New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: diskmonger on June 27, 2016, 02:39:03 PM
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I picked up an IGT S+ Double Diamonds machine for free about a week ago, I know nothing about slot machines but have been doing a lot of reading up on them. Since the board has EPROMS I know it's an S+. The machine sat unused for years as mostly a display piece at a local business. Powering the machine up I get the "12" error which after reading about the machine indicates the battery on the board needs to be changed. I have the battery on order, along with the RESET and SET chips. I plan on just clearing the first error by replacing the battery and going on from there.
I see many of these machines use a coin comparator, you slip the sample coin in and it uses that sample coin to compare against any coins that are put in. This machine however doesn't seem to have one, the coin slot comes right down into a plastic device called a MONEX and then it looks like there is some kind of circuitry below that. Any kind of coin you put into the machine seems to go directly into the hopper (token, quarter, whatever). Once I get this thing working I'm just not sure how to configure what kind of coins it takes. Just looking for a little guidance.
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Welcome to NLG. IMONEX is a coin mechanism not a coin comparator. My guess is it probably works good. Was the MPU clean and free of acid damage when you took it out? Cross the bridge with the coin mech. when you get it running. Good price.... :applause:
Dave
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Those IMONEX coin acceptors are pretty reliable and simple, lots of different arcade and slot machines used them. They are made for a particular coin, plus the coin entry slot on the outside of the machine also helps determine the coin the machine accepts. Unless yours isn't working for some reason I wouldn't worry about it. They are never lubricated, just clean if dirty. If you remove the IMONEX coin acceptor you can look it over, there is sometimes a sticker or inkstamp saying what coin it is for. You can also play with it outside the machine and see how a coin goes thru it.
The casinos started using the electronic coin comparitors for better security against slugs and other cheaters. There's no need for you to convert to one unless you just want to.
If the coin acceptor doesn't like the inserted coin it returns it to the coin tray on the front of the machine. If the coin is accepted it falls out the bottom of the coin acceptor and goes past a pair of coin optic boards. These boards have optic tx and rx circuits to detect that a coin has passed thru. They work in a similar way to those safety beam sensors at the bottom of a garage door to detect if something is in the path of the lightbeam. These boards signal the main logic board (mpu board) that a coin has passed and you get a playing credit on the machine. After falling past the coin optic boards the coin slides into the coin hopper.
On any machine that is new to you it is wise to pull the mpu board and check it carefully for a leaking battery. Prevention is a lot better than dealing with a problem later. Post photos of anything you have a question about.
Also, both the plain S and the S+ models have eproms on the mpu board. The eproms are where the game software is located. The main difference between an S and an S+ is in how the mpu board is connected to the rest of the machine. If the mpu board plugs downward into another circuit board (called a motherboard) below then the machine is an S+. On the plain S models the mpu board has wiring cables with connectors that slide onto the edges of the mpu board. There are other differences between the models but this is the biggie.
Please post photos of your machine, from the outside and some with the door open. We'd like to see what you got there for such a good deal! :yes:
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Once you get that battery replaced, you might find your coin acceptor is in working order. It has a 25c coin head on the machine. I can see the "12" on the back in your pic.
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Great information guys, I really appreciate it. The business I acquired the machine from was an automotive business, the machine was a display piece in their waiting room. The business was sold and they were actually going to throw it into the car crusher and get rid of it. I just couldn't bear the thought of the machine being destroyed so they allowed me to take it home :)
Sounds like the coin acceptor is not something to worry about, I've found several quarters inside the machine so I am going to assume it's setup to take regular US quarters. I'm attaching some pictures here if you guys can offer anymore information that would be great. I'd especially be interested in knowing if I have an S or S+ as well. One thing I do see down towards where the hopper and power switch is, is a couple wires that are not hooked up to anything. Almost looks like some speaker wire with a couple connectors on the end.
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Couple more pics of the machine
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Looks like an S to me.
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Ok, so I have an "S" and not an "S+" - good to know :)
I'm assuming after replacing the battery it may be necessary to use the reset EPROM. I have not found any information on using the RESET or SET chip on the regular S model, do the S+ chips work in the regular S?
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It's an S+. The Mpu is mounted to the back wall on an S. This is an early style S+. They didn't have validators but do have door optics and are the same as the later S+ models. With the MPU on the left wall the test switch will be down among the wires coming out of the front. Also that's a 10MHZ mpu. If you look on the right side above the 2 wires that go to the reset key. On the very front are the door optics. Also on the MPU the third molex connector down that doesn't have anything plugged into it. Right below that you can see a little white switch sticking out. That is the test switch for clearing errors.
Dave
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Does your coin tray have a big speaker on the right side? Those could be extra speaker wires.
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Okay scrolling through the reel chip on your machine, the SS3633 is a 87% payoff. Ugh. When you are ready to change, I would suggest a SS3436-95% or SS3664-97%. They don't payout that much for every $100 put in, but you'll enjoy a higher payout for home use. Also S style machines don't have reelproms. The payout is included in the game chip.Here's a great video to change out the battery if you've never done it. 3rd one down.
https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylc=X3oDMTFiN25laTRvBF9TAzIwMjM1MzgwNzUEaXRjAzEEc2VjA3NyY2hfcWEEc2xrA3NyY2h3ZWI-?p=replace+slot+machine+battery&fr=yfp-t&fp=1&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8
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.....One thing I do see down towards where the hopper and power switch is, is a couple wires that are not hooked up to anything. Almost looks like some speaker wire with a couple connectors on the end.....
Thanks for the photos, they really help to clear up a lot of questions and make things easier to understand. Have you pulled out the hopper yet to check behind it? After removing the coin tray the hopper just slides straight forward, there are a couple of metal guides made into the machine cabinet floor. It will unplug itself as it slides forward.
Those 2 loose wires near the power switch could be for a security switch that was in the machine's stand back when it was in a casino. The machine is made so that if the hopper gets full of coins (and with the low game winning percentage your machine has that could have happened often) the machine then directs inserted coins to an overflow chute and the coins fall into a plastic bucket down inside the stand. Since there is money inside the stand they have a door on the front of the stand, it has a lock and a security switch to sense if the door is unlocked. Anyway, maybe that's what those 2 disconnected wires are for.
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Does your coin tray have a big speaker on the right side? Those could be extra speaker wires.
I don't see an extra speaker on the right, just the standard one on the left. Here is a better picture of the wire.
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.....One thing I do see down towards where the hopper and power switch is, is a couple wires that are not hooked up to anything. Almost looks like some speaker wire with a couple connectors on the end.....
Thanks for the photos, they really help to clear up a lot of questions and make things easier to understand. Have you pulled out the hopper yet to check behind it? After removing the coin tray the hopper just slides straight forward, there are a couple of metal guides made into the machine cabinet floor. It will unplug itself as it slides forward.
Those 2 loose wires near the power switch could be for a security switch that was in the machine's stand back when it was in a casino. The machine is made so that if the hopper gets full of coins (and with the low game winning percentage your machine has that could have happened often) the machine then directs inserted coins to an overflow chute and the coins fall into a plastic bucket down inside the stand. Since there is money inside the stand they have a door on the front of the stand, it has a lock and a security switch to sense if the door is unlocked. Anyway, maybe that's what those 2 disconnected wires are for.
I have not had the hopper out yet, I will try removing that in the next few days. That is a good theory on the security switch for the stand it would have been on. There is a secondary chute that appears to go down into a hole at the base of the machine, which is exactly what you are describing.
Thanks again for all the great information, I should have the battery in the next few days I will be sure to report back on how everything went after the replacement.
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The mpu board looks in nice condition. There's not a lot that goes wrong with these machines, sometimes the power supply or mpu board go bad but that doesn't happen often, and even if so the parts are readily available for reasonable prices and you can replace them yourself. After replacing the battery and checking all fuses you may have a working machine fairly soon.
I wouldn't worry too much about the 2 loose wires for now, as you get the machine running it will become apparent what they are for. On the right side of the machine when facing it, not far from the pull handle you should see a keyswitch. That is the reset switch. On the inside of the machine that reset switch should have 2 wires attached. If you didn't get the reset key that isn't a huge problem, they are sold lots of places. The reset key is usually called a "2341" key, that is the one just about universal in use.
I brightened and reposted a few of your photos so some of the details would be more visible.
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The mpu board looks in nice condition. There's not a lot that goes wrong with these machines, sometimes the power supply or mpu board go bad but that doesn't happen often, and even if so the parts are readily available for reasonable prices and you can replace them yourself. After replacing the battery and checking all fuses you may have a working machine fairly soon.
I wouldn't worry too much about the 2 loose wires for now, as you get the machine running it will become apparent what they are for. On the right side of the machine when facing it, not far from the pull handle you should see a keyswitch. That is the reset switch. On the inside of the machine that reset switch should have 2 wires attached. If you didn't get the reset key that isn't a huge problem, they are sold lots of places. The reset key is usually called a "2341" key, that is the one just about universal in use.
Great! I'll let you know how things go, I plan on getting the battery replaced sometime later in the week. Yep, I did manage to get the reset key with the machine so I'm all set there.
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I'm glad you saved it from "The Crusher". As you can already see there's a lot of good folks on here that can help you with tech issues & parts. It's an addiction. Enjoy the ride & kudos for the detailed pics you posted.
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Looks like an S to me.
It's an S+. The Mpu is mounted to the back wall on an S. This is an early style S+.
Agreed with Shaggy. The exterior of the machine has a lot of hallmarks of an "S" (non-plus), but the MPU board makes it an S+. Looks like you've gotten lots of good advice already. I'll just add a link here to the common S+ error codes, which you'll likely run into a couple of them after you change the battery. Follow the resolutions for the code(s) you get, and you should be in business quickly.
http://newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://newlifegames.net/igterrors/)
Of note, as rokgpsman pointed out in Reply #11 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=11846.msg63959#msg63959), the self-test button on your machine is located on the MPU board enclosure, to the left of the hopper. You'll need to use that button to get past certain error codes. The jackpot reset keyswitch on the side of the machine is also used at times, as described in the link above.
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The amount of knowledge on this forum is pretty incredible, thanks again for the insight guys. I made a donation to the site hopefully that helps out with costs, etc.
Still waiting on the battery, I did pull the coin hopper out today and took a better picture of where that wire is running to. As discussed earlier in the thread it sounds like maybe some part of the alarm system for the cabinet that it would have sat on.
One other question I had, on the top right of the machine there is a hole in the cabinet. Looks like something was installed there at some point, anyone know what that would have been? I'd like to cover that up or put whatever was there back so I don't have the silly looking hole there. Hopefully you can see in the picture but there is a larger hole about an inch or two in diameter and then a couple small screw holes surrounding the larger hole.
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The amount of knowledge on this forum is pretty incredible, thanks again for the insight guys. I made a donation to the site hopefully that helps out with costs, etc.
Still waiting on the battery, I did pull the coin hopper out today and took a better picture of where that wire is running to. As discussed earlier in the thread it sounds like maybe some part of the alarm system for the cabinet that it would have sat on.
One other question I had, on the top right of the machine there is a hole in the cabinet. Looks like something was installed there at some point, anyone know what that would have been? I'd like to cover that up or put whatever was there back so I don't have the silly looking hole there. Hopefully you can see in the picture but there is a larger hole about an inch or two in diameter and then a couple small screw holes surrounding the larger hole.
I have one of those on mine too. Sometimes those had an external bill validator mounted on the side. Big ugly dude. Don't know for sure but, if it bothers you get a cool casino logo of some kind and cover it up. Or even a fan cover, not used but never looks bad. It may also have been a casino monitor of some sort. That's been a lot of years.
Dave
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This is a great machine. The price was perfect. Chances are good, that a battery will do the trick, and possibly the use of a clear chip.
One other question I had, on the top right of the machine there is a hole in the cabinet. Looks like something was installed there at some point, anyone know what that would have been?
Casinos at this time usually mounted a players tracking box in this spot for your players card to be inserted, for point score and comp tracking.
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The S+ rarely needs a clear chip. If you had a validator I would recommend getting a SET chip, but since you don't, it doesn't matter. 99% of the time the S+ will come up after clearing the errors following the S+ common error FAQ/guide.
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The amount of knowledge on this forum is pretty incredible, thanks again for the insight guys. I made a donation to the site hopefully that helps out with costs, etc.
Still waiting on the battery, I did pull the coin hopper out today and took a better picture of where that wire is running to. As discussed earlier in the thread it sounds like maybe some part of the alarm system for the cabinet that it would have sat on.
One other question I had, on the top right of the machine there is a hole in the cabinet. Looks like something was installed there at some point, anyone know what that would have been? I'd like to cover that up or put whatever was there back so I don't have the silly looking hole there. Hopefully you can see in the picture but there is a larger hole about an inch or two in diameter and then a couple small screw holes surrounding the larger hole.
If there isn't a ventilation fan in the machine somewhere on the inside then that could be what that hole in the side of the cabinet is for. A lot of machines have them when built new. Then years later if they go bad, start making too much noise or whatever, someone will remove it. On these older machines there isn't that much heat generated so a fan usually isn't needed when operated in a home, and really most USA casinos are so cold that I doubt they were needed there. Newer machines with a lot more electronics and lights do produce more heat so they probably do need fans. You can cover the hole on the outside with a square or round piece of perforated tin or other metal, like a speaker grill, use a few screws to hold it in place, and it will look like it's been there all along, plus will keep kid's hands or your cat from getting too inquisitive.
Another idea, if those 2 loose wires in the bottom of the machine will reach this hole then someone may have hooked up a speaker and mounted it on the inside of that hole. Those 2 disconnected wires don't look like factory original wiring, especially the splice connection on that connector wiring. If it isn't too difficult you may need to follow the wires they are spliced to and see where they are connected. Or see if that connector has a number that someone can find on the drawing. In your photo it looks like that white connector with the 2 splices is disconnected, is that how it was when you got the machine or did you disconnect it?
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.....The amount of knowledge on this forum is pretty incredible, thanks again for the insight guys. I made a donation to the site hopefully that helps out with costs, etc....
Thank you for the donation, your "badge" should get updated to show that you are a contributing member. If it doesn't change from the 2 Cherries icon send one of the moderators a private message (pm) and they can check on it for you. With that you gain the additional benefits of access to the files download area and ability to post For Sale ads in the classifieds area (in case you want to sell this machine - ha!)
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Those wires looked to be spliced into a 120 volt connection. ?
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The amount of knowledge on this forum is pretty incredible, thanks again for the insight guys. I made a donation to the site hopefully that helps out with costs, etc.
Still waiting on the battery, I did pull the coin hopper out today and took a better picture of where that wire is running to. As discussed earlier in the thread it sounds like maybe some part of the alarm system for the cabinet that it would have sat on.
One other question I had, on the top right of the machine there is a hole in the cabinet. Looks like something was installed there at some point, anyone know what that would have been? I'd like to cover that up or put whatever was there back so I don't have the silly looking hole there. Hopefully you can see in the picture but there is a larger hole about an inch or two in diameter and then a couple small screw holes surrounding the larger hole.
If there isn't a ventilation fan in the machine somewhere on the inside then that could be what that hole in the side of the cabinet is for. A lot of machines have them when built new. Then years later if they go bad, start making too much noise or whatever, someone will remove it. On these older machines there isn't that much heat generated so a fan usually isn't needed when operated in a home, and really most USA casinos are so cold that I doubt they were needed there. Newer machines with a lot more electronics and lights do produce more heat so they probably do need fans. You can cover the hole on the outside with a square or round piece of perforated tin or other metal, like a speaker grill, use a few screws to hold it in place, and it will look like it's been there all along, plus will keep kid's hands or your cat from getting too inquisitive.
Another idea, if those 2 loose wires in the bottom of the machine will reach this hole then someone may have hooked up a speaker and mounted it on the inside of that hole. Those 2 disconnected wires don't look like factory original wiring, especially the splice connection on that connector wiring. If it isn't too difficult you may need to follow the wires they are spliced to and see where they are connected. Or see if that connector has a number that someone can find on the drawing. In your photo it looks like that white connector with the 2 splices is disconnected, is that how it was when you got the machine or did you disconnect it?
Correct, that is how the wires were when I got the machine.
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Correct, that is how the wires were when I got the machine.
Due to what Sunrise mentioned, if you have a meter you might want to see if there is 115 vac line power on those wires, just in case. That could be a shock or shorting hazard, those slip-on/spade terminals usually aren't fully insulated, part of the metal terminal may be exposed. Someone may have added the wires to get line power for something they added at one time. Be careful handling them until you know for sure. If they do have line voltage on them I'd recommend you remove them. Unplug the machine from the wall outlet, cut the 2 added wires about 1 inch or so from their splices and put a twist-on wire nut to cover and insulate the short ends of the added wires. Or you could try removing the wires from the splice completely but they can be hard to undo.
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Sure enough they were spliced into the 120V connection, just put a meter on it and confirmed. I cut the wires down as suggested and added a coupe wire nuts on the ends and snugged them up nice and tight. Also made sure to hide them behind the plastic protective piece with the other wires.
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One other question I had, on the top right of the machine there is a hole in the cabinet. Looks like something was installed there at some point, anyone know what that would have been? I'd like to cover that up or put whatever was there back so I don't have the silly looking hole there. Hopefully you can see in the picture but there is a larger hole about an inch or two in diameter and then a couple small screw holes surrounding the larger hole.
So, back in the day before player tracking equipment was standard fare on slot machines, add-on external player tracking devices were put on the upper-right side of slot machines. That's what that hole is for. You obviously don't need slot club player tracking, so that hole can be covered up.
The now-missing player tracking box may have looked something like this:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.tinypic.com%2Fi3a1ea.jpg&hash=011062bc69078250dad59eaa085447699a60848e)
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Anyone know what the appropriate button size/package would be for this machine? I have at least one button "Bet one credit" that is stuck in the down position. I bought what I thought were replacements for an S+ but they are larger than the ones that came off the machine. The "Spin Reels" and "Bet 3 credits" are more of a rectangle but the new ones I picked up are square.
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Anyone know what the appropriate button size/package would be for this machine? I have at least one button "Bet one credit" that is stuck in the down position. I bought what I thought were replacements for an S+ but they are larger than the ones that came off the machine. The "Spin Reels" and "Bet 3 credits" are more of a rectangle but the new ones I picked up are square.
I think IGT used different shape and size of buttons over the years, even on the same model of machine. From what I've read they changed the S+ large buttons to the square shaped design sometime around 1994 and the S2000 machines use the same or similar button. That's what most places carry as replacement buttons.
One of the members here is parting-out an IGT S+ and you can see the buttons on his machine are different from yours, even though both machines are S+:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=11843.msg63922#msg63922 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=11843.msg63922#msg63922)
Here are the buttons Spin, Inc has for the S+ but again the large buttons are square, not rectangular like you need:
http://www.spininc.com/73483-0 (http://www.spininc.com/73483-0)
Would you be able to contact the place where you got them and maybe exchange the large square buttons for rectangular ones? Since your machine is an early S+ the buttons may be more like what was used on the plain S model machines, not sure. You may not be able to find new buttons like you need, and have to get used buttons from someone. There's probably a vendor here on NLG that has some used buttons from a machine like yours.
Also, since you are planning to replace it anyway you might remove the stuck button and disassemble it, a good cleaning might fix things. Or the spring may have broken and just needs replaced.
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The stuck button may just have got some soda or whatever in there. Take it out and clean it. If it's broke, swap it for the change button for the time being. As stated above, the rectangular buttons might well have been square when the machine was new and got changed over time. In any case, the large square should still work though unless you don't like them
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I didn't spend a terrible amount of money on the replacement (non-LED) so I'm not too worried about it, I'll do some checking around and maybe even contact the guy who is parting the other one out. The good news is I took the old button apart and was able to stretch the spring out a little and I got that back in seemingly working condition again, so that is good.
On the new ones I got the thread is just barely a little too thick to allow it to slip down into the hole, I didn't want to force it and bend the plastic threads all up. Still waiting on that battery, hopefully I will have that tomorrow or Saturday.
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Since you are a contributing member you could post a WTB ad in the Classifieds area about needing some replacement buttons, show the photo of what they look like. The classifieds are read more frequently by the various parts sellers here. My guess is someone has some good condition ones from a machine like yours that they would sell for reasonable cost. Is it just the 2 larger ones you need and the set you bought has the right size smaller buttons? Or did you get all wrong ones?
On the button that was sticky, if it sticks again what I've done is take it apart and lightly sand the sides of the button cover that moves up and down so there is a little more clearance between it and the button body. Or as cowboygames suggested, you can use parts from the red "Change" button to fix the sticky button, it won't matter if the "Change" button doesn't work great.
If your buttons aren't cracked or otherwise bad, just dirty, you can probably clean them with a some warm water and a little dish detergent. I've done that and they look much better. But if they have yellowed from the heat of the bulb inside the button about the only thing you can do is replace the yellowed parts, or entire button.
PS> you may want to contact an NLG staff member, or the big Kahuna himself and ask about getting your "Contributing Member" status updated in your NLG profile.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=1 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=1)
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Since you are a contributing member you could post a WTB ad in the Classifieds area about needing some replacement buttons, show the photo of what they look like. The classifieds are read more frequently by the various parts sellers here. My guess is someone has some good condition ones from a machine like yours that they would sell for reasonable cost. Is it just the 2 larger ones you need and the set you bought has the right size smaller buttons? Or did you get all wrong ones?
On the button that was sticky, if it sticks again what I've done is take it apart and lightly sand the sides of the button cover that moves up and down so there is a little more clearance between it and the button body. Or as cowboygames suggested, you can use parts from the red "Change" button to fix the sticky button, it won't matter if the "Change" button doesn't work great.
If your buttons aren't cracked or otherwise bad, just dirty, you can probably clean them with a some warm water and a little dish detergent. I've done that and they look much better. But if they have yellowed from the heat of the bulb inside the button about the only thing you can do is replace the yellowed parts, or entire button.
PS> you may want to contact an NLG staff member, or the big Kahuna himself and ask about getting your "Contributing Member" status updated in your NLG profile.
[url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=1[/url] ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=1[/url])
Yeah none of the buttons fit down into the holes, they are just barely too big. The donation was just a one time donation to help the site out, I didn't actually sign up to be a contributing member, etc.
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ok, but I thought even a one-time donation got you 30 days as a contributing member. :Scratch-Head:
Here's a recent post about it from another member:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=11144.msg60009#msg60009 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=11144.msg60009#msg60009)
Anyway, will your old buttons clean up and look ok, or do they need replacing due to cracked or other appearance problems?
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ok, but I thought even a one-time donation got you 30 days as a contributing member. :Scratch-Head:
Here's a recent post about it from another member:
[url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=11144.msg60009#msg60009[/url] ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=11144.msg60009#msg60009[/url])
Anyway, will your old buttons clean up and look ok, or do they need replacing due to cracked or other appearance problems?
I'll send the moderator a note about the contributing member thing.
The buttons are not bad, but I might need some bulbs. Not sure if they come on before fixing the battery issue or not.
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Some of the lights come on regardless.
Spin won't light up unless the game is ready to play.
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...The buttons are not bad, but I might need some bulbs. Not sure if they come on before fixing the battery issue or not.
I think the button bulbs are 6.3 volt mini-wedge base style but others here will correct me if that's not right. If you remove one of the bad bulbs you might be able to read the bulb number on it. There are some different choices in 6.3 bulbs, some with slightly more wattage that are a little brighter but give off more heat which can discolor your button. The button bulb numbers I'm aware of are # 86, 259 and 555. I don't know which bulb was the factory original that IGT used. They are often less than a quarter each in boxes of 10.
http://www.spininc.com/search?q=6.3+bulb (http://www.spininc.com/search?q=6.3+bulb)
To jazz things up some owners replace the buttons bulbs with LED's. They give off a lot less heat, the lighting is softer, you can get different colors besides white and they use less electricity so are easier on your power supply and your elec bill,,,,.especially after you get a room full of machines.
As Jay said, some of the button lamps only come on when it is appropriate to press the button.
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Ok guys,
Got the Battery replaced, we're passed the "12" code. I got a "61" after powering the machine up which sounds normal after battery replacement. Per the error code instructions I opened the machine and held the white test button down for 2-3 seconds, never got a sound but the display went to "61_1". I closed the door and turned the jackpot key and now I'm back to 61 again.
I did this a couple times, always the same result. Sounds like I may be stuck in this 61 loop I was hearing about. Should I be thinking about using the RESET chip now or if there anything else I can try?
Thanks again for all the great help!
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Yes, if it went back to 61, then you're in the "61 loop". Go ahead and use a RAM CLEAR chip if you have one. The procedure to follow is at the bottom of the following webpage (steps 63-73):
http://www.ohiogaming.com/replacementinstructions.htm (http://www.ohiogaming.com/replacementinstructions.htm)
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Likely you are going to need to use the clear chip.
I did hear about one person breaking the loop by turning his machine off holding in the white button and turning the machine on. At worst it won't work but won't hurt the machine either way.
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Yes, if it went back to 61, then you're in the "61 loop". Go ahead and use a RAM CLEAR chip if you have one. The procedure to follow is at the bottom of the following webpage (steps 63-73):
[url]http://www.ohiogaming.com/replacementinstructions.htm[/url] ([url]http://www.ohiogaming.com/replacementinstructions.htm[/url])
Ok I was able to successfully get the machine cleared and no more error codes - I'm able to add coins to the machine and play.
I'm not hearing any sounds at all, also coins played is at "3" until I put a coin in and it goes to "1" and so on. After a coin is put in the SPIN REELS button lights up and I can spin. The "Winner Paid" and "Credits" values never display anything. I know the readout is working because I was able to see the error codes on it before. Any ideas?
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Ok, "WINNER PAID" does come on (see below), I just never see anything under "CREDITS". Machine pays out immediately when it hits, does not seem to use the "CREDITS" at all. I am guessing this is a configuration settings. Also, still stumped on the sound, speaker appears to be hooked up, etc.
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After doing a CLEAR I'm pretty sure you will need to get into the settings and put some settings back to the way you want it since the CLEAR reverts to default settings. There may be some sound settings you can change. Don't forget about the sound volume control on top of the mpu board, it is a little wheel, normally blue, sticks out above the metal mpu enclosure. It may need to be rotated to get the sound to come up. If all that doesn't help you can check the speaker with a meter to make sure it isn't blown or otherwise defective.
Some of the light bulbs could be bad, there may be a lamp test in the TEST/Diagnostics. Or you can swap bulbs around to see if that's why some things don't light up. The digital displays are hopefully ok, the credits display may be another setting in the preferences. The CLEAR may have changed the machine back to immediate payout instead of putting wins to credits. There are quite a few preference settings, you may need to walk thru them or take a look at a setup chart that lists them, I think I saw someone post that sometime back or that info may be in a "sticky note" at the top of this discussion board.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=80.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=80.0)
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"Coins Played" will always show the coins played on the last game. Your machine is behaving normally.
As you pointed out, Winner Paid is showing the correct amount when you have a winning combination.
You need to enable credit play in order for wins to be credited to the credit meter, rather than being paid out immediately from the hopper. Assuming the handwriting on your chip is correct, you can download the PSR for your SP932 chip here (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=2073). You'll want to set the page zero option 5 to 2, player initiated non-credit. That will make the game default to credit mode. The "For Rookies" download (here (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=2336)) will likely come in handy, too, if you're not familiar with navigating the menu system.
As far as the sound, try moving the blue potentiometer (wheel) on the MPU board back and forth a number of times to clear off any possible oxidation, ending up with the dial near the middle of the limits. Now see if you have sound.
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Got the sound working, someone had unplugged the speaker. I believe we also got the credit play working as well, you can push the "cash out" button before you play and this seems to toggle between immediately payout and credit payout. If the button is lite up you get credit on wins, if it's not you get an immediate payout. Not a big deal for me I just make sure that button is on and it does what I want.
Does anyone have any recommendation of a supplier of quarter sized tokens that would work in the machine?
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No credits on the machine. If you push the self test switch until 5-x appears then push the spin reel button once (maybe twice) and it will change to 5-0, close door and then it will always be credits. Won't have to worry about pushing the cash out button. Unless the cash out switch is wired backwards then probably need 5-2.
How many tokens do you need?
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Got the sound working, someone had unplugged the speaker. I believe we also got the credit play working as well, you can push the "cash out" button before you play and this seems to toggle between immediately payout and credit payout. If the button is lite up you get credit on wins, if it's not you get an immediate payout. Not a big deal for me I just make sure that button is on and it does what I want.
Does anyone have any recommendation of a supplier of quarter sized tokens that would work in the machine?
Sounds like you've gotten all major issues fixed, good job. Don't forget that with your "Contributing Member" status you can check out the IGT download area and get any S+ manuals or other documents that might be helpful:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=14 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=14)
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How many tokens do you need?
I was thinking a few hundred.
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PM sent.