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Author Topic: Old look gone now exciting game play with new pay structure + extras  (Read 3783 times)

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Offline zinda

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Well after much experimentation, hard work, luck money, time and mastering a paint shop program I have finally completed my new creation. Using the bally export model 783 for the basis of the build, I rewired the entire payout structure, retooled the reel stop plates, made new reel tapes, drew up new plans and recorded all wiring to make repairs a snap in the future, I have removed the lackluster theme of the Matador from this machine forever. Today at 4:20am on this day 4/20/2017 the "POT SLOT 420" was born :dancing_2: So much time was spent getting things just right, lining up each symbol on each reel tape so they land dead center, getting the colors to be exactly how they should while trying to make a fluorescent colored reel design and make the images look like they were printed using neon glowing inks was by far the most challenging part of this build. Since there are no Fluorescent inks available for any home printers especially the few that can print out a photo quality picture on a 8.5" x 26.65" sheet of high quality photo paper, (I luckily have a Canon MP620 printer) I was destine to figure out how to develop the new reel tapes that will be lighted by a 12" blacklight bulb. I must have printed 100 reel tapes all had various issues before I was able ti finally get a set printed that were perfect. The right colors, the right symbols in the right spots, no smudges, images not lining up with the precolored areas. Then figuring out which markers would work best while being printed over and still look correct without flaking off or overpowering the top layer of ink . Many feet of paper and many used ink cartridges followed as I moved along. Then making symbols and getting colors right while finding out how to pre color the areas I needed and make them line up perfectly was to be learned through a paint shop program, many hours spent making tiny changes, getting images the correct sizes, changing images for better ones. it just seemed to never end.

I have learned so much about how to do this I could write a book. It would need to be a book to be sure that others would not have to spend the time and money I did while perfecting this type of printing.If anybody wants me to write up a complete tutorial I believe I can do it with precise accuracy that will make the task quite a bit easier to figure out. Many of my set backs were due to grabbing the wrong marker, same color same manufacturer, different look under the blacklight. So there's a ton of tiny issues that need to be addressed as you start into the process. I finally organized everything and labeled each item to make sure I did each step with any errors. 1 touch of the tip in the wrong spot and you're starting over

I'll explain it all if need be, I found myself wanting to kick myself on a hourly basis  After it was all finally done this is what I ended up with.

Offline FiveTimesHey

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now you just need to rig it to dispense cigarettes  :Tongue_Out:

Offline Sunrise Side

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Yes I am very interested in your printing processes . I need some original strips reprinted for S2000's . Can I get a copy of your info please? Thank You Tim

Offline zinda

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Re: Old look gone now exciting game play with new pay structure + extras
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2017, 01:25:56 AM »
I have now updated this machine once again, I went with a new theme and all new artwork but did not work with the Fluorescent colors this time. It went from a 3 month long project with a stack of paper that all had some minor imperfections due to the extremely difficult process needed to end up with UV reactive colors in place and looking correct. Having to perform 3 passes through the printer to get the fluorescent color images printed proved to be a real test of both me and my printer, simply getting the back and front to line up correctly when printing the upper glass is difficult by it's self.

But without having to deal with all the multi-passes and using a marker to hand fill in the colors only to see the printer started just slightly before or after the original starting point was certainly frustrating, without this i was able to knock out an entire set of prints and install them in a weekend!

I also cut some new tempered glass right out of an old scanner bed, that glass is super tough and scratch resistant, I noticed that once my edge lighting was turned on it showed numerous imperfections on the glass surface, even though the glass was out of a picture frame that appeared to be brand new and in perfect condition it showed a great number of imperfections that caught the light and were illuminated very brightly. I found that every piece of glass i tried all had the same effect, all glass from pictures was significantly flawed. Whether it was a manufacturers process from when the glass made and was formed into the glass structure or it was simply surface scratches that were so slight they could not be seen is not known. But I started looking into something that was harder and less likely to have imperfections, of course scanner glass must undergo a much more strict process when making it, not only keeping the thickness even but also keeping any imperfections from forming that would weakening the structure and cause the light to reflect into the images.

I also made sure to place the diodes along the machine cut edge to evenly disperse the light passing through it without any reflections from an edge that may have some facets formed by the cut edges and that will not have uniform distribution throughout the glass. Even 10 year old scanner glass was still free from any imperfections or any residue which may also be built up on picture glass. I cleaned each piece with razor blade, then acetone, then windex and still found most pieces were not perfectly clear, most had a permanent haze pitted onto the surface, as well as imperfections in the glass structure making them poor candidates for edge lighting. this is something that I thought was important to anyone who is considering starting any edge lighting projects.

So I ended up going with a FAMILY GUY THEME this time and spent some time finding frames from episodes of the show as well as some developed character drawings as well as some modified drawings and developed text to imitate the look. By using only regular printer colors and sticking with a single pass through the printer it made this a very simple task, with the basics already figured out and knowing the tricks to get the prints where i needed them to be on the sheets I found this to be quite simple, the only issue i came across was the fact that i used frames that were sized to take up a specific amount of area that represented an average sized space of a symbol on the reels. By doing this I ran into the issue that Bally did not space out their stop plate slots to represent even spacing on the reels. I did already know about this fact from the 1st set of reel tapes I printed.

So I did the same as last time and I made up a set of recorded center places on some  blank paper by loading them into the reels and strung a string across the face of the reels at the same position as the center line would be . Then I stated at a common place on each real (close to the notch in the edges where the tapes can be fed in) make sure to mark the symbols and reel numbers on them and then mark each symbol on the center line after you record the true center onto the paper. Then I  just turned each reel one step and used a pencil to draw a line onto paper that lined up with the string. Make sure the string is pulled tight and is secured in place and cannot be easily moved, this can be done on a bench top with the reels out of the cabinet, just test that your string height is correct by marking one and putting the assembly back into the machine to see if your lined up. Also make sure to tape your paper down and pull it tight to get the correct placement, loose fitting or shifting paper can end up throwing the entire layout off considerably.

Then I scanned those pieces into a paint program and reassembled them since the scanners bed is only 14" that requires 2 or 3 scans to get them copied. Then make sure your resolution matches what you have set in your paint program meaning you will need to create a starting sheet to transfer those pieces onto and you will need to resize those pieces to match to keep the images the same size as the originals. I set my scanner to the highest setting (which was only 300dpi) then I resized them to 450dpi and made my starter sheet as 8.25" wide by 27" high, copied and pasted each section by overlapping them a few inches and making the upper image slightly transparent to see the lower for perfect placement.

I found that there was 1 area on each real that was not going to allow me to place an image exactly on center since they have squeezed some slots closer together to avoid the grooves from being to close to each other and weakening the tips of the reel plates which will eventually bend the metal back and will close the grooves gap after time causing the arm to jam up and not allow it to reach the bottom of the groove. I had to work with each image a little bit and made a few that were thinner in size and fudge them slightly to minimize that amount each was going to be off the center line. This will not be an issue on newer models, I have found that the size and depth of the grooves is not as dramatic on most other models. This machine has 9 different symbols and 20 spaces on each reel so the plates look like this. I will post pictures after I resize them for uploading
« Last Edit: August 28, 2017, 04:59:01 AM by zinda »

Offline zinda

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Re: Old look gone now exciting game play with new pay structure + extras
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2017, 05:36:39 AM »
 The 2nd image shows the look when the SIRPRIZE is active and HOLD is available and HELD, the green edge lighting is lit and the lights behind the flying Lois lights red, the cloud by Quagmire lights and says "GIGADY... ALL RIGHT!"  The 3rd image shows the normal view with no holds available and normal game play. the 4th image shows a closer look at the right side when SirPrize is active.

The last image shows the latest reworked upper glass in it's new final stage.m It needed a few tweaks and another realignment with the reverse image for the backside. I was slightly off on my first attempt with the HELD placement on 1 square, you will notice the corners have some black mark at the edges, that is there to make sure that the front and back images get started on the sheet in the same place. Since the reverse image would normally have no boarders and only has printer areas in the center and bottom areas, the printer will just start the image at a point where the margin is set. To make sure they will line up those corner marks need to show the printer where the boarder edge is to be configured. This is super important when you are precoloring areas when using Fluorescent pens.

You will need to use a paint program to find your edges and delete the solid colors, then reduce the edge lines so they are just barely visible by making a layer and adjusting the visibility to suit your needs. You can also eliminate the colors by changing the entire image to black and white or grey scale to ensure the edges will be shown consistently after reducing visibility yellows and lighter colors will not be sown very clearly and makes it hard to floo the edges, But by leaving colored lines there's less chance of coloring the area incorrectly, So there's reasons for both  ways.

I;m now considering making this fluorescent as well but I'm going to try to make my own fluorescent inks. I'm thinking I can extract color from markers and mix it with ink and refil some carts with just enough to get 1 good print out of them. If I use water to get the dye from the markers I will have to reduce it by evaporating the water before mixing it, If I use a solvent I might destroy the print head unless I can Evaporate the solvent without drying the dye up in the process. I'm also considering a vise to squeeze the filter part from the inside of the marker and see if I can get a few drops of dye to drip out. I think I'll need to find some markers that will have a tank type holding system for the dye delivery to be able to get enough to make enough ink. I will post results when I'm done with 1 color as a trial. This will greatly reduce the time and errors involved with the process, unless you have access to the dye it is very expensive to buy in almost any raw form even just in a bottle without any cartridge is around $100 to get all colors to do photo prints. that will only be less than an once of ink total. There are some jars of fluorescent colored "inks" but they are more like paints and will not flow through a print head without ruining it. Real Dye is available through printing ink suppliers and they are way expensive. They are meant for presses not inkjet printers.

 

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