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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Simple Sam on November 09, 2022, 04:18:17 PM
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I'm having a problem with my model 935, Reel Dice. The original problem is that it is not accepting coins; they are just dropping through. While fiddling with the machine, I managed to get the two gears in the partially forward position and I don't know how to get them back to the resting position. I have the reel mech out of the machine but if I put it back in, I can line up the handle but can't get it to release.
I need to be able to manually spin the reels and get them to reset. See the attached picture.
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Manually rotate the right gear (with the pin that the arm engages) counter clockwise. I will only move in one direction and the spring will be fighting against you but it can be done.
I seem to remember a posting about using a long handled screwdriver as a fulcrum against the center nut but there isn't a long a surface for a good purchase.
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The silver arm above the springs, push the arm forward in the the plastic tube and it will kick off the reels reseting the mech.
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Possibly the J bar that slides into the air cylinder is stuck.
It appears to be not quite at the end of the stroke.
Possibly it is gummed up from age and sitting for a long time.
Try pushing it in a little bit farther to trip the reels.
Or gently pull it out if you think it is stuck.
If this keeps happening, the L shape trip lever stop bracket might need to be adjusted.
Located bottom right of the reels chassis.
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I'm not having any success. I've tried moving the gears but they are too tight. I tried moving the bar that goes into the cylinder (in and out) but no luck. I removed the reels thinking they might be the hangups. It seems like there is either a locking mechanism or a one way ratchet that I'm just not advancing.
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something looks wrong around the stop bracket area.
the pawl the green arrow is pointing at below should be on the edge of the black lever and the lever should be rotated. Is you pawl wedged behind the black lever?
the second pic shows what it should look like when the pawl releases. The black lever is rotating counter-clockwise onto the rubber pad so it's blurred in the pic and you can't really see it. The main shaft should be rotating back to reset slowed by clock on the other side of the mech.
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Photos of these areas could help.
A well lighted photo of the right rear of the mechanism.
Also a couple of photos of the clock side mechanism / links.
And the back of the reels mechanism, particularly the slot index arms. As to see the state of the reels.
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Here's some more photos. I don't think there's anything wrong with the mechanism, just that I got it in an awkward position and can't get it to reset. I was fiddling with it because the coins were just dropping through. Before this issue, it worked fine although it did take more effort to pull the slot handle than my other Bally EMs.
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it worked fine although it did take more effort to pull the slot handle than my other Bally EMs.
That makes me wonder... I'd suggest removing the e-clip from the air cylinder arm just to see if it's buggered and stopping the works The cup on that has been known to deteriorate, fall apart and stop the rod from moving.
Out of curiosity, can you cycle your other machine manually?
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Looking at the last picture, the wippers on the pay boards should be all the way to the rear as the bottom linkage is about to kick off. Yet the wippers are forward as if they have all ready kicked off to lock in to the reel slots. Some thing is off on the linkage.
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The L shaped stop seems to be out of adjustment.
In most cases it is flush to the back of the case.
Mark where it is now, then remove it.
Possibly the mechanism will be able to reset.
Once reset, install the L stop flush and adjust from this point.
Note, with the L stop to far forward the gears travel to far before the reels trip.
Thus causing the mechanism to bind.
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the reels have kicked and the spin is complete.
the only thing wrong is the position of the stuff on the right side of the reel mech ... except the black pieces - those are ok.
I'd bet off-track is right in post 8 ... the air cylinder is stopping the gears and silver trip lever from rotating back to reset.
for a video, see https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Windup_and_Kick.m4v
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Would it make sense to remove the pin circled in green? I should be able to move the air cylinder (or determine that it is binding/damaged).
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Removing the pin would narrow down the possibilities.
As mentioned before.
The cylinder piston could be stuck into the end of the cylinder.
As it has traveled farther than usual.
Also check the vent hole at the end of the cylinder as to be clear of debris.
Slightly twisting the J bar could possibly give an indication on the status on the piston.
Use caution when working on assemblies under pressure.
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Success! I removed the pin and the gears were now free to reset. I tried to push the piston out by pulling/pushing on the J bar with no luck. A little persuasion with a hammer got it out and you can see what the piston looks like. Now I just need to get a new seal and remove and replace the old one. Thanks for all the help!
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The machine will run fine without the rubber cup on the piston.
In some situations I’ve used !5/16s brake cylinder cup as a replacement.
Only problem is cutting a 1/2 inch hole in the center of the cup
and using a lubricant that won’t deteriorate
the rubber.
Adjust the L stop trip bracket for proper function.
In most cases it is aligned to the back of the case.
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The deteriorated rubber comes off fairly easily with a sharp knife while soaking it in WD-40 or you'll start getting it everywhere.
I never replaced the cups in mine and instead put a very heavy grease in its place.
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Right, the black goo for some reason is very hard to remove from anything it gets on.
Soak it in some sort of thinner and wear cloves while cleaning.