New Life Games LLC
TITO - Ticket in Ticket Out, Slot Toppers, Stands and Add-on Accessories => Slot Toppers => Topic started by: Yoeddy1 on November 29, 2014, 12:03:46 PM
-
Hi guys,
Interesting issue. So I have had my new oval topper working like a champ in my 17" chop top Game King for the past week. I decided to try it out in my round top S2000 since I have another oval topper coming. Well, as luck would have it, in the S2000, the fluorescent bulb and candle works fine, but the chaser lights don't come on. I'm not really sure where to go from here. The molex connectors are the same in both machines. I also tried plugging into all of the PWR ports on the Netplex board. No change. Like I said, the topper is functional as the chaser lights work in the Game King. Is there a setting that I need to activate on the S2000? Is there another plug somewhere that this platform requires to run the LED ring?
Thanks,
Jason
-
Here a couple of photos of the current connections.
Jason
-
One more...
There are what appear to be 2 other ballast connections. Each has a green wire for ground and a pair of orange/black wires, and a pair of orange wires. They aren't connected to anything.
Thoughts?
Jason
-
And a photo of the distribution boards and connections.
-
Looks right even upside down. Check the connector inside the topper to the light ring PCB. Try a little finger pressure on each LED in the series to see if you have a bad connection on one.
-
Looks right even upside down. Check the connector inside the topper to the light ring PCB. Try a little finger pressure on each LED in the series to see if you have a bad connection on one.
Thanks a lot Ron. If I put the topper right back in the Game King, the LEDs work just fine. I'm seriously at a loss. In the Game King, there are a couple of 2 wire plugs going into a couple of power ports on the netplex board. In the s2000 there aren't any plugs occupying any of the 2 plug power ports. The wire colors are orange and black. I don't see any stray plugs. Thoughts?
Jason
-
Your S2000 has the older style harness in the top box. Power to the fan & flourescent light were not derived from the netplex board. Here is a pic of the only S2 I have with a topper. The black & orange wires go to the fan & flourescent. That should not make a difference in yours. How about posting a similar pic to mine (right side up this time) so I can see all connections.
-
Here is where my Topper connects on my S2000.
I even broke the tie wraps off ( As they need replaced anyway) to make sure that is the right places.
J4 on the Netplex board and unmarked connector on the connector going to the lower box
Hope this Helps
Don
-
The topper needs two voltages to operate properly. +25VDC for the fluorescent bulb, and +13VDC for the LED ring. Your fluorescent bulb works, so the +25VDC is good, but you may be missing the +13VDC for the ring. Check for it on J1 of your netplex board. It should be labeled, but if not, it's the Red& Black red wires. If it's there, then check for it at the connector going to the Topper. It's likely missing at one of those places since the topper works fine on your Game King. If it's missing at J1 you'll have to start tracing the cabling back.
-
Your S2000 has the older style harness in the top box. Power to the fan & flourescent light were not derived from the netplex board. Here is a pic of the only S2 I have with a topper. The black & orange wires go to the fan & flourescent. That should not make a difference in yours. How about posting a similar pic to mine (right side up this time) so I can see all connections.
Here you go Ron.
-
The topper needs two voltages to operate properly. +25VDC for the fluorescent bulb, and +13VDC for the LED ring. Your fluorescent bulb works, so the +25VDC is good, but you may be missing the +13VDC for the ring. Check for it on J1 of your netplex board. It should be labeled, but if not, it's the Red& Black red wires. If it's there, then check for it at the connector going to the Topper. It's likely missing at one of those places since the topper works fine on your Game King. If it's missing at J1 you'll have to start tracing the cabling back.
Cliff,
Ron and I walked through this for about 30 minutes and the connections seem to be correct. Seems like I might have an older wiring harness, but Ron seemed to think it shouldn't matter based on the connections and comparisons with other machines. How can I check to see if the 13v is at the plug that connects to the topper plug. Sorry, I'm not very good at using a multimeter if that's where this is heading, but I'll learn.
Jason
-
Jason,
You can use a 12V test light. Top left is 13V+, lower left is 25V+ both rights are ground. You can touch the 25V very quickly with the 12V test light. Bulb will be very bright & blow if connected too long. See pic.
-
I'll try it Ron. Is there a fuse somewhere that could be blown?
See here:
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=27473.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=27473.0)
Jason
-
The 1A fuse they're referring to in that thread is the power input fuse on the LED ring. Yours is good or it wouldn't work on the other machine. You can use a test light if you don't have a multimeter. If you have a multimeter set it to DC volts and a range setting greater than 13V (if it's not an autoranging meter). Put the black lead on the black wire with a red tracer on J1 of the netplex board and the red lead on the red wire on J1 and see what you have.
-
Yeah, this seems to be what I'm experiencing...
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=11729.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=11729.0)
Jason
-
Are there other components that use 13V in the S2000? I guess what I'm getting at is, would it be worthwhile swapping out the power supply from my Game King into my S2000?
Jason
-
Yeah, the MPU board, BV and other components do. If your power supply was missing +13V then the machine would not even boot. So you don't have +13V at J1 then?
-
Jason,
I have traced the wiring from the Y harness in the top that powers your netplex board. It plugs into J2 (lower left) on your mother board. If you have an enhanced mother board, check the 15 amp ATC fuses. The bottom fuse has a trace that leads to the J2 connector. If not enhanced, just be sure connection is good. If this all fails, try another mother board. As always, power down before attempting any of this.
-
The +13V that goes to J1 on the netplex power dist board comes from J7 on a non-enhanced motherboard according to the wiring diagram I'm looking at.
-
Yeah, the MPU board, BV and other components do. If your power supply was missing +13V then the machine would not even boot. So you don't have +13V at J1 then?
Using a continuity (light) tool, I get a reading for all power ports (black and orange wires). Red and black 13V nothing. At J1 I get a reading for the black and orange (25v) and black and red (to my audio amp), but nothing for 13v (other black and red wires).
Thoughts?
Jason
-
J1 on the mother board is power in from the power supply. If you don't have +13V there on the solid red, look at that PS, maybe try re-seating it. I would think however if you had no power there that some other components would be dead as well. There are 2 solid reds. Both dead?
-
What type of MPU do you have anyhow enhanced (1270) or legacy (502/4)? It makes a difference in the connector numbers. Here's the wiring from the motherboard to J1 on a legacy motherboard. It goes from J7 through the bulkhead connector J109 to J1 of your netplex/power distribution board. The +13VDC that you were seeing at your audio amp comes from J3 on the motherboard through the same J109 connector.
-
Tilt,
I've been on the phone with Jason & hopeful we found the problem. I clipped some zip ties. The 8 wires that connect to the Y harness go to J7 & J2 on the motherboard. Jason's J7 was disconnected. He's hooking everything back up & hopefully it is fixed. Waiting for him to call me back. Thanks for the diagram.
-
Ok great :wave: He should be good to go then soon.
-
Ron, Tilt, and all others that contributed to this thread...thank you so much for your help. Ron and I dug deep on this one. My continuity tool was lighting up on the ground pins and not on the hot pins. Completely incorrect in electrical theory, but yet, everything worked on my machine except for the 13V to the topper. End of all of it, we were thinking it was time to replace the motherboard. As we started comparing notes in our machines, I found a stray plug that Luxor had disconnected years ago and tucked way behind the cluster of wire connecting to the motherboard. J7 was empty on mine, but not on Ron's. Funny, my machine works great without it plugged in.
"Plug that mofo in!" LOL!!!
After getting everything put back together, and powering it back on, the chaser lights lit up and everything still works! For giggles, I decided to test continuity again and now, my testing tool lit up on the hot pins and not on the grounding pins like it did before. I've got nothing in terms of an explanation for that one. I'm just excited that it works!
Thanks again fellas! Top notch!
Jason
-
:congrats: :dancing_party: Enjoy!
-
Congrats, Glad you fixed it,
As I said before in a post that it never hurts to have a Digital Multimeter instead of a simple test lamp.
here is one for under $10. it is always useful to have around the toolbox
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009982PB6?psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009982PB6?psc=1)
You can find them even cheaper than that, but do yourself a favor and get a Multimeter or Voltmeter to have around.
-
Thanks Don. I agree. I have one, but in this case, I didn't end up using it since Ron and I were able to determine whether or not the pins were live or dead. I'm still bewildered by the fact that all worked fine without the J7 plug connected, and that the ground and hot pins on the netplex board, audio amp, etc., would change depending on whether or not the J7 plug was in or out. I'm stumped by it. I would love to hear Foster's take on this one.
Jason