New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => SIGMA Reel Games => Topic started by: Bluefish11 on November 28, 2019, 05:09:07 PM
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I just picked up this machine, I have to go through it I'm not sure if it's in working condition, I think it has all the parts, can anyone tell me about the value for this unit before I spend cash getting it in working condition?
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Please post a photo of your machine.
Have you plugged it in yet? But first...
If it was laying flat, check inside to make sure no stray coins are stuck anywhere, provided there’s a hopper.
But eat your turkey first! :Tongue_Out:
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I have plugged it in and, the lights come on, no led display, loud buzzing. I think I might need a power supply. I also was wondering what the value is on this unit.
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Did you look inside to determine the possible source of the noise?
There should be a key switch on the side. Try turning it once and see if it boots up.
I'd also check connections in side to make sure nothing came loose.
Did you make sure no coins were strewn around the inside?
Value of slot machines is dependent on location, age, desirability, etc. If it's broken, it's a parts machine.
We have a few members here experienced in Sigma machines. I'd let them chime in once you try the suggestions to determine what the problem might be. It might not cost that much to repair.
If you like the machine, and enjoy the experience of bringing it back to life, then it's valuable to you IF you want to keep it.
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If the photo of the machine is actually your machine and not a stock photo, then the LED display is working. Looks like your meters are either not plugged in or the meter stack is bad. Check the connections and make sure the wires are good. I believe there is also a 100 ohm resister in the wiring stack with the meters that tells the computer the stack is connected.
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looking at the schematic, the resistor is located between pins 5 & 7
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It is the exact unit the led is saying check wire meter cut, someone defiantly has been in this unit, looks like some tried to use a blue wire for a jumper and disconnected another plug on the mpu, I show in photos.
I got this unit from a friend for a 12pk. of michelob ultra he said it was working but it stopped.
I didn't have a key for the unit. I tried a motorcycle round key, the switch turned a little like about a quarter turn I'm not sure if that did anything but the buzzing was gone when I plugged it in.
Other connections on the board are disconnected, should I reconnect?
I checked there are no coins floating around.
I also have 3.03v on the battery on the board.
Thanks for all the help!!
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Attached is a schematic of the layout of a Sigma 777 Nudge with Bill Validator. Looks like there is also what is described as a "Canadian" Nudge Machine. Must be a different layout because it uses the same motherboard. So a total of 4 different Nudge 777's. US and CAN with Bill Validator, US and CAN without...
Also, on the keys switches. You can always bypass the switches by jumpering the wires attached to each key as necessary...
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FYI, looks like the schematic you are showing is for the PT-4 which is a sit down machine...I picture of his slot looks to be a SG-32 or SG-50 and the schematics are different.
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I just went with the names on the print. I have a Sigma SG-50B. Schematics are very similar. My Mother board has a daughter board on it. I would need a picture of HIS Mother board with the Sigma Number on it. That might help a little...
Bill in Spokane...
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Maybe if I had read a little further in the listing, I would have seen that... Not even sure what a "NUDGE" machine is...
Attached is a SG-50B NUDGE with Bill Validator.
I do see that there are prints for PT-4, SG-150, SG-32 and SG-50. SO, as you said, it does look like a 32 or 50. Size matters...
I learned something today... Thanks...
Bill in Spokane...
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The model is SG-50NB
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Thanks for the schematics! I'm not sure what I'm looking for, I connected the one connection and there are no other wires that are disconnected but there are sockets on the board that don't have anything connected to them. Am I missing something?
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Which sockets don't have plugs in them?
Locate that spot on the Main board in the schematic. Follow the cable assembly to the other end. Then check that point and see if there is a loose cable hanging off of it. If there is, then that should be connected to the spot on the mother board.
Looks like CN-8 is the only socket that might not be connected. On my machine all of my connectors are hooked up.
Maybe a couple of pictures of the empty sockets will help find out where the cable is...
Bill in Spokane...
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I took out the MPU board and found a connection it's for the socket that has that blue jumper on it. the blue jumper is soldered in, I'm not sure why someone would do that but should I try to remove it and try the plug?
There is another socket without a plug I looked everywhere I cant find anything disconnected unless something was removed. I hope these photos can help.
Thanks
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It looks like the connector that has the jumper is CN-4. That appears to have 16 pins. The 2 that are jumpered appear to be #1 and #4. #4 is common and have no idea what #1 is. In your picture you can see the #1 that is near the word "sigma". That is pin #1 and you count #2 is behind it in the second row. So the #3 is next to #1 and #4 is next to #2. The print shows a #14 but I think that I am seeing 16 pins.
My plug at CN-4 is wired different than the schematic for mine. Mine does NOT have a #9 wire for hand pay connected. MY connector has 16 pins. I have #4 as GREEN with WHITE tracer, #6 as GREEN, #7 as YELLOW, #13 as RED, #10 as BLACK and #14 as ORANGE with BLACK tracer. So on my plug there is no wire going to the #1 Position... BUT, the Blue jumper is on the BOARD and is connecting "SOMETHING" there.
What is the Connector Number of the other disconnected socket? I suspect it is CN-8. Am I right? It should be a 5 pin socket/header...
Are you handy with a small soldering iron? If so you might want to remove the blue wire and plug in the connector. IF you cannot solder, you can take the board to an electronics shop and have them give you a hand getting it off and removing all the solder.
Maybe another SIGMA GUY will chime in with what he thinks...
Good luck...
Bill in Spokane...
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Thank you for your help!
I got a mess here I hope I could get this unit going.
Yes socket CN-8
This is the connection that is goes on the socket. In photo.
I hope someone could help me with this unit, I'm fine with buying parts.
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Great Picture... Your machine does have a wire, BLACK with WHITE tracer, as pin #9. Rest of the wires are as per the print.
Next step is probably to see where the other end connects and make sure that there is no other modification that have been done... This is easy to get to because it is located on the door.
Mine has wires going into the board at connectors CN-21, CN-22, CN-23,CN-25. Yours will have the nudge buttons connected at CN-24...
I will attach the picture of my Distribution PCB...
If all looks good, then I guess I'd remove the blue wire and see if your error clears. I suspect that it WON'T. Then I guess plug in the Connector at CN-4. Then see what you get...
Good Luck...
Bill in Spokane...
Corrected the picture as of 4:20 pm PST on 12-7-2019
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I checked the socket with the blue jumper again, and it is cn4.
Here's a photo of the door I'm not sure if I'm missing a harness or some connection?
I am missing the plug for socket cn10, the plug for that is gone.
I wasn't able to get the photo you sent.
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Your Door Distribution should have 5 connections. That is what I see in your picture, so all of that is good. I corrected my picture, so you can compare it to yours. The schematic also shows 5 connections.
The CN-10 that has no connection is not shown on your Schematic. The schematic shows a 340023 Rev A and your is a Rev A1. That might be the difference. All of the boards that I see for Sigma's that are 340023 Rev A. NO Rev A1's. I do see that there are some that have a different layout, even though they have the same Printed Circuit Board Number. I see one that has a CN-10 with 20 pins. It IS NOT for your Machine. I see that it is for a 9 Line that has CN-10 connect to a Slot Display Controller. VERY DIFFERENT Machine....Weird...
Your Machine should have CN-1, CN-2, CN-3, CN-4, CN-5, CN-6, CN-8, CN-9 connected on the mother board. The Blue jumper is preventing you from plugging in CN-4.
I suspect that getting the jumper removed and plugging in the connector, you will get rid of the error and maybe go right to play mode...
Bill in Spokane...
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https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/sigma-sg50b-slot-machine-circuit-1888350118 (https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/sigma-sg50b-slot-machine-circuit-1888350118)
I believe that this item is sold. BUT, for pictures of your board, this is great. It looks as though it has CN-10 also...
I hope that the link is posted, if not just google 340023 Rev a1 and look in the images.
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I took the jumper off plugged the socket in but I got the same results.
but I noticed another place the board was altered, it looks like a chip is missing. Maybe I should try to find another board. This my not even be the proper board for this unit.
the number on the board is RC3566.
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Well that isn't what I wanted to see... You DO have the correct Printed Circuit Board. The lower picture (3rd one) shows a SW and a JP. On your board it shows a wire bridge over pins 3 and 4. I have attached a clip from the SG-32 and SG-50B manual (page 1-27). I believe that you said you had that. I also am attaching a picture from another Forum that shows your board (Mech-Slot 340023 Rev A1) and the SW and JP area.
On my board I have a switch package at the SW area. This is called a DIP Switch. It has little switches that can be turned on or off.
On the JP area I have the same thing you have. BUT I have no wire bridges on my original board. I have Bridges on my Replacement board, but they have been lifted. I believe that the functions that jumpered 3 and 4 on JP are done in the SW.
WHAT I NEED FROM YOU IS: A good clear picture of the BACK of the board showing any jumper wires that have been put on the board under the SW area. On my board I have a red jumper wire that forces the switch position (#8) to be closed no matter what the position of the little switch on the DIP.
Any error codes displayed?
Bill in Spokane...
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There's no codes coming up, the tilt light is on and the meter wire not connected warning scrolls on the screen.
There is another blue jumper on the bottom! This one is on CN3.
On the photos the bottom of the photo is the side the round battery is on.
Thanks again for your help.
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Nice pictures. Jumpers on the Switch are good. #6 is if the machine are connected to a progressive linked system. It depends on #2 being jumpered and it is NOT. So that is a non-event. #7 is for attendant pay which corresponds to the black wire on the connector on the door at CN-25. So that too is GOOD.
Blue jumper on CN-3 is different. The schematic shows that it is a 30 pin connector. Is there a 6 digit number on the connector? If I have that number I can look up the cable and it might tell me where the wires come from and go to... There is sometimes, a little plastic tab attached to the cable.
I realized that you said you did not have a key that fit into the 3 positions on the right side of the machine near the handle. If that is true, you will need to either get a switch or jumper the 2 lugs that are connected to the switch. The forward one, closest to the player, is for reset. That needs to be available to reset the machine. I saw an answer to a problem and it said to do this:
with game off- turn and hold reset key- (IN YOUR CASE JUMPER THE 2 WIRES OFF THE KEY SWITCH)depress and hold test button (inside machine)-(White button near the internal power socket)turn on game while holding test button and holding key on-message will flash "data reset" on the display.Try that see if it clears your issue.
IF it does clear your issues, you might have to put the blue jumper back and leave the CN-4 plug disconnected like it was when you got it...
Bought some parts for my machine from a machine that was being parted out. Might get a switch with key from him. Bob Pohlmann. BobSamRon @Gmail.com ...
More to follow....
Bill in Spokane...
Note: Font for last lines was at 2, so the text was nearly invisible. Changed to readable size.
~moderator
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Ok, I tried to connect the two wires from the rest switch together with a small piece of wire but I'm not sure if it's a proper jumper.
I emailed the guy you told me about to see if he has any keys, thank you.
I also took out the rest switch to see if my local lock smith can help me,
I wonder if one key fits all the switches, there's a RESET, METER and a LAST switch.
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On mine 1 key fits all 3 switches. BUT there is a procedure that requires 2 keys to be inserted and the switches to be turned on. So, you might want to get 2 keys. My local locksmith suggested taking the switch to him and that way they can test them before you haul it home, doesn't fit and go back to get it right...
Bill in Spokane....
It been fun to work with you on this project....
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Thank you for your help Bill.
The machine is a 1993, here's a photo of the switches.
I will contact Alan for parts he has helped me before with my other machine.
thank you
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I give up!! :banghead:
I'm posting it on CL for sale.
Thanks again for everyones help.
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Sorry to hear that... I think with the key and a little more troubleshooting, we might have got it. I am a retired Electrician and Systematic Troubleshooting and Repair is what I did my whole life. 1969-2012. Miss it and enjoy fixing "Broke S#it"...
Bill in Spokane...