New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: jim k-falls on April 27, 2014, 05:48:48 PM
-
Hi, I just got this IGT S + and before I did anything; I read lots and lots on this forum and the archives..i am more familiar with Bally E/M's , but thought I would try my luck on one of these..I almost had it running, but now im wondering what I did to get nothing on the self-test button or J.P. reset switch. Before I ever powered it up, I did the normal cleaning and coin retrieval from places they should never be..i also re-worked the 6 pin molex connector and cleaned all the connectors with crc electra-motive..i got a #12 when I first fired it up, so I changed the battery and got a 61..i remember reading about how you can screw up and get stuck in a loop, so I went back to the forum and read what to do next..i closed the door and got a 3200 before I could turn the J.P. reset key..i pulled the hopper and its fine, no jam or blocking of the optics. put it back in and powered up to see no leds or blinking candle..its like a fuse blew, but I checked them with a meter..any ideas? Thanks in advance , Jim
-
There's a lot of glare in your photo. I cannot see the display. :scratch-head_3:
What numbers are being displayed in the LED boxes with the door closed, and then when the door is opened?
-
Hi, sorry about the photo, im not getting any leds now, I was getting the 12, then after changing the battery ,I got 61 and when I closed the door it switched to 3200..i made a jumper and tested the hopper..its fine..it seems like a power issue..ill try to post some more pics..
-
Seems like your major issue started after the battery change. I'd be for checking the polarity on the new battery and make sure it's a good battery also.
-
With no display I would still be looking at fuses (or fuse holders). I will check some notes when I get home...
-
Thank you for the advice, I checked the battery, and its right as far as polarity and its reading 3.6..i also read and was told that the grounds on these need attention, so I cleaned all those..i have to go back to work for a hour or so, but am anxious to get back on this tonite..can anyone tell me what the open molex plugs are for..i have 2 on the door and 1 in the upper unit..im hoping it was for optional lighting or progressive feature..more pics coming..
-
Heres a pic of the 2 molex plugs on the door.. and ill get a better pic of the machine on the next post..its only letting me load 1 per reply.. im going to pull the game board out and see if I can notice any obvious problems near the power input..i will have the camera ready if you need any more pics of that area..
-
it's good that you did some of those things, but if you suspect a power problem, lets go back to basics. are the reels stiff, is the denom lamp on? if no to these then the connector you cleaned is probably bad. cleaning is only half of the problem. the main reason the connector is intermittent is the pins loose their tensile strength, if you wiggle the plug and the reels get stiff ,then you have to fix that before moving forward.
Hope this helps
Jim
-
I don't know what the denom light is ,but the reels are stiff when the power is on..Just for the heck of it I checked the power at the 6 pin plug and im only getting 7 volts on 1 green wire..i hope im doing this right, but setting my meter on ac volts and using the blue as neutral im not getting any readings except the 1 green wire..i guess its time to check the transformer..
-
the voltages going to that plug are ac voltages. since the reels are stiff, then we could assume the connector is good. the denom lamp is the lamp in the center of the reel glass. it operates on 6,3 vac, if it is not on the bulb could be bad. check the insert coin lamp anf the coin accepted lamp in the denom lamp socket, there is 6.3vac on the lamp as soon as power is applied. put your meter leads on each side of the circuit board contacts, you should read 6.3 vac.
one more voltage to check, on the led display board, the cap to the right of the plug will have 10-12 vdc across it. this is +VB.
Jim
-
I will have to get back to you on the door volts..i took the whole enchilada power tray out to check the transformer and do a complete inspection
-
Ok, heres what I found, im getting 120 volts off the front right side of transformer using white/red as neutral and both blacks..on the left front using blue as neutral im getting nothing out of the purple/blu or blu/blk..on the back left no volts..is the left side possibly dc? all my ratings on the fuses say ac and so does the comparator..24vac..or does that 15 pin molex next to the 120 input have to be connected..seems like you should be able to bench test the transformer without it, but im not sure about this..it looks like it runs the fuses , handle SW., and J.P. reset
-
ok, its getting late but I re-checked everything and the back left side of transformer is dead and I am getting 8.6v on the purple/blk and blue wire... and 7.2 on the blu/blk and blue..ive got a bunch of transformers at my shop, mostly bally but I did see some I didn't recognize..hopefully 1 of them will match up...thanks again for all the help..
-
I put it all back together and I must be checking the transformer wrong, because my denom lamp is reading 6.2v and my led is reading 11v, and my cc is reading 22v..yet when I check the 6 pin molex or the low voltage side of the transformer, I only got 8v on the purple and 7v on 1 of the green..i thought I read a post where blue was neutral,and each green was 12v, but if anyone knows the proper way to test , I will try that ..
-
Jim I think on a IGT machine Green is normally ground, but I won't swear to it.
-
well I think your right because there are plenty of green wires grounded to frame, but I thought I read where, that the green wires on the 6 pin molex were each 12v and thus making 24v for the cc..but I think I read so many post on the problems other members were having, I probably got it wrong..old timers disease.in fact im up way past my bedtime again, damn slots!..i hope some of the east coast experts are reading this while im sleeping, so when im drinking my coffee tomorrow, we will have some ideas on what to do next..thank you
-
Jim I re read some of this, your talking about the 6 pin from the power supply to the mother board. I know those two green are ground. Are you sure the reels are stiff ??
Here is a fix I do to the power cord and it works. If there is a week link in a S+ it's that power cord.
-
When you see a 61 press and hold the test button until a 61-1 appears then close the door and turn the reset key.
That's what I have always had to do to get a game up after a battery change.
If it is a persistent 61 I run a clear chip on the board then start over as it clears any garbage in the EEPROM.
If none of the above works I replace the EEPROM, then clear, and start over.
Your problem doesn't seem to be power related.
-
I wish I could get back to the 61 or any # for that matter..i got zip out of the L E D S, well I will try that soldering of the power cord after work..thanks again
-
Whenever I run into a machine with no displays the first thing I do is remove the 6 pin power plug from the backplane board and clean the pins.
Those KK 156 pins have a tendency to collapse inside the housing.
Remove a pin by pressing a small flat blade screwdriver into the rectangular hole to press the keeper in then pull the pin and wire out.
Clean the pin with a pink eraser until it is shiny, if burned or pitted you will have to replace that pin.
Once cleaned use a small knife blade or razor blade to spread the keeper back out then spread the pin apart so it has a tight fit back into the connector.
The end two pins (to the right) handle the most current.
It is important to clean the posts the connector fits into also.
If any of them are black and pitted the whole 6 pin header needs to be replaced. They are .156 molex headers.
Those end two wires are actually connected together via a PC trace on the back plane board.
I have encountered this trace being burned in half and not making a connection due to a short in the machine.
You can unplug the 6 pin power connector from the backplane board and with power off use a Ohm meter to make sure you have continuity between the two right most pins.
Also, the transformer on the main board does not receive 120 VAC it gets 24 VAC from the main transformer on the floor of the machine and converts that to +5 +Vb and +24 via electronics on the MPU board.
-
Ok, that makes sense..i did take the pins out of the molex holder and clean, and cleaned the post(male pins)..I will check all the trace and see if I can spot the problem..my 6 wire cord doesn't look like the one in the pic buzz has, in fact none of the wires go to that 12 pin molex..ill take a pic of these when I get all the zip ties off
-
my wiring on the 6 pin goes like this..gr #1 towards the back -middle rear trans..gr #2 -8amp fuse blu#3 -middle fr.trans Brn/blu#4- bttm fr trans or/gr#5 - 24 amp fuse or #6 - bttm rear trans.
-
Here is a manual you may not have.
-
Thank you, I checked continuity between the 6 pins and #1 and 2 good and all the others checked out fine acroos the board..so im gong to solder now and get rid of this plug for good..i will post the results in a while..Jim
-
Soldering went well, but no change on the game..do I need to buy a set chip? I don't want to clear it if its not necessary, but im a rookie on these and will do whatever it takes..im keeping this machine so my dad can play it..hes having a hard time with my old e/m handles, .thanks guys
-
Does it have a bill validator?
-
No, just coin
-
Listen! just to put your mind at ease here are the wire colors and their functions.the transformer has a primary winding and a secondary winding,the input goes to the primary, pin1-2-3, 1=common/white/red,2=115vac/black/red, 3=220vac/black/violet. the secondary winding drop's down the voltages, pins 4-5-6, 4=12vac/orange/black,5=0vac/green,6= 12vac/orange. pins 7-8-9, 7=0vac, 8=,7vac/blue, 9=8vac/brown/blue.
these wires go to J8 on the motherboard,they are marked on the board 1 is on the right and 6 is on the left. 1=7/8vac common/green, 2=7/8vaccommon/green, 3=7vac hot/blue, 4= 8vac hot brown/blue, 5= 24vac hot/orange/green, 6= 24vac common/ orange.
the reason I asked you to check three things; 1, if the reels are stiff, the 24vac is getting to the cpu board, it provides voltages that hold the reels in place. 2, the denom lamp is on all the time, as soon as power is applied, that will test the 7vac which powers this lamp. 3, the voltage across the cap C-4 on the LED board, it is +VB which is made from the 8vac.
so now you can see if all three of those tests are good ,your power is probably is good.
hope this helps
Jim
-
Thanks Jim, this helps and im learning by asking sort of dumb questions at times..lol and here goes another one..what does +VB mean, and on the low volt (secondary side) of transformer when you say 0 vac on pins 5 and 7, to me this means neutral..or common..or can I use the white/red for all my output tests?..
the other Jim
-
+Vb is just a term the manuf. gives to a certain voltage in their schematics.
0vac is neutral, return, common, etc. but common only to that voltage that is developed by that set of windings.
you cannot mix the primary common with the secondary commons. in this case, there are two separate secondary output windings, each with their own common or return.
Jim
-
That's what I thought, and now that were on the same page , and I have power and no longer have that 6 pin molex to worry about, what do you suggest I try next? when this all started I had the insert coin light come on briefly and the 25 cent light is always on as is the flourescents..never have seen the cc light come on..and the dip switches are the same way as when the machine came to me..1,2,3,4 on and 5,6,7,8 off..ive read not to clear the machine unless no other options are there..and just so everyone reading this knows, the self test, J.P. reset and LED,s worked briefly also..
-
The CC light doesn't come on with the door open, sorta reverse of a refrigerator light.
Try reseating all socketed chips on the MPU board.
Run a clear chip.
Check for bent pins on the MPU board connector.
-
Jim Just saying, there are two molex plugs on the mother board that will fit in the wrong sockets. If they are switched you will not get a LED display. ( The other Jim in this thread is the one that taught me that )
-
Here is a backplane layout attached.
-
Buzz, I know which one your talking about..it will reach a third place on mine if you stretch it..thank you for that..ive been putting it in the j13 socket..know ill check and see if that's right.
-
Oops, I meant J14 it wont go in the 13..
-
J14 is for back lit reels. do your reels light up?
If not it should be empty.
-
J14 is for back lit reels. do your reels light up?
If not it should be empty.
WHAT !!!!!!!!!! When is the last time you saw backlit reels on a S+ ?????????????
-
According to the back plane schematic it was a option.
-
Mine sure don't, and it was in the wrong socket..i followed the wires up to the meters and put it in J5..it was in J14 and it didn't seem to change anything, but ill bet my meters will work now..lol
-
At this point I would recommend sending the backplane and MPU board to our shop but that is up to you.
-
Badbaud - Can you give us (members) some more info on your shop (I.e. Name, location, website, services offered, etc)??
-
That's always an option, but im kinda wanting to learn more on these..so somebody said to clear it and reset it..anybody else agree or disagree..ill buy the chips and try that if one or more of the experts agrees..I also wanted to let you guys know that when this first happened, I told an e/m buddy about it and he sent me a backplane, cpu, and another CC ..I only have the game and reel chips that came with the machine, but swapping those and the new battery makes no difference..same results..if theres anything else you think I should try, let me know and thank you all again for the help..i was new to the old forum when it changed and must admit I wasn't sure I was going to like the new format..well I do, and its still the best place to share info, learn, and sometimes help someone greener than me.I took this machine in on a trade..someone left my house with a working 809..im ok putting some cash into this one, so my dad can play it..hes getting too weak to pull the handles on my e/m's and it would be cool to load the hopper and credits so all he had to do was push the buttons
-
Jim I hate to give you bad news but using a SP809 you can not add extra credits. The machine will only except the number of coins for the game. Your machine doesn't have a BV, BUT there is a way. Change the SP809 to a SP1137 Montana credits and you can drop in all the coins you want to drop. The first 3 go to game play and the rest will go to credits.
Boy did I ever F*** this post up !! The 809 was a Bally and not a SP chip. But a SP809 is a type 0, 1, 4, 5. Your still going to need a SP1137 to add credits and I think it is the only SP chip that will do that.
A 1137 is a type 0, 1, 4, 5, 12, 14. Your Red white & Blue needs a type 0
PM me your address and I will send you a 1137 along with a clear chip. You don't have a BV so a set chip is not needed.
-
at this point : I would get the board that you were able to get to a 61, and install that board and check the three things I asked you to check. (reels stiff, 6.3vac, 10/12 vdc on the LED board)
Now see if the self test button does anything, do you get any displays?
Jim
-
Buzz, now that was fu.,ing funny..and Jim I did all that last night and reported that I still had no display..reels are tight and I have 6.2 v on the trace that goes to the mini lamps # 86..and I believe I got 11v at the display board..couldn't find the cap you mentioned but I took the display off and checked at the power source..im assuming your talking about a capacitor? I think theres one on my comparitor behind the cover..any way I just got off work and I need to fix some dinner then ill be back to do any thing you ask..1 more dumb question...that little bushing/spacer that lines up the cpu to the backplane..ill just call it the alignment dowel ..how tall should that be? I was thinking of trying to seat the mpu without it..seems like my cpu isn't going all the way down..i have calipers.there was a star washer then the bushing, then a long round head screw..i took the washer out and tried that..
-
Badbaud - Can you give us (members) some more info on your shop (I.e. Name, location, website, services offered, etc)??
Vegas area shop ran by two old pharts trying to spend some time away from their retired wives.
Many of the local, back of the truck, service guys use us to fix their stuff.
Larry spent over 10 years working for Bally and I spent 6 years in the design and development shop working for Fortune Coin which later became Sircoma then IGT. When they all moved to Reno I ran a slot shop in a casino in Laughlin for 10 years.
Larry is good at EM rebuilds while I work on anything electronic.
The shop is two floors stacked with parts and testers for almost every kind of machine.
Don't even need my cane to get around the shop as there is always something close to grab onto.
If we don't have a tester I usually design one.
Larry was smart and over the years collected boxes of boards and parts for many different machines.
He is a A+ hoarder.
We both agree we will keep at it until one of us drops dead.
Larry is there 7 days a week, I work when I don't have a doctors appointment.
His number is 702-363-9998, he doesn't own a cell phone or answer emails on the website his daughter set up years ago.
We work on most of the older machines like Fortune 1, 2 ,S+, S slot, PE, PE+, S2000, bally 5000, 5500, 6000, V5500, 3 card racks, Game Makers, and some Game Kings. Also monitors, coin comparators and bill validators.
We don't buy or sell machines unless we need one or want to get rid of one we have rebuilt.
We have a loyal group of customers that find us via word of mouth. We don't advertise on Craigs list
or papers and don't buy or sell on E-Bay.
We have worked on some boards for some casinos back east and have customers that come to Vegas for a short vacation and drop off their machine for a fix and rebuild.
I am leaving my website up but am slowly changing it over to a info site for slot and video documents.
www.aldor.net (http://www.aldor.net) is where I sold my boards for neon and incandescent signs since 1987.
When I retired I turned off my business license and work under Larrys to do strictly gaming repairs.
Larry is very good at talking customers into how to fix their machine over the phone and he doesn't charge for that service.
-
I rechecked everything and here we go..reels are tight, 6.1v at the 25 cent light..other traces nothing(insert coin and coin accepted)..I touched what appears to be the solder of a capacitor on the back of display and I got 21.2volts..crappy pic, but its the bottom two and it looks like a capacitor to me..
-
I just realized how old I am..i lived in Bullhead and worked in Laughlin when there were only 2 casinos..1976-1978 I use to sneek into the Riverside and The Nevada Club and play the Slots until security recognized me ..it was usually fun for 10-20 mins and a free beer..i think the Crystal Palace was being built when I left..How many casinos does it have now?
-
Jim, where are you at? location.
At this point I'm ready to send you a motherboard and a MPU to see if you can get this thing going.
If it works, just send a donation to NLG
Robert K
-
the spacer you asked about is a guide to make sure the cpu aligns with the two plugs. it's possible that if this is wrong it could keep the cpu from mating up with the motherboard.
Jim
-
I don't know why we haven't ask for him to check the pins from the MPU to the Mother Board. That would keep the board from going all the way down.
-
Badbaud - Can you give us (members) some more info on your shop (I.e. Name, location, website, services offered, etc)??
Vegas area shop ran by two old pharts trying to spend some time away from their retired wives.
Many of the local, back of the truck, service guys use us to fix their stuff.
Larry spent over 10 years working for Bally and I spent 6 years in the design and development shop working for Fortune Coin which later became Sircoma then IGT. When they all moved to Reno I ran a slot shop in a casino in Laughlin for 10 years.
Larry is good at EM rebuilds while I work on anything electronic.
The shop is two floors stacked with parts and testers for almost every kind of machine.
Don't even need my cane to get around the shop as there is always something close to grab onto.
If we don't have a tester I usually design one.
Larry was smart and over the years collected boxes of boards and parts for many different machines.
He is a A+ hoarder.
We both agree we will keep at it until one of us drops dead.
Larry is there 7 days a week, I work when I don't have a doctors appointment.
His number is 702-363-9998, he doesn't own a cell phone or answer emails on the website his daughter set up years ago.
We work on most of the older machines like Fortune 1, 2 ,S+, S slot, PE, PE+, S2000, bally 5000, 5500, 6000, V5500, 3 card racks, Game Makers, and some Game Kings. Also monitors, coin comparators and bill validators.
We don't buy or sell machines unless we need one or want to get rid of one we have rebuilt.
We have a loyal group of customers that find us via word of mouth. We don't advertise on Craigs list
or papers and don't buy or sell on E-Bay.
We have worked on some boards for some casinos back east and have customers that come to Vegas for a short vacation and drop off their machine for a fix and rebuild.
I am leaving my website up but am slowly changing it over to a info site for slot and video documents.
[url=http://www.aldor.net]www.aldor.net[/url] ([url]http://www.aldor.net[/url]) is where I sold my boards for neon and incandescent signs since 1987.
When I retired I turned off my business license and work under Larrys to do strictly gaming repairs.
Larry is very good at talking customers into how to fix their machine over the phone and he doesn't charge for that service.
Wowowowowowowowowow!!! You guys are a hidden GEM!!! Although we don't know HOW to find you, I will hold ON to the Phone number, that's for SURE!!!
Woohoo, I a, So glad I asked!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
-Roslyn/Central Valley Slots
-
Roz Unless they have changed you can throw that phone number away because when you call it they ain't gonna ansewer the phone.
-
Thanks for raining on that parade Buzz...,I can always count on you!!! Dammit, really? They are losing business from here, but whatever....maybe they are busy enough.
-
Roz I just tell it the way I see it. Year or so back they needed a IDOJ sound simm, change that to a IDOJ simm. I must have called them a half dozen times with no ansewer. I think I was going to make two bucks on the sale and spend 3 bucks on blood pressure pills. If I depended on slot sales to eat, I would be a skinny old bastard by now.
-
It wasn't you. The customer said she had sold the machine and the new owner didn't mind the sound it came with.
You aren't the only one that didn't get a call back, someone hijacked our shop line and we could call out but no calls came in.
It took the phone Co. almost 3 weeks to figure out what the problem was.
Larry won't do PayPal or credit card purchases anyways.
-
Call out to buzz..im not sure if I should start a new post on this, but I got your package today and did the clear chip and everything went well, put in the new game chip and we got 62_1..i stopped and will wait to hear from you or one of the other experts..i have to go back to work for an hour and then we can continue the journey..thanks Buzz :hail:
-
Close the door and turn the reset key.
-
I did that and now we got all 8's in the display..i then powered off and on and the reels spun and display went back to 8's and we got spin reels light on
-
I pushed the spin reel button and the hopper started spitting coins..had to push the test button to stop it and then the reels spun and stopped on red white and blue 7's top J.P.
-
I got 4 coins played 0 blinking and changing to 2400 credits and a # 1 in the winner paid
-
put in the new game chip and we got 62_1..i stopped and will wait to hear from you or one of the other experts..
62_1 is a "bad DATA prom" error. It indicates that the data ("SS") chip is bad, or incorrectly inserted. Ensure that all of the legs of the SS chip are inserted correctly into the "REEL PROM" socket on your MPU board.
If the chip is in the correct socket and seated correctly and you still get that error, you have a bad data (SS) chip.
You can see a list of common IGT S+ errors, and the steps to take to resolve those errors, here:
http://newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://newlifegames.net/igterrors/)
-
Kevin I just sent him a SP, SS and a clear chip. I didn't test the chips but I think they were good. The burner verified that it was programed OK. But that's no guarantee is it !!
-
I've swapped MPU's before and got the 62-1 when the program does not match the E-square chip on the motherboard. Turn the JP key and it shows 61-1 and proceed from there.
-
I was thinking mabe I should try the clear chip again and see if it gets me back to 62_1..or what would happen if I put my chips back in after clearing> just a thought..im going out of town for the day and wont be back til tonite but ill be thinking about this all day..thanks guys
-
well, I got home and flipped the switch, reels spun and it stopped on red white and blue 7's again, so I pushed the test button and it went to 60_0 and spin reels lit up..i pushed it and it sang out all kinds of tunes while changing 60_0 to 60_5 5 different tunes ..then it went back to all 8's again..i stopped pushing buttons and after 1 min it clicked and its at 21_ _ in the winner paid. coin in error problem? im going to clear it again unless someone else has an idea.i can get the display to change to 50 or 60__0 or all 8's and I think 1_01..if that helps..
-
The only solution I have at this point is to have you send it to a shop.
Call Larry at 702-363-9998 and arrange to have your computer board and backplane board sent.
I will go through them when they arrive, and test them in our shop machine.
-
I appreciate the offer and may have to take you up on that, but not yet..im stubborn as hell and im going to try and fix this sonofagun..I still have the original board and backplane to put back in and run the clear chip on..If I am in test mode I should be able to advance through it..if I am in book keeping well its got to advance through that too..
-
:yes:Well, I must say this machine had some demons, but its running now and it seems that I had an coin in optic problem. I read some old post that jim from Midwest was explaining how to check ..I got the 10_1 but it wouldn't change with the popsickle stick,,11_1 and 12_1 both changed the 1 to 0..so I took the optics apart and cleaned them, with no results..i had a spare so I cleaned that one and it was the same..10_1 wouldn't change...so I cleaned the 10 blade connections with scotchbrite and put a little twist in them and i'll be damn..shes working and now I want to say thanks to all you guys and gals for the help and advice..that was quite the learning lesson and im a little more knowledgable on I G T S +..but a long way to go..in fact as im writing this my dad has informed me that he pushed the cash out button and to see if it would give him the credits and it spit out a couple of quarters then went to tilt 32..new topic?
-
This topic is locked to prevent confusion since the original issue was resolved.
The new topic with the new hopper payout/"32" in the display issue can be found here:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=1683.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=1683.0)