Blue bird meter bypass

[wireman]

do anyone have a picture of the meter bypass for a bluebird and a wms 550

[rickhunter]

The only way of the meter bypass for a bluebird is to use a Mississippi sjur chip.  For the wms5xx and 3xx you can use a plug with wires 3 and 8 on the meter connector in backplane.  Here's a photo of the one I made for my 550.  This plug does not work a bb1 cabinet, only in the old legacy 5xx and 3xx cabinets.  In the bluebird with a Mississippi sjur chip, the meters simply don't do anything, you don't even have to unplug them.

[coolwavepic]

If you unplug the meters, will the game lock up? I hate the clicking sounds!

[rickhunter]

If you don't have the mississippi sjur installed, you will get a meter tilt.  The only way to get rid of them on the bb1/bb2 cabinet is to use the mississippi sjur chip OR use the meter silencers that I made back in the day.  Basically a 5 watt 10ohm resistor to simulate the meter load.  Here's a link to the old board with the information.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=71.0

[Hertz14]

Waking up an old topic-

All or most of us are now becoming familiar with using the MS SJUR to eliminate the meter clicking on bb1,2 and 3. I’ve used Columbia on all of my WMS as it eliminates the 1200 jackpot hand pay cap AND allows you to set the hard meter to 100.00 increments on most OS with the exception of A2 and H17 which can be set to 10.00 - still WAYYY better than a click for every .01.

Now that the SG BB3 conversions are getting more popular, I decided to dabble in it a bit. I was able to get a hold of a Jamaica Jurisdiction loader which eliminates the 1200 cap, but there seems to be no possible adjustment in the meter increment settings. I have yet to obtain a Columbia file to see if that option opens up. I’m very curious if Rickhunter’s resistor build has been tried and successful on Bb2 or 3 before I place an order and do the build.

Has anyone attempted this on the later WMS models?

[gbknox]

Hertz14
This is working for me on the Blades.

I bypassed my meters on all my Blades with a Molex and 330 ohm 1/2 Watt resisters.
I used a 12 Pin Molex Mini-fit Jr. I jumper'd the following.

1 to 7, 2 to 8, 3 to 9, 4 to 10, 5 to 11 and 6 to 12 with the 330 ohm 1/2 Watt resisters. I
No more meters or meter failures.

Molex Pins
1   2   3   4     5       6
7   8   9   10   11    12

I'm not sure how to attached a picture but I have a picture of one. I've been running 3 of them since the first of the year. Works great in the Blades
GK

[Hertz14]

Hertz14
This is working for me on the Blades.

I bypassed my meters on all my Blades with a Molex and 330 ohm 1/2 Watt resisters.
I used a 12 Pin Molex Mini-fit Jr. I jumper'd the following.

1 to 7, 2 to 8, 3 to 9, 4 to 10, 5 to 11 and 6 to 12 with the 330 ohm 1/2 Watt resisters. I
No more meters or meter failures.

Molex Pins
1   2   3   4     5       6
7   8   9   10   11    12

I'm not sure how to attached a picture but I have a picture of one. I've been running 3 of them since the first of the year. Works great in the Blades
GK

Thanks for the info GK,

Did you use axial or radial type?

How did you determine the 330ohm amount?

[gbknox]

I used axial resisters. I can't take full credit for this, the first Blade I purchased had one installed in it. I just replicated it.

[Hertz14]

Thanks for the photo, looks simple enough.

I’m curious why 330ohm was the number that was landed on- all of my meters have a static resistance of 121ohms +\- 1 ohm.

I’m thinking about making one myself to try, but going with a lower resistance, say 130.

Have you noticed if the resistors get warm on yours? Thinking that the higher resistor would generate more heat.

[Trisail]

I don't know the voltage the meters use on the BB's.

But to answer the question of 330 ohm to 130 ohm change- ohms law E=I*R.  Power (watts) = E*I

Assume 12VDC. 12=I*330, 12/330=I, .03636=I. About .037A
or 37mA. Watts = 12*.037= .444. 1/2 watt resistor is correct.

Assume 12VDC. 12=I*130, 12/130=I, .0923=I. About .092A
or 93mA. Watts = 12*.092 = 1.104. 1/2 watt resistor is not correct. 1 watt resistors would probably be ok but 2 watt would be recommended. Would be hotter. Not sure what the detection circuit is rated, I would not lower the value.

A larger value ohm resistor would reduce current and therefore less power (watts). Not sure what detection circuit lower limit is.

With 6 1/2 watt resistors at .444A the resistors would be the
equivalent of about a 3 watt light bulb.

I don't know the circuit or method of detection for the meter tilt - will assume current draw??? The resistors work at 330 ohm 1/2 watt - I would use that method.

This assumes the resistor drops all the voltage and uses all the current.

[Hertz14]

This is a great write up Tony, thanks!

You’re absolutely right about the variable of not knowing what the trigger for the tilt is, but if the 330 works with no tilt and doesn’t create a lot of heat, then I guess why fix it if it ain’t broke? My thoughts were then obviously backwards thinking a higher resistance would create more heat, but looking at the math on the reduction of power now makes perfect sense.

[gbknox]

I turned on one of my Blade Cabinet's and played it for about 30 minutes on a WMS Game. Temps were running 84.5f. I did the same on a Blade cabinet running an SG ArgOS game and the temps on the Molex were 82.4f. I've had a couple temporary tilts in the last 8 months since I have owned the cabinets, but I would blame those tilts on the MultiLink Playtable over my network. I can count the times on one hand that I've had issues with the cabinets in general. I'm hard of hearing but when I first bought the 2nd and 3rd Blade, I can still hear them. They drove my wife crazy, so I made 2 new Molex connectors for the new cabinets. My wife is happier now.
GK

[idesign]

I turned on one of my Blade Cabinet's and played it for about 30 minutes on a WMS Game. Temps were running 84.5f. I did the same on a Blade cabinet running an SG ArgOS game and the temps on the Molex were 82.4f. I've had a couple temporary tilts in the last 8 months since I have owned the cabinets, but I would blame those tilts on the MultiLink Playtable over my network. I can count the times on one hand that I've had issues with the cabinets in general. I'm hard of hearing but when I first bought the 2nd and 3rd Blade, I can still hear them. They drove my wife crazy, so I made 2 new Molex connectors for the new cabinets. My wife is happier now.
GK

If you are running Twinstar games on the Blade you can just use a Nevada H version of the jurisdiction file and the meters don't work.

[Hertz14]

I turned on one of my Blade Cabinet's and played it for about 30 minutes on a WMS Game. Temps were running 84.5f. I did the same on a Blade cabinet running an SG ArgOS game and the temps on the Molex were 82.4f. I've had a couple temporary tilts in the last 8 months since I have owned the cabinets, but I would blame those tilts on the MultiLink Playtable over my network. I can count the times on one hand that I've had issues with the cabinets in general. I'm hard of hearing but when I first bought the 2nd and 3rd Blade, I can still hear them. They drove my wife crazy, so I made 2 new Molex connectors for the new cabinets. My wife is happier now.
GK

I’m assuming it still has the 1200 jackpot limit?

We do some friendly tournaments in the game room and that 1200 limit kinda bites when you jump from machine to machine.

If you are running Twinstar games on the Blade you can just use a Nevada H version of the jurisdiction file and the meters don't work.

[texasfirefighter]

FYI - I have a WMS BB1 and  did used the above method to bypass meters using 330 ohm resistorsand 12 pin mini molex connector. Machine has been up and running for 2 weeks now with zero issues. I just wanted everyone to know that same should work for bb2 machines as well since they work on BB1 and BB3.

[Newbooty]

I know this is an old post, but I just installed the Columbia Jur chip.  I can now set the counters to high numbers at least in Willy Wonka.  I set it to $1000 and don't even hear the meters anymore.

[Newbooty]

So I have an update on my Hard meter journey. 

The Columbia Chip worked for these games to modify the hard meters:

Illinois Game Chest
Willy Wonka
Game Chest 14 

Super Team does not allow hard-meter changing with the Columbia Jur Chip.

I could set the hard meters to any value, on any of those games, but not for Super Team. The hard meter is stuck at .01. 

I built the Molex resistor mod.  It works like a charm.  $200 pulls with no clicking.