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Author Topic: Help Please! Sigma 5 Wheel Stuck in “Test Mode”… Model: W4215 1991 With Photos…  (Read 1437 times)

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Offline Finny

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If I actually had hair, I would have ripped it all out buy now! I’ve been a tech for years but this one is quite challenging to say the least.  :banghead:

After much research, there isn’t really much info or resources available for this model. I would say it’s a fairly rare machine.

Im seeking out the advice of the experienced old school techs who would most likely sort this with their eyes shut… :) Your help will be much appreciated !!!

When I first acquired this machine, it was badly corroded, missing the counters and the 5 volt power supply. So everything was Cleaned, Chromed, 2 pac painted, LED’ed and reassembled. After viewing all the forums previous posts on models similar, I have tested all voltages, switches and connectors, etc…

In respect of the lost counters, I used 4 x 180 ohm and 1 x 100 ohm as a dummy load. The physical counters are not required for home use. This was successfully done by another member of the forum. Cheers for the tip!

The last issue is the Comparitor. A CC-16 unit. I found it with the power supply cut and tied back. I assumed the machine may have been working before and left it as it was. It’s got me thinking now it may be the culprit. So I hooked up power and discovered it was not only dead but molested inside. Can this device be omitted and bypassed? Coins still register and dump into the hopper. Can this device cause the machine to stay locked in TEST mode? Also, no obvious errors generated whilst Comparitor powered down…

I have also tried to reset and default the machine from methods listed from all the Sigma manuals, which have failed to work. So this is the unorthodox method I used to get the machine to reset and clear in a 2 step order…

(1) Powered down via plug, Short out the Super Cap. Lock up front door. Plug in power. Clear RAM error via Key reset. Note: Game activates with ‘Tilt’ and power up fault indication in window ‘10’. Drop a coin and start a game. All errors in window ‘10’ cleared. Everything else operates normally except the ‘TEST’ message alternating over the red LED display, no coin payout function, a fault light on the tree topper and the dreaded ‘Tilt’ displayed next to the coin slot.

Next…

(2) Power down again, move one dip switch. Lock up door. Power up. Clear DIP Switch error via ‘Key Reset’. Note: ‘Tilt’ error and Red tree topper light cleared. Machine functions in the same manner without any errors displayed. Except for one thing… Still stuck in ‘TEST’ mode… :(

In this TEST mode, all accounting, error logging and coin payouts are deactivated.

My speculation, as it’s an early Japanese model built in 1991, I think there may be another sneaky ‘reset’ combination or method that wasn’t carried through to the newer models. It would be much appreciated if anyone can advise a theory or method to help solve this issue!!! Im open to all suggestions…

I can also post up more photos if requested…

Please see all photos below:
Finny's Pinnys pinball restoration
https://waynefinn.wordpress.com/

Offline Sunrise Side

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The three key switches on the side, is one of them stuck in a closed or open position? Meter show they are working properly? Are all 3  N.O. type or N.C. If they are different are the wires connected to the proper switches ?  Is the test button and door switch  inside the machine wired up correctly? Or the switch on the test button is bad? Are the correct wires connected to the test switch or did the test wires get connected to the wrong switch?
« Last Edit: July 19, 2022, 12:52:28 PM by Sunrise Side »

Offline Finny

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Thank’s for the quick response Sunrise Side… All 3 key switches are brand new in the N.O position without a key and were tested before installation. They all run a common ground. Each one works under test in respect of their function, Call back last game, reels spin back. Meters: including security counts works, Reset: ram, dip switches etc... works…

In regards to the internal 3 switches located in the same area near the hinge, the ‘main door open & shut’ corresponds with an audio alarm and the correct window ‘10’ indicator.

All switches have one ground and a single wire circut on each input. I had seen a 3 wire version in another models schematics so I searched around for any lost cables that may appear to be without a home, none there…

The test switch works and all test functions work as well.

The mother board door also functions and corresponds with an audio alarm and the correct window ‘10’ indicator as well…

I was just speaking to a retired tech who mentioned that any machine decommissioned from a licensed venue, this was going back  years ago… must be disabled by law not to function for gambling proposes, which is a board term and vague to say the least. I live in Australia and the laws are strict regarding these machines sales and use etc... Perhaps some Aussies can chime in if they know anything about it?

Which has further got me thinking about, Could this machine have been a victim of this regulation? Has it been altered not to function somehow…??? ‘TEST’ mode would be the perfect solution in this situation… This may also explain why the Comparitor was disconnected and damaged on purpose…

The eprom looks original and I don’t think a tech would ‘code out’ the game application without the source code… OK, so I’m now going to investigate the main logic for damage or mods… Some images attached as well...
Finny's Pinnys pinball restoration
https://waynefinn.wordpress.com/

Offline Chris-socal

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I am not an expert and your machine is a few years newer than mine but looks very similar. In reviewing the manual in the NLG file system there are several pages dedicated to the test function. They refer to  test button but I don’t recall seeing one on my machine. The manual covers slots and poker machines so you have to read through a lot of pages to get to the test functions on reel slots.
I have attached the first page from the test portion of the manual. Maybe this will trigger some ideas.

Are you positive the backup battery or capacitor is good? The Sigma games will not function with a dead battery.

Regarding the 3 switches on the side, one of my 3 came from the wire loom going to the power supplies. I don’t know why, they all test with continuity as being the same ground.

Chris

 

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