New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Dtabes on February 12, 2023, 06:33:17 AM
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Hi there I installed 2 new boards that were corroded really bad because of a battery and have installed the new boards but there is no coin display at all and even the "$25" in the middle does not light up. All fuses appear to be working correctly
Just looking for my next troubleshooting tip in this wonderful forum
I should also note that the reels can be turned freely
Doug
SEE PIC
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check the connector from the power supply to the motherboard, they sometimes get correded or burnt. Try sliding the connector up and down a few times to clean it.
Bob
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Tried that but still no luck.. The only thing I noticed is the plug is a little loose. There is no clip to lock it in place? I did place a pic though of the plug
Doug
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try moving it around and keep an eye on the reels, if you see them jerk/lock up then that's the problem. this is a very common problem with the s+
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Thank you.... When moving around I do not see the reels move at all but I do hear almost like a sound coming out of a speaker but no lights. There is also no lights at all flashing on the candle. Everything else is lit up fine except the candle and coin display. The reels don't even nudge at all when turning power on
Are we thinking display board? Harness?
Doug
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try running a jumper from the 2 green (ground) wires on the plug to the metal base of cabinet.
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It looks like the only power voltage you have is the 120vac on the red/white harnesses from the top of the power supply box.
Those are for the cabinet's fluorescent lighting.
The top 3-pin Molex is for the coin hopper's 120vac.
You might not have anything coming out of the bottom 6-pin Molex that's for the MPU and the rest of the cabinet.
I'd be taking that 6-pin Molex housing off of the motherboard/backplane, and sticking my multimeter probe in there, to see what's coming out of the pins.
Can you show me a good photo of all the connections you have on the floor motherboard?
I want to see if you have things plugged in correctly.
I've attached a drawing of the PS pinouts to this post.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Hi there thanks again for all your patience and help here. I have put a picture here for you to see the connections. The only other thing that was not replaced with a new board is that coroded piece that sits on the mother board and is attached to the meta enclsure.
I did try to jump the 2 green wires and nothing happened there
It also appears that nothing is coming out of that 6 pin connector so I am assuming power is not coming out of that bottom board?
Doug
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Please keep in mind that I have replaced the motherboard and that bottom board which just came in.
It appears there is no power coming out of that 6 pin unless I am doing something wrong. Can you please verify how and where I should be checking power...
When putting a coin as well it just falls through
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okay...the MPU is NOT going to work without the corroded transformer.
Is just the outside metal of the transformer that surrounds the coil corroded?
If so, it may still work as long as the coil wires are intact, and none of the wires that connect from the coil to the MPU are broken off.
Clean it up and put it back on the MPU tray and plug it back onto the MPU pins.
You need to get rid of all that corrosion man.
You can throw some vinegar on it, watch it bubble like nuts then rinse it and let it all drip dry overnight.
The 6-pin Molex that is connected to the floor motherboard or the backplane board...it is located right of the long black plastic connector.
The first two wires that you physically see are the two orange wires, a brown then blue wire and then the two green wires....those are coming from the big power supply box on the right hand side of the cabinet that has the power cord going out the hole.
If you look at the drawing I attached, it's exactly backwards from the way you see it physically on the machine.
Flip on the machine's power switch.
Your multimeter dial should be set for 200 volts AC.
Place a red multimeter probe into the back of the white Molex pin that has the orange wire,
and the black multimeter probe onto any metal of the cabinet or in the back of that white Molex housing hole of any one of the green wires.
Tell us what you get.
Check what vac voltage you get out of the brown/blue wire and the solid blue wire.
They should be somewhat close to the measurements on the attached sheet above.
Also, with your multimeter set to "continuity", pull out the lamp from the denom light and see if it's any good.
When you have power running thru the mpu, that denom lamp SHOULD light up on the reel glass.
I made a small drawing for you.
Click on the photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Hi there I tested those plugs as noted in the pics but nothing coming out of them with the power on to the machine. I guess the good news is we are starting to trace things down? I really really appreciate your help in this and for being so patient... LOL
Doug
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There are three fuses on the front of the power supply box, which is on the right-hand side of the cabinet floor under the cashbox.
Check each one for continuity with a multimeter.
From top to bottom:
6 amp
8 amp
6 amp
One of them is burned out.
They should be "quick blow" fuses only.
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Hi there I tested those plugs as noted in the pics but nothing coming out of them with the power on to the machine. I guess the good news is we are starting to trace things down? I really really appreciate your help in this and for being so patient... LOL
Doug
The 3 pin connector you are pointing out (reply #11) has nothing to do with power to the mother board. It is 120VAC for the hopper. You need to check the 6 pin below that one as well as the fuses again. Have you looked inside the power supply for loose coins or other metal objects that could be casing a short?
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Thank you I will def check the fuses. Can they be bought locally at like a NAPA if burnt out? Is there anything out there for how to open and inspect the power supply?
Cheers
Doug
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Pull the power cord out of the power supply box on the floor.
On the left side wall of the power supply box, there's a Philips screw, that is for the top cover.
Take the cover off and look inside carefully to see if there's any loose coins or objects in there that could short out anything.
Look for anything that could be charred or burnt. Use your senses...smell it.
You could remove the entire power supply box but that's a little more involved.
If you don't see anything in there shorting out anything, put the cover back on and re-install the holding screw.
You can buy the 3 glass fuses maybe from Napa auto parts or some other automotive store but make sure that you ask that they are "fast" or "quick blow" fuses.
It's highly unlikely that all 3 are burned out....check and determine which one is bad with a multimeter or take them to the store with you.
Let me ask....why is there so much corrosion on your MPU board?
Was the machine stored outside in the snow?
Did an onboard battery bust and leak all over the MPU board?
Can you give us a photo of the MPU board?
Don't remove or install anything with the power switch ON.
ALWAYS turn the power switch OFF before working on your machine.
You don't know enough about it to avoid getting shocked and we don't know why the fuse burned out.
Something fatally shorted out the machine.
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Ok great I will get right on top of checking that supply. This machine was given to us by my father-in-law who had it stored. When I first opened it the battery was on the lower part of the machine. It was toast and looked like it blew up which is maybe why there was so much corrosion? The CPU board and the lower board were replaced and tested. Something has def happened in there which is why I am just trying to narrow down why there is no power coming out of the side of the power supply. The harnesses and all the pins appear to be in good shape
I am going to try and get a couple fuses now just to have as a backup anyway
The only other thing that has corrosion on it is the transformer which I have since cleaned up. The pins and everything look ok with no signs of damage. It was just the outer part of the transformer that had a lot of corrosion on it. Is there a way to test the transformer?
I def always turn the power off before doing anything in that machine just to be 100% safe
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While you're at the store getting fuses, pick up a digital multimeter. :arrowthruhead:
Then maybe we can show you how to test the MPU tray transformer.
Chances are, when the battery blew up, it caused a short on the MPU and when someone unknowingly turned on the power switch, the fuse on the power supply box burned out - to protect the machine and person...that's is why there's no power coming out of the 6-pin Molex on the side of the power supply box.
That 6-pin Molex has AC voltages that run to the transformer coil on the MPU tray as well as the MPU itself.
Basically there's two 12VAC lines, an 8VAC line , a 7VAC line, and two green ground wires.
It's all in the drawing I attached above.
Earlier, RB mentioned that you pointed to the 3-pin connector coming out of the power supply box.
If you look closely, that particular harness also has a red/white pair of wires, the same as the wires coming off of the top back rear of your power supply.
Those red/white wires have the same 120 volts AC as a wall socket in your house.
Be VERY careful when messing with anything using those ones.
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Ok just got myself a multimeter (see pic) and also took a couple pics of inside the power supply. I did not see or smell anything with the cover open and really got to put my nose in there for anything out of the norm lol. I did not see any cut wires or any sort of corrosion
That is the latest update
Doug
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I think it looks okay in there....I'm just not sure about the bus bar....there should be 3 black wires plugged in close together, and one separated from the 3 plugged straight down.
The separation makes it 115Vac....if you move it next to the 3rd wire, it becomes 240vac....don't do that and I want to check if that's wherer the problem is or not besides a possible fuse burned out.
That bus bar determines whether your machine's power supply should output north american 120VAC or european 240VAC volts.
I can almost see it but it's not too clear.
It's right in the middle on the floor of the power box.
I attached your photo with a green circle around the bus bar.
I'll look for some documentation on the bus bar...I don't remember offhand, if there's 3 or 4 black wires plugged into that.
I'm not near an S+ at the moment.
To check a fuse...>>>
Turn and set your multimeter dial on to diode. ( I've always mistakenly called it "continuity"...The arrow pointing to the right plus sign. )
Put the black probe on one end of a fuse, and the red probe on the other end of the fuse.
If it beeps, then the fuse is good.
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To check a fuse...>>>
Turn and set your multimeter dial on to diode. ( I've always mistakenly called it "continuity"...The arrow pointing to the right plus sign. )
Put the black probe on one end of a fuse, and the red probe on the other end of the fuse.
If it beeps, then the fuse is good.
There is a real good chance that your Harbor Freight MM won't beep but the display should go from 1 to almost 000 if the fuse is good.
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Thank you I am on that for today just to clear something up from earlier
"I'm just not sure about the bus bar....there should be 3 black wires plugged in close together, and one separated from the 3 plugged straight down.
The separation makes it 115Vac....if you move it next to the 3rd wire, it becomes 240vac....don't do that and I want to check if that's wherer the problem is or not besides a possible fuse burned out.
That bus bar determines whether your machine's power supply should output north american 120VAC or european 240VAC volts.
I can almost see it but it's not too clear."
There is 3 plugged in close together and then a space with another one and they appear to be a solid seat
STUPID Question but does it matter at all which way the fuses go in the front? 6a 8am 6am
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STUPID Question but does it matter at all which way the fuses go in the front? 6a 8am 6am
The only stupid question is one that isn't asked.
If by "which way" you are referring to which end of the fuse? No, there isn't any difference. You just need to match the amperage shown on the orange label (8A in the middle). Just stick one end of the fuse in the cap, insert both in the socket and then twist clockwise to lock it in.
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okay...thanks for checking the bus bar....last thing we want is to melt everything....haha
I'm sure your machine will work once you get the fuses in.
Which one was burned out...the middle 8A fuse?
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Ok friends and help here is the latest on my issues with this machine. From left to right here are basically some of the volts I am getting out of them. If I move the white plug a little I can see the reels move a little and lock up but still no candle lights, coin display or sounds. I did replace all 3 of the fuses with brand new ones and checked them for continuity.
Please keep in mind that in the last week 2 boards are new and replaced, the transformer was replaced on the metal motherboard holder board, there is no corrosion anywhere at this point. I seen other posts about the clear chip and this has not been done either.
From left to right:
Orange : roughly 2.80v
Orange/Blue: roughly 7.3v
Brown: roughly 5.39v
Blue: roughly 3.5v
Green: roughly 3.9v
Green: roughly .1v (nearly nothing)
Keep in mind I am not an expert in any way and nor do I claim to be LOL just trying to follow along and troubleshoot the best I can from your posts
Doug
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CORRECTION: I have 12v, 12v, 8v, 7v, 0v and 0v from left to right on the molecular plug
I checked the dom bulb and now lights up but one of the other bulbs is missing
Where can I get some of these bulbs for the coin display and what do I need to look for? I mind as well buy all three so I have spares
With the dom lit the reels are locked but still no display or candle lights
I have to push on that white moles connector a little to get those reading so I am guessing need a new plug. If so where can I get?
That is the latest update
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You can buy a new harness with trifurcon pins from Trisail. They are superior to the originals. Send him a PM.
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you have to post a picture of all you motherboard connections, since you have replaced it, you may have put a connector in the wrong place, and this could cause your no display issue.
Jim
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I think all the connections went in the right spot here is a pic
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Is there a diagram for this S+ board that shows what connectors go where so I can cross reference it? If one light is burnt out on the coin display would that prevent anything?
I also just checked the battery again on the motherboard and is 3.6v
Doug
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TOPIC SOLVED - Ended up being that white molex connector to the power supply and works like a charm. THANK YOU ALL who took the time to help me as I am grateful