New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT Fortune II => Topic started by: cdlale on May 06, 2017, 05:40:11 PM
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Hello,
I picked up a IGT bar top video poker machine at a yard sale. Is it a Fortune 1 or a II? It has mechanical coin mech and 2 boards in the logic box.
Thanks
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I could be wrong. But, I think that is a Bally bar top game. Can you post a photo or two of the boards?
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I will get some pics of boards tomorrow. The top glass says IGT,But the hopper has a Bally id tag on it.
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Here is some pics of the video and CPU boards.
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I think that's a Fortune II machine.
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Those don't really look like F2 boards to me. Can you post a complete picture of the other board? You will have to remove it.
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Here is some more pics of the MPU board.
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Here is some information from a discussion some time ago. Looks like Sircoma was the predecessor to IGT, and the IGT Fortune I was based on the Sircoma machines. And there is a connection to Bally.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=485.0;wap2 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=485.0;wap2)
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In the early years, when Si Redd quit Bally to run Fortune coin, he made an agreement that Fortune Coin would stop producing their 3 card video reel slot and only produce poker products.
Bally was to get the slot market and Fortune Coin was to keep the video market but stay away from "mechanical slots".
Part of the agreement was that Fortune coin would be given a Bally video system, the two monitor Keno game and the poker game you see here.
Shortly after Fortune Coin started working on the design of the Fortune 1 system we had a contest to re-name the company.
There was a $500 reward for the chosen name.
SI (si) R (redd) CO (company) MA (machine) won the contest.
It was tough times back then and everyone was territorial about their products.
A story I probably shouldn't tell, and MODERATOR PLEASE REMOVE if appropriate, is as follows.
We had blacked out all of the windows in the engineering lab and access was restricted to a few of to work on a new design.
We were working on a electronic slot machine with mechanical reels and optic reel readers.
3 weeks in to the project I entered the lab and the prototype was missing.
I asked around but no one would talk about it.
The lead engineer asked me out after work to have a drink.
He told me a man came into his office and pointed a gun at him, then described where he lived and the names of his family members.
Then clearly said "you will stop work on that slot machine right now" then left the office.
Which is why Si sent our engineer to Australia and he came back with Aristocrat slots.
Apparently, legally, we could not develop a slot machine, but nothing had been dictated about us buying machines from a foreign country
and operating them in the states. Si was a very clever deal maker.
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Very interesting and scary storie.
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Si was very clever. He would work with casinos and offer them a deal that for every Bally slot that was given to him he would place one of his video machines.
And offer them for free for a amount of time calculated to show the casino the power of poker games and allow them enough time to make enough money to pay for the pokers and
absorb the profits from the removed slots.
Sounds like a break even deal but I can relate my visit to our warehouse where there were pallets of removed Bally slots.
Si sold all of them to European buyers. Not one was sold in the states.
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You know BB, you ought to write a book someday...lol
These old stories are awesome! :yes:
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:I_agree_1:
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cdlale - does your machine work? If not, tell us what it does or doesn't do.
Thanks for posting this - you started a very interesting discussion, a historical one!
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Its not working. The monitor shows scrambled /blocks video. The led on the MPU is not lit. It only lights when the reset button is pressed.
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Try clean the boards edge connection with a pink eraser. You might want to try reseating the games eproms. They can loose there connection to the sockets over time. The tin platting tends to tarnish.
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Wow! That's one old circuit board! :cool_thumb_up:
I'd be covering up the bottom of that reset switch's exposed pins for sure with a bit of electrical tape to start. :propeller:
I wish I could help you more on this but it's the 1st time I've ever seen one! :arrowthruhead:
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As old as it is you may need to remove the chips that are in sockets and clean the ic legs if they are tarnished or oxidized. You can use a soft pencil eraser to do that. Take some good photos so you can get the right chip back into the right socket, with the notch on the top of the chip pointed in the right direction. If that doesn't get it to working then you may need to replace those sockets with new ones, those sockets were typically made with tin contacts and not designed to last forever.
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Ok,
I pulled and cleaned the pins on all the socked ics. Still the same result.
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Just for the hell of it, switch the $1 - 25cents switch back and forth a few times. Try it in both positions.
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Just for the hell of it, switch the $1 - 25cents switch back and forth a few times. Try it in both positions.
I just tried that,Still no good.
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What about power supply voltages, have you checked them? Also check fuses and fuse caps, the caps get tarnished or the fuseholder spring can get broken and stop making a good connection.
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If you have any plugs attached to the mother board or back plane where your MPU plugs into, you might want to check those plugs or cables connections. You have a video signal, but it's just scrambled. It is very possible your problem could be with the monitors chassis or connections. You need to clean and inspect every connection in your game.
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Assuming the game chips are good I would try to replace the 4 video RAM chips, 22 pin, (5101?) to the right of the EPROMS.
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Is there a schematic of the power supply so I can check voltages coming off it? I am going to change out the 4 video ics (S5101L1PC ) on the MPU. Those are hard to find. Digikey and Mouser did not show any. I found some generic ones on Ebay. I did not order any yet.
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I thought I had a power supply schematic but I don't. There are sometimes labels by the fuseholders that say what voltage each fuse is for, those would be the primary voltages for the machine. The labels are often done so people will install the correct fuse if it needs replaced.
Also, when you replace the video ram chips you might want to consider soldering in a socket for each chip, would make servicing easier later on if ever needed. The 5101 static ram chips are an old design and I don't think there is a direct replacement for them so you have to scrounge to find them sometimes. Those type of chips are more sensitive to static damage than modern chips so be extra careful about handling them.
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They are in sockets. We still have around 200 5101 chips. We use them in the E1000 RAM boards. I could test 10 in a 1000 RAM board and make sure they work then send them.
PM me.
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Ok,
I replaced the 4 ics on the CPU board and the game seems to play. The video has some artifacts and off color and there is no sound. I know the monitor needs to be recapped.
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The off color issue almost looks like a CAP PROM is going bad.
Does it have a CAP PROM?
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I dont see one on the video board. But there are 2 ics that may have had stick on labels at some point but the labels are gone. there are 6 eproms that are 2 for blue 2 green 2 for red. The 2 ics missing labels are not Uv erasable eproms.
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See where the address lines of the color EPROM's go to. Pins 1 through 8. Follow the traces, there has to be some common chip that controls their address.