displayand re-riveted back the S+ mount onto it.
The results were awesome!
Everything lines up perfectly with the reel glass in place exactly ON the Payline and all the S2K digital LEDs in their respective places.
Basically, it attaches just like an S+ reel glass display panel now...>>>
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okay...Here's the top of an S+ after the topbox was removed by taking out 4 screws going to the top-box's corners.
There was a sad looking piece of laminate glued to the top of the main cabinet which I easily peeled off and discarded.
Now we have to make two rectangular cutouts in the metal to install the Molex Housing holder brackets.
Again, it's somewhat dangerous working with a grinder w/ a metal cutting wheel.
Or you can drill 1/4" holes in each corner of where the brackets are going to be and cut out the metal holes with a jigsaw.
Dress appropriately for this kind of modification!
This means safety glasses, a full face shield, leather gloves and a leather welding coat/jacket with long sleeves.
I measured the locations for the Molex brackets...it's not rocket science.
The holes just need to be slightly larger than the brackets to drop in easily.
After cutting out the holes, drop in the brackets the way I have it pictured below.
You can now secure each bracket with one screw but I left them out because now I have to re-mount the topbox, mark where these new holes are and cut out new holes in the topbox floor.
Once that's done, you throw the brackets back in, lay the topbox over them and secure the topbox with four screws.
After this, it's time to install all the lights and wiring harnesses!
Click on any photo to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Had to change a couple of Molex housings to adapt to the S2000 24 volt ballasts.
Installed some buttons onto the S+ deck and all the wiring harnesses.
I opted to install the 1st S2000 game I ever bought...a 3cm Double Diamond with the SS Double Jackpot Haywire chips and Multimedia lite DSV 42.
Of course, this game isn't the same without backlit reels so I put the supporting hardware and harnesses in for those.
I also set up a TITO system in it as well for fun!
I didn't tidy up all the wiring yet...ran out zip ties...I'll get to all that later!
Below is link to a short video of my 1st conversion of an S+ into an S2000! ( I started doing another one while waiting for parts to come in! :duh: :rotfl: )
For some reason, my cheap camera wouldn't let me record everything.
Oh well, you get the idea!...>>>https://youtu.be/leAvNFh_PhQ (http://youtu.be/leAvNFh_PhQ)
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:yourock:
That's awesome! It's looks like an S plus, but definitely SPEAKS like an S2000!
I'm so confused though... will the machine demand "rights" since it now "identifies" itself as S2000??? :Tongue_Out:
Great job. :yes:
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Well the cool thing too is that the metal plate on the cabinet shows date of manufacturing as 1981!
That means in little more than a month from now, the machine is 40 years old! :cool_thumb_up: :rotfl: :Tongue_Out:
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Hey Bunker I find it easier to just change out the data plates and magically my S2000s are almost 40 also.
Great job looks good, must have had a lot of time on your hands.
Rich
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Hey Bunker I find it easier to just change out the data plates and magically my S2000s are almost 40 also.
Great job looks good, must have had a lot of time on your hands.
Rich
Shhhh! Can't do that ! :Tongue_Out:
Time? What time is it? Time to play with my new S2k's!! :dancing_party: :cheerleader: :happy_and_cheerful_birthday: