New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => CEI and Cal Omega Video Poker Games => Topic started by: bally bob on November 24, 2015, 10:31:40 AM
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Have a version 23.9, game board 904, mother board 910, discard draw-poker machine. The "stand" and "cancel" buttons never light but are functional. I assume the bulbs are burnt out? Before I break or damage something how do your replace the bulbs and with what size. Thanks.
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(Apologies for the late reply)
The bulb is known in the industry as a #161: it is spec'd as 2.7 watt, .19 amp, 14 volt, T3.25 Wedge Base, clear.
Very common, every slot or coin-op repair parts place will have them.
These wedge-based bulbs are not screw-in: they are pushed straight in, and pulled straight out. However, that "pulled straight out" is the kicker: it's difficult for the amateur to do without breakage when the bulb is buried down inside a button housing. Pro repairmen have a special tool. DO NOT GRAB WITH NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS! You are guaranteed to shatter the bulb. (Fortunately there is a recovery process…)
Similarly, the button top itself, with the word or picture symbol behind it, is also a "pull out, push in" affair, again much easier said than done (without damage)
Here's how I do it:
1. Remove button top by sliding a TINY flat-blade screwdriver down the narrow side of the button top, between the top itself and the black housing.
2. GENTLY pry upward on the screwdriver to pop the button-top end loose; if it does not come completely free, repeat on the other end.
3. Pull out the button top, and the (usually paper) label below it. You should be looking at a white rectangular plastic “window,†with the bulb in the middle, down in a hole. The top of the bulb is below flush.
4. Cut off a piece of vinyl electrical tape 1†– 1 ½†long. Manipulate one narrow end to create a half-cylindrical shape (no cursing, now; be nice!)
5. Slide that curved end down in the hole around the bulb, as far in as you can go. With that same tiny flat-end screwdriver you used to remove the button top, press the tape inward toward the bulb all around. You are trying to get it to stick firmly to the bulb, on as much surface area as possible.
6. Squeeze the part of the tape ABOVE the bulb to be flat, grab it with a small pliers, and gently pull it out. Ta-daaaa!
(Or if the tape breaks loose, try again; or see Last Chance, below)
7. Last Chance: if you have a shattered bulb (probably from trying to pull it out with needle-nose pliers…) all is not lost. Blow or suck out all the loose glass pieces, then reach in with that same needle nose to grasp the central filament tower (glass with wire buried therein) and pull it out. If you are successful, be sure to vacuum out all the remaining loose glass pieces before installing a new bulb.
I will attempt to take some photos of this process, with an eye toward turning it into a sticky. In the meantime, tell us how you make out.
(No, not that kind of makeout…; this is a nice forum! :facepalm:)
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Thanks for the info, plan to order some bulbs. Not sure if I have any here. A few pinball machine bumper caps had the same type of bulb you seem to describe. My fear would be in breaking the button cap. Will let you know what occurs.
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The world will tell you that the #194, and many others, are interchangeable. Perhaps in physical size, but the 194, for instance, uses twice the power, puts out twice the lumens (and heat) and has half the operating life. I'd stick with the 161.
(But then, I'm 70 and a belt-and-suspenders: kinda guy)
There are also LED "bulbs" that are theoretically direct replacements, and do not put our plastic-damaging heat, but I have no experience with them.