New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Phan000 on September 26, 2022, 06:40:39 AM
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Picked up a “new” machine yesterday. Previous owner said it used to work, but would throw the house breaker switch, so they got rid of it.
I did a fairly thorough cleaning this morning. Machine will not step up. Coin in does not release handle.
If I manually step up, and manually release handle, the machine does not reset after a spin.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
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Check the end of stroke switch on the payout step up unit.
Could be out of adjustment or the carriage / contacts wiper is not returning
all the way to close the switch.
Also the coin relay switch stack, bottom left reels mechanism might need attention.
Check the coin in switch trip wire, could be bent thus dragging on the coin mechanism.
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873-S will be very close to the 873-C. Paperwork for the -C is on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/
the coin switch should cause the coin relay to trip. If you don't get that far, handle release and line unit step-up won't work.
if line unit isn't resetting/stepping and the coin relay is not tripping on coin in, then it's one of:
1] coin switch bad
2] plug connections for the coin switch wires bad
3] handle release SPDT (three blade) switch with wire 23-1 on center blade not connecting to wire 21-1 when the handle release relay is reset
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Looking at the things David mentioned earlier- I saw the coin relay stack was indeed out of adjustment. The whole stack was bent forward a bit.
The machine does take coins and step up now, though the handle is sluggish & slow to raise. . I cleaned & lubed the tube as well as the other parts on the right side of the machine. Still slow to return to forward resting position. Does the spring on that side become weak over time?
The machine only resets when I push the handle fully vertical after a spin.
It is not paying on any wins. Hopper has power. Does the washing machine toss of coins every once in a while.
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The vent hole centered on the back of the cylinder could be plugged.
The machine might still have the rubber cup inside the air cylinder.
It could be decomposed into a sticky tar. Thus causing the handle to return slowly.
Note, when removing the piston out of the cylinder.
The connecting parts could fall out of the piston and scatter. Best to photograph and or make note.
Machines will operate without the rubber cup.
Regarding no payout, first try cleaning the payout relay contacts top left rear of hopper.
Inspect for broken / disconnect wires
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The machine only resets when I push the handle fully vertical after a spin.
the coin relay should trip and the line unit reset without much else working.
the game has a dashpot switch, which is on the right side of the reel mech and is operated by the U-shaped bracket. The dashpot switch must be closed when the handle is up/locked.
deal with a gunked air cylinder first, then check the dashpot switch.
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Compared the mechanism to one of my other machines and discovered that it was missing this spring. :duh:
Handle moves well now, springs back to resting.
Still no pay on wins however.
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that's the "new improvements" after november 1974 setup. Earlier machines had a torsion spring behind the right 1/2 gear.
retrofitting older machines to the new setup was possible, but a few pieces may be needed. Details are in the 2600 manual. If you already had the post the right end of the new spring hooks onto, the lazy way was unhook the torsion spring from the 1/2 gear peg and leave it on the shaft, then add the new spring.
can ya post a pic of the entire front of the game showing the payouts and reels (or email highest possible resolution pic to slotpics@cdyn.com)
for payout issues, it's easiest to isolate the problem to the reels, the hopper or something upstream of the reels.
if you set up a win that pays 20 on the center line, you can pull the reels and use an ohmeter to verify almost zero ohms between wire 90 and wire 36-1 on the reel plug. If that's good, the problem is not on the reel mech.
you can clip a voltmeter onto wire 90 on the reel 2 contact plate and other meter lead onto wire 70 on any handy coil, stick the mech back in and see if you have 50VAC on wire 90 when the spin is done. If you do, then the upstream stuff is ok and your issue is likely on the hopper/payout counter unit or a plug connection.
if no pays work on any lines, then a problem with the payout relay or an upstream issue with a handle release switch or coin relay switch is more likely, assuming the reel wipers are aligned correctly.
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The photo I posted earlier was from my other machine. Not positive this one needed that spring. I cleaned the dash pot tube again and pulled off the rubber end. Works well now.
Though the handle is resting upright, I have to give it a nudge back to get release to engage. Seems like something sticky in the release area, though I cleaned it.
(https://i.imgur.com/mLpobZg.jpg)
The machine is not paying on any lines. I cleaned up the payout relay & inspected the wires. Nothing seems out of ordinary. Two wires had a small stripped portion, but I cut both and repaired properly.
(https://i.imgur.com/HyGbQn5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1Y4766T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ytlPfZf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PitGblT.jpg)
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Both issues are definitely on the reel mechanism.
I swapped the mech with a different machine and both the handle release and the no-pay issue disappeared.
On the mech for the non-working machine, if I jumper the 20/40 pay relay, it does trigger a win.
Handle release won’t trigger unless a light thump is delivered to the coin mech.
I do see the coin relay does open when coin I triggered.
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It appears the right side contacts are out of adjustment.
Should be closed and open when un-latched first coin.
Also, the horizontal B switch accumulates lots of crime.
Might need a little more cleaning.
Probably checking for continuity would be the first step.
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Adjusting that coin switch helped a lot. Machine is paying wins now.
Still have to fix the handle release issue.
Works fine with other mechanism.
Coin in releases the coin relay, but mechanism still needs a Fonzie bump
To get the handle release to engage and step up.
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Possibly the handle release switch stack needs attention or the latch mechanism it self is gummed up.
Run the machine with the door open then give it the old Fonzerelli. Hey!
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Turns out the dash pot switch was just a tiny bit out of adjustment.
The Fonzie bump allowed it to engage the switch and release the handle.
Switch is working now, and The Fonze has bid farewell.
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Great,
There’s a good chance I played that machine if that is the original belly glass.
Sam Boyd’s SAM’S TOWN was good place to play.
Had friends that lived near by, so it was convenient.
Plus it was on the Boulder highway away from down town traffic.
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the torsion spring (green arrow) is there ... if it's not broken and is hooked on both ends correctly, you shouldn't need the spring you added. It doesn't hurt to have both, but it's kinda hiding a problem elsewhere if both springs are needed.
the dashpot switch blades are bending a lot (red arrow). Not a big deal, but you don't want them touching the fat metal bar. There's fish paper insulation in there, but it can wear/break.
either twist the bracket so the switch blades bend less or bend the fat bar away so the blades can't touch it. An adjustable wrench is an easy way to twist the bracket.
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Will adjust dasphpot. Wonder if it is the original glass. Not the best color combo.
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There is a very intermittent handle issue.
Every 50 plays or so, it gets stuck down. Pushing the dash pot plunger in completes the spin and releases the handle.
I’ve had similar issues before, but not this intermittently.
When the handle does jam, a sharp pull at the bottom will finish spin.
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handle stuck down but reels didn't kick?
if so, the L-shaped "stop bracket" at the bottom/back or the right side of the reel mech needs to be loosened and nudged towards the back a little.
the stop bracket pivots the trip pawl, and the pawl sliding off the edge of the black trip lever is what allows the reels to kick and handle to go back up.
other possibility is too much free play on the shaft pushing the trip lever. The inner nut (leftmost nut on the shaft next to the spring) should be adjusted so there's around 1/16" of movement before the trip arm starts moving as the handle is pulled down.
you want the game to kick just before the handle bottoms ... if you have to bottom the handle to get a kick, an adjust is needed.