IGT Double Diamond - Need some help please!

[Jzeron]

I have acquired this IGT.  The unit turns on, lights up, wheels spin in the initialization sequence, but LED display does not light up, no sound, no game play ...

Image 1 - Shows inside the unit with reels taken out.

The nameplate shows the following model and manufacture information:
Serial Number: 270239
Model Number: B 5133C
Date Manufactured: 3/92

Note the location of the LED display integrated with the bill validator / cash box ... this doesn't seem typical, I'm not able to easily find information about this configuration ....

Question - can someone verify if this is an IGT S+ or S2000 [EDIT: This appears to be S+ admin please move to correct forum / sorry! ]?  What kind of configuration is this with the cashbox integrated with the display?

Image 2 - explains why there is no sound, the amplifier board and speaker is missing.   There is a hole on the right hand top of the machine, for the speaker I'm assuming.  Can someone tell me if what board / speaker I am missing - AND PM me if you have one for sale!!

Image 3 - shows the cpu board.  Note the volume adjuster on top.

Image 4 - the led display integrated with bill validator - top part with 7-segment LCDs is not working.

Image 5 - the bill validator has a name and identifier on the side "bill insider tm" number 70703-106017.

There is no cash box - just validator and bottom flat tray which I'm assuming is where you would insert or place the cash box into (on top of).  There is a female db9 serial connector exposed on this plate (guessing goes to the bill transporter - still learning slot terminology so please forgive and correct me if I said that wrong).  See picture in next post (I'm only allowed to post 5 images at a time on this forum).  There is a db25 that plugs into the back of this unit, with cable that connects to the backplane, and cpu board.

I need help with more information about this specific make and model, and help identifying what specific parts are missing that I need to find, and any advice on the road ahead to get her running again!   

[Jzeron]

here is the top view of the bill validator / with integrated led display ( note I have the flat metal plat that covers the electronics, but missing the cashbox and ?? )

Note: the bottom of this unit LEDs do light up and say "INSERT BILL" but they are the only LEDs that are lighting up.  The 7-segment LEDs above do not light up...

[Jzeron]

Here is more information!

The candles on top light up when door open, when door close candles go out - so guessing the door optics are working! 

The reels when powered on are holding their position! 

The three fuses are good! 

I took apart the display and found a broken flat cable (see picture below).  I fixed by hard wiring, matching the flat cable orientation that it was previously in.  (hope that's the right orientation!).

I got a flicker of of the seven segment LEDs to light, just for a second, then went dark.

I measured C6 on the LED display board getting 14 VDC.  I read of the the senior members advice - you can fix anything by replacing the electrolytic capacitors so I replaced C6 with a new capacitor.

Still the LED Display is not turning on.  Just the bottom block LEDs that flash the "insert bill" work / flashing - not the top display.

I'm not sure what's going on here ... but I feel like I'm getting close to finding the underlying issue why the 7-seg LED display is not working.  I might have to look farther downstream... 


pictures: first pic is the broken flat ribbon cable - pic 2 and 3 are after re-wire, but still not working... 

[Stayouttadabunker]

Can you tell me something?
The end connections of the ribbon cable.
Are they only utilizing 7-pins in the blue housings?
Anyways, what I'm getting at is that you could probably just make a 7-wire harness, and solder wiring directly to each pin?
Maybe that'll help you get your display working again?
One thing for sure, nobody has these parts, and that bill acceptor most likely will only take small headed outdated older bills.

[Jzeron]

Hi Stayouttadabunker,

Thank you for your help!! The end connections of the ribbon cable were only using 7 out of the 8 pins (of which I first thought there must be another broken wire, other than the obviously broken wires where the cable was torn).  By your comment, it sounds like only 7-pins are utilized.  ( I might need to find a schematic )

In the pictures in the post above ( pic 2 and 3 ) is my current solder job.  I soldered wire to all 8 contacts between the two boards.  Still no display ...

But are you suggesting creating a wire harness from MPU board / backplane directly to the blue housing?  hmmm ... that might be a good idea 

 I need to get my hands on a schematic so I can verify the connections / pinout to the MPU board / backplane ... I recall seeing something in the NLG File System)... 

[Stayouttadabunker]

Unfortunately, I don't think you'll find any schematic for that bill acceptor here.
Also, when you stated that the display flickered and then went dark, I didn't realize that you already tried to make a harness without knowing exactly where the wiring should be.
I have to say that display is probably now toast.
Because of the age of that bill acceptor, now is a good time to change up your cabinet configuration to what IGT did probably in their next revision.
They re-located the bill acceptor to below the reel shelf and made an opening on the door for the bill entranceway.
However, IGT may of not had the cashbox mounting screw pegs ready in this cabinet version, for that change.
If not, then I would have to say that this machine may not be able to be saved unless someone has parts for it.
I'm going to refer you to NLG member Jim of Midwest slots.
His phone number is up on the homepage in the vendors listings.
He may or may not have parts for you.
Give him a call...tell him I sent ya.

[jay]

Would a 7 segment display not use 7 wires (one for each segment) plus a ground ? For a total of 8 pins

[lookes]

Would a 7 segment display not use 7 wires (one for each segment) plus a ground ? For a total of 8 pins

They are actually pretty complicated. They take a serial signal from the MPU and assemble it into voltages to light the LED segments. There is actually only one digit on at a time. They are scanned at a high rate but you can see it if you move your eyes fast.

I agree with Bunker. The flicker doesn't sound good.

[Jzeron]

I found something of a schematic for the display board (https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=2338 page 39) that gives some hints.  At least confirms that the connection to the display board consists of power and serial connection from the MPU (like lookes said).

As parts are pretty rare for this unit - I guess I got a couple options:

 (1) I think I'll give Jim a call per, Bunker's recommendation, in case he has a spare ... (thanks for the referral to Jim, Bunker!)

 (2) I still need to trace the signals back to to the MPU and ensure there is good continuity and that they are going to the right pins on the MPU / backplane

 (3) If needed, I can replace any bad components on the board ... but hoping don't have to go this route!


For #2 I'm still searching for the correct schematic.

The image below is where the cable to the bill validator / display plugs into the MPU / backplane.

I don't know if the pinout is correct (maybe something off here?), and if it going to the correct socket.

[Stayouttadabunker]

This is a pretty old drawing I had in my files.
It's the IGT S+ Motherboard header drawing.
It only shows that you have the bill acceptor harness plugged into the correct header - the pinouts of that header connection would be on a schematic drawing.

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[Jzeron]

That diagram was super helpful, Bunker - thank you!  It led me down a road to see if I could verify the pin signals on J6.

On Page 34 and 35 of S+ Schematics found in the NLG Filesystem: https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=4442

The J6 pinout certainly goes to the Bill Acceptor:

Pin 1: Bill Acceptor Out
Pin 2: Bill Acceptor In
Pin 3: +VB
Pin 4: B Ground
Pin 5: 24 VAC Return
Pin 6: 24 VAC Hot

But ... there is no signal in /out for Display on J6 ...

According the the schematic (page 35) the Display out signal is on J1 pin 19.

I haven't got my multi-meter out (will later tonight), but I'm thinking there is likely no signal going to the 7 seg Display ... and it makes sense, the signal for the bill validator wouldn't both carry logic for the bill validator and the display ... that would be a single point of failure to the display which is important for tilt codes, and would not be a great design.

So I think I have my next lead where to look into next... 

[Jim]

What you have is a Western Money System after market bill unit. there should be a five pin connector tucked up under the button panel somewhere, this was typically used with the type display you have or the long version with display mounted along the bottom reel glass.
the signals you need come out of cpu J-1, route up to P-203 ( third one from left on top of the cpu metal housing) P-203 will terminate into J-60 which is the five pin connector.
J-60 pin outs,  pin1= DDO, pin 2=DCLK, pin3=STB1, pin4=+VB, pin5=BGND.

these can be found elsewhere , if you can't find J-60.
they would be available at  J-14 on the motherboard, pin1=BGND, solid green wire pin2= +VB,red/black tracer pin4=DDO, grey/blue tracer  pin5=DCLK , grey/violet tracer
STB1 is only available at pin 18, P-203, solid grey wire.

you can use what you have and try to get the display working, or you can remove all the western money system stuff, mount the display to its normal place using their mounting or replace the glass and install a long display panel.

first and foremost you must locate J-60, then you can remove the pig tail and connect to the existing connector.
then decide what you want to do.

I should have all the parts you would need, have the glass, and either display.

Hope this helps

Jim

[Jim]

You have a S+ machine,  speaker is mounted in the bottom of the door, left side as you look at it, only a speaker and two wires going to it!

Jim

[Jzeron]

Thank you, Jim!!!  This is exactly the information I needed!  I really appreciate the time you took to explain and provide the level of detail. 

I'll let you know how it goes!

[Jzeron]

Well I have some good news and some not so good news 

Good news:
  1) I found the pigtail that Jim was talking about and there was actually an existing cable there connecting to the aftermarket bv / display that I didn't notice previously!
  2) I verified continuity from the pigtail connector to the connector on the display board, verified voltage at the display board
  3) I was able to throw some coins in the machine and get it to spin - and the speaker works!

Not so good:
 1) The display is still not lighting up - I'm thinking the board must be bad.
 2) I found the hopper is missing the coin out optic - only spit out a few coins before tilt ( but at least it showing good signs to be in working order otherwise )

Next steps:
Shopping for parts I need to get her running again.

[Stayouttadabunker]

I'm pretty sure Jim would have a display for you and a long reel glass.
From here, I can't tell if you would need a different reel shelf or not.

I can see that the top rear-facing pin behind the hopper plug doesn't have anything connected to it.
That's one of the pins needed for the hopper optic wiring. Offhand, I think 3 wires?
He may also have a hopper optic you need too.

I don't know if you know this or not, but if you press the Cashout/Credit button on the deck once, it makes all wins accumulate onto the display - rather than spit out coins for every single win.
You can play the game that way for now until you get a proper hopper optic installed.
For now, just don't hit the cashout button again, or the hopper will tilt because it cannot complete the payout without working optics.

[Jzeron]

Good news to share, we can officially close this post 

Here's what happened since the last post (in case it's helpful to someone else someday):

Jim had an original display and the coin out sensor that I needed for the hopper.  To use the original display, I would need to replace the current glass that covers 3/4 of the machine width, to one that covers the entire width.  Unfortunately Jim did not have the glass I would need to use the original display.

Jim help me out over phone and we text messaged back and forth for awhile until we figured out a schematic for the after market display board I had.  Good times! 

I hardwired the aftermarket display board to the pigtail where the original type display would normally plug into.  My aftermarket display board still did not light up.

I verified the pigtail / wire harness to the mother board.  All good.  I verified the mother board had no bad traces.  I verified the power.  All good.  All signs were pointing to a bad display board.

To build out a schematic for this aftermarket display board - we basically traced the signals at the connector terminals on the display board to pins on the ICs, then looked up the data sheet for the ICs to determine the expected signal.  The schematic is attached for reference.

I looked up the parts on Digikey ... of course all of the ICs were obsolete, but luckily most (not all) had direct substitutions available.

I ordered the replacement chips that I could.  They were only a few dollars plus shipping.

At the same time, I put in an order with Jim (MIDWEST SLOTS) for an original display and the coin out sensor I needed. I wasn't entirely sure if the problem was with the mother board or with the aftermarket display.  Having a known working display would help me verify if the mother board was good, and my backup plan in case I couldn't get the aftermarket working.  The parts from Jim arrived within the week.  I plugged in the display and it lit up!  Great - the mother board is good!

I then installed the coin out sensor, and was in business!  The machine paid out its winnings that were stored in memory.  Then a couple more issues raised their heads 

The coin comparator rake started buzzing - a common issue according to multiple posts on this site like this one: https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4564.msg24072#msg24072  I put in another order to DigiKey for 220 micro farad @ 35 vdc.  As a temporary fix - I unplugged the cc solenoid.

Great - back in business, without the buzzing! Let's put some coins in! Everytime I hit a win - I was getting an additional coin on payout ... more reading on the forums ... another classic issue - the hopper brake was missing a spring, so I used a spring out of a click pen as suggested!

I'm kind of thankful for these issues - they were really helping me become more familiar with how the machine works, especially reading others posts to find hints to problems and their solutions.

Today the replacement ICs for the aftermarket display arrived in the mail.  One at a time I removed ICs on the aftermarket display board and replace with the new IC, then plugged in the display board to the machine.  On the 3rd try - with replacement of the U7 (MULTIVIBRATOR 100NS) chip - the display lit up!!
 
I put the aftermarket display / bill validator assembly back together.  We're 100% up and running!  Thanks for everyone's help!