New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: mwade109 on August 08, 2023, 03:27:18 PM
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I got this S machine to take a look at and I have to admit, now that I am old, I forget a lot of the S S+ stuff. The machine does nothing but a continuous two tone ding through the speaker, does not matter if door is open or closed, no change. I seem to remember that being a door open sound but don't really remember and can't find any videos of this version S+ machines on youtube to check. That put me in the direction of the door optics maybe being bad but after trying a known good set it does the same. The battery on the main board is dead, when ahead and replaced that just to rule it out. The candle is not lit at all but that could always be a bulb, hadn't checked that. As you can see in the picture the game is on but nothing in the displays. Any ideas?
My other question, does the S use the same clear chip as the S+?
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Your machine is a S plus (no BV) not S. Check for the typical burned connector that sends power to the MB at J8.
Also check that your connection for the meters is not plugged into the wrong connector.
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Thanks, I will check that in the morning.
I thought I remember once being told that S had the mainboard on the left and S+ had it in the back, thats what I was going by. Been a long time since I had anything to do with s or s+ and now I just picked up a couple slant tops that are one or the other, haven't had time to look at them yet.
ANyway, will report my findings tomorrow. The connection for the meters should not be plugged into the wrong place as they were working according to the owner and he did not go into it at all but I will check the connections for that.
Your machine is a S plus (no BV) not S. Check for the typical burned connector that sends power to the MB at J8.
Also check that your connection for the meters is not plugged into the wrong connector.
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IGT S+'s have cabinet versions that have the MPU located BOTH on the left-hand side AND back walls.
The older S+'s had the MPU located on the left wall and power supply in the back.
Later, when the bill validators became an option, they designed a power supply box and that went underneath the cash box area.
The S+ MPU always plugged into a floor mounted motherboard, while the straight "S" MPU plugs into a wiring harness.
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Thanks, I edited the post to reflect it is actually a S+
IGT S+'s have cabinet versions that have the MPU located BOTH on the left-hand side AND back walls.
The olderS+'s had the MPU located on the left wall and power supply in the back.
Later, when the bill validators became an option, they designed a power supply box and that went underneath the cash box area.
The S+ MPU always plugged into a floor mounted motherboard, while the straight "S" MPU plugs into a wiring harness.
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On a normally operating machine, the only thing that would result in a continuous repeating tone would be the jackpot lockup sound. To turn that off you would turn the jackpot reset key switch on the side of the machine once and release it.
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UPDATE: There is no indication whatsoever that J8 has ever heated up, and contacts are clean.
The meters plug is plugged in correctly where you have noted on your picture.
I have reseated all the connectors that I could find.
Can you tell me, on this type S+, does the display on the door turn off when the door is open?
Your machine is a S plus (no BV) not S. Check for the typical burned connector that sends power to the MB at J8.
Also check that your connection for the meters is not plugged into the wrong connector.
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Yes it does. Did you turn reset key as Knagl suggested (with the door closed).
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Yes, I have tried the reset key with the door open and closed, no results. I tested the actual reset switch w/multimeter, switch works fine.
I have tried the small white button both quickly and holding it in and nothing changes.
Yes it does. Did you turn reset key as Knagl suggested (with the door closed).
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I'd check the candle light bulbs and connections to make sure they're good. If they are good, but not blinking then you likely have a MPU problem.
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Will do that shortly. I am still not convinced that it is seeing the door as being opened/closed. I tried a set of optics I had laying around and there was no change but I cant say for sure they work. I had made a bypass for testing in the past but cant find it. I have this instruction but I assume it is for a s2000 as the harness colors do not match what the harness here has. The instructions all pertain to the harness color, not the optic wire colors. Can you maybe tell? I'm not going to use a cherry switch si it will be a 'door closed only' test piece. My door harness colors are green & black w/purple strips and my cabinet harness is red & green. Can you direct me on this test piece? This picture is what I am going by.
I'd check the candle light bulbs and connections to make sure they're good. If they are good, but not blinking then you likely have a MPU problem.
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I've never bypassed the door optics on a S+ or S2000 so I don't know. Bunker or someone can answer that for you I'm sure.
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Anyone have a tested S+ Mainboard at a affordable price? I figured I would test with the two S+ slant tops I just got recently only to find out the batteries exploded in both of them, and because they are mounted vertically, the acid ran all the way down the board, on one of them killing the reel chip and holder, the other one hitting on transistors along the way. Not the outcome I was looking for. So, now I need a mpu to test with, although I'd still like to try bypassing the optics.
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....I have this instruction but I assume it is for a s2000 as the harness colors do not match what the harness here has...
I'm the one that drew that door optics bypass drawing years ago for an IGT S2000.
There's a couple of ways to bypass an S+.
I can easily help you with that.
Please, allow me to ask you, are proficient with soldering?
And, would you have any cherry, rocker, or toggle switches laying around?
Really, probably should wait until you get a working MPU.
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Ok, so here is where it stands.
I found a S+ board stuffed away and went ahead and set it up with the known working chips from my 10x Pay slant top. Worked great in the slant top.
Went ahead and tried the setup in the upright I've been having the problems with, still nothing on the display but the ding-ding was gone (with the 10x chips installed). So, I went ahead and tried the upright chips into my slant top and the display went blank, just like the upright but it was not making any ding ding.
Kinda puzzling.
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Pull out the multimeter.
You need to check the voltages - as RB suggested.
What voltages are coming out of your power supply-to-the-power-connector in Reply#1?
Are the reels "stiff" when powered up?
Wiggle that power Molex connector while watching the display.
See if the display comes on at all, but also watch the reel baskets.
They should act like there's life somewhere, as you're wiggling the plug up an down. side to side.
If not, I'd swap power supply boxes between cabinets to chase down the problem.
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Not sure where to test for the power and I cannot swap the power supply out as my other s+ because it is a slant top.
This machine does not have a simple replaceable power supply that I can see, it is more of a open transformer thing that I can see. (pics)
There is no resistance on the reels at any time, not when first starting or after it has been on a bit.
I can wiggle and reseat any of the connectors but never see anything on the display.
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Okay, you have the older model power supply unit that goes in the rear of the cabinet.
On the left-hand side of the power supply's transformer is a white 6-pin Molex plug that goes to the motheboard at location [J8].
This was the connector I wanted you to wiggle upwards to see if the display comes on or the reels get stiff.
Those female pins inside the Molex connector plug are where you need to get the voltages from.
I have red arrows pointing to the power Molex plug in one of your photos below.
Click on any photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
If there aren't any voltages on the pins, check the three fuses above the transfomer.
Top to bottom...>>>
6A
8A
6A
Quick-blow fuses only.
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Here are the results from voltage tests:
Pin
1 = 12.27
2
3 = 7.10
4 = 8.41
5 = 24.55
6
All three fuses are tested good, not with my old eyes but rang out with the multimeter.
Ideas?
Okay, you have the older model power supply unit that goes in the rear of the cabinet.
On the left-hand side of the power supply's transformer is a white 6-pin Molex plug that goes to the motheboard at location [J8].
This was the connector I wanted you to wiggle upwards to see if the display comes on or the reels get stiff.
Those female pins inside the Molex connector plug are where you need to get the voltages from.
I have red arrows pointing to the power Molex plug in one of your photos below.
Click on any photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
If there aren't any voltages on the pins, check the three fuses above the transfomer.
Top to bottom...>>>
6A
8A
6A
Quick-blow fuses only.
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Anyone have any ideas?
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I would make a short video of your machine getting powered on.
Maybe someone will spot something.
It's free to download a video to youtube.
Once you do that, just send us the link to it.
The more you can show us, the better we can help you.
Did you ever check the candle bulbs, to see if they're any good?
There are candles codes that would help pinpoint the problem.
A couple of guys have asked you now...you don't have any spare bulbs?
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Yes, I checked the bulbs and they check out fine, and yes, I have many extra bulbs!
I have a couple new-ish mainboards coming in this week, had a new game and reel chip burned, when they come in I am going to get the door optics off my daily use PE+ Slant top and see what happens.
If none of these cure it, I will upload a video to my youtube channel by the end of the week and post the link.
Thanks
I would make a shot video of your machine getting powered on.
Maybe someone will spot something.
It's free to download a video to youtube.
Once you do that, just send us the link to it.
The more you can show us, the better we can help you.
Did you ever check the candle bulbs, to see if they're any good?
There are candles codes that would help pinpoint the problem.
A couple of guys have asked you now...you don't have any spare bulbs?
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Well... I might as well keep trying!
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Someone asked for me to post a link to a video, here it it:
https://youtu.be/XQnkhjy9SrI?si=MVCn5UcxUMut8Yvu
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Are the wires connected to the jackpot reset keyswitch?
Maybe pull out the MPU and take a picture of it.
Un-solder one side of the battery termainals and check what voltage it has left in it?
I'm wondering if the battery is so low it won't even show a code [12]?
It's possible that your main power power supply is shot.
You were missing some voltages on the pins...the reels shouldn't be "free-wheeling" as they are right now.
You could try wiggling that motherboard power Molex upwards on the pins - to see if you could get a better connection, even though it isn't browned out on the back of it.
Watch and see if the reels "get stiff" as you wiggle that Molex.
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Yes they are connected and I tested the switch with my multimeter. Tested good.
Are the wires connected to the jackpot reset keyswitch?
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Someone asked for me to post a link to a video, here it it:
https://youtu.be/XQnkhjy9SrI?si=MVCn5UcxUMut8Yvu
Thanks for the video. That is absolutely not a normal sound for an S+ machine to be making.
How does your MPU board look? Do you have a known good MPU board you can put in the machine to help troubleshoot with?
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I clipped this from previous post:
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"I found a S+ board stuffed away and went ahead and set it up with the known working chips from my 10x Pay slant top. Worked great in the slant top.
Went ahead and tried the setup in the upright I've been having the problems with, still nothing on the display but the ding-ding was gone (with the 10x chips installed). So, I went ahead and tried the upright chips into my slant top and the display went blank, just like the upright but it was not making any ding ding.
Kinda puzzling."
To add a little more to that, because this games chips made my slant top display go blank, I got a new set of reel/game chips and tried that, no ding ding, no display, no action.
How does your MPU board look? Do you have a known good MPU board you can put in the machine to help troubleshoot with?
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I noticed that you didn't come back.
Were you able to solve this dinging noise?
Ater re-reading everything, I would try swapping out the motherboard, MPU and chips.
There's really nothing else to try?
Oh...and to answer your other question about bypassing the door optics.
It's very quite simple to do with about a 3 foot length of wire.
Undo the 2-pin Molex connector to the door emitter optic.
Push one end of your bypass wire into the female pin hole for the PURPLE w/BLACK striped wire.
On the cabinet-side reciever optic, undo that 2-pin Molex connector as well.
Push the other end of your jumper wire into the female pin hole for the RED wire.
Your MPU should now see the door as "closed".
Proof of this will be the LED light on the coin comparitor will turn ON.
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Hello, the game was sent to a temporary resting place in one of my storage units. I did try two different mpu boards and a newly burned set of chips and that did not cure it. I assume it is the power supply and until I come across one of these to test with the game is over there relaxing. It could be the motherboard but I'm sticking with powers supply.... for now!
Thanks for your info
-mike
I noticed that you didn't come back.
Were you able to solve this dinging noise?
Ater re-reading everything, I would try swapping out the motherboard, MPU and chips.
There's really nothing else to try?
Oh...and to answer your other question about bypassing the door optics.
It's very quite simple to do with about a 3 foot length of wire.
Undo the 2-pin Molex connector to the door emitter optic.
Push one end of your bypass wire into the female pin hole for the PURPLE w/BLACK striped wire.
On the cabinet-side reciever optic, undo that 2-pin Molex connector as well.
Push the other end of your jumper wire into the female pin hole for the RED wire.
Your MPU should now see the door as "closed".
Proof of this will be the LED light on the coin comparitor will turn ON.
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Keep an eye on this topic running Wade....has kind of the same problems as yours!
Here's a link to it...>>>
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=40805.msg215683#msg215683