New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: Bluefish11 on February 12, 2017, 10:02:25 PM
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Hi,
I'm totally new to any of this.
So I got two units from a friend, both not working.
Can anyone give me a starting point?
Here's a few photos.
Thank you.
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They are both Bally S5500. May need the battery changed on the board and then do a clear.
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Ok, I'll try that!
I'm a total newbie here.
I haven't checked back here in awhile, but I'll change the battery and post the results.
Thank you
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Attached is the clear procedure.
The power supply on the wall behind the hopper could also be bad.
There is a sticky on NLG about how to repair one.
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The Diamond Line most likely needs a power supply
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Ok, wow
It seems I have my work cut out for me.
Thank you I'll get back with some results.
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Ok, I found the battery.
My volt meter says it's dead.
Could anyone tell me where to get a new battery? And how do i replace it?
The other machine is missing the board completely, is it possible to buy another one?
Thank you
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You can order the new battery online from various places and replace it yourself if you are ok with soldering. If not, many cities have a place that sells batteries, like a Batteries Plus store or similar. They usually have a tech there that will replace the battery for you. The battery is a 3.6 volt lithium battery, that should be written on the side of the battery.
I can't tell from your photo, if the battery is not soldered to the board and is held in place by battery clips or a battery holder then it is easy to replace and you should be able to do it yourself.
The batteries come with pigtails or with solder tabs for the soldering type. The non-solder type just have the regular battery contacts on the end - flat on negative end and a nipple on the positive end.
If you want to post a request to buy a mpu board for the machine that is missing one we can do it here. Or you can look on the NLG home page at the supporting vendors (slot machine parts sellers) and contact them. And there's always ebay and other places online to find a Bally S5500 mpu board. The replacement mpu board will most likely not have the game software chips installed. You will need to order and install them onto the mpu board. To get the correct chips you need to know the machine model (Bally S5500) and the name of the game or the SMI number for the chips. Does your friend know what happened to the old mpu board? If it is bad the software chips could still be good, or at least you could get the info off the chip labels.
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I got a battery from Batteries Plus for $4. Walked in with the board and they had exactly what I needed right there. Had pigtails attached, ready to solder to board.
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Thanks again for your help.
I would like to purchase a from you, I can't get in touch with my friend anymore, he told me the one with the board worked but it only took the old 20s. I bought a battery 10.00 bucks at battery plus, they even tac welded the leads on the battery. They didn't solder to the board, I dropped it off at a computer shop, they will solder the battery for me.
I'm not sure what game was installed in this unit, but here's the model number.
I wouldn't mind if it had another game as long as I can get it to work.
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That will be very good if the one machine (Diamond Line?) works ok after replacing the dead battery. The bill acceptor only taking old $20's is due to its internal software being out of date. You may be able to fix that, either by loading newer software into the bill acceptor, or by replacing it with a more recent bill acceptor. Post some photos of the bill acceptor that show what model it is and we can tell you more about updating it. If it is working ok it should always accept $1 bills, so try them first and make sure they get accepted all the time.
Please re-read your last post, parts of it are not clear. I don't have a Bally mpu for sale and I didn't see anyone else in this thread say they had one. Is the machine in the photo that you posted the one that needs the mpu, or is it the machine that already has an mpu? Either way I don't recognize the name of the game but I'm not a Bally S5500 expert.
The problem with just buying a S5500 mpu and putting some other game chips on it is that the reel strips and payout glass will not match the game software. So you need to identify the game that was in the machine (glass artwork and reel strips) and get the correct software to match that game. Unless you want to change the strips & glass too.
I recommend you concentrate on getting just one of the machines working at this point. It will be less confusing for you since this is all new. Then you can use the working one to help figure out what is wrong with the other machine, since they are the same model.
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Just in case, and I am not recommending it at this point, I sell S5500 Pro Slot boards on the KLAR website.
I have had 3 customers that bought S5500 machines and did not realize it came with no board or software.
Pictures of the machine and the reels allowed me to direct them to the proper software so they could put it the board they purchase from KLAR.
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Looks like his photo might be of a Blazing 7's, 3 coin multiplier machine. But that belly glass is throwing me a curve. Reminds me of some kind of satanic logo or something out of Hades.
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It's 7's burning in hell !!
Maybe the game should be called sinful 7's ??
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It's 7's burning in hell !!
Maybe the game should be called sinful 7's ??
Ha! as long as you can provide the game eproms for it he'll be fine with it. Might be good for him to use the mpu from the other machine to make sure this one only needs an mpu. There might be other stuff that is bad too, so his total parts cost might change his mind about repairs, I'm not sure and don't want to assume.
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Only two main components go bad on a S5500, the MPU and the power supply.
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If Sunrise Side is correct then the Diamond Line machine might need a power supply, so the power supply from this Blazing 7's machine could be removed to fix the Diamond Line. Are replacement power supplies available and cost something reasonable?
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There is a sticky in the S5500 section that explains how to repair a Bally silver power supply.
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I didnt notice the MPU was missing from the Diamond line, so the power supply may be fine.
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His 2nd photo is blurry but I think the Diamond Line is the machine with the mpu and he is getting the battery on it replaced. It is the Blazing 7's that does not have an mpu.
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Wow thanks again for everyones input.
So I got my board back, trying to do a clear but I'm not getting any display on the door.
The red light is flashing by the rest button.
And some clicking noise on the back of the door, it's like a part of the bill acceptor. I took a picture.
I tried the clear steps several times holding the buttons in.
The jumper wes on both prongs when I looked, and there's another one the same way is that right?
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Your power supply is probably bad.
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Very common problem with those Bally 5500/6000 machines. It’s the silver color metal box mounted back behind the hopper.
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Ok,
Can I purchase a power supply form anyone here?
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There is a sticky at NLG under S5500 on how to repair yours for under $20.
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Ok , well I changed the power supply it didn't work so I put the old one back and tried to clear and it worked!!
The lights on the buttons are flashing and the top light is flashing.
I haven't tried it yet but it has 83 f on the win paid can anyone tell me what that means?
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Bluefish11 - the last message you posted (the one just above this one) was posted in some other unrelated discussion thread, not this one. I've moved it here for you to your discussion thread.
Please be careful, this is your discussion thread (below) where you should post messages about problems your Bally S5500 has:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14697.msg78805#msg78805 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14697.msg78805#msg78805)
The Bally error message/code "83F" means the mpu board cmos ram (what Bally calls SafeRam) needs to be cleared. Your machine does this after the battery goes dead and you replace it. You will need to do a SafeRam Clear process.
EDIT - these instructions do not apply to this machine
The SafeRam Clear instructions are attached below. I think there is another easier way to do a Clear, it involves having some newer chips on your mpu board that are called "Leave-In Mains" chips. With these you don't have to remove and replace chips every time you need to do a Clear ram procedure. If your mpu board already has these 'Leave-In" mains chips then you can do the easier Clear ram procedure. You can post a photo of your mpu board and maybe someone here can tell you more about that.
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Ok ,
Sorry for the post in the wrong thread.
Thank you the 83 f information.
I appreciate everyone's help.
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That's ok, it takes a little time to get familiar with the site. We can usually fix boo-boo's like that, but it's better if you post in the right place to begin with.
Your Diamond Line machine may be really close to working, just need to do the Clear ram process. When the battery died that let the cmos ram data get corrupted and turn into junk. Now that the battery is good the machine needs that cmos ram to be initialized (formatted) so the mpu can use it. When the machine powers up one of the things it checks is if the cmos ram is ok or is it corrupted.
Since this Diamond Line machine woke-up after you removed and then reinstalled the original power supply there may have been a flaky connection. If the other power supply you tried was from the Blazing 7's machine and it didn't work in this machine then that power supply might be bad.
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The 6000 needs Safe RAM clear chips, or "easy clear" as they are called because they stay with the board.
You have a S5500 which requires a jumper be set to clear. see attached.
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Thanks - that's what he needs to do then.
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I did another clear, I don't think I held the buttons on the board long enough. So this time I got to the 50 code for the door opened. Now I have a 5.4. in the win paid window and 0 for the coin in and 0 for the credit. Is it ready to play?
Can anyone tell me what the 5.4. in the win paid window mean?
Thank you
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50 is door open, the game is ready to play when the door is closed.
54 is bill validator door open on the side of the machine or bill stacker is not present or someone tried to bypass those two switches and botched the job.
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Your right it's been tampered with!
Now what?
Can I buy another bill acceptor?
Can I use this one?
(edit to remove duplicate photo)
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The red connectors looks like someone removed something on the bill acceptor.
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Those red things are splices. Someone may have replaced a connector or repaired the wiring harness because it was damaged. They used splices to connect the wires together. You can see that the same color wire goes into each end of the splice. Inside the splice the wires are connected together, the red covering is plastic so that it insulates the wires, don't want them touching metal chassis ground or other wires. So that not be the cause of the error message you are getting.
The slot machine has a place to store paper money. It is usually below or to the side of the bill acceptor and it will be in a sturdy metal compartment for security reasons. That cash storage compartment or cash can will have one or two switches that tell the machine if the cash storage compartment has been opened or removed. The security switches often cause nuisance problems for home owners so they bypass them. To do this they remove the 2 wires from the security switch and twist the wires together. You may need to find your cash storage box security switches and see how they look.
Does the bill validator power up and you can hear its motor initializing when the machine is turned on? What happens when you insert a bill? Does it pull it in and then a few seconds later spits it back out, or does it not even pull the bill in?
The bill validator is a DBV-145. That's an older model, it won't work with most bills we use now because they have been redesigned over the past several years. The exception to this is the $1 bill. Inside the DBV-145 is an eprom that has the software for it to recognize paper money. The DBV-145 also has some dipswitches, they can be set to disable individual bill denominations from getting accepted. If the DBV-145 seems to power up and sounds like it is working but it does not accept a $1 bill it may be because it has been disabled by the dipswitch setting. Could be something to check.
The top of the DBV-145 opens so you can clean the optic sensors inside. You just move that bracket handle out of the way and lift the top of the DBV-145 upward, it is hinged on one side.
If you want to upgrade to a better bill validator the lowest cost would be to remove the DBV-145 and install a DBV-200. There are different versions of DBV depending on what machine they go into, so you would need a Bally version of DBV-200. Or if you decide that this DBV-145 is not working you can get another DBV-145 that has been verified working, but for the price difference I'd get a DBV-200.
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I can provide a DBV 200 IDO 44/45 with the "latest" software that will take the new $20 bills.
Did close and lock the side BV door, was there a bill stacker in that hole also?
The 54 code could indicate the security switches have not been bypassed.
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I would open the door on the handle side of the cabinet and see if the machine still has the bill stacker, or is it empty? If it’s empty then did someone by pass the switches. More pictures would be helpful..
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I'm not sure what a bill stacker looks like but I think it's missing.
The bill acceptor motor turns but not when I put a bill in,
The green light on it doesn't come on. It says inset bill face up when lit green.
(edit to brighten photo so we can see details better)
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Well hell I just realized I don't have an key for this unit.
Can I go to a locksmith and get a key or will I need him to stop by to open this door?
What's this other key switch? There's wires connected to the back of it.
(edit to brighten your photo. The photos you are posting are too dark.
Please turn on your camera flash, or every light in the room).
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You might be able to get the nut off the locks latch with the front door open. It should be a 7/16†wrench.
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Locksmith for sure.
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You can grind it off. Its just chrome plated soft brass.
Turn the slot on its side, lock up and
grind the top of the lock till the lock
pins come out then you can turn the
lock and open the door.
You can even do it with a hand file!
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Do I need to get in that box to fix my error?
What's the top lock for?
It has 2 wires connected to it
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That’s the reset your looking at. The book locks lower. If you are able to remove the bill head, then you should be able to just lift out the transport. At that point you will have access to the side door
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The lock with the two wires is the hand
pay- jackpot rest switch.
If the switch that is giving you the error is in
the cash can area then you will need to get it
open or bypass the switch at the MPU.
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The upper key thingy is a switch, not a lock. When you turn it with a key the 2 wires connected to it are connected together. That signals the mpu board that you are doing a "jackpot reset". It's mainly used in the casino when a player hits a large jackpot and the machine stops and freezes play where it is, waiting for a casino person to come over to do a handpay. After paying the player in person the casino person inserts the key, turns it momentarily and resets the machine so it can go back to normal play.
The jackpot reset key can also be used to do certain things in the setup menu and the bookkeeping (financial stats) menus. If you don't have the key for the jackpot reset keyswitch you can get one, they are almost always the "2341" key, available lots of places. It looks like this:
http://www.spininc.com/01465-0 (http://www.spininc.com/01465-0)
The cash security switches your machine has are probably located above/under that cash compartment, or nearby. The cash compartment door lock probably has a cam attached (short piece of metal) that bumps against a switch mounted near the lock and that activates it. That way the machine knows if the cash compartment door is unlocked.
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There is another switch located inside on the floor of the bill cavity to sense when the bill stacker is sitting inside properly.
It can be defeated by removing the stacker and duct taping a stiff piece of cardboard into the slot and holding the switch down in the on position.
You can also pull the COM and N/O wires off of the switch and strip the ends and wire nut them together.
They are hard to get to because the switch is located on the inside wall right above the handle box.
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Man I tell what, you would never know there was this much to these machines by looking at them.
I managed to get the bill acceptor opened from the inside, I pushed down on the spring loaded bottom on the compartment, and now I'm getting the 54 plus a 73 code.
I'm not even sure what I'm doing in the bill compartment, what door is open that I'm getting the error?
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The door key has a metal tang on it that rotates into a slot at the front, inside, edge of the cavity.
That metal tang hits a switch that closes the switch contacts.
It can also be defeated permanently by jumper-ing the wires that go to the COM and N/O terminals of the switch.
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Man I tell what, you would never know there was this much to these machines by looking at them.
I managed to get the bill acceptor opened from the inside, I pushed down on the spring loaded bottom on the compartment, and now I'm getting the 54 plus a 73 code.
I'm not even sure what I'm doing in the bill compartment, what door is open that I'm getting the error?
Slot machines are built to a much higher security standard than arcade or other toy machines. The casino has to know when the cash storage compartment is opened and closed, that's where the money is kept and the casino doesn't trust the player or the casino employees regarding it. The states that license the casino also want this security because they get a portion of the money that the machine brings in.
The small door for the cash compartment that is on the side of the machine has a lock. Look above where the lock turns when the door is closed to see if there is a security switch there.
You are probably going to need to post photos to help us see what you are seeing that you have questions about. Otherwise it gets much harder for us to give help.
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Ok, I found the switch it was against the wall side on top of the bill acceptor.
So I tripped it and wedged a piece of cardboard underneath it, closed the door and Bingo!! No more codes!!
Can I play now?
Can I use quarters?
I guess I have to fill it with money first, can I just put quarters in hopper?
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That's good, now you see how the security switches operate and that they need to be "closed" so no error code condition appears. As was said before, you can remove the 2 wires that go to that security switch and touch or twist the ends of the wires together permanently, that will reliably keep that security switch from causing a nuisance error if your cardboard slips and falls out. This is what is called "bypassing" the security switch. The best way to do this is to disconnect the 2 wires from the security switch. Then cut off the connectors at the ends of the 2 wires, remove about 1/2 inch of insulation and twist the wires together. Then insulate the bare wires with a plastic wire nut, you can get them at any hardware store, I think even WalMart has them. This will make the machine think that the security switch is always closed, so no error codes. But if you think your cardboard wedged in there will stay in place then that's ok for now.
Yes, since the label on the front of the machine says "25 cents" then it should be setup for quarters. So insert a quarter and tell us what happens. If it gets accepted and you see a "1" in the credit display then it's working. Press the Bet One button, then the Spin button and the reels should spin. But if the quarter comes back to you in the front coin tray then there is more to do.
On the inside of the main door there is a device called the "coin acceptor" or "coin comparitor". It's job is to check the coin that you insert into the coin slot to see if that coin is the correct type. Post a photo of the inside of the door showing this coin acceptor. The coin acceptor is usually the style that has to have an example coin installed into it. This example coin is called the "sample" coin.
The machine will work even if the hopper is empty. You can insert a quarter, get a credit, press the buttons and the reels will spin. But if you get a winning spin and the machine is setup to payout wins immediately then you will get a hopper error code because it is empty.
Putting a bunch of quarters into the coin hopper would be the way it's done in the casino. But you don't have to do that, you can just put enough in there that it will be able to pay you on small wins. Then as you play you will insert more quarters and they will go to the hopper. On many spins you won't win anything, so the quarters will accumulate in the coin hopper. It will be sort of like a piggy-bank, you'll have a bunch of quarters in there, you can open the machine any time and get them out.
But doing it that way you'll have a problem when you get a large winning spin and the hopper doesn't have enough quarters to pay you. So a better way is to setup the machine for credit play. When you get a winning spin instead of paying you the coins it will put the winning amount onto the "credit meter". The machine will keep track of your winnings. That way the hopper isn't operating all the time to payout your wins, and you won't have to keep a large number of coins in the hopper. Hopefully the machine is already setup for credit play, but if not I recommend you check into that, get the machine setup for credit play.
What about the bill validator? Try inserting a $1 bill and see what happens. Pay attention to how you insert the $1 bill. Since your machine has a DBV-145 bill acceptor the bill has to be inserted face up, and it has to be with the top of Washington's head to the right. On newer bill validators you can insert the bill any way you want to, but on the older DBV-145 it has to be done this way.
The machine can be played by inserting quarters and many people do it that way. But having a working bill acceptor makes it easier to add several playing credits to the machine so you can play without having to insert coins every time.
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More to do, I tried a quarter and it came right out.
I put a sample coin in the coin acceptor but the quarter comes right back out.
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ok. I don't see a quarter in the photo of the coin comparitor, did you get it installed properly?
When you open the door with machine power on does the mpu metal mounting tray have any lites on or off? Is there a button for "pseudo coin"? If so try pressing it to see if you get a credit on the machine. Post a clear photo of the mpu tray with the machine powered on.
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You need to install a quarter in the comparitor.. I have a yellow circle on the pic of where the quarter goes. You need to slide the piece to the right, see orange arrow. Then install a quarter in between the two other orange arrows on the pic.. It must lay flat..
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Example of sample coin installed in photo below.
Also, on the coin comparitor turn the sensitivity adjustment screw all the way counter-clockwise (to the left). This will help to eliminate nuisance coin rejections. This may not be the problem you are having now but it is something good to do anyway to eliminate future problems when the machine is working ok. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver.
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Yes the pseudo coin button gives me a coin in and I get to pull the arm!
No lights on the board.
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OK! I'm not a Bally expert but if you can get a credit by pressing the pseudo coin button and then get the reels to spin by pressing SPIN button or pulling the arm then I'm pretty sure that means most of the machine is working, that there is something not right about the "coin in" stuff. This means the coin compartitor and the coin optic board right below the coin comparitor.
Show us a photo of the inside of the door, be sure to have plenty of light so we can see things clearly.
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Does the yellow LED on the coin in optic board light up? If no then I believe they are bad. That should be on. Also I see that there is a $1.00 marked on the metal plate in front on the coin optics. I wonder if you might have a $1.00 coin guide? If your running quarters you need a quarter coin guide to get the coin over the optics. I’m trying to remember if the coin o comparitor light up on a 5500 with the door open.
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He has another similar S5500 machine (Blazing 7's), so might be able to use parts from it to troubleshoot this machine.
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The yellow LED on the optic board should light up but the light on the comparator doesn't unless the door is closed.
Try pressing the other pseudo coin button, the one on the lower left of the coin optic board and see if you get a free play.
Also the toggle switch on the front of the tray must be in the up position or the coin comparator will not work.
You can re-size the $1 entry by gluing a piece of plastic of he right width inside the plastic track.
Coincidentally the coin rocker arm at the top of the comparator can be removed, the screw nub can be cut off and the remaining straight piece is just the right width to resize the track for a quarter when glued inside the track.
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.....Also the toggle switch on the front of the tray must be in the up position or the coin comparator will not work......
If that's the switch labeled "Coin Mech" on the mpu tray I can't tell in the photo if it is up or down. I wonder why Bally would put a kill switch for the coin comparitor?
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Early TITO.
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I have the coin in how far do I slide the cover over the quarter?
The yellow light is on.
Is the coin mech switch supposed to still be up?
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The sliding cover for the sample coin should slide back and forth, to the right and to the left. It is spring loaded, so when you slide it to the right it will want to slide back to the left on its own. If it doesn't feel like there is a spring tension on it then remove the coin comparitor from the machine, turn it over and see if the spring is missing or disconnected. Looks like the round sticker with instructions is missing from the sensor on your coin comparitor.
The coin comparitor will not work unless the quarter is installed correctly. See the photos and instructions in earlier posts of this discussion.
Don't overlook what was mentioned earlier about the coin optic boards. There is a sizing spacer in between the coin optic boards, if it is the spacer for a $1 coin then you will have problems with a quarter because the spacer is too large. Your coin optic boards have writing that says "$1.00" so the coin spacer may be the wrong size for quarters.
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Yes it's spring loaded, but when it covers the coin completely the coins get stuck, if I slide it back slightly the coins drop straight through, but no credits.
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The sliding cover should not completely cover the quarter. If it does you don't have the quarter installed correctly. When the quarter is installed with its left edge in the coin holder groove then the sliding cover will only move to the left until it bumps against the right edge of the quarter and stops. This will be when it about halfway covers the quarter.
Can't tell from the photo. But the left edge of the quarter should fit into a groove on the left side of the coin holder. Do not put the quarter all the way down into the round opening. When the quarter is properly installed the sliding cover will cover about half of it. And the sliding cover will be very close to the surface of the quarter.
See example below showing the sliding cover as far left as it will go with a quarter sample coin installed. If your sliding cover is going farther to the left than this photo then you don't have the quarter installed correctly.
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.....The yellow light is on.
Is the coin mech switch supposed to still be up?
The coin optic board Yellow light ON is good.
Leave the coin mech switch up forever. The only reason to put it down is to disable use of coins on the machine.
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You do not have the sample coin inserted correctly and in the right spot! It sits right behind the copper disk that you see on the front.. Your sample coin is all the way behind the conparitor. The left edge of the coin should be in contact with the plastic notch on the left. Look at the arrows I posted.
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Here’s a picture of where it goes...
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Is it possible that the cover from a quarter
comparitor has been put on a dollar comparitor?
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Is it possible that the cover from a quarter
comparitor has been put on a dollar comparitor?
If you enlarger the pic in replay #66 you can see that the quarters not installed in the correct spot. It’s behind the sliding head, not in the slot on the head.
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Ok I put the coin in the correct spot, but I still have the coins fall straight through,
I found the pseudo coin switch on the optic board it does give me a coin in.
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I think I got it!!!
The coin acceptor was misaligned with the slot!
Can I play now?
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If it accepts your coins and they fall into the hopper and you can spin the reels by the button or handle then YES your good to go. :cool_thumb_up: :applause:
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Yes it works!!
I think it's paying out in credits like you mentioned!
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Sounds like it is working, time will tell if there are any other issues with it, hopefully not. Remember what you have learned. With credits on the credit meter you can play the machine by pressing the Bet 1 or the Bet Max button, no need to insert coins when you have credits.
If you have a bunch of credits on the machine be careful about pressing the "cashout" button. The hopper will try to pay out quarters for all of those credits. If there are not enough quarters in the hopper then the machine will give an error and you will have to put more quarters into the hopper, then close the door and let the hopper continue the payout.
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Look good from here👍.. Next test is to try your hopper, say on a 10 to 20 coin pay out. Those games your winning do go to credit. Great job. :applause:
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Thanks again everyone!
I'm excited to be able to use this machine.
I was wondering if I press the cash out button what would happen.
How much cash does the Hopper hold?
The bill acceptor takes the bill in but spits it back out.
IllI have to try to get that to work.
Also now I feel better about starting to work on the other unit the 3 blazing 7 s.
Thanks for the knowledge I will remember what iveI learned.
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from what i know most hoppers hold an average of $400-$500
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from what i know most hoppers hold an average of $400-$500
Which would be 1600 to 2000 quarters. My guess is most home owners only partly fill the hopper, or they use tokens in place of quarters to cut down on losses from friends & family taking some from the machine.
To test your hopper put some quarters in it, maybe 25 or more. With the door open and machine powered on press & release the "TEST" button on your mpu tray until you see the front display show "04 d". This is the TEST step for the hopper test. The hopper should run and payout exactly 10 coins. Press the "Change" button to repeat the test. Close the door or press the "Reset" button to exit the test menu system. See image with hopper test instructions below.
Since your Diamond Line machine is working let's end this discussion topic, it is getting kinda long. If you have other questions about it, or about the other machine, please start a new topic.
To do that just go to the Bally S5500 area (link below) and then click on the blue button near the main menu buttons that says "New Topic" to start a new discussion. Thank you.
Bally Reel Games, including S5500 machines:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=75.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=75.0)
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Ok thank you.