New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: polishdan on February 07, 2022, 12:00:06 PM
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I just picked up a slant top 50cent Double Double Bonus Poker with monitor (Ceronix 1493) problems. Monitor comes up reasonably bright white with a little flickering, but does take a while to warm up to that. Don't know if it is a problem with the signal from MPU or bad monitor. Before I spend the bug bucks, I need to make sure it is the monitor as the problem. Fuses and battery ok, MPU looks clean. when powering up, bill changer cycles and lights turn, but not game buttons. What is the next step in diagnosis? Where can I run serial number to determine model?
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Similar to your S+ there is a white self test button.
It should take you through a series of screens - provided there are no credits on the machine.
One of the screens has button tests on it, another color tests.
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that was one of the first things I tried, no response in lights, buttons, changer, or monitor when I pressed it.
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Breakthrough! Just went back and redid self test (pulled button up and then depressed) and got this error message (in 3 fuzzy colors) "DOOR OPEN, CALL ATTENDANT, CMOS DATA". Any Clues?
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WOW problem solved! Previous owner replaced battery and did not reset. I followed this 5 year old thread and it worked! Not all issues solved, but getting closer.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14484.msg77615#msg77615 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14484.msg77615#msg77615)
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Congrats :applause:. Glad you were able to get it working and thanks for the update. The CMOS error message is normally caused by the battery getting low or after it's been replaced. You may need a SET chip to set the denomination and enable the bill validator if you have problems with it.
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Good job.... now you need to find a new monitor or get this one reconditioned.
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You said your monitor is 1493.
If you can replace the capacitors, that should get it working.
Here is a link to repairs/caps I put up, it's for the 1492 but will be close. I have caps and do the cap replacement. PM me if you like.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=31351.msg171185#msg171185 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=31351.msg171185#msg171185)
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The monitor really isn't that bad yet.
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2 ?'s
How do I identify this is a PE of PE PLUS?
Where can I find the correct chip?
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2 ?'s
How do I identify this is a PE of PE PLUS?
Where can I find the correct chip?
If it has a BV it is a PE+
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If its a PE+ your next question (should be) does it have a superboard ?
You can pull your MPU and post a picture - also if it has both a program and data chip its a superboard.
Superboards are green, most of the non-superboards are brown (but thats a generalization)
Superboards support more complex games like duces wild and can have a multi-game chip set and run all the games from non superboard as well.
Have you found Ricks FAQ on the main page - it has a list of all of the S+ and PE+ games you can morf your machines into.
With the S+ you need glass, reelstrips and chips, with the PE+ you only need the chips as everything is on screen.
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I am assuming a BV is bill validator, yes.
My objective is to reconfigure this with Multi games - Jacks or Better (8/6 or 9/5), Double up capability, Black Jack, and whatever else can come with this combination. If I need a superboard to achieve this, I will have to source it. I will check out Ricks FAQ's. I still have an issue with 4 of 5 hold/cancel buttons not responding (left one is only one working). In addition, I haven't been able to get rid of door open message wvwn with door secure.
In what order should I resolve these issues? Do I go for the new board first, or fix the smaller issues first? Do I need to get a reset chip?
I am having a ball redoing this machine! Obviously, I need serious experienced advisors to help me. THX
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Well the good news is you have a superboard, so you just need the multi-game software for it. In the photo the transformer is disconnected from the MPU board, why is that?
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Generally speaking the buttons all share a common ground (daisy chained) and when 4 out of 5 don't work its usually a bad connection on the ground.
There is a self test screen for the buttons, just push the white button until you get there.
You can test the buttons - if they don't work pull the wires off and short them. This will tell you if its the button (mechanical).
You can also run a jumper to the ground on the working button and short to that and see if the connection works.
Some times you find buttons do work but the bulb is out or that they are just sticky (usually stuck in) due to too much Rum and Coke being used to "loosen" the machine.
Door open - might be door optics or you didn't close the door. Just a FYI - they are the same as the ones used for the S+ so you can borrow them to test if needed.
It could be that the cash can door is open - usually the locks are removed from the cash can ... sometimes the door is not tightly closed or doesn't stay that way.
I use a small strip of electrical tape to keep it closed.
Machine won't play until the message changes to Door Closed.
You should get both a Set Chip and Clear Chip. The Set Chip is used for enabling the bill validator and setting the denomination. The Clear brings the machine down to factory settings - clear chips are use very rarely and even more rarely on the PE+ than the S+ When you order the multi-game chip set order these two as well - but for now I would not start changing anything until your button and door issue is resolved.
A game kit consists of a CAPX chip MGO, MRO, MBO, MYO and MXO (Graphics) followed by Program and Data chips (8 total).
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In the photo, the disconnected transformer was the reason I got the machine for $35. The guy I bought it from replaced the lithium battery and couldn't get it running again. As soon as I say that, I started bringing it back to life and got the monitor running. I still need to get rid of "door open" message and 4 of 5 hold buttons working. Then i'll get validator working and see it I can get some new game chips.
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Oh ok, well you obviously have it connected now or it wouldn't boot at all.
I've never owned a slant top PE#, but I believe there's optics for the top door and a cherry switch for the front door.
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Working on door closed first. Cash door is secure, I had opened the lower door to get the MPU out, and didn't close the door properly to get the drop pin down enough to engage. Fixed. now on to buttons - you guys are good coaches!
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Hold Buttons - no luck yet. 1st button works (far left) and others do not. I have compared switch wiring to other posts of "working" machines and think switch wiring is correct. Have read other threads but that hasn't helped. Voltage on middle wire of all switches is about 8.7 - 8.8.
What am I missing? THX in advance.
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Here's the wiring diagram for it along with the color code chart. That should make it easier to track down the problem.
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Try using a short piece of wire as a jumper - and go between the lead on button 2 and the common on button 1 ?
did the self test work ?
Next use a meter between the common on button one and the common on button 2 - do you have continuity ? if not you have a break in the ground wire ?
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use an ohm meter to check the switches, easiest way to eliminate issues, common to N/O (normally open) no continuity, when switch depressed should have continuity. common to N/C (normally closed) continuity, when switch depressed no continuity.
probably the next switch in line is bad, the switches form a series circuit, usually where the switch stops working is where the problem is.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Tilt, diagram/color code was great, you are making an electrician out of me. Unfortunately, it seems to be wired correctly and no better results.
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Not sure you answered Jims question.
Using the meter - Do the buttons work ? open/closed when pressed.
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I have a slant top PE+ with a superboard. Those buttons can be a real pain. When I got it many years ago, all but one switch worked but the buttons were not pressing down far enough to engage them. DIRT DIRT and MORE DIRT. Clean all the gunk from the button assemblies after checking the actual switches themselves. Good luck with them.
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THANKS again! For $35 bucks on Sunday and 72 hours of your help I now have a fully functioning machine. After verifying correct wiring that you sent me, removed all 5 hold switches one at a time in series, tested and blew them off with compressed air, used my meter for continuity, and one at a time got them back up and running. You guys are making me look a lot smarter to my wife than I really am! Still have to upgrade it to what games I want to run and get bill verifier running (for when my golf buddies come out), but I really am a thankful happy camper!
5 STARS!
PS: I know it ain't fixed forever.
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BTW, I can't believe how much stronger the monitor is getting, what a surprise.
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$35 + 72hrs x $110 = $7955, not bad for a 30yr old machine.
Where do we send the bill :rotfl:
There is a reason that Casinos cycle out their older platforms.....
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For me "PRICELESS". thx. Next to resolve is game chips. As far as I can tell, this machine only has 9/5 Jacks or better. According to the posts, I have a "superboard" capable of multiple games. To make me real happy, I would like to get the chips to configure Janck or Better, Double Down, and Blackjack, and whatever may come with that.
First off, how can I tell if Jacks or Better is the only game available on this machine?
Following that, hao and can I upgrade the game chips to get what I want?
And later, I need to upgrade the BV - so far it only accepts singles and I really suspect a chip will bring it into 21st century.
Attached is a pic of my board.
Any enlightenment is appreciated.
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I am going to refer you to the NLG home page - bottom right you can find Ricks FAQ.
Within Ricks FAQ - you will find the IGT game bible.
You can pick any theme you want and order the right chips.
Your chips will have a number on them that correspond to the theme.
There are several multi-game sets to choose from (all poker sets).
What you get with this is a menu button that allows you to change the game.
With reference to your current chipset ...... No menu button = single game.
You can also get a wing board - that allows you to put 5 games chips of your choice on the wing board.
The Cavet on this is that the games must all share the same data chip and same graphics chips.
This limits you to some limiting parameters.
One of our members has built an extensive spreadsheet cataloging all the perms and combs of this.
Its in the download folder for contributing members.
A chipset is 8 chips. 6 graphics chips and a program and data chip.
You specifically mentioned blackjack - unfortunately this game is a standard game and not a superboard game.
A standard game still works with a superboard but there is no data chips with the standard games (7 chips not 8).
This makes it incompatible with the Wingboard so you have to run it as a standalone game.
As a FYI many standard games were made into superboard games but not blackjack.
There are also video slot games that match the S+ but honestly they are pretty sad looking (1980's graphics).
Personally I hate popping out 8 chips to do a game change - so I have 5 different boards each loaded with a different theme.
15seconds to swap MPU board vs 20 min of being careful and still risk bending pins.
A couple of the boards I have are the older standard boards as I got them cheap and loaded up a theme on them, but this is not required as all games run on a superboard.
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Great job, congratulations! :applause:
Here's a document that shows 8 sets of multi-poker and the games/paytable % for each. You can't mix and match them, they come in the sets you see. You can do some mixing and matching of single games if you have a wingboard, but they're pretty tough to find anymore. Double Bonus Poker and Deuces Wild are two of my favorites so I put a XM00001P set on my superboard. That has paytables just over 100% for those two games.
The tricky part is the CAPX chip. They're obsolete and if you can find them, most programmers can't program them. There was a member here who made an adapter that allowed you to use a more readily available EPROM instead of the CAPX PROM. You can find some information on it on the old site here : http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1391.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1391.0)
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FYI on the monitor looking better. The caps need replaced, some day.
Edit: maybe the sooner the better. :yes:
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I am shocked that the monitor came back so well! On a scale of 1 to 10 i'll call it almost an 8!
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Monitor up to 95%, BV takes 1's, 20's, and old 100's - that is good enough for me. Now I want to convert to MULTIPOKER. I read up on using a wingboard, but I think changing out game & data chip (5 games) will make me very happy and be easier. The other option is to try and fins a working superboard with MULTIPOKER.
If I change out chips, do I just have to change the data and program chips to accomplish this? Are complete boards very available?
THX a bunch for your help.
What a difference a week makes:
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You can post a WTB for PE+ boards they are moderately available.
WIngboards are a rarety.
Going from your current theme to a multi-game set you need to change all 8 chips.
Per your actual request - if you reach out to the dealers on this forum they will likely sell you the game board and install the chips for you.
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You already have a superboard. All you need is the multipoker game set.