New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: polishdan on April 07, 2022, 02:08:04 PM
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Picked up a new (to me) PE+ Double Double Bonus and after installing a new battery (old one was corroded, but didn't damage the board, I am getting a myriad of error messages - Cprom, Eprom, Hopper Malfunction - one extra coin paid out. I did not use a set(038) chip YET after installing the new battery - "low battery" error has gone away. To get this machine settled down, should I run the set chip next, and then see what happens? It appears that a previous owner put in a multi set in, but I can't get the reset button working yet to see what is installed. The chips are not marked well. I can install a known good of single game chips, but I really would like to see what is in it. THX.
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Opening and closing the main door should clear the hopper error.
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For my PE plus DoubleDown bonus I did not have to use a clear chip for batt replacement
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Hold reset button 3 secs or tell it beeps
Shut door turn reset/jackpot key.
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These barn finds can be challenginng. I found the hopper coin sensor disconnected. Ran hopper test and only a buzz. I am going to throw in a different hopper. Before I do that, how do you inspect the hopper for functionality (jam, obstruction, motor) - I think this has been sitting for a while and may be stuck.
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It is the hopper. Swapped out a 50 cent hopper from another PE+ and it worked. I have an inoperative 25cent hopper that generates a "empty hopper" message, and upon self test it buzzes for a bit and then tilts. Any recommendations? Do I try and dissemble the hopper, or is it not worth it?
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Check the brake on the back of the motor. It may be stuck and/or seized.
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I am assuming the brake is on the bottom of the motor assembly with a tiny spring and plastic detent piece that runs over the lowest shaft, that is now rotating freel. How do I rotate the motor to try and get it unstuck? There isn't a good place to get leverage. Disassemble? (I hate that).
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With the brake disengaged you should be able to turn the entire coin wheel inside the hopper. That in turn should turn the motor armature through the gear box.
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Any guess how many turns on the brake to move the wheel inside the hopper? 10-1, 20-1, etc? Should this indicate a bad motor.( and how do I test?) Is there any wiggle in the hopper motor? It has a little play. THX THX THX
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Compared the 50cent (good hopper) to the 25cent (problem hopper): with the brake disengaged on the good one, the coin wheel turns. with the brake disengaged on the problem one, the coin wheel does not turn. Now what, strip it down and look for something binding up? The motor buzzes during test so I think is may be OK. THX
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Yes, and look for anything that may be jamming the coin wheel. There may be a screw or some other object jamming it.
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tomorrow when I have decent light
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The coin wheel moves freely about 1/4 to 1/8 inch (brake not engaged). seems like either the motor or gearbox is frozen. The avilibity of used PE+ hoppers are limited. If I found an S+ could I swap out motor & gearbox?
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The old Bally hoppers use the same transmissions too.
Why not post a photo of yours?
Maybe someone might have some parts for ya?
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The coin wheel moves freely about 1/4 to 1/8 inch (brake not engaged). seems like either the motor or gearbox is frozen. The avilibity of used PE+ hoppers are limited. If I found an S+ could I swap out motor & gearbox?
Other than the hopper bowl size I believe they are identical.
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I removed knife and cleared coin chute - no help. To be continued tomorrow - I have to finish Taxes. I will take motor and gear box off, bench test, and get part numbers. I doubt I can find a complete slant top 25c hopper in working order at a reasonable price - shipping will kill me. Sounds like there are good replacement parts options. THX
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Other than the hopper bowl size I believe they are identical.
Agreed.
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I got with B52-BadByron today and he helped me with identification. According to him, the PE+ motor & gearbox are the same as an S2000. It is a larger motor than the S+, but the gearbox looks the same. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a part number that makes any sense. When I removed the motor, there seemed like excessive play in the armature coming from the gearbox. With the motor removed, the hopper spun freely. With the motor reinstalled, it would hardly budge. I am going to try and source a new gearbox/motor combination. The S2000 is a 24vdc, isn't it? Is the PE+ 24vdc? THX
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S2000 hopper motor is 24VDC, PE+ motor is 120VAC.
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I am really perplexed. The S+ motor is 120v, but smaller than the PE+ motor. So are we talking 3 separate motors using the same gearbox?
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Pictures are worth a 1000 words as they say. So here you go. PE+, S+, and S2000/I-game upright hoppers. S+ and PE+ the same except for hopper bowl size. S2000 is different.
Also worth noting is it's still difficult to turn the hopper wheel by hand with the brake disengaged. Probably from all the gearing in the transmission gearbox. You won't turn it like a fan blade anyways.
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Holy cow! Here is the difference from what I see. The PE+ slant top is a hybrid between the S2000 and PE+ UPRIGHT, due to the vertical pay chute and force needed to get coins up instead of out. The following components are what I have in 2 slant top machines:
1. Larger motor than S+, same as PE+ upright, different motor from s2000(Please note position on leads). The motor orientation is 90 degrees counter-clockwise from the all three pics in the slant top.
2. PE Plus slant top utilizes a S2000 power plug.
Now, how do I test the power input to see if it is 110vac, or 24v vdc? I am guessing it's 110v. transmission boxes look the same.
I guess this is an anomaly present in the slant top only.
Tell me what you think.
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It does have a S2000 style beau plug on the back, but it looks the same as the PE+ and S+ motor just rotated 90 degrees like you said. If you look at the paper on the motor windings you'll see it's labeled 120VAC 60HZ, so that's your answer to the voltage question.
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To test the output of your machine you use a multimeter. The meter will read your voltage.
If you have a component that you need to know the voltage for - the meter won't help you, you need to look at the part and see if there is a label indicating the voltage or a part number so you can query the almighty inter-web.
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I am not famillar with the term "beau style". is this what you mean?
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Yes, that's it.