New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: TheEyeInTheSky on April 18, 2024, 01:27:40 AM
-
So I replaced the old Max Bet bulb button with my new LED button and got it installed fine. I copied the plug-ins for the wiring from the old button. The button works when pressed, but it never lights up. Anybody see what I did wrong? Thanks.
EDIT: Added 2 more photos showing the LED button by itself.
-
The LED is polarized. Rotate it 180 degrees.
-
They came shipped to me like this already though. I'm away from the machine at the moment, but that would be odd if the LED was installed flip flopped.
-
Those are arcade game buttons, not original OEM IGT S2000 slot machine buttons.
-
These are the S2000 buttons from the set available on Amazon and sold by Spin. I can understand them not being OEM, but they're specifically for the S2000.
-
I bought the same buttons from SPIN and i had to switch the bulb direction on all of the buttons. It will work once you take out and rotate the bulb around.
-
Okay, yes the LEDs are polarized, I understand. I ended up flipping the connecting wires around instead of rotating the LED itself. I just switched the 2 cable connections on the sides and they lit up. The light problem is solved.
However, I'm now having a new problem. I've installed everything correctly and the buttons work, but I'm still having my original issue where the machine isn't recognizing every button press. I thought that the buttons were old or icky and so I figured I'd just buy new replacement buttons to solve this problem, but even with the new buttons it's taking numerous clicks to trigger the Service button or the Bet One button. These 2 buttons are the worst, but I'm assuming this issue is equal amongst the other buttons too to an extent.
I've installed new buttons, yet the machine is not recognizing every button click. I have to keep pressing them until I press in the right spot. It's VERY irritating. Please advise.
Akriegs, have you encountered this problem?
-
The buttons from SPIN are very tight. You need to make sure you twist the light into the Button so when you push the button the little white piece will activate the switch on the button. Try this first.
Take the light and the Button and attach before placing into the machine. Push the button to make sure when the white piece comes down it hits the switch. If it does not twist until it locks in place and then the white piece will hit the switch.
-
I did twist the light into the button and it did lock. I could swear they're hitting the switch, but maybe I wasn't seeing it right. I just find it odd that the original buttons the machine came with had this problem... and now the new buttons have the same problem. One thing I know for sure is that the smaller buttons have some wiggle room which allows the player to, with some force, slide the button around and rotate it while it's in the panel. It's not a perfect fit. I'll look again when I get back to the machine and report back to this thread.
-
I'm still having problems here. Any help is appreciated.
I replaced all of the buttons with the Spin buttons... and now I went back to using the original buttons the machine came with. I cleaned the original buttons and got rid of their gunk before reinstalling them. The plunger is clearly making contact every time with the microswitch, so that's not a problem.
The machine is not recognizing every time that I press the buttons. It happens too frequently where the buttons are not registering and it ruins the fun. All of the buttons are horrible and really hit or miss. Again, the Spin buttons did the same thing, and I installed those in hopes they would fix the problem.
It takes tons of presses of the Service button to get it to add free play, so annoying. It takes tons of pressing to Bet One credit, then tons more to press it again. Not as horrible with the Spin Reels or Bet Max buttons, but they're having issues too.
I really need some advice on what to do next because it's too frequent and very irritating. My other S2000's buttons are sensitive and work wonderfully. Never once ever had a problem with any of the buttons. They behave perfectly.
What could be causing the buttons to not be recognized every press by the machine, even though the buttons are clearly making contact with the microswitches?
-
I would try re-seating the button deck I/O card.... with the power switch OFF.
Maybe one of the grounding female pins in the I/O socket on the reverse door panel has become oxidized, and is not getting the greatest contact with the male pins of the card?
If that doesn't help, swap the I/O card from the other cabinet into this one - to see if they work as "sensitive".
If they're not as responsive as you'd like, remove a lamp from a button.
Why?
What I've found out is that if you're using some of these after-market LED lamps, they're just a touch too large in diameter.
The lamps' main body, rubs against the return spring inside the button assembly, causing friction and junky or stuck action/movement.
If you want to continue using slightly oversized LED lamps, you might have to take a piece of sandpaper and sand down the widest part of the plastic bulb smaller just a little bit, so it works more smoothly.
or
Replace the LED bulbs with original incandescent glass lamps.
Since you've been hammering these buttons in attempt to get them to work, it's possible that it's just some sort of a signal problem...that's why I first mentioned possible oxidized contact pins.
Re-plug the door harness at the backplane header Molex as well.
-
A quick question since we are on the topic of the SPIN buttons. I had the same issue with the bulbs being in backwards and needing to turn them around. The problem is that the Spin buttons seem cheap and clunky compared to the originals. Is there anyone out there making quality buttons? It would be nice to get the handle graphic on spin also, which the new buttons don't have.
Thanks,
Newbooty
-
Sounds like the wires are not correct terminals on the microswitches.
-
I would try re-seating the button deck I/O card.... with the power switch OFF.
Maybe one of the grounding female pins in the I/O socket on the reverse door panel has become oxidized, and is not getting the greatest contact with the male pins of the card?
If that doesn't help, swap the I/O card from the other cabinet into this one - to see if they work as "sensitive".
If they're not as responsive as you'd like, remove a lamp from a button.
Why?
What I've found out is that if you're using some of these after-market LED lamps, they're just a touch too large in diameter.
The lamps' main body, rubs against the return spring inside the button assembly, causing friction and junky or stuck action/movement.
If you want to continue using slightly oversized LED lamps, you might have to take a piece of sandpaper and sand down the widest part of the plastic bulb smaller just a little bit, so it works more smoothly.
or
Replace the LED bulbs with original incandescent glass lamps.
Since you've been hammering these buttons in attempt to get them to work, it's possible that it's just some sort of a signal problem...that's why I first mentioned possible oxidized contact pins.
Re-plug the door harness at the backplane header Molex as well.
Okay, I will take a deeper look and play with the I/O card. In the case that I swap I/O cards... and the buttons begin to work perfectly... does that mean the I/O card needs to be replaced?
What exactly do you mean by "re-seat" though?
Also, I could've been clearer here... when I replaced the original buttons with the Spin buttons... I also replaced the microswitches/bulbs with the microswitches/LEDs that the Spin button kit came with. I was not using just Spin buttons with the microswitches/bulbs the machine came with... also because they would not fit together. Now, I've removed the Spin button kit and went back to using the original buttons and microswitches/bulbs.
A quick question since we are on the topic of the SPIN buttons. I had the same issue with the bulbs being in backwards and needing to turn them around. The problem is that the Spin buttons seem cheap and clunky compared to the originals. Is there anyone out there making quality buttons? It would be nice to get the handle graphic on spin also, which the new buttons don't have.
Thanks,
Newbooty
Yah, instead of turning the LEDs around I just flip-flopped the wires going to them. You are right when you say clunky, can't say for sure on cheap though, although they don't necessarily fit snuggly because the smaller buttons wiggle and rotate. Again, you're right, the handle graphic is not on the Spin buttons, so I took the one from the original buttons. HOWEVER... the smaller button graphics from the smaller original buttons are all squished in the smaller Spin buttons. So the graphics from original buttons are not guaranteed to fit properly in the Spin buttons.
Sounds like the wires are not correct terminals on the microswitches.
The buttons work though... just not all the time.
-
Okay, so I spent a whole afternoon focusing on the button issue again.
I swapped I/O cards with the S2000 of mine that works perfectly. The I/O cards were the same P/N too. After I did this, the buttons behaved no differently. At least, there was no noticeable difference to say the least. So I put the I/O cards back in their original machines.
I took off the buttons and just had the lamps and microswitches sticking out through the button panel and using my finger or screwdriver to press the switch directly without using the buttons. Using just the microswitches with their bulbs and using my finger and/or screwdriver did not have any effect either. So even when the microswitches are guaranteed being pressed by me directly, there is still an unresponsiveness to them. It is very irritating.
There are 2 thoughts of mine at this point.
I ordered replacement microswitches for the OEM buttons that came with the machine. The contacts on all of the microswitches look black or burned or something. Could this have any negative effect on the responsiveness?
Or... is it possible that a jurisdictional chip or something is controlling the time spacing between button presses? Or something along these lines? I can't imagine that because sometimes I can press the microswitches really quickly and the machine recognizes 2 back to back clicks. Sometimes they're really responsive, but most of the time they're irritating.
This problem is really bugging me.
-
Hi again. Ordered new microswitches, but I'm still encountering this problem. Here's a link to a video of me playing my machine and focusing on the Bet One Credit button. As you can see, this is a constant issue and I can't figure out how to resolve it. Sometimes, back to back presses work fine, no problem. But so much of the time is this constant pressing until it finally registers.
I need any help I can get on this. I'm just puzzled. Thanks everyone.
http://ec2-52-12-174-105.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/IMG_9574.MOV (http://ec2-52-12-174-105.us-west-2.compute.amazonaws.com/IMG_9574.MOV)
-
Can you post pictures of the wiring of that switch and the others?
-
Sometimes, back to back presses work fine, no problem. But so much of the time is this constant pressing until it finally registers.
Remember you told someone that instead of turning the LED lamp around, you switched the wires?
If I were a betting man, I'd wager you broke a wire inside of the tab covering and it's barely hanging on.
Check all of your yellow/black and Black/Red wires that go onto the switch for a break in continuity.
Get yourself a good digital multimeter to check for continuity.
Your eyes cannot see under the vinyl wire covering.
If you don't have a multimeter, go into the tests for each individual button switch and wiggle the wiring as you perform the test.
If wiggling the wiring makes a button switch act funny, that wire you wiggled probably has a break inside the covering.
Something shorted on your switches before because you said that the contact tabs were all blackened.
That could of hardened the copper strands inside to the point of extreme brittleness, and therefore a possible break or choke in the wire crimped into the Push-On contact tab.
What I mean by "choke" would be by a wire having 4, 8, or 16 strands of twisted copper wire inside ( I don't know how many strands of wire are in there really) and only maybe 1 or 2 strands of wire hanging on to the Push-On tab, while all the others are busted...even hanging on by the vinyl wire covering.
The other two wires (Red and Blue/Black) are for the lamps...we don't care about those, and they wouldn't have any effect on whether the switches are working or not.
Those should all be on your switches, the exact same way...not screwed up. :cool_thumb_up:
One thing that has always bothered me was these micro-switches.
They all have NO & NC tabs for "Normally-Open" and "Normally-Closed".
Why in the world would they put a "Normally-Closed" tab - which we would never use?
Even the IGT drawing of the micro-switches on the buttons isn't clear as to which tab is which. ( see below) :arrowthruhead:
If one Push-On terminal is on the wrong contact tab, that would cause problems with button operation.
Sometimes you might override the logic signal by multiple pushes (back to back presses) of a button....but normally the whole deck would be non-functional.
Your single black or double-black wires should always be on the "Normally-Open" tabs. :yes:
Depressing a momentary deck button would thereby "Close" the circuit.
Click on button deck drawing below to enlarge if needed...>>>