New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Chet on November 28, 2023, 05:53:51 PM
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I'm having the same problem on a IGT Red White and Blue machine I just bought. I have 110 VAC in the power supply but not at the transformer in the power supply. The floresent lights all work, the reels have drag, and the 110 receptical in front has power nothing else happens. Did you get the problem resolved?
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Any luck?
My S-Plus was like that when I bought it. I haven't found anything wrong except by the Game Prom chip it looks like C35 has been damaged. I attached a photo.
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You probably should have started a separate thread for your problem Chet, but it looks to me like the leads that used to go to the cap are shorted together and that would be sending the +5VDC straight to ground. It looks like it has some scorch marks on it too from that. Cut those leads off so they aren't shorted, check all your fuses, and try it again. It may have damaged other components on the MPU board.
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topic has been split
Thanks,
Wayne
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I merged another topic into this thread.
Chet: Welcome to NLG. We've taken your replies to old posts and merged them into this new thread. Please post any information and updates about your machine in this thread to avoid any confusion with unrelated machines and threads.
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That glass on top of your Reel chip really needs to be covered up.
A piece of label tape woul be sufficent.
That clear port hole is the UV Erasure glass.....allowing natural light into it erases programming.
Hopefully it hasn't been uncovered very long and kept somewhat hidden in the dark in the cabinet.
The Game Prom looks perfectly covered up with the green label.
However, on the green label, it is written that it is a an SS Reel Prom chip?
If so, it's in the incorrect socket.
It's hard to see...I think someone wrote "SS4247" ?
Can you tell us exactly what is written on that green label?
You may need to get them sent out and checked out.
I circled the glass port you need to get covered up on the Reel Prom.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Good eye Bunker. I was so focused on the cap leads I didn't even notice that he has a reel chip in the Game PROM socket. I thought the one without the lens covered was the SP chip, but it's a 27C64 and Game PROMs are 27C512s, so it's a REEL chip too and he's missing the game PROM.
Chet, post a picture of your machine please. That way we can check your SS chip and tell you what SP chip you need for it. It appears you have two SS reel chips installed, it won't work that way for sure. But still fix those cap leads if they're touching like it looks.
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Thank you for responding. As best I can read the chip info is: D2764A-2 U6250063S PGM 12.5V Intel 83.
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Sorry only 1 picture posted. A picture of the Machine.
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That's helpful, thanks. The Reel chip is in the wrong place and it's also the wrong chip for your game. SS4247 is for a 3CM Double Diamond Deluxe. The chip in the REEL PROM is the correct size for a reel chip and may be one for your machine. It's not labeled and since your machine won't boot, without an EPROM reader you can't tell what's on it.
The first thing I recommend you do is send a PM to member RB here on NLG and get a Game and Reel prom for your machine. I recommend SP731 (Game) and SS6624 (Reel). SS6624 has a 98.02% payback. Also get a set and clear chip for it from him too.
While you're waiting on those remove the short from the cap leads and check the battery voltage. If it's dead or below 2.8V you might as well replace it now.
Once you get the correct chips and installed correctly then you can install the board in the machine and see if it boots up.
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Yes. The green label has SS4247 hand written on it. I ordered all the chips from RB and we will replace the cap on Monday. I am still concerned about the proper output voltage of the power supply. I will try to test at the motherboard connection for 8-10 VAC and 24Vac. it will be Wed before I have everything in place.
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Update after replacing bad cap, installing correct cips and checking battery and fuses.
Still not booting up. Still no display. When I hold in the reset by the off and on switch I get a beep. If I hold the reset key outside I can hear the pull handle release and I get the spin reels light. Press or pulling these 4 times spins the reels with out sound and I never hit a pay line. Also the reels stop from right to left. I have no candle at this point to see what it indicates. Not sure which one I need. I did have a steady 7 volts on 1 pin of a 9 or more pin plug I think is for the candle. No LED light on coin meter and no wire going to it.
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...When I hold in the reset by the off and on switch I get a beep....
That little white button near your power switch box is called your "Test" switch.
The keyswitch on the outside of the cabinet would be called your "Jackpot Reset" key....or "Reset Key".
Both are momentary switches.
When you hear a "beep" or "ding" after pushing and holding the Test button for a few seconds, is this when you have the Clear chip in?
Something doesn't make sense here, the machine should not "beep" if you have the SP and SS software chips in while pushing the Test button.
Could you remove the topbox glass and take a good photo of your candle connectors?
The candle should only need a 4-pin, 2-row Molex connector.
I don't know what this 9+pin connector is that you're speaking of?
Your machine might have player tracking equipment still in there?
There's not suppose to be any LED lights on any meters.
Please show us a photo of this "coin meter"?
Are you talking about the coin comparitor unit?
There's an LED bulb on that, but it will NOT be on, while the machine door is open.
Go to this link for the NLG Homepage.
Scroll down a little and look on the right hand side of the page.
You will see a bunch of links to S+ terms called "Rick's FAQ".
You need to do some reading as to what is what on your slot machine.
Here's the link...>>>
http://www.newlifegames.net/newbie/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/newbie/)
I'm attaching also below, a drawing of the Molex power connector that runs from the power supply to the motherboard.
Set your multimeter to read AC voltage outputs, not DC....if you have, and know how to use one.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Thanks again for responding. I have a fluke multi meter and know how to use it well. i"ll check the pins out early tomarrow after my midnight shift. meanwhile here are some photos. I did get the bet credit button 3 or 4 times and a spin.
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The 4-pin red/yellow/purple/blue harness is for your topbox candle.
It's clearly unplugged from any candle that shold be above it.
The large harness connector is for optional equipment such as progressive displays.
If you can, show me a photo of that small green circuit board laying in the topbox.
That's not supposed to be in there.
The other blue circuit board in that 1st photo is part of a non-working player's card reading device attached to the font panel.
In the second photo, there's a small white momentary button on the lower circuit board underneath the coin comparitor.
Each press of that "Service Credit" button puts one credit onto the machine up to max bet.
It's basically reserved for tech's to test stuff.
In the 3rd photo you supplied, one can clearly see the little white "Service Credit" button again.
It's next to the red connector for the coin-in circuit board.
The coin-in circuit board is what senses validated coins from the coin comparitor above it and tells the machine to add a credit.
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Would you care to post a picture or two of the motherboard area (with the power off, remove the hopper and the MPU board tray and take pictures of the board that the MPU board plugs into)? It's possible a previous owner plugged a harness into the motherboard incorrectly.
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Thanks for your all help so far. I've learned alot already. I read the pins on the mother board and foud some differances.
Pin 1 Green/Green had zero volts AC to chassie ground. Low ohms to chassie
Pin 2 Green/green was also zero volts. Low ohms to chassie
Pin 3 was 7.83 volts AC to chassie ground.
Pin4 was 9 volts AC to chassie
Pin 5 was 12.88 volts AC to chassie
Pin 6 12.88 volts to chassie.
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I had the mother board out to clean it and think I plugged everything back as I received it.
Lots of pictures incloded. The player tracking system is there but not connected to anything.
The white service credit is not working. the BVD cycles on power up. The mother boerd pictures and inside the top.
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Did you remove your physical meters (coin in/out) and put them back in. If so try removing them and see if there are any changes.
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I pressed the Service Credit button on the coin meter and watched the front display to see if it added credits. No change but when I held it in I the 61 1 code to show but only when I continously hold the little white service credit button.
From the P10 on the power supply I get these valtages
Socket 2-3 26VAC
Socket 2-4 13VAC
Socket 3-4 13VAC
Socket 5-6 8VAC
Socket 5-1 9VAC
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Read this link for the [61-1] shown on your display...especially the last two sentences...>>>
http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/)
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Thanks everyone for the advice. I still get no digital display unless I hold the little white button on the coin meter. After checking the coin box door I found the switch jumpered and bare wires touching the metal, Fixed that and did the ram clear with the hopper in. There was never a ding after pressing the test switch. After closing and latching the door I turned the Jackpot key and reel cycled after a moment. Put the right chip back. Still not working right. No display, it will show 0 credit if press the service credit button but goes out. I think this is progress and will probably do another ram clear. I attached a better photo of the board in the top of the case and 1 of the last error I had.
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Put that Clear chip away....you're only causing MORE PROBLEMS with it.
It fixes nothing right now.
[62-1] means you need to turn off the power switch, remove the MPU and check the pins on the Reel PROM.
You probably have a folded, bent leg under the chip body.
Take a close up photo of the reel chip in it's socket.
That green board in your photo is nothing that you will ever use.
It's a switch for a Bally player tracking system.
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Greetings,
I put the clear chip away and checked both chips. Everything looks good under magnification.
Power on:
No beeps, nothing from BV, Reels lock, and denom is lit.
Press test button by power switch once:
No beeps, Bet 1 credit button lights up. Nothing else. Wait a moment then press test button again. Pull handle solenoid releases and Spin Reels button lights up.
Close door:
Both buttons lights go off, Reels cycle and stop from right to left.
Insert Coin display is on.
Turn Jackpot key once:
Pull handle released, Bet 1 credit and Spin Reels buttons light uo for about a minute and go out, handle locks. Insert Coins light up after a moment.
Inserted several coins and nothing changed. Coin did go in the hopper and I turned the adjustment on the coin meter to lowest setting.
Opened door and pressed little white service credit button on coin meter and the blank Coins Played display changes to a 0 while the button is held down then goes back out.
Insert Coins stay lit.
Jackpot key again:
Bet one Credit and the Spin Reels light up.
Press Spin Reels button 4 time and reels spin, then stop right to left. After a moment the buttons go out.
Any Ideas? New MPU?
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There are several mechanical meters inside the machine.
Did you remove these when you were cleaning up ?
If so pull them out and leave them out.
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I was hoping you would gently take out the SS and SP chips, to see if a chip leg was folded underneath a chip body.
Could you try something?
Open the door.
Turn ON the power switch.
Watch the [Coins Played] window, while you press the little white Test button, about 9 times.
Stop when you see the number 4 in that window.
Tell us what you see in the [Winner Paid] and [Credits] windows?
Thank you.
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There are several mechanical meters inside the machine.
Did you remove these when you were cleaning up ?
If so pull them out and leave them out.
There are 3 meters inside on the right. Should I remove those?
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Did you have them out previously ? and if so the answer is Yes. If you haven't touched these - leave them alone.
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I was hoping you would gently take out the SS and SP chips, to see if a chip leg was folded underneath a chip body.
Could you try something?
Open the door.
Turn ON the power switch.
Watch the [Coins Played] window, while you press the little white Test button, about 9 times.
Stop when you see the number 4 in that window.
Tell us what you see in the [Winner Paid] and [Credits] windows?
Thank you.
I did remove the chips with a proper chip puller. They were not bent or damaged in anyway.
I will do the test when I get home from work tonight. About 8 PM. Power off ,then power on and press the Test button next to the on/off switch. Am I looking for the number 4, or everything in the brackets?
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Did you have them out previously ? and if so the answer is Yes. If you haven't touched these - leave them alone.
I have never touched the counters but have no idea what has been done in the past. I'm don't think they are counting. I watched them awhile back to see if they were do anything and they weren't. I bought this not working a few weeks ago.
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Yes, stop pressing the Test button when you see a number 4.
Then tell us what you see in the other windows on the display.
I want to see if the machine will tell us what chips it's "seeing".
Take a photo of the display when you get to the #4.
oh, the mechanical counters use a harness that has about 7 brown wires running down to a Black 7-pin Molex connector on the motherboard.
Just pull the black connector out of there...they're NOT very accurate( due to age) and you don't need them anyways.
Below is a drawing of the motherboard connectors.
The mechanical meters should be plugged into [J5]
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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No codes on any display is the short story.
I opened the front and turned on power. The reels spin after a moment and stop right to left.
On the front the denom lit up and Insert Coin displays.
1st press of Test button Insert Coin goes out. Bet One Credit lights up.
2nd press Spin Reels lights up, soleinoid for handle lock drops, Bet One Credit stays lit.
3rd press Nothing changes.
4th press Spin Reels goes out, Bet One Credit stays lit.
5th press Bet One Credit goes out, Spin Reels lights up
6th press Bet One Credit lights up, Spin Reels stays lit.
7th press Spin reels goes out, Bet One Credit stays on.
8th press Nothing changes
9th press Nothing changes.
I pressed the test button numerous times. No codes appear anywhere. I pressed the lit Spin Reels button with the front open and the reels spun and stopped the correct way. Right to left. closed door light on Spin Reels went off. Opened the front and pressed the Service Credit button on the coin meter and the Coins Played displays 0 but only while the button is held in. I also put coins in while the Insert Coins is lit and the coin drops in the hopper but no credit is registered.
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Did you pull out the brown mechanical meter harness from the motherboard or no?
Your deck button lights are working correctly....you're just not seeing numbers change on the display because you said nothing happens when you hit the Test button the 4th time....we see the 5-2 change to a 10 1 in the Winner Paid window on the display.
However, when I press the Sevice Credit button on the coin-in optics board, I get a number "1" in the [Coins Played] window, and the Coin Accepted lamp comes on.
That is what is supposed to happen when the door is open.
But...but...if the door is opened, and the optics are bypassed, the machine THINKS the door is closed.
When I push the Sevice Credit button, even holding it in, I get the briefest zero in the Coins Played window ( it goes out almost right away) but a solid number [21] error shown in the WInner Paid winow which means the Service Credit should have been able to be accessed by anyone...why? Because the machine THOUGHT the door was closed with bypassed door optics.
The question now is...did you leave the bypass wires together, then pushed the Service Credit button to see that zero come on your display?
I'm wondeing why you didn't get to see the [21] error.
I wish you had a spare display to try with your machine because for some reason or another, that display isn't working correctly.
Also, because you cannot see anything on the display, you don't know if it's registering credits when a coin goes thru and falls into the hopper.
Drop a coin in, then press the spin button....does it play?
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I think the brown mechanical meter harness is pulled from the mother board.
I haven't done anything with the door optics. I think it is working because when I have the door open and deck lights are on then close door deck lights go out.
It does not play or show a coin registered after putting one or several coins in. I posted video on YouTube of last night. Here are the links:
https://youtu.be/g8hOxeh-wSU?si=slGWGzyW_5Lvxvw_
https://youtu.be/KFBVcr8zawM?si=jXYN1Nx-sPqfuvxW
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Your door optics are NOT working.
That's why the machine won't accept coins, and when you turn the key, you are actually in Accounting mode.
When you press the Bet One Credit button, that's the same thing as pressing the litte white Test button to switch between Diagnostic pages.
So when you press the Bet One Credit once, you're now in the history mode...pressing the spin button spins the reels to where they stopped on the last gamep played.
Pressing the spin button 4 times is actually giving you the history of where the reels stopped 2 games ago, and so on, and so on.
If you leave it alone for about a minute, the machine will exit itself out of the accounting pages, and reels will spin to where they were on the last game played.
I've always found that creepy! haha
Solution: You need to get a new set of door optics or bypass them.
Also,your display may be okay...check right away...>>>
Your top 6 amp fuse is blown on the main power supply underneath the cashbox.
Solution: Get a 6 amp quick-blow fuse from an auto parts store.
Make sure it has the thin wire inside the clear glass tube, not a thin flat filament.
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The fuses are good and correct, I jumpered the door optics like the YouTube video you posted. Then did a visual inspection and tested most of the wires on the door back to the female plugs above the mother board with a ohm meter. That and finding power on several locations on the front door I think the harness is good. Since buying this machine not working a few weeks ago. I have checked the battery on the back of the board to confirm power was getting to the back, cleaned the connections with Deoxit. Put in new game and reel chips. jumpered the cashbox microswitch. The reels spin, hopper works, speaker beeps, Insert Coins is lit, the BV cycles once in a while. Good progress I think for a newbe. Not sure what to do next. a different MPU? Clear CMOS? Replace coin meter? Go Step by step with the flip cards is on todays list. Here is a link to a YouTube video That will help explain where I'm at.
https://youtu.be/yi4zWD4R_04?si=G-GwtPfDTDYXKguK
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Do NOT run any Clear chip...it fixes only one thing, a "61_1 Loop".
You were able to get to page 4 with the Test button and the MPU shows on the display that you have an SP731 GAME PROM and an SS6624 REEL PROM chips...awesome! The MPU "sees" your chips....that's good.
I don't know why the display is flickering...might be camera shutter speed?
Wiggle the two black molex connectors underneath the back of the display.
Disconnect & econnect a few times.
Might be just an oxidized ground pin giving a flakey, bad contact.
Also, it looks like your door optics are okay.
You need a coin comparitor harness in order for the coin comparitor to work and accept coins...lol
Use one from another S+ machine if you have one....they're all the same.
Your "Insert Coin" lamp is lit up....that means the machine is ready to accept coins.
Drop some coins into the slot...tell us where they go....>>>into the hopper bowl, down into the drop hole, or returned down to the coin tray.
Stop pressing the Test switch...lol...you keep going into setting, options & hitting the deck buttons and changing settings...I'm sure it's ALL messed up by now...lol
Let's get your machine to accept a coin first.
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The coin comparitor has no power to it. It goes by weight alone. No connector on the door for it. I have tried moving the harness around but haven't unplugged the connectors. I used my meter and can read cotinunity from the solder points on the board back to the female connectors above the MPU but not down to the mother board. I have tried wiping the coin meter adjustment. When I press and hold in the Service Credit button is the only time I can read the codes. Maybe it's the issue somehow or the wires from the mother board to the plugs above on the back of the case. I could build a coin comparitor harness if I new where it went.
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The harness connector could be behind the coin comparitor unit.
Pull the CC off of the clips and remove the two Philips screws holding coin mech bracket, remove the bracket from the door.
You will see the white Molex on the door harness.
I'll try to find a pcture for you.
You you don't have a CC harness, then you can remove the magnetic rake behind the coin comparitor.
Once removed, the coins will fall directly into the coin-in optics board underneath the CC, and register as credits back to the MPU.
But really, you should get a CC harness.
Finally, the Service Credit button on the bottom of the coin-in optics board under the coin comparitor ONLY works when the door is in an open-state.
Open the door, press it twice (Your game is a 2 coin game), and press the spin button on the button deck without closing the door - the reels should spin to play one game.
Below is a couple of photos CC harnesses...the connector you're looking for on the door harness, would be 3-pins and white...>>>
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"Finally, the Service Credit button on the bottom of the coin-in optics board under the coin comparitor ONLY works when the door is in an open-state.
Open the door, press it twice (Your game is a 2 coin game), and press the spin button on the button deck without closing the door - the reels should spin to play one game.
Below is a couple of photos CC harnesses...the connector you're looking for on the door harness, would be 3-pins and white...>>>"
My Service Credit button never gives me credits or credits coins. It doe not matter if the door is open or closed. I put my feeler gauge in it and did get the 21 code. I can only see the codes if I hold in the Service Credit button. I think the MPU and Motherboard needs to be checked out by a pro.
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Mother board ? Or MPU ?
The motherboard is the small fixed board at the bottom of the cabinet and the MPU is the large removeable board.
Jim (from this forum) - can likely have your board tested / repaired and/or replaced.
Pm him
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Okay.
I recieved the display, the motherboard and the MPU in the mail this morning.
First thing I noticed was a horrible battery holder install.
The battery soldering pads were completely falling off of the MPU. ( From being overheated too long).
Someone tried to stuff the holes with wire in a vain attempt to make continuity to the backside... :sillyme:
Anyways, I ripped everything off, and re-soldered everything back the way it should be.
I tested it in my bench tester and found out your MPU was stuck in the [61-1] Loop.
I ran a Clear chip and re-set up the board in the options.
It's now set up for .25 cents and to lock up at 1000 credits.
I hooked up your long reel glass display panel and it works fine.
But when I installed the motherboard, there was no display although the machine accepted coins and played normally - just zero display.
When I took the motherboard out and rehooked back my tester motherboard, your display came back on.
I tried everything but I'm certain that there's something wrong with the continuity on the motherboard somewhere that concerns the display circuit lines.
It can be a broken trace, or a cold-solder joint too.
I re-heated solder that runs on the power traces and MPU pins to the display.
I also sprayed De-Oxit on the pins for the MPU and header connections.
SOMETHING is wrong with that motherboard.
There's quite a bit over overheated looking areas on the board as well.
There's excessive staining all along the MPU header pins that plug into the motherboard...it hard to tell what it was...soda, flux?
Something hot fell onto the motherboard and it's has lost continuity between the component side and non-component side.
There's tiny, minute solder bits everywhere on the board.
I suggest that you get another motherboard to replace this one.
You will need to get a hold of member Jim of Midwest slots for a motherboard and ask if he has a Clear and SET015 chip for you as well.
If not, maybe member RB will have some chips for you.
Your SP731 and SS6624 software chips are fine.
PM your email address to me so I can give you more information.
You guys have to see what I saw when I opened the box...WOW!
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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K+ Mark for your efforts to help this member.
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Thanks Knagl,
You know me too well...lol...I like trying to help members.
There's basically 5 wires that light up the digital LED numbers on the display panel...>>>
Pin-1 Gray w/blue stripe
Pin-2 Gray w/purple stripe
Pin-3 Gray
Pin-4 Red w/black stripe
Pin-5 Green ground
These run thru the main door harness back to the two long, black thirty and forty pin headers on the rear of the motherboard.
From there, they go all over the place on the motherboard traces to different pins....some traces run thru and under the board.
Trying to find the break in continuity is next to impossible I'm afraid to say.
To make things even worse, there are OTHER gray w/purple stripe wires or solid gray ones :banghead: - that only multiplies the difficulty in pinpointing the problem line.
Because of that, I had no problem suggesting the best move was to find a replacement motherboard.
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Hello Everyone,
Update:
I have the new motherboard and a candle installed. After Mark checked out my boards. Everything but the motherboard was good. All parts are installed and the display is now working.
I have a 65-1 code in the winner paid display and the top light of the candle is flashing slow and the bottom is flashing fast. What next?
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Stolen from another thread…..
As far as as 65-1 error, the correct procedure is to open the door, press and hold the self test button for a couple of seconds, then release it -- the error should clear.
A list of common S+ error codes and their resolutions can be found here: http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)
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Hi Jay,
I"ve tried pressing the self test button. That clears the error for a short moment then a 2 flashes in the coins played and the 65-1 error is back. The candle flashes slow at top and fast at bottom. The new MB from Jim did fix my diplay. Very close to playing now.
Everyone has been a big help in saving this machine.
Thanks,
Chet
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Double check
Your game and reel chips. Make sure one is not in backwards or that there is no legs bent under.
Regarding the right way to orient chips there is a small hole on the top of the chip that goes the same way as the knotch on the front of the socket.
Leg bent under is my archileas heel.
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The [65-1] error means that there is bad data in the small, 8-leg 24C04 EEPROM on the motherboard.
Normally, ones opens the door, and holds the Test button for a few seconds, to clear it.
Don't just press the Test button, hold it until you hear a "ding" or 3 seconds.
At that point, you close the door, the machine boots up, the reels spin from right to left, and the Insert Coin lamp comes on.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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I held the test button until the error stopped displaying. I did not wait for the ding. I'll try that first then disconnect the candle and try again. The display problem was solved by replacing the mother board. The old motherboard did not work in a different machine.
I have a display!!!
Thank you everyone,
Chet
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I held the test button until the error stopped displaying. I did not wait for the ding...
It may or may not "ding", what you want is the [65-1] to go out.
You were supposed to close the door next.