New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: EdwardS on December 21, 2023, 07:13:19 AM
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I have an IGT
S2000 S-Plus Top Dollar. The circuit board that mates with the mother board suffered a lot of current and 2 resistors were burned. Upon inspection, it appears this has happened before. I was successful in getting a replacement board. I also got a relacement power supply (transformer). I am ready to re-assemble but I have reservations. I don't want the new replacement board to act as a fuse.
Is this a known problem with this model. Does anyone have the schematics for this model? Any assistance would be appreciated.
The fuses were all OK. From the attached pics, you can see the serious amount of current.
Model#9641990R - Manufactured around 1998
Moderator note: updated machine model
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Is this a water stain on the back wall?
Water, steel, and electronics don't mix well.
It may be the cause of it burning out the first time.
They may of replaced them with the wrong resistors.
I've never seen these burn out like that.
Schematics for the motherboard are available in the NLG File System.
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No, not a water stain. It appears to be discoloration from the heat where those resistors got hot/burned. I'm baffled why no fuses popped with that kind of current.
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A closeup of how badly the CCA board was buned.
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That's not an S2000 first of all.
You have a S+ machine that may be going on 30 years old....lol
Things are getting fairly aged in that cabinet.
IDK why a power fuse didn't burn out....did you check them? :scratch-head_2:
They should be of the "Quick-blow" type...with the thin wire filament enclosed inside the glass tubes...not the wide, metal or wire-wrapped ceramic automotive fuses.
If the wrong type of fuses or ones with too much amperage-rating are in there, that's why they cooked.
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Yes. I just checked them and they are the correct fuses / amperage sizes. F1-6A, F2-8A and F3-6A.
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Hard to tell from the photo resolution, but it looks like R3 is the component that overheated and may have damaged R4 next to it. R3 is for the denomination lamp and typically does that when someone attempts to upgrade the incandescent lamp to a LED lamp that isn't compatible with the lamp holder. It causes a direct short across the lamp supply voltage and R3 overheats and burns up. Check and make sure the denomination lamp is the correct one.
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I did that. It is an LED replacement.
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do the research on this site, there are pictures of the two types of sockets. because of the wrap around wire on the bulb, it touches both sides of the metal inside the socket,thus a direct short, the other socket has each side isolated from each other.
Jim
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Here's a link to the old board with the details on the problem. You need to fix that first or you'll burn up R3 on the new motherboard too.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8337.msg73090#msg73090 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8337.msg73090#msg73090)
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Thank you. I only replaced the F15T8/CW flourcent bulb with an LED with the same model#. This is the 18" bulb that lights the bottom portion "1st coin winner/2nd coin bonus". I did not replace any of the individual socket(s)/bulbs that appear in the images of the link you sent.
I put an original style flourcent bulb in and re-assembled. I am now getting an error 65 2. I attached the error codes from inside the machine. I also have no lights on the top portion of the machine. :( Where is the "self test switch?
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Test switch is either beside the on/off switch or right behind it. (feel behind that switch box)
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[65-2] is "Game Type Mismatch"
IDK why you're getting that but when you find the Test button, press and hold it for a couple of seconds...it'll clear.
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Thank you. That helped and re-activated the reels to move/position on startup. My error now is "64"..."Link Down". I noticed that there is now a solid green LED (DS2) and non-active red LED (DS1). In the past I would notice that the red (DS1) flashed as what appeared to be a communications LED indicator.
There are no denomination lights lit and there are no lights lit on the top portion of the machine. I am assuming this is the "Link" board? On a rare moment, either power down/power up, all the lights on the top portion will briefly illuminate.
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okay...if the connectors and wiring to the interface COMM board seem to be okay, there's may be something wrong up in the topbox.
I'm going to leave this to Pinball owners to chime in to help you from this point on.
They know what's up in that topbox, and would be able to help you better than I can.
My S+ Barcrest machine may have different components than yours up in there.
Should you decide to poke around up there, be extremely careful when removing that topbox glass.
It's kinda heavy & the last thing you want to do is drop it and smash it.
You'll never find a replacement.
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Thank you very much! I did transport it, am familiar with being careful with that glass and will have an assistant to help when I take it off. Thank you everyone for all your assistance. I did become an annual subscriber.
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Thank you. I only replaced the F15T8/CW flourcent bulb with an LED with the same model#. This is the 18" bulb that lights the bottom portion "1st coin winner/2nd coin bonus". I did not replace any of the individual socket(s)/bulbs that appear in the images of the link you sent.
I put an original style flourcent bulb in and re-assembled. I am now getting an error 65 2. I attached the error codes from inside the machine. I also have no lights on the top portion of the machine. :( Where is the "self test switch?
Ok. The bulb this refers to is the one behind your 25c denomination label. That's the lamp that R3 is in series with. You'll want to pull that bulb out and make sure it's not going to burn up the new motherboard. It may have been that way when you bought it? The only thing a burnt R3 will cause is the denomination light not to work. The machine should work fine other than that providing it didn't damage anything else when it went up in smoke. I can't tell if R4 is damaged too from the photo. You can check it with a multimeter. It's a 180ohm resistor.
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typically when you first turn on the machine, door open, there will not be any of the red or green leds lit on the comms board, the top box should display a T-0? and then change to a CO 1 , the reels should spin, then a solid green led will be on the comms board. close the door, the reels should spin, the top box should come alive,machine is ready to play.
with the hopper out, and the coin tray removed, you can look inside and see what is happening with the leds.
when working properly they should both blink in unison. 64 means no comms between the bottom and top cpu.,there is a three pin connector on the motherboard that terminates at the one connector of the comms board, in between that cable there are two connections to a transistor array board. the other connection on the comms board terminates at the sound module in the top box, blue connector, has to be in the right position for the machine to work, two positions available.
could be anything, power supply in the top box, varta damage to the top cpu board?
Hope this helps
Jim
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My error now is "64"..."Link Down".
there are no lights lit on the top portion of the machine.
When you say there are no lights lit on the top portion of the machine, are you saying that the Barcrest Top Dollar portion of the machine above the reels isn't lighting up at all? If so, that's the cause of the 64 error, as the machine is trying to talk to it, but it's not powered on.
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After further looking into it, the top power supply, MPU5 appears to be bad. I am not getting the proper voltages on the output pins. I found and tried the self check button. That appears to work, cycling the LEDs on the front of the top portion of the machine. I'm not sure what all the tests do. The power red LED on the MPU4 board does illuminate.
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If you have a MPU5 power supply, then it has been modified to fit into that plug configuration, (rewired) take a picture of it , I will compare it to my pictures and see if anything looks off, and identify the voltages per the pin out.
Jim
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After reading some of the other posts, I decided to take a look at the MPU4 board. Unfortunately there appears to be some burnt resistors. I guess I will try to purchase the Barcrest MPU5 power supply and start by replacing the burnt resistors on the MPU4 board.
There are pics of the MPU4 and the MPU5 power supply. There did not appear to be anything visually I could find but I plan to take a 2nd look. Thanks for the assistance.