New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: jonbbrew on April 24, 2022, 02:08:31 PM
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Hello all,
For several years i have tried to add a bar top type video poker machine to my collection for future addition into a bar for my man cave. Several deals did not work out but have run across this one. Can you help me with a few things as maybe i am not even posting in the correct space.
1. What type or model machine is this so i can narrow help searches.
2. value as is with broken glass and battery error
3. what is the typical battery error message really saying and how do i fix it? Is it like slots where the old batter needs to be replace with new versions? or?
Thanks!
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It's an IGT Player's Edge. Plus models have an integrated bill validator. Battery is easy to change if you can use a soldering iron, glass isn't real difficult either. It's probably worth between $100 - $200 as is. There's not a lot of love for bartops or slantops and many get parted out because of it.
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It's an IGT Player's Edge. Plus models have an integrated bill validator. Battery is easy to change if you can use a soldering iron, glass isn't real difficult either. It's probably worth between $100 - $200 as is. There's not a lot of love for bartops or slantops and many get parted out because of it.
Thanks....what battery would it need? And where can i get the glass or is it just a basic glass from a window/door shop?
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Here's one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/124432063283 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/124432063283)
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It's an IGT Player's Edge. Plus models have an integrated bill validator.
This is not a correct statement. I own two PE+ bartop machines like the one pictured and neither has an embedded bill validator.
The difference between the PE and PE+ is the circuit boards, software, and some hardware. There are plenty of PE+ machines that did not ship with bill validators.
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Thanks for the correction. Guess it's like the S series slots, if it doesn't have a BV you have to look "under the hood" to see if it's a PE or PE+ then?
OP, I'm sure any decent glass shop could cut you a piece for it.
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Yes, that's a fair comparison -- the early S+ machines didn't have bill validators but were still S+.
The graphics are slightly different on the PE (non-plus) too. As such, I'm fairly certain that the one pictured by the OP is a PE+.
Agreed that getting replacement glass should be a trivial and inexpensive venture.
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The presence of a validator will indicate that the machine is a S+ or PE+
Early models of both did not have validators and some later got retrofitted with side car validators.
Easy to tell the difference by looking at the MPU boards.
The software (chips) from an S and PE can be used with the plus models but not the other way around.
Lots of support for plus models, chips, wide variety of themes/games, lots of glass available - just check with any of the vendors on our home page. The same glass would fit the non plus models but you will be hard pressed to find the software as readily.
Anything can be repaired on these but the things to watch for when purchasing is a good CRT screen. You can buy a LCD replacement but that will run you close to $400 when you add in shipping. A regular LCD won’t work as the Color’s get inverted. The second is the coin elevator. Only bar tops and slant tops have them. Not easy to change from quarters to dollars or vice versa and the .944 tokens which are so very close to a quarter get jammed. So get the denomination you want up front and make sure the elevator is is in good working order as jams which happen frequently when things are bent are a major b*t*ch to deal with.
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Thanks all,
Any good info on where to get more of these as i probably would want at least two in my bar. Been searching on Craigslist etc, but seems they are hard to find easily.
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Try calling any of the vendors on our home page, and you might also give Scotty a call at the Laughlin NewLifeGames shop.
Often the slot dealers pass on these (bars and slants) if given the choice as they are not for everyone, but they may have them as they tend to buy pallets of equipment from the casinos and may not have the choice and their parts can be used in other non working platforms.
Craigs list/Flea bay would be a home enthusiast looking to unload his toys where as a bar top would be a built in and not flipped like other coin-op equipment.
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Thanks for the correction. Guess it's like the S series slots, if it doesn't have a BV you have to look "under the hood" to see if it's a PE or PE+ then?
OP, I'm sure any decent glass shop could cut you a piece for it.
Any picture samples to help me learn and identify the difference between a PE or PE+?
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Any picture samples to help me learn and identify the difference between a PE or PE+?
There are pictures of the PE+ standard and superboards in a sticky FAQ post in this category. If your MPU board matches one of those, you have a PE+.
Link: https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=21442.0
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Any picture samples to help me learn and identify the difference between a PE or PE+?
There are pictures of the PE+ standard and superboards in a sticky FAQ post in this category. If your MPU board matches one of those, you have a PE+.
Link: https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=21442.0
AWESOME! Thank you!
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Thanks all. Battery change and some reset process and fired up perfectly. Buttons are pretty sticky but i can try to clean them. Would like to possibly replace or make they more bright or white when lit. Anyone have buttons, etc??
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Pop the button caps off and clean them, and the insert. You can also pull the bulbs from the top. You will be amazed at how much they brighten up.
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Pop the button caps off and clean them, and the insert. You can also pull the bulbs from the top. You will be amazed at how much they brighten up.
Thanks. So i dont break these old buttons, are the old caps the same as the clear portion? or?
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I haven’t pulled a cap on a slant top but the buttons on an upright have clear caps with a white insert. If you pry gently from one side, pushing into the cap, the tab on that side will push in and allow that side to pop up. This is where the word finesse is vital! I use the blade on my pocket knife, it both pushes the tab in and grips the side of the plastic to pop it up. I am only guessing the rectangle buttons are the same as the square ones. Point being, you don’t have to remove the buttons from below to clean them.
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I haven’t pulled a cap on a slant top but the buttons on an upright have clear caps with a white insert. If you pry gently from one side, pushing into the cap, the tab on that side will push in and allow that side to pop up. This is where the word finesse is vital! I use the blade on my pocket knife, it both pushes the tab in and grips the side of the plastic to pop it up. I am only guessing the rectangle buttons are the same as the square ones. Point being, you don’t have to remove the buttons from below to clean them.
Thanks i will give that a go a little later today. I appreciate it.