New Life Games LLC
Arcade Games, Pinball, Crane Games, Redemption Games and Other Stuff => Arcade Games **Video** => Topic started by: maxwar on March 28, 2015, 08:03:43 PM
-
I had hinted about making this topic a couple weeks ago in the welcome forum!
I got carried away with other stuff and projects and only today did I start digging in the pile of electronics to see if I can salvage something.
I have a little bit of experience fixing electronics and games but only fixed one arcade board before, a NBA Jam. Culprit was a broken trace.
I am not an expert and am self learned but I am normally aware enough to not make things worse.
I run my arcade games with a Supergun and can quickly test Jamma boards but I currently have no mean to use non Jamma games outside of ordering or building adapters for them.
So lets see what I have in this box! All are mystery boards but I think I identified a few! ( Click on the pictures to enlarge! )
Any repair help, tips, or information regarding the boards that are not identified is highly welcome!
Mystery board N.1
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FZujZqOm.jpg&hash=308fb104d3a1daf0d72aa564159a3802beceb289)
Identification: Seta Aleck 64 Jamma board - Game most likely magical Tetris challenge!
Observation: Very dirty!! Two capacitors are missing on the right. Clearly ripped off, parts of the legs still showing. Mask rom on top left has rusty pins.
Plan: Replace the two caps and test. If non working, clean it and inspect further.
Mystery board N.2
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FYIlWYaf.jpg&hash=b47d1dc838a204e4e1ea240d4a307f3ff1c723ac)
Identification: Unknown, has all the Looks of a Jamma bootleg
Observation: Very dirty!! The connector is in a sorry state and corroded, looks like it was sanded in the past. Has remnants of wires soldered to an expansion port, possible shorts there. Through hole components look flattened.
Plan: Clean the connector, remove old wires and inspect through hole components for detached connection, fix if any. Then Test.
Mystery board N.3
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FbOB4qAx.jpg&hash=758ff04e0dbe97af301530441890a013d6a37c8d)
Identification: Unknown Hai Wei board
Observation: Looks like all the roms were removed. Evidences of earlier repairs ( Reflowed ASIC ) Possibly more missing chips.
Plan: Nothing unless I can Identify it. With parts missing not much I can do.
Mystery board N.4
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FHmFU1jE.jpg&hash=d2c9222a4a09fe16ba7251991cfbc86738e3d54b)
Identification: Unknown Nichibutsu board.
Observation: Rather clean and no obvious Damage. I suspect this to be a non jamma board.
Plan: Identify it
Mystery board N.5
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FCWJPcVq.jpg&hash=f04d88d601fe8bb9db01d5f16a184200408e5326)
Identification: Unknown Nichibutsu board.
Observation: Looks just like board 4 but has a battery, Rom numbers look like they follow from the first board. Quite intrigued by this pair. Rather clean and no obvious Damage.
Plan: Identify it
Mystery board N.6
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FO9g5E6n.jpg&hash=34edc793afc9f763ceb258b7657d700f70f2f101)
Identification: Data East board. Fighter's history Japan version.
Observation: Looks rather clean. No obvious damage.
Plan: Make a visual inspection then test.
Mystery board N.7
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FHvxCmFE.jpg&hash=01e4da76dcdaecd8e4dedd1ed57c689d8689a09a)
Identification: Psikyo board. Sengoku Ace (J)
Observation: Looks rather clean but for traces of hand reflowing on the Processor. Possibly the most valuable board of the lot so making this one work would be great.
Plan: Make a visual inspection then test.
Mystery board N.8
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FAL6XfjM.jpg&hash=c3cd976332eb28c93508603f078643464a6f8d22)
Identification: Unknown.
Observation: This little board is kind of cute. Does not look damaged but for a cap that is half thorn off. I do not think this is Jamma, does have a bootleg look to it.
Plan: Identify it, has the number AB-22B on it. No company name or anything. Does look kind of like a bootleg.
Mystery board N.9
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FyGodrkx.jpg&hash=67f9b7f56fce9edcaceff38248ea871e10b42aed)
Identification: Psikyo board. Strikers 1945 (J)
Observation: Another cool Psikyo game. Quite dirty but not clear evidence of damage or earlier work done one the board. The big reservoir capacitor looks crusty, replacing it won't be a luxury.
Plan: Make a visual inspection then test. Replace capacitors.
-
today when you can buy 60 in 1 boards so cheap why would anyone fix old boards 99% of games are remade on muti boards that sell so cheap
-
today when you can buy 60 in 1 boards so cheap why would anyone fix old boards 99% of games are remade on muti boards that sell so cheap
Nearly all Multi boards are using emulation just like Mame (and sometimes actually Mame). They very often are less accurate in recreating the original games than playing Mame on a PC. Also, original boards are much more valuable than a Multi to a collector.
-
Yep, emulation multiboards are hit and miss. They serve a purpose but personally I prefer using real boards! There is something magic about it!
Talking of magic, I Fixed The SENGOKU ACE Board! :propeller:
Had two broken solder joints.
One under this big capacitor. After repairing it the board worked but had some graphical corruption.
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FJq5ueCz.jpg&hash=06472070ce3360552c617722ea06c30b12175e86)
I could change and sometimes reduce or remove the graphical corruption but pressing on the board so I knew it was a cold solder joint somewhere.
Finally found the culprit. This SMD Chip labeled LH537FGS. I reflowed it and now the board is perfect. Could not find a datasheet for the IC so I am not sure what it does exactly.
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FSxvPss2.jpg&hash=4835e054b072b96d7b865cf6f47aa25c5d491130)
-
I'm curious, what reflow method do you use? I've got a PS3 with the "red light of death" that I need to reflow and I only know to use a heat gun but I know there are other methods out there.
-
I'm curious, what reflow method do you use? I've got a PS3 with the "red light of death" that I need to reflow and I only know to use a heat gun but I know there are other methods out there.
For a single chip like this I use hand reflowing. That is; apply flux to the pins and remelt the solder with your iron. Pretty simple.
For the stuff like the PS3 though it is a lot more technical as the chips concerned are BGA ( Ball grid array ). In other words, the solder is under the chip and you cannot see it, nor can you work it with an iron.
Therefore reworking those chips is a lot more technical and you gotta know what you are doing as you cannot check the work visually or touch it directly.
There are 3 ways that I know to reflow these BGA chips.
1.Infra red
2. Hot air
3.Oven
As far as I know an Infra red rework station is considered the professional option for BGA rework. Some will say this is the only way you should do it. Of course it is a very expensive machine.
You can do it with hot air, which allows for more affordable options but it may be a bit harder to control.
Oven reflow is interesting but the problem is that it is ill suited to most finished boards. Lots of components will get damaged unless they are first removed from the board or adequately protected. Electrolytic caps will burst and plastic parts will melt.